SMACC Pearl Session needs some critiques

[Helmet2]

I'm going for clear and hoppy. Considering adding a whirlfloc tablet at 10min. Will cold crash and fine with gelatin before kegging. Comments on hops are needed as well. I guess I'm kind of going for a low abv NEIPA without the haze.

3 gallon recipe

Water: RO water with 3.6g CaCl : 1.8g Gypsum

Grains: 5 lb Pearl UK (100%)

Hops:

0.5oz Summit @60min (I can sub this out with Warrior, Bravo or Millennium)

1.0 oz each of Mosaic, Azacca, Citra & Centennial @0min

2.0 oz each of Mosaic, Azacca, Citra & Centennial @3 days

Yeast: IOY Dry Hop. Built it up with a Pale DME starter just because I wanted to make sure the yeast was still viable after transit.

 

[IslandLizard]

For a NEIPA you should whirlpool at lower temps, say 150F or 160F for 30-45', instead of doing a 0' addition.

Essential for NEIPAs is the biotransformation of hop oils during fermentation. If you add dry hops after 3 days, chances are most of the fermentation is done by then, and you missed that (short) window. I'd start taking a refractometer sample* (one drop) after 18 hours and every 4-6 hours after until you've attained 30% of your predicted attenuation, then dry hop. You could split your dry hops and do the second one at 60-70% of predicted attenuation.

In that light, I doubt it's possible to create a non-hazy NEIPA. I'd say enjoy what you're getting, the haze is part of the experience.

Predicted attenuation:
If your yeast's attenuation is listed at 75% and your OG is 1.048, your predicted FG will be 25% of that, 1.012.
That means 48 - 12 = 36 pts of total attenuation.

30% attenuated is 36 x .3 = ~11 pts
So 30% attenuation from 1.048 - 11 pts = 1.037. Dry hop #1

70% attenuated is 36 x .7 = ~25 pts
So 70% attenuation from 1.048 - 25 pts = 1.023. Dry hop #2

* When taking refractometer readings when alcohol is present, make sure to use a correction formula as your gravity readings will be overstated. Use the standard wort correction factor of 1.040, it's close enough.

If you don't have a refractometer, use a hydrometer, but don't pour the sample back, just drink it, unless you know what you're doing.
You can siphon a sample out through the airlock hole with a 2' piece of skinny 5/16" OD vinyl tubing. No need to disturb the headspace. more than you need to.

How's that starter coming along?

 

[Helmet2]

|Essential for NEIPAs is the biotransformation of hop oils during fermentation.

I didn't realize this. I normally just wait for fermentation to wrap up before dry hopping.

I'm happy to say the yeast was still viable. I pitched 8 hours ago and can already see it chugging away.

 

[IslandLizard]

There's a lot of good info on NEIPAs in Braufessor's Northeast Style IPA thread. Worth reading.
Start with the beginning few pages, then skip to the end and read backward for updates. There are others.

Yeast starters are essential! You need good healthy yeast and ample cell count. Starters are the only way to get that.

If you didn't overbuild your starter and saved some out for a next brew, you can reclaim (harvest) the yeast from the fermentor after packaging. It will contain a lot of hop pulp, but the yeast suspended is good. You may want to "rinse" the yeast to clean it up a bit, but is not absolutely necessary.
Many yeasts get better with successive use, as long as you keep good sanitation.

If you're only 8 hours in, you can surely dry hop at the 30% point. That point may well be today, it goes fast in the beginning. Just toss em in, no need or even recommended to bag. My last one was totally done in 3 days, I had missed the 30% point and ended up dry hopping at around 60% done. It wasn't as milky as I wanted, but still very hazy.

Enjoy that Haze! It's an experience!
Don't fine!

 

[IslandLizard]

BTW, 8 oz of dry hops in a 3 gallon batch is quite a lot!

 

[couchsending]

I think none of those things are “key”.

Pro breweries are not whirlpooling at 150 and you do not need to dry hop at high krausen to get “biotransformation”, you just need some yeast activity, 1 to 2 Plato to go is fine. Adding that many hops during fermentation is not good for the yeast and can lead to reduction in diacetyl uptake and other yeast health related fermentation issues. The references for the style that do “biotransformation” additions are only doing one and it’s very close to terminal gravity. The second “DDH” addition is generally added after pulling as much yeast and cooling to the high 50s/low 60s.

For 3 gallons you only need 1/4 tab of whirlfloc. More is not merrier with that stuff.

I’d choose Bravo or Warrior over summit for bittering. I’ve never used summit but I can’t think of any pro recipe off the top of my health that uses it for bittering. It has a tendency to be very onion/garlic which may or may not survive the boil. Bravo is an awesome hop, it’s only classified as a bittering hop but it has this awesome floral orange aspect when used late or for DH.

If you want a clear beer you definitely chose the wrong yeast, you’ll definitely need to fine. Dry hop contains Sacch Trois and Conan which don’t like to flocc at all and will require fining to clear. But it will probably add some fruity esters which will complement the hops. If you have temp control next time try Imperial A01. It clears remarkably well with cold conditioning even if hops are added during fermentation.

 

[Helmet2]

I think none of those things are “key”.

Pro breweries are not whirlpooling at 150 and you do not need to dry hop at high krausen to get “biotransformation”, you just need some yeast activity, 1 to 2 Plato to go is fine. Adding that many hops during fermentation is not good for the yeast and can lead to reduction in diacetyl uptake and other yeast health related fermentation issues. The references for the style that do “biotransformation” additions are only doing one and it’s very close to terminal gravity. The second “DDH” addition is generally added after pulling as much yeast and cooling to the high 50s/low 60s.

For 3 gallons you only need 1/4 tab of whirlfloc. More is not merrier with that stuff.

I’d choose Bravo or Warrior over summit for bittering. I’ve never used summit but I can’t think of any pro recipe off the top of my health that uses it for bittering. It has a tendency to be very onion/garlic which may or may not survive the boil. Bravo is an awesome hop, it’s only classified as a bittering hop but it has this awesome floral orange aspect when used late or for DH.

If you want a clear beer you definitely chose the wrong yeast, you’ll definitely need to fine. Dry hop contains Sacch Trois and Conan which don’t like to flocc at all and will require fining to clear. But it will probably add some fruity esters which will complement the hops. If you have temp control next time try Imperial A01. It clears remarkably well with cold conditioning even if hops are added during fermentation.

I completely forgot the Whirlfloc tablet all together so I will be embracing the haze on this one. I did end up using Warrior. This was more due to laziness because my Warrior was already opened and I didn't want to waste a freezer bag on 1.5 oz of Summit.