So you want to use a commercial keg for fermenting huh?

[Ztup]

Is that a gas-in on the back side of your T that goes to the Spunding Valve for racking?

 

[Jcruse]

Is that a gas-in on the back side of your T that goes to the Spunding Valve for racking?

Yes, there's a gas-in on the back. The valve is an adjustable prv/spunding valve, so you can set it to 5 psi during primary fermentation, then crank it up to 20-30 during secondary. Then when ready to rack, you can pressure transfer at serving pressure so you don't get a foamy transfer (co2 coming out of solution as pressure drops).

What I haven't figured out is how to dry hop...do people open the vessel prior to fermentation completion to dry hop, or dry hop in a keg/secondary vessel?

 

[JONNYROTTEN]

There are many Sanke keg spear types out there. Here is a video of how to relieve the pressure and remove the screw in spear type.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gDqJ_0fMxq4

There are others that use a spring clip and you just need to start with the pressure removal first then remove the little spring then the spear just comes out and your done. Rinse and then clean as shown.

As for a spunding valve. I don't see the need at this stage of the game. Right now we are working on Cleaning, rinsing, sanatizinng, fermenting AND transferring into and out of the keg. I am using a 000 solid stopper (included) IN the racking cane and then attacking a blow off to the TEE out feed side at the ball valve. A barbed fitting can be used or using the Cam Lock and a piece of tubing into a blow off bucket is what I am using.

I will have several other videos to post. I am going on vacation for the next few days and when I return I will be transferring my Tart Cherry Beer from primary to a keg using the kit and I will absolutely video that for you guys.

As far as Dry hopping in a keg with this kit. You wont be under pressure at this point just under C02 blanket as all the air will have been removed during fermentation. So removal of the kit is as easy as removing the clamp and tossing in hops just like you do yeast. May I suggest ONLY pellet hops. Then you can use the racking cane to transfer out of the keg into your finishing kegs for carbonating and serving.

Let me know if I covered all the questions. Good stuff by the way! Thanks for the interest and the questions.

Cheers
Jay

Nothin for nothin but I wouldn't be jamming a screwdriver in the ball with the possibility of damaging the seal.I use an open end box wrench,19mm just because I had it on hand.Stick one side of the open end wrench under the tab for leverage and push down on the ball with the backside of the wrench.I think if you try it youll agree its a better way

 

[Jaybird]

Nothin for nothin but I wouldn't be jamming a screwdriver in the ball with the possibility of damaging the seal.I use an open end box wrench,19mm just because I had it on hand.Stick one side of the open end wrench under the tab for leverage and push down on the ball with the backside of the wrench.I think if you try it youll agree its a better way

Ohh absolutely agree! I guess I should say I have ZERO intentions of saving that spear. I pull em and toss em. I guess I should save them now that I am doing it all in a keg. Thanks for the input...

Cheers
Jay

 

[stonebrewer]

Yes, there's a gas-in on the back. The valve is an adjustable prv/spunding valve, so you can set it to 5 psi during primary fermentation, then crank it up to 20-30 during secondary. Then when ready to rack, you can pressure transfer at serving pressure so you don't get a foamy transfer (co2 coming out of solution as pressure drops).

What I haven't figured out is how to dry hop...do people open the vessel prior to fermentation completion to dry hop, or dry hop in a keg/secondary vessel?

Where did you get your spunding valve from and is it marked for PSI or do you have to use a pressure gauge like I do?

I do both for dry hopping. I dry hop day 3-4 of primary, so I release pressure, open the keg and toss hops in quickly, seal it back, purge any O2 that might have made it in. I also put hops in a SS canister into my serving kegs, flush with CO2, then push beer in via pressure. I would really like to never open the keg, but not sure there is an easy, inexpensive way to do that. Can imagine some sort of device that opens on a timer, but not sure that is feasible...not sure this is even warranted though, because the yeast will likely scavenge any stray O2 this early into primary...

 

[Jaybird]

Also too I think there is a small amount of O2 trapped in the hops you are tossing in there as well. At least I would think so anyway.

So I brewed a Kolsch on Saturday 12 gallons. Used the kit to transfer my Tart Cherry to kegs. I am LOVE LOVE LOVE LOVING this set up! There is a fair amount of hardware I use to make my life easy but all in all I am very happy with this.

I also tested this with pressure with a compression fitting on the racking cane and was able to pressurize to about 25#. I was using the Regulator on my tank and to be honest is about 15 years old and been beat to hell so I am not sure how exactly accurate it is but there was no leaks and seemed to hold very well overnight so I am happy with the results for sure.

Cheers
Jay

 

[Jcruse]

Where did you get your spunding valve from and is it marked for PSI or do you have to use a pressure gauge like I do?

I do both for dry hopping. I dry hop day 3-4 of primary, so I release pressure, open the keg and toss hops in quickly, seal it back, purge any O2 that might have made it in. I also put hops in a SS canister into my serving kegs, flush with CO2, then push beer in via pressure. I would really like to never open the keg, but not sure there is an easy, inexpensive way to do that. Can imagine some sort of device that opens on a timer, but not sure that is feasible...not sure this is even warranted though, because the yeast will likely scavenge any stray O2 this early into primary...

The adjustable PRV is from amazon: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007GDY3CU/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

It's not that accurate, though, and that's why I have a pressure gauge on the contraption as well. I might just dry hop in in my serving kegs...what's the longest you've had hops in contact with beer, and did you ever get any off flavors? (altough I tend to drink hoppy beers faster, so not sure it would be an issue)

 

[stonebrewer]

I have left hops in the keg for months with no issues. I would avoid cones and stick with pellets, as the one time I had "grassy" flavors was when I used cones. I also tend to drink my IPAs as quickly as possible. I like to have hops in during primary because of studies on biotransformation of hops by yeast which a lot of pro brewers are taking advantage of to make their awesome beers more awesome...Mitch Steele, JC Tetreault, etc. do it...why not?

 

[cheesecake]

This post makes my bank account hurt. Saving my pennies so I can order a couple of these. I have one setup from another company but this setup is the cats meow

 

[stonebrewer]

Also too I think there is a small amount of O2 trapped in the hops you are tossing in there as well. At least I would think so anyway.

Absolutely! That is why I pitch them in on day 3, as the yeast are still scavenging for oxygen and will take care of that for you so the beer does not stale. In the serving keg, I put the hops in a SS mesh canister and then flush the keg with CO2 several times to eliminate most of the O2.

Gonna bring this thread to the attention of a few friends who ferment in Sankes this weekend...hopefully that will drum up a sale or two. Cheers!

 

[Jaybird]

MAN every time I use this I am even more excited then the last! Honestly for me if I am going to dry hop, I am going to transfer into another Sanke keg and use my kit for the transfer, I have done this now 2x's just playing around and if you go from Dip Tube to Dip tube and use 2 kits the transfer is seamless and always under Co2..... Super cool!!! The really cool thing is you don't have to buy an entire kit to do it. I separated all the parts on my website so you can just pick and choose what you need.

Cheers
Jay

 

[Jaybird]

@Brickman

Hopefully this will be on the site tonight.... Its the original kit that I am using and the 16" thermowell welded in to the cap as well.


Cheers
Jay

 

[Jaybird]

http://www.norcalbrewingsolutions.com/store/Ultimate-Sanke-Keg-Fermenter-Kit.html

Its up and we are already taking orders for the Ultimate thermowell version!

This is awesome!

Cheers
Jay

 

[Jaybird]

Yep I sure do.

http://www.norcalbrewingsolutions.com/store/Ultimate-Sanke-Keg-Fermenter-Kit.html



Cheers
Jay

We had to change the URL because of some changes we made to the product and added new improved ones as well.

Here is the new link

http://www.norcalbrewingsolutions.com/store/Ultimate-Sanke-Keg-Tee-Fermenter-Kit.html

Cheers
Jay

 

[Jaybird]

We also added it as a "cross" and added all the parts so you can attach your Ball Lock gas in directly to it and use CO2 to transfer, clear the keg, carbonate, or really whatever you want to use it for.

http://www.norcalbrewingsolutions.com/store/Ultimate-Sanke-Keg-Cross-Fermenter-Kit.html


Cheers
Jay

 

[Jaybird]

[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3WoH8OTM5QU&feature=youtu.be[/ame]

Made another video of the updated version with the cross and the ball lock gas in port.

This shows how to get it put together and how the racking can get associated with the spray head.

Man I am loving this thing!

Cheers
Jay

 

[tjosborne]

Would there be clearance for this in a kegerator if one used that to ferment in?

 

[Jaybird]

Would there be clearance for this in a kegerator if one used that to ferment in?

Top of the racking cane is 6.5" above the keg connection. Not sure how much room you have in your fridge.

Cheers
Jay

 

[tjosborne]

@Jaybird
I don't have a fridge or anything yet that would fit this. What are you using for temp control with a sanke?

 

[Jaybird]

@Jaybird
I don't have a fridge or anything yet that would fit this. What are you using for temp control with a sanke?

Right now I am using a freezer and and this little guy...

http://www.norcalbrewingsolutions.com/store/Temp-Controller-120-Volt-Uni-Stat-IIa.html

Cheers
Jay

 

[Derp]

Top of the racking cane is 6.5" above the keg connection. Not sure how much room you have in your fridge.

Could you measure the total height when installed in a Sanke keg with the racking tube as low as possible? I think it might fit in my chest freezer, but it'll be a close fit.

I'm currently using a 60L Speidel fermenter, but there's no good way to do pressurized transfers (small leaks around the lid) so I've been hoisting it out of the chest freezer with a pulley system to do gravity transfers into a corny and one of these days it's bound to end in a disaster. It would be nice to ferment in a Sanke in the chest freezer and then push the beer into cornies with CO2.

 

[Jaybird]

Could you measure the total height when installed in a Sanke keg with the racking tube as low as possible? I think it might fit in my chest freezer, but it'll be a close fit.

I'm currently using a 60L Speidel fermenter, but there's no good way to do pressurized transfers (small leaks around the lid) so I've been hoisting it out of the chest freezer with a pulley system to do gravity transfers into a corny and one of these days it's bound to end in a disaster. It would be nice to ferment in a Sanke in the chest freezer and then push the beer into cornies with CO2.

Sure, but not all 15.5 gallon half barrel kegs are the same height. I will grab a normal american half barrel today and set up up and get you a measurement. Give me a few hours.

Cheers
Jay

 

[FoCobrewguy]

Hey Jay,

so what would you say the advantage is in the kit with the cross over the T. The extra fitting with the CO2 hook up just makes transfers under pressure easier? It doesn't affect the cleaning process you show in the video? Just curious since the video uses the T. Do you hook up your blow off tube to the opposite side of the CO2 hook up? Definitely would like to move my cleaning process outside and make life easier doing transfers to my corny after fermentation.

 

[Jaybird]

Hey Jay,

so what would you say the advantage is in the kit with the cross over the T. The extra fitting with the CO2 hook up just makes transfers under pressure easier? It doesn't affect the cleaning process you show in the video? Just curious since the video uses the T. Do you hook up your blow off tube to the opposite side of the CO2 hook up? Definitely would like to move my cleaning process outside and make life easier doing transfers to my corny after fermentation.

Yes for sure. I have found that being able to simply shut the ball valve for the blow off/cleaning and add C02 with my already set up gas ball lock just makes the transfer under zero oxygen AND makes it a snap. All you do is add gas and open up racking can valve and your flowing either into your corny or sanke for carbonating and serving.

Cheers
Jay

 

[mredge73]

I currently pressure ferment with corny kegs.
In order to keep all my equipment the same and use one of these to bump the volume to 10+ gallons I would need a ball lock liquid post on the racking cane.
Is this something that you can offer as an option? I am thinking that it can be used with a compression fitting or even wielded on.

 

[Jaybird]

I currently pressure ferment with corny kegs.
In order to keep all my equipment the same and use one of these to bump the volume to 10+ gallons I would need a ball lock liquid post on the racking cane.
Is this something that you can offer as an option? I am thinking that it can be used with a compression fitting or even wielded on.

I will have a picture of one set up that way by the end of the day today...

Cheers
Jay

 

[Jaybird]

I currently pressure ferment with corny kegs.
In order to keep all my equipment the same and use one of these to bump the volume to 10+ gallons I would need a ball lock liquid post on the racking cane.
Is this something that you can offer as an option? I am thinking that it can be used with a compression fitting or even wielded on.

How is that for GETTING ON IT! LOL

I will have pricing on this in a bit for an OPTION on the entire part.

Cheers
Jay

 

[mredge73]

That was quick, added to my Christmas list!
In this configuration the bend isn't required, could you offer it straight as well?

I have a somewhat unrelated question too about your cleaning solution.
Do you ferment in a sanke? If so does the cleaning spray wand tool thingy get the top flange cleaned pretty good?
I always have trouble getting the top cleaned due to fermentation, the stuff that sticks to the top doesn't come off easy.
Usually requires overnight soaks upside down.

 

[Jaybird]

That was quick, added to my Christmas list!
In this configuration the bend isn't required, could you offer it straight as well?

I have a somewhat unrelated question too about your cleaning solution.
Do you ferment in a sanke? If so does the cleaning spray wand tool thingy get the top flange cleaned pretty good?
I always have trouble getting the top cleaned due to fermentation, the stuff that sticks to the top doesn't come off easy.
Usually requires overnight soaks upside down.

I am sure we can get you one made that is straight. I am going to add the part as a bent solution just so its an added part to the racking cane but when your ready I'll make you a straight one.

Yes I ferment in a keg. Yes the 3" spray nipple gets the top really well. What I do is this.
add my CIP PBW solution to the keg HOT CIP is important as its a little stronger than the soak n clean. Then I hook up my pump, now I add a little Co2 and push some liquid through pump and turn it on. Then hook it up back thorough the ball valve and let her rip. It just sits there and circulates through the spray head. I do this honestly for about 1/2 hour or so. then start my rinse cycles etc. Every time I open up my kegs they are clean. I sometimes lazy out and just fill em with PBW from the brewery once I drain it, but most of the time its CIP because I want to clean EVERYTHING. I have found that the outside of my racking cane doesn't get hit where the krausen line was. But I just wipe that off quick like and I am done.

Cheers
Jay

 

[Jaybird]

So the more I think about this the more I think you are right it doesn't need to be bent. This will be its own part totally addable as an option. I really like that idea and let it stand on its own. I will have a price in the system tomorrow but I think it will come in around $30.

Cheers
Jay