Simplest (?) Keggle Cutting Jig

Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum

Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Even using the Dremel's fiberglas reinforced cutting wheels they still break besides not cheap. Using a Dremel is like powering a cement truck up the road with a 5 hp lawnmower engine, sure it will move but how long will it take?
I own a plasma cutter but wish to not use it on my kegs.
What happened to the video one member posted on a DIY holding jig then hand rotated the keg against a lathe bit making a machined clean cut? This was some 5-6 years ago.
 
I cut my first keg top off with a dremel about, shoot, must be going on two years ago now. It took about an hour and was a huge PITA. after getting on this site a week ago and then coming across this tread I just cut the other two kegs that have been sitting in my garage. had a piece of 1-1/4" PVC, chopped out some parts to get my grinder handle to fit, zip-tied it to the handle. marked the kegs after releasing pressure and taking out the center, maybe 15 minutes later, two keg tops cut off. take the time to do some type of jig, you won't regret it. Thanks to all for the input on this site.
 
Just used this jig setup yesterday. had my new boil keggle cut and sanded in 20 minutes. thank you passedpawn.
 
Great post, I was about to build a wooden jig when I saw this thread. Worked like a charm, just a few minutes and I was done thanks.
 
man this looks good.. i have a wooden jig one that works great and cut in prob 5 min but this actually looks easier than that.. and takes up a lot less room since i kept my wooden one.. well looks like i get to make something else... good post
 
Got this all set up to grind tomorrow -- my kids are asleep in the bedroom over the garage, so I guess I have to wait to cut the top off. Thanks for the simple tip!
 
Got this all set up to grind tomorrow -- my kids are asleep in the bedroom over the garage, so I guess I have to wait to cut the top off. Thanks for the simple tip!

little tip put some water in the keg, its not as loud as if it were empty

-=Jason=-
 
Used this jig to do two kegs yesterday! Worked fantastic. I had to wrap a little tape around the PVC to thicken it so it would sit tight inside the hole. Cleaned it up with a dremel and am now ready to drill some holes for hardware!
 
I use the same setup with a plasma cutter handle and works great as well. This is definitely the best way to cut a hole in the top of a keg. It gives you very consistent holes. Whether you use an angle grinder with cutting wheel or a plasma cutter it works great!

This might be the simplest jig for cutting the top off a sanke keg. It is just a 1-1/4" PVC coupler with a 1/2" channel cut out of it, then a hose clamp to hold the grinder. I also stick a piece of PVC pipe into the coupler which extends into the keg for more support. Couldn't be easier. I've cut 4 perfect holes with this setup. Tighten that clamp down tight.

Of course, the center tube (spear) must be removed before you begin. This involves 1) depressing the ball and ensuring there is no pressure in the keg (make GD sure you do this!), prying out the retaining ring, rotating the spear and sliding it out.

Note that once the entire circumference of the lid is cut, there is nothing left to support your tool. I have not had any problem with this at all, but if you are concerned you can extend the pipe 20" (or so) so that it is just off the bottom of the keg: when the lid is cut the grinder won't drop into keg.

PA210005.JPG


PA210007.JPG


Some more notes:

  1. If you intend on using a grinder with the same jig that I built, you'll need one with a handle mount on the back of the grinder head, not just on the sides. Some grinders (especially the cheap Harbor Freight ones) don't have this hole.
  2. Maybe this is obvious, but make sure to remove the spear first. At least make damn sure there's no pressure in there. Pressing a screwdriver into the ball will do that. If you need help getting the spear out, let me know.
  3. Take your time. Move around the keg in circles, slowly grinding a line in a circle around the keg. Don't expect the grinder to get through it right away... you need to keep etching that circle and eventually it will go through. If you try to force the cutting disk into the cut, it will shatter and you'll be replacing the disk. So, don't push down, just let the rotating wheel and the weight of the grinder do it. It won't take long.
  4. Wear protective eyewear and hearing protection. It is possible that the rotating grinding disk will fly apart. Cutting can be very very loud, especially right above the keg. Filling it with a few gallons of water can help reduce the noise a lot.
  5. After you cut the top off, clean up that edge with a flap disk for your new grinder. It will be sharp and believe me can cut your arm when you are cleaning it after a brewday.
  6. Don't ever use anything made of steel to cut or clean your keg, unless it is stainless. This includes iron wool, files, etc. They will embed iron into the SS and it WILL rust later.
  7. Barkeepers friend does a great job cleaning the thing up.
  8. You might be curious what diameter the hole should be. I cut mine at about 12" and that's worked out great. IMO the larger the better. One thing to consider, though, is that you can buy replacement glass pot covers at kitchen stores (or online) pretty cheap, and you can cut the hole to match a pot cover. That would be pretty cool, but maybe only for the HLT and mash tun.
 
So I cut the top off my keg a few weeks ago and everything went more or less perfectly using this jig. However, I had an issue in that my cutting blade had deteriorated quite a bit before I made my final pass around and broke through the top. So, by that time I was no longer cutting a hole at my original diameter. Is there any way to prevent this in the future?
 
I ended up doing a modified version as my cheapo Harbor Freight grinder didn't have the required handle attachment.

6146438809_37792eaa28_z.jpg


You will also notice that the switch is in a crappy spot and the operation of the entire setup hinges on the stick I jammed between the grinder and pipe to keep the switch accessible.
 
Just did one. :ban:

I can't imagine doing it without a jig.

I did a lot of browsing around the jig designs and I think this one so far is the simplest to make and really do a good job.

It took me a bit long for the first time (roughly 20 minutes) but I think I can do better for the next two kegs.

Thanks for posting this jig idea. :mug:
 
Did three using the blade guard of the angle iron as a guide against the rim of the keg. So, sort freehand with help. Worked great. One 1/16" cutoff wheel per keg, 2 min per keg plus another 10 to clean up the edges with a stone wheel and sandpaper. Planned on going the jig route but my angle iron was a cheap ryobi and didn't have handles in the right place for easy jig construction. Kinda glad I didn't waste the jig build effort . . . but that's just me.
 
I think I will borrow my buddy's plasma cutter. The savings to my ears alone would be worth it.

my experience with plasma cutters has been a very dirty and messy cut, lots of slag stuck to the cut that needed to be ground away. now this was think 1/4" steel, not thin SS on a keg. I can get a very clean cut with a cut off wheel that needs little clean up.

just wear ear plugs when cutting, put a few gallons of water inside the keg to absorb the noise and go slow and steady.

-=Jason=-
 
This may be slightly off topic, but really the eeeasiest way to cut a keggle is to just lay the keg on it's side, sit on it, and cut the whole top off where the dome meets the sides using an angle grinder and a cutoff disk. One disk per keg will do it. Sure you lose a tiny bit of volume b/c of the dome you just removed, but I'll sacrifice a 1/2 gallon of volume to a avoid a chunk of shattered cutoff disk flying at my face. Those things are not intended to cut curves. You can add handles for like $12 a pop using those heavy duty fence door pulls and a pair of bolts. I also found that a large (I don't know what size but I can measure it) aluminum pizza pan is perfect for a lid, which I bought for $5 at a restaurant supply place. The top of the keg sits right in the groove of the pan.
 
You can shatter a disk doing it your way too. You lose that handles, volume, and structural integrity of the pot.

Sure but it's much less likely since I'm cutting a totally straight line. There's even a nice groove in the shell to guide the cutting wheel. I'd say the structural integrity question is pretty moot since it's still plenty strong this way.

Edit: I really only bring this up because I tried to cut the top off originally and actually did have a disk crack and fly apart. Nothing hit me, but that's when I decided to just cut the whole top off and not risk it. Sure if you're super gentle it can work, but I wasn't pushing too hard. Those cut off wheels are really flimsy.
 
I wanted to add to this thread for those who use the Harbor Freight air tools. I like to use air tools whenever possible, and this is the HF 4" Angle Grinder. all PVC fittings are 1 1/4

IMG_1872.JPG


IMG_1875.JPG


IMG_1880.JPG


IMG_1881.JPG
 
I wanted to add to this thread for those who use the Harbor Freight air tools. I like to use air tools whenever possible, and this is the HF 4" Angle Grinder. all PVC fittings are 1 1/4

Very nice! That "T" is a great idea. A very great idea. Might help those without the handle on the back of the grinder.
 
First off. Thank you passed pawn for the inspiration to build a jig. I have now cut four kegs ( three for me and one for my dad) the first one I just free handed with a plasma. To much clean up after the cut. The second I drew a circle with some string around the neck and then free handed with a grinder. Much easier clean up but still not perfect. I then found this thread.

I'm always on a budget and I didn't want to go to the hardware store... I used a 20oz Gatorade bottle with the bottle cut off. It fits right over the neck of the keg. (pretty sure neck isn't the right word) I then connected it to the grinder just like passed pawn and cut my last two kegs in under five minutes.

I don't know how to post pictures from my phone. I have no access to a computer while I'm at work. I would love to show the jig I used if anyone can tell me how to put up pictures I will

Thanks again passed pawn!!!
 
The best secret I have found that I don't hear mentioned when cutting these. MAKE multiple passes. First pass just etch it. Second a little deeper... Saves disks and energy.. cutting to deep per pass will brake a disk every time.
 
The best secret I have found that I don't hear mentioned when cutting these. MAKE multiple passes. First pass just etch it. Second a little deeper... Saves disks and energy.. cutting to deep per pass will brake a disk every time.

I did mention it in the list of advice in the original post. The first time I tried to cut a keg, I pushed the cutting disk right down into the metal. It caught and shattered violently.

Glad it went well for you guys. :mug:

  1. Take your time. Move around the keg in circles, slowly grinding a line in a circle around the keg. Don't expect the grinder to get through it right away... you need to keep etching that circle and eventually it will go through. If you try to force the cutting disk into the cut, it will shatter and you'll be replacing the disk. So, don't push down, just let the rotating wheel and the weight of the grinder do it. It won't take long.
 
After borrowing a 10 gal. kettle for my first two batches, it was time to make my Keggle. All this after I got an extract kit for Xmas...I am hooked!

Finally got around to cutting the keg last night. Figured I would post my version of the angle grinder jig. I picked up a Task Force Angle Grinder at Lowe's for $20 on clearance. Luckily it had a thread on top for the handle.

Jig is comprised of 5/16" threaded rod, 1 1/4" PVC pipe and 1 1/4" PVC coupler with some nuts to hold to the threaded rod in place. All in this cost about $6 and was well worth it.

P2090716.jpg

P2090708.jpg

P2090712.jpg

P2090714.jpg

I went slowly and let the weight of the tool do the work. Only took about 10 minutes and I have a nice 11/7/8" hole. Now all I need is my weldless fittings from Bobby and I am ready to put this to work.
 
I used this, but I extended the inner PVC to the bottom of the keg. Worked like a charm.
 
Eh, all this seems unnecessary. I just used the guard as a guide against the lip of the keg and went around it. Perfect circle.
 
I figured for the 5 minutes it took to set the jig up it was worth it to have a secure attachment to work with a tool that i had no prior experience using. Plus now, if/when I cut up any other kegs, everything is uniform.
 
Eh, all this seems unnecessary. I just used the guard as a guide against the lip of the keg and went around it. Perfect circle.

I cut 3 kegs for a friend of mine a couple of weeks ago.

Here's one I cut for him with the jig. Guiding on the rim would not have ended up in a nice circle (note the dent in the rim). His other two were in better condition tho.

IMG_4354.JPG
 
Eh, all this seems unnecessary. I just used the guard as a guide against the lip of the keg and went around it. Perfect circle.

I used a lid from one of the SWMBO pots with a black marker. Used the grinder with a cut off wheel.......ta da:ban:
 
Eh, all this seems unnecessary. I just used the guard as a guide against the lip of the keg and went around it. Perfect circle.

Never knew anyone who didn't take the guard off a grinder before even plugging it in for the first time. Funny.

Define "perfect."
 
Passedpawn, or other DIYers, what thickness disc do you use for this? The grinder I bought came with a 1/4 inch thick metal cutting disc, but I expect that many of you may have used a thinner (1/8 inch?) thick disc.

Also, did you use any "metal cutting disc", or are there special discs for stainless steel (if so, I haven't found any yet)?

Thanks
 
Back
Top