so I under pitched...

[demetman]

Hello guys, I have a concern with my freshly brewed NB smoke bomb porter kit. I brewed this last night. Target O.G. 1.066. I came in at 1.070. I changed the procedure slightly, from the kit directions. After steeping my specialty grains(1.5qrts per#) at 170 for 30 min, I rinsed the grains with 1 gal of water at 170F into my kettle. I wanted to do a full volume boil to increase hop utilization and add the LME at 45 minutes into the boil to reduce caramelization of sugars. After hop additions and 60 min boil, my wort volume into primary was 4.5 gallons. I decided to go with that volume and not top off. I pitched wyeast 1057 at 76F, to a well shaken 6.5gal big mouth bubbler. I smacked the pack 3 days prior to brewing as per kit directions. The yeast pack was very swollen and appeared to be in good shape. The date on the package was Oct 27, 15.

I realize I under pitched this beer and I'm wondering what my course of action should be moving forward. After 16 hrs there is little fermentation activity. No visible movement in the fermenter(unlike my first batch). There is activity, just not aggressive. Do I wait it out and check the gravity in 2 weeks or is there something else I can do. I don't believe pitching more yeast at this stage is advisable? Your thoughts suggestions are greatly appreciated.

 

[TwistedHops]

Hello friend, yup you under pitched a little bit. Nothing you can do now, but in the future just make a starter. Best investment I've ever made (besides kegging, but that's another story lol). Or just pitch more smack packs. I think anything over an OG of 1.060 is considered "high gravity", so you'll always want more cells for those brews. You can always use a yeast cell calculator too.

For now, RDWHAHB! The yeast count will keep building over the next 3 days and then it'll take off and finish.

 

[brewcat]

Wait. It probably will take off in the next few hours.

You are suppose to smack the pack at least 3 hours before pitching, not 3 days. Your pitching temp is also too high.

 

[TwistedHops]

Your pitching temp is also too high.

Didn't even notice that, but yeah those temps are going to give you many ester flavors, probably undesirable.

But, live and learn.

 

[demetman]

Didn't even notice that, but yeah those temps are going to give you many ester flavors, probably undesirable.

But, live and learn.

I hate the fact that I may have screwed this one up! Live and learn, it is then. It's crazy, because the NB directions say to incubate yeast a few days before brewing. They also say to "add yeast once the temp of the wort is 78F or lower". I did question the pitching temp when reading the package of wyeast. It clearly states 65-72F and O.G. up to 1.060. I figured NB's directions would be reputable. One other procedure I'm questioning from the directions is the addition of dried chipotle to the secondary. Seed, break up and add to to secondary in a muslin bag for a day or two. Is this a potential contamination risk?

Based on some of these issues, how far would you guys take this batch before dumping? Would there be an acceptable F.G. to look for after primary fermentation? Just wondering if I should invest the time and hope it turns out decent or start over. Thanks for the advise.

 

[TwistedHops]

I hate the fact that I may have screwed this one up! Live and learn, it is then. It's crazy, because the NB directions say to incubate yeast a few days before brewing. They also say to "add yeast once the temp of the wort is 78F or lower". I did question the pitching temp when reading the package. It clearly states 65-72F and O.G. up to 1.060. I figured NB's directions would be reputable. One other procedure I'm questioning from the directions is the addition of dried chipotle to the secondary. Seed, break up and add to to secondary in a muslin bag for a day or two. Is this a potential contamination risk?

Based on some of these issues, how far would you guys take this batch before dumping? Would there be an acceptable F.G. to look for after primary fermentation? Just wondering if I should invest the time and hope it turns out decent or start over. Thanks for the advise.

Well first of all, don't throw out the batch! It won't be exactly what you want, but it's still beer! I bet you'll still enjoy it, because you made it!

As for NB, throw the directions away and pick up John Palmer's how to brew, an excellent book (or find the first edition free online).

For the pepper, I would do a tincture in vodka at bottling, that way you can do very small adjustments on a small quantity sample and make sure it tastes good before scaling it to the rest of your batch. If that doesn't make sense, let me know and i, or someone else, can chime in.

Just keep learning about the process and RDWHAHB!

 

[Calder]

Beer will be fine. Maybe not perfect, but will be beer.

Peppers: You could make some tea with them (put them in a mug and pour over boiling water), and add that to the beer. There is alcohol in the beer to protect it, but I would be dubious about adding peppers without sanitizing in some way.

 

[ncbrewer]

I wanted to do a full volume boil to increase hop utilization and add the LME at 45 minutes into the boil to reduce caramelization of sugars.

I haven't tried boiling hops without any malt extract, but I've read that it gives the hops some kind of undesirable flavor - harsh, I think. Most brewers using late extract addition start the boil with about 1/4 - 1/2 of the extract and then add the rest late. I add my late extract at flameout - really simplifies the process and minimizes the Maillard reactions. This seems to be a popular technique.

 

[TriggerHappy]

You have had what Bob Ross would call a happy accident. You are very stressed and just need to relax a little. Brewing is more like cooking than baking. Little things here and there are not going to ruin the batch, (unless it is in sanitization) just change it a little. Maybe better maybe not. While waiting for batches to ferment it is key to have some store bought beer on hand to help relax those nerves a bit. I give a 2nd on the "How to Brew" book. A great read at many different levels.

 

[demetman]

I haven't tried boiling hops without any malt extract, but I've read that it gives the hops some kind of undesirable flavor - harsh, I think. Most brewers using late extract addition start the boil with about 1/4 - 1/2 of the extract and then add the rest late. I add my late extract at flameout - really simplifies the process and minimizes the Maillard reactions. This seems to be a popular technique.

Ok thanks ncbrewer. I added all the DME to my boil kettle with my grain tea and proceeded to boil 5.75gal total volume for 45 min during hop schedule. With 15 min remaining I added all LME, late hop additions and wort chiller. I was able to chill wort to 78F in 22min. Do you think I should adjust this procedure? I'm brewing in a 10 gal brew kettle so I can achieve full wort volume boils without issue. Just trying to get an efficient technique down. My first beer took me 5 hrs to brew ( including set up and break down) which I was able to reduce to 3 hrs for my second beer. Your recommendations are appreciated.

 

[demetman]

RDWHAHB! Perfect advice TwistedHops. You know your green when you have to look that one up, ha ha! I am currently engulfed in John J Palmer's How To Brew. The brain is overloaded with info. I just go back and reference a specific subject when need be. All caught up on yeast starters tonight. Ordered a 2000ml erlenmeyer pyrex flast and a stir plate. Definately will be pitching the appropriate amount of yeast moving foreward.

 

[TwistedHops]

Well then you're already headed down the rabbit hole to craft the perfect home brew. Pretty soon you'll want mash tuns, chillers, fermentation chamber, and kegs.

Good luck my friend!