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Skinning a keezer

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Redtab78

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So I have my collar built and lid attached, all sealed and insullated, now I'm ready to trim it out, and am finding inspiration in the coffin look, but with the taps on the collar. I have attached the hinges to the collar, and secured the lid so that my taps will lift out of the way and I plan on running all the lines so that they move as well...

I am thinking about using pallets to match my pallet bar, horizontal, and am wondering about space between the wood and the freezer skin...

The question is, is that mandatory?.
 
The space between the freezer skin and the wood is important to allow the heat produced by the freezer to escape. I understand if you attach the wood to the skin, the compressor runs the risk of overheating and shortening the life of the freezer. Some guys also include computer fans to help cool that space.
I hope this answers your question. Good luck with the build. :mug:
 
I was thinking about skinning mine too. The more I thought about it the more I figured I would just be introducing problems. MY final thought is to just go with a nice flat black paint to make the collar and taps stand out more
 
2 cans of black chalkboard paint was my final decision...the top is a cabernete color, so I'll make a skirt 6" around the bottom to match the top and call it done...maybe when I upgrade to a bigger freezer I'll rethink the chest atyle, but for now, since I'm rushed somewhat, this will have to do!

Thanks everyone!
 
I have a friend that works with AC and R. He says that it is a waste of time to over engineer keezers. Depending on the skin, it is not worth the time and effort. 1/4" plywood has a r value of less than .33 and has practically no effect on compressor life.
 
To add to what CGVT said already, aluminum sheeting, face brick, 4" of concrete or even full brick ALL have less of an R value than a 1" air gap!!

1/2" plywood and 5/8" Sheetrock are under 0.7 R but should be glued directly to the skin, NO AIR GAP unless you have free air movement.
 

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