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Sparging method for BIAB !

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Haha I hear that. My volume is my biggest problem, but I think I got it figured out, gonna try my first AG BIAB in a week or two. But Yeah the guy who just bought his first hydrometer gave me some hope on not worrying too much about the nitty gritty.
Yeah man, the closer you can get to starting volume, boil off and ending volume, the tighter your numbers will get. Might take a few brews to dial in, but once you get it accurate, everything falls into place. AG BIAB will change your game. Just be sure to mash with the largest volume you can, as that will increase your efficiency. For a 5.5 gallon batch, I start with 8 gallons. I get about a gallon lost to the mash, then boil off around 1.5 gallons, so it put me at about 6 gallons into the fermenter. Then I lose quite a bit to sediment and dry hopping. 5-5.5 gallons goes into my keg.
 
Yeah man, the closer you can get to starting volume, boil off and ending volume, the tighter your numbers will get. Might take a few brews to dial in, but once you get it accurate, everything falls into place. AG BIAB will change your game. Just be sure to mash with the largest volume you can, as that will increase your efficiency. For a 5.5 gallon batch, I start with 8 gallons. I get about a gallon lost to the mash, then boil off around 1.5 gallons, so it put me at about 6 gallons into the fermenter. Then I lose quite a bit to sediment and dry hopping. 5-5.5 gallons goes into my keg.
That's about right. I've been starting my boil at around 7-7.5 gallons and I get just shy of a full 5 gal. keg at the other side.
 
You can use cool water for the sparge. Also, if you own the mill you can mill the grains finer to get a higher efficiency. I have come to expect 85% or more with my BIAB brews.
Just curious, what grain/water ratio are you using for you BIAB? Also, are you recirculating the wort during the mash?
 
Just curious, what grain/water ratio are you using for you BIAB? Also, are you recirculating the wort during the mash?

I don't know what grain/water ratio, I just put in the amount of water that I think will allow me to add the grain without running the pot over, then sparge to get my volume after I remove the grains. No re-circulation, non needed. In my opinion re-circulation is a step backward when using BIAB as the grain needs to be milled coarser or the fine particles will clog up the bag which then slows the gelatinization of the starches and leads to poorer efficiency.
 
Yeah man, the closer you can get to starting volume, boil off and ending volume, the tighter your numbers will get.

Amen. Same for me. Once you get the volumes right you're well on the way. Then I'd say milling consistency is the next careful watch with things like high wheat % grists throwing things (smaller kernal). But volumes were the first big thing.

I don't know what grain/water ratio, I just put in the amount of water that I think will allow me to add the grain without running the pot over, then sparge to get my volume after I remove the grains.

+1. For me, it's whatever total water I need = strike volume.
 
I don't know what grain/water ratio, I just put in the amount of water that I think will allow me to add the grain without running the pot over, then sparge to get my volume after I remove the grains. No re-circulation, non needed. In my opinion re-circulation is a step backward when using BIAB as the grain needs to be milled coarser or the fine particles will clog up the bag which then slows the gelatinization of the starches and leads to poorer efficiency.
How do you maintain your mash temperature?
 
I don't do anything to maintain the mash temperature. With the fine milling that I do the conversion is over before the temperature drops. How long is your mash period? That is, how long does it take to get full conversion with your setup?
 
I don't do anything to maintain the mash temperature. With the fine milling that I do the conversion is over before the temperature drops. How long is your mash period? That is, how long does it take to get full conversion with your setup?
I've been doing the same. I've mashed both 60 and 90 minutes, temp drop usually occurs around 45 minutes. I've never tested when I get full conversion. Most brew days the extra 30 minutes is just more time to myself, so I don't mind. I'll have to go back through my records and see if there is a noticeable difference between the 60 and 90 minute mashes based on my pre-boil gravity measurements. I'm brewing in a week or two, I'll get some iodine and find out! Regardless of all this, I'm going to get one of those 240v single vessel systems out there, just trying to decide which bells and whistles to include on the system.
 
Brewing today and measured conversion at 20 minutes for a 148 degree mash. Looks like full conversion. I also found out that my LHBS will adjust the mill a little tighter if requested, so I had this grist milled finer. A friend gave me a bag of pomegranates, so I guess this will be a pomegranate saison.
 
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