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Got a delivery today.. I thought it was going to be the BG14 burners, but it turned out to be the 2 Mr. Heater Low Pressure LP Regulators for the HLT & MLT.. One day shipping, gotta love Amazon deals. The burners should be here tomorrow! :)
 
Burners showed up today... Now I need the burner mounts from BrewersHardware.com to come back into stock so I can get Brutus back to the welder and get this project roaring (pun intended)
ImageUploadedByHome Brew1390452675.589663.jpg
 
FYI I was told by brewers hardware the rings are in stock and shipping this week. I'm on the fence about these or making my own.
 
FYI I was told by brewers hardware the rings are in stock and shipping this week. I'm on the fence about these or making my own.


I just talked to them yesterday and they didn't mention it.. do you know who you spoke with? I want to get these burners mounted for sure.. Thanks for the heads up!
 
Hi Chris,

Actually we were just notified they are done and we’ll be picking them up/shipping them this week.

Derrin

That was Monday. You running all low pressure? I'm learning all that stuff now. Hope to build my stand in the coming weeks. I have the rest other than the gas plumbing.
 
I'll have my HLT and MLT running on low pressure and my Boil Kettle on high pressure. I got 2 Mr. Heater low pressure regulators off Amazon for $14/each with free shipping. That way I can automate the HLT/MLT temps. I'll try to post an updated parts list tonight or tomorrow. My biggest obstacle is finding large enough kettles, preferably with welded fittings. BrewersHardware was supposed to get me a quote on 3- 45 gallon premium kettles they can weld on, but I haven't heard back yet.
 
I'll have my HLT and MLT running on low pressure and my Boil Kettle on high pressure. I got 2 Mr. Heater low pressure regulators off Amazon for $14/each with free shipping. That way I can automate the HLT/MLT temps. I'll try to post an updated parts list tonight or tomorrow. My biggest obstacle is finding large enough kettles, preferably with welded fittings. BrewersHardware was supposed to get me a quote on 3- 45 gallon premium kettles they can weld on, but I haven't heard back yet.
I'm on the fence with low/high or all low pressure. I have keggles so low should be fine across the board.
 
I'm on the fence with low/high or all low pressure. I have keggles so low should be fine across the board.


You'll have to swap out the orifice, it comes with high pressure ones.. Brewers hardware sells low pressure orifices with built in needle valves. I've been waiting to order a pair until the burner mounts came back into stock..
 
You'll have to swap out the orifice, it comes with high pressure ones.. Brewers hardware sells low pressure orifices with built in needle valves. I've been waiting to order a pair until the burner mounts came back into stock..
I do know that. What are you running for a regulator?
 
I do know that. What are you running for a regulator?


I'm following CopBrew133 model and running a high pressure regulator 0-30 PSI out of the tank and then into the 2 low pressure regulators for the HLT & MLT then straight high pressure to the boil kettle burner..
 
I finally think I am going all low pressure. So I have a new 30psi reg I need to return or resell. Unsure I want the brewers hardware ball valves or the tejas CV0250 needle valve on the HLT and MT since I am not automating with this phase and it might help with controlling the temps over the ball valve.
 
Rough day all around, didn't forget about the build tho.. Got a pic of the kettles in an email. More details to follow hopefully.. ImageUploadedByHome Brew1390976704.470737.jpg
 
Where can I find some information to research low and high pressure. Do you just go low pressure to save fuel or if you are automating?

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FYI the Brewers Hardware screens are in stock and shipping. Got my 3 over the weekend. Nice pieces and a lot sturdier than I imagined.
 
Where can I find some information to research low and high pressure. Do you just go low pressure to save fuel or if you are automating?


You need to use low pressure to automate the burner valves. I'm using high pressure tho to manually control the boil kettle.


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You need to use low pressure to automate the burner valves. I'm using high pressure tho to manually control the boil kettle.


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This is what I have learned in this shotgun build and zero experience as off a month or so ago.

I am going all low pressure and future automation, but have a 0-30psi regulator I may use on the BK if I find the low pressure isn't enough for me. Seems it's a 50/50 split on those that go all LP to those that go with a LP/HP combo
 
That chiller looks as if it can be disassembled for cleaning like the commercial ones. Could be this one, but not positive. I looked at them before and this was the only one on the homebrew scale I could find. I wanted one until I saw the price tag. My wife would have killed me, lol.

https://brewmagic.com/product/plate-pro-sanitary-wort-chiller/


That pic of the kettles was sent to me from BrewersHardware.com those kettles aren't in their website tho.. I assume the plate chiller was something they sell


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Oh, i thought that was your set-up. After the ice storm last night, I looked at your site and wish I had one of your BVIP brews right now. Thanks


Thanks bro, i custom made my stand. Having a hard time picking out kettles. The ones from brewers hardware are 47 gallons and expensive. I think I might go with the 162qt (40.5 gallon) bayou classic kettles after all that. They're 2mm thick and cheaper. Just need a welder to put in a ball valve and coupler for a thermowell/thermometer. Will post when I pull the trigger! :)


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Kettles are crazy high. I'm looking at fabricating my own. 2.5' in dia x 5' tall. I really like the Psycobrew kettles they are making. I'm making mine out of 12g material. May never get it off the ground, but that is my plan.
 
Just a bit of warning in regards to BG14 banjo burners, they work great on high pressure and okay on low pressure, the problem is most people, including me, use the incorrect size gas supply tubing and or wrong regulator.

From the honeywell valve in my setup I have 1/2" gas pipe running to a shutoff valve, from that valve I ran flexible gas line to the burner orifice. The flexible line is something like 1/4" ID, this is not good for BTU ratings. Look at this way, try filling up a pool with a garden hose connected to a fire hydrant, takes for ever even though the output is high right?

While my burners worked well I found that I was spending way too long waiting for water to heat up, the solution is to run 1/2" plumbing directly to the burners, yes you will have to use some adapters on the orifice, but trust me the results will pay off. If I had used jet burners I would not have this issue as 1/2" NPT threads directly onto the jet burners.

Someone had posted much earlier that the Banjo burners were not the best choice for low pressure and that the jet burner was better, I concur, I would have saved so much in time and money if I had just gone with jet burners. Keep in mind the original Brutus ten used jet burners and a low pressure regulator, also the more plumbing after the low pressure regulator in a gas system the lower the BTUs will be. Currently I'm removing as much plumbing as I can, I had a 7 hour brew day due to low BTU output of my system. Oh and jet burners are generally very quiet when operating on low pressure LP, it's high pressure LP that cause just burners to should like....well a jet!

I hope this helps and good luck!
 
gas pipe paint.jpg
You can get larger flexible connectors. I am using ones that are 13/8" id and they work fine.
 
Just for FYI the NPT going into the jet burners are 3/8". I had to go with a hard pipe reducing bushing from the 1/2" into the burner. Just in case anybody is planning this out.
 
I went a different route and now I am wondering if it will need redoing. I am 3/8" out of a LP Fisher 232 reg, to 1/2 pipe and then back to 3/8" lines to the burners. I can only assume the ID on those lines is 1/4". Time will tell once I build the stand.
 
Just for FYI the NPT going into the jet burners are 3/8". I had to go with a hard pipe reducing bushing from the 1/2" into the burner. Just in case anybody is planning this out.

Really, I'm pretty sure my jet/wok burners have 1/2" thread.

Mine are the 20 tip, but pretty much the same.

Link to Burner
 
Information overload!


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Sorry my bad, I've spent a LOT of unnecessary money because I used BG14 Banjo burners, I'm only trying to prevent someone else from doing the same. It's not that the bg14 banjo burners will not work on low pressure LP just don't expect them to put out the rated BTUs. I have a 10 gallon system, it would take close to an hour to get 13 gallons of 160 degree wort to boil, that's just too long.

I will post my results of my upgrades this Sunday as I'm brewing tomorrow, hopefully everything works out. I've ordered a jet burner so in can test a different burner, if it works better then expect to see two bg14 banjo burners come up for sale.

My upgrades consist of plumbing my regulator, which is a duel stage low pressure 1/2" outlet 200,000 BTU regulator, directly to my gas rail as close to the honeywell valve as I can as well as making the burner supply 1/2" ID lines as short as possible.
 
I went a different route and now I am wondering if it will need redoing. I am 3/8" out of a LP Fisher 232 reg, to 1/2 pipe and then back to 3/8" lines to the burners. I can only assume the ID on those lines is 1/4". Time will tell once I build the stand.


More than likely your 3/8 OD lines are 1/4 ID.

Are you using low pressure propane?
 
Yes all low pressure. I have the HP orifices still and have a 30psi reg I may decide to use on the BK if LP isn't enough, but time will tell.
 
My 20 tip jet burners are 1/2" thread. I plumbed with 3/4" and reduced at the burner with 1/2"

That's what I did as well. Of course, when I had the Blichmann TOP ASCO valves put on there, they squashed two of the lines down to 3/8". But those are the ones that heat the HLT and MLT. So it's not really slowing me down too much. But you can definitely tell the difference between those two burners and the one with the larger OD pipe unrestricted all the way to the burner.
 
Yes all low pressure. I have the HP orifices still and have a 30psi reg I may decide to use on the BK if LP isn't enough, but time will tell.


Try and get larger ID lines on your burner, also try and get the regulator as close to the burner as you can. Really the best way is to mount the regulator to the gas line and run a hose from the inlet of the regulator to the propane tank. I've seen some brew stands that are split high and low pressure propane, low press for the automatic control and high pressure for the BK.
 
On Saturday I ordered the BG14 mounts from brewershardware (finally back in stock!) and got 2 adjustable low pressure orifices. Should be here soon so I can get the stand back to the welder and start working on this again! :)

Also starting to think of using the Bayou Classic 1062- 162qt. (40.5 gallon) kettles instead of the 45 gallon kettles. The 1062 model is 2mm thick. More expensive but I think it's going to be worth it in the long run. Cheers!


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Burner mounts and low pressure orifices arrived from Brewers Hardware today. Now I just need to get the stand back to the welder.

Ordered the 0-30psi bayou classic adjustable regulator off of amazon tonight. Can't wait for these next few steps. All this work, I can't wait to fire it up!


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Sorry my bad, I've spent a LOT of unnecessary money because I used BG14 Banjo burners, I'm only trying to prevent someone else from doing the same. It's not that the bg14 banjo burners will not work on low pressure LP just don't expect them to put out the rated BTUs. I have a 10 gallon system, it would take close to an hour to get 13 gallons of 160 degree wort to boil, that's just too long.

I will post my results of my upgrades this Sunday as I'm brewing tomorrow, hopefully everything works out. I've ordered a jet burner so in can test a different burner, if it works better then expect to see two bg14 banjo burners come up for sale.

My upgrades consist of plumbing my regulator, which is a duel stage low pressure 1/2" outlet 200,000 BTU regulator, directly to my gas rail as close to the honeywell valve as I can as well as making the burner supply 1/2" ID lines as short as possible.


Would it make sense to use 3/4" OD piping so the inner diameter of my gas pipe is 1/2"? I really want to get this right on the first shot.. lol


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