Sparging on the Grainfather

[MeanLowerLow]

So I wanted to start a separate thread from the "Grainfather!!" to specifically discuss sparging.

How is everyone doing it?

I have been using a kettle, heating it on my stove then transferring to a pitcher to pour slowly over the grainbasket. But this is a pain. Plus, I'd like to automate this more.

So now my ideas are to either:

A) Get a small kettle with a ball valve and thermometer (similar to the new anvil kettle, but brand isn't the point here), then elevate the kettle and set the valve to sparge - of course I would need to set the kettle on something that could withstand the heat. Price around $130-150 for decent quality kettle with valve and thermometer, but then I have to monitor the temperature myself (which hasn't been too difficult so far). I suppose I could also get an electric induction countertop burner for around $60 that would prevent me having to move 4 gallons of hot water.

B) Get a GF electric sparge water heater, hook up a ball valve to it, and use that for in the same way as above, Price around $200 for the heater and the ball valve - but can control and maintain the temp on its own.

My buddy at the LHBS suggested a Blichman auto-sparge, but I don't think that would work for a number of reasons, not the least of which is the GF basket is not 12", and also 1-2" of wort on top of the basket is way more than the recommended 10mm, and would likely go down the overflow.

What are your thoughts? How are you sparging on your Grainfather?

 

[tjosborne]

I have the GF sparge heater, a ball valve would be nice. I've just been pouring a half gallon at a time

 

[billmiller007]

I just did my first batch last week when I received the unit. I did stove top and pitcher method but am looking at getting the sparge water heater but they are out of stock. I went on Amazon to check out coffee heater and found one that I might hook up a temp controller to and ball valve. I hit my efficacy spot on but it seems to be a little elementary to pour over a pitcher at a time. I would really like to extend the arm of the unit to pour in water and recirculate when the basket it lifted! Just an idea

 

[broadbill]

Aren't these types of units for no-sparge?

 

[kh54s10]

I don't have a GF, (it is on my wish list) but the easiest seems to be to get a pot with a ball valve, set it on a stove with the GF below. Use gravity to sparge. Or if it needs to be higher, make a stand for a hot plate or induction burner.

Since you are only heating water and 5 gallons should be enough a cheap stock pot would work. I got one at a local discount chain for $19. Add a ball valve and a piece of tubing and it could be done for less than $75.

 

[AkBrew907]

I have my GF on the floor and an Anvil BK that is higher than the top of the grain basket when lifted. The Anvil BK sits on an induction heater. I put all my water into the Anvil BK, add all my water additions and then gravity drain it into the kettle for the initial mash leaving just behind what I need for my sparge. I crank the induction heater to max and by the time my mash is over I have reached my sparge temp and I lower the settings on the induction top to hold my sparge temp and then just slowly control the sparge flow with the ball valve.


So far it's working great

 

[TexasWine]

Aren't these types of units for no-sparge?

They can be, but my understanding is that you can't make a no sparge 5 gallon batch. Most folks sparge.

 

[broadbill]

They can be, but my understanding is that you can't make a no sparge 5 gallon batch. Most folks sparge.

Interesting. I would have thought batch size would have been limited by how much volume they could boil on 120V...

 

[TexasWine]

Interesting. I would have thought batch size would have been limited by how much volume they could boil on 120V...

From what I've read, folks routinely boil 7 gallons in them. Just takes it a while to get there.

Personally, I boil 7 gallons with about 1800 watts total. I've also boiled 13 gallons with about 2500 watts with one 1500 watt element at 100% and the other set to 70%. Boiled off about 3 quarts in an hour's time.

 

[jschein]

Interesting. I would have thought batch size would have been limited by how much volume they could boil on 120V...

Nope I forgot to take my spare water out last brew ended up full volume mash. Came out great

 

[billmiller007]

Tried to do a triple bel this week but got a stuck sparge. Sucked. First one. Not happy but at the end, I think I learned a lot. Any troubles with this?

 

[RockyMountainCraftBrewing]

They can be, but my understanding is that you can't make a no sparge 5 gallon batch. Most folks sparge.

I simply up the mash water and the grain bill and I dont bother sparging.I am not worried about efficiency as I am not Annheiser Busch or Coors etc.

I buy my malt in multiple bags at a time at a cost of less than .50 cents a pound for ESB/Pale Ale/Munich/Vienna.If I use 16 pounds of malt and mash with 7 gallons of water and I end up with 6 gallons of wort to boil and end up with 5 it is all good with no worry about extracting tannins at all.

Typical cost for me to make a batch of beer is $12 including malt/hops/additives/yeast as I buy everything in bulk.

My view is that the Grainfather is a constant recirculation mash system so it doesn not need a sparge if you over do it on the grain bill.

Never had a bad beer yet nor one that was under volume.

RMCB

 

[WarmGas]

I have my GF on the floor and an Anvil BK that is higher than the top of the grain basket when lifted. The Anvil BK sits on an induction heater. I put all my water into the Anvil BK, add all my water additions and then gravity drain it into the kettle for the initial mash leaving just behind what I need for my sparge. I crank the induction heater to max and by the time my mash is over I have reached my sparge temp and I lower the settings on the induction top to hold my sparge temp and then just slowly control the sparge flow with the ball valve.


So far it's working great

The overflow inlet (part number 36) that fits onto the top of the overflow pipe in your photo is upside down. Just a friendly FYI.

 

[WarmGas]

I have the GF sparge heater, a ball valve would be nice. I've just been pouring a half gallon at a time

This is my method of sparging and on average takes 20 mins or so. I usually hit the Boil switch as soon as I lift the grain bucket up so we can work to the boil faster and I let the grain to continue dripping after I use all the sparge water until just before the boil. Might as well get every last drop of goodness.

 

[AkBrew907]

The overflow inlet (part number 36) that fits onto the top of the overflow pipe in your photo is upside down. Just a friendly FYI.

lol thanks. Wasn't actually brewing here just cleaned everything and moved it to it's new place and testing out the new induction cook top.

 

[WarmGas]

AKbrew907, judging from your name you are clearly up in Alaska. Which part? I have friends in Homer, Cordova, Kodiak, etc. How do you manage fermentation temps?

 

[AkBrew907]

AKbrew907, judging from your name you are clearly up in Alaska. Which part? I have friends in Homer, Cordova, Kodiak, etc. How do you manage fermentation temps?

About an hour north of Anchorage.


I have a stand up freezer that I currently use for fermenting and temp control and another fridge freezer that I have my keg in right now. In the process of building a custom fermentation chamber though that will also dub as my brewing station.

 

[WarmGas]

Wow. Very cool. I see you made a baby too. Busy times up north!

 

[MeanLowerLow]

So I settled in modifying an electric Grainfather sparge heater. I added a ball valve to control the flow and a thermometer to dial in the temp. I am happy I used the thermometer and the switch on the sparge heater thermostat has about 5° of "float" so it is difficult to dial in without the thermometer.

If I were going to do it again, I would have used a smaller valve. It's all my LHBS had and while I am able to dial it in, I feel I would have had more control and an easier time controlling the flow with a smaller valve.

All in all I am happy with the automation. It does still require monitoring and adjustment of the valve a few times but still way easier than the pitcher method!

I should also add that I measured and the sight glass is spot on the heater as packaged. However despite my best intentions, my valve is .25L short. It's easy enough though, I just ad 1/4L to my desired sparge volume when reading from the sight glass.

View attachment trim.C42A68C9-1D03-4B62-B79A-0802355A1146.MOV

 

[TexasWine]

If I were going to do it again, I would have used a smaller valve. It's all my LHBS had and while I am able to dial it in, I feel I would have had more control and an easier time controlling the flow with a smaller valve.

Smaller valve might help, but really the type of valve you're using (ball valve) is not the best for controlling flow. If you decide to change it out one day, look for a globe valve or even a needle valve.

Ball valves are best suited on/off applications. But it just so happens that's the only kind of valve many LHBSs, and online retailers that cater to the home brew industry, carry. So we make do with what we have essay access to.

 

[MeanLowerLow]

Interesting... Could I get a globe or needle valve that would thread onto the weldless fitting used by the ball valve? Do you happen to have a link?

That's a great piece of info... I wish I had known it a bit sooner!

 

[TexasWine]

Interesting... Could I get a globe or needle valve that would thread onto the weldless fitting used by the ball valve? Do you happen to have a link?

That's a great piece of info... I wish I had known it a bit sooner!

Something like this should work. LINK

 

[Johntodd]

Can I ask a total-newb question? I'm asking in this thread because my question is about sparging on the Grainfather. I want one of these and that's the only way I'll ever do all-grain brewing, and the sparge is my one last thing to worry about.

When sparging, why can't you just hook up the pump and hose on the Grainfather to recirculate the wort back over the grains? Set the temp control for whatever temp, and then start the motor. Sparge for X minutes, as dictated by the recipe.

Thanks!
-Johntodd

 

[TheHopfather]

When sparging, why can't you just hook up the pump and hose on the Grainfather to recirculate the wort back over the grains? Set the temp control for whatever temp, and then start the motor. Sparge for X minutes, as dictated by the recipe.

The sparge step is simply rinsing the grains of any remaining sugars. You want to use fresh water because it does a better job of that than recirculating wort will. The wort already has sugar in it and may be saturated, or close to it. Fresh water doesn't have any sugar so in theory you should do a better job of rinsing.

What you could do is a full volume mash, like BIAB, and just recirculate during the mash like normal, pull the grains and start the boil skipping the sparge step completely. Your efficiency will likely suffer a bit but if you don't mind spending a couple extra bucks in grain it should work.

 

[Johntodd]

The main reason I want the Grainfather is because of it's temperature control. I want to get away from heating water on the stove with a thermometer; it's a pain.

Could I just sparge with my 120* tap water?

 

[thedon986]

If I use 16 pounds of malt and mash with 7 gallons of water and I end up with 6 gallons of wort to boil and end up with 5 it is all good with no worry about extracting tannins at all.
RMCB

How is it possible for 16lbs of grain to only absorb 1 gallon of water when mashed? Doesn't absorption run about 1-1.25 qt/lb???

 

[damdiver]

I use the Grainfather Sparge heater and pour a quart at a time.(the company with the bear logo had them in stock).

Part of the reason I got the grainfather was because I was tired of lifting water up 5' high, running hose, playing with pumps, lighting burners etc.

A Grainfather brew day is nice and simple. Sipping a beer and sparging for 20 minutes is far from a hardship to me!! I've hit my target OG or better with every batch I've done.

Just one brewers opinion!

 

[WI_Wino]

How is it possible for 16lbs of grain to only absorb 1 gallon of water when mashed? Doesn't absorption run about 1-1.25 qt/lb???

No. The 1 - 1.25 qt / lb ratio is for traditional mash. My biab system has about .08 gallons per pound of water absorption.

 

[thedon986]

No. The 1 - 1.25 qt / lb ratio is for traditional mash. My biab system has about .08 gallons per pound of water absorption.

RMCB was referencing his absorption rate on the grain father which is more of a traditional mash not BIAB. My last brew on the grainfather was 10lb grain bill and I mashed with 5g and sparged with 4g and ended with 6g after chilling. So his claim of 1g absorption for 16lbs of grains seems totally off.

 

[Brewmasher]

I do a hybrid sparge with the Grainfather. After mashout, position the pump arm to drain to a kettle. Make sure you turn the heating elements off so you don't pop the scorch breaker. Personally, I put the kettle on the stove to hasten the boiling process, but I suppose you don't have to. Then remove the top strainer and stir in as much of your calculated sparge water that will fit. You can turn the heat back on after you added a couple of gallons. Return the pump arm and recirculate until you reach 170 F. Pull up the grain basket and set your temp to boil. Pour your remaining sparge water as you would your typical fly sparge.

Water temp at this point has a negligible effect because
a) The grains have already gotten a good rinse
b) The grains are already hot enough to keep the viscosity low.

I use hot water out of the tap. Some people scoff at this citing a greater risk of leached metals from the plumbing. I grew up during the 60's and 70's so I ain't afraid.