Silicone tubing problems..

[mongoose33]

I used to keep them under Starsan for a few hours after brew day. That "chalking" appeared after accidental prolonged submersion in Starsan, like 3-5 weeks or so, I simply forgot to pull them out. I scrubbed the white haze off, and pumped hot PBW through them. I see no degradation whatsoever. No brittleness either.

I'm with you on that, I don't think it's the Starsan per se, unless the tubing the OP uses is not Starsan resistant, which may be the case.

I keep a small container filled with Starsan with short pieces of vinyl tubing used as adapters, silicone stoppers, racking cane inverters, oxygenation stones, and a 3" piece of that 1/2" thick walled silicone hose. That piece of silicone hose must have been under Starsan for over 6 years by now, except for short uses in between, when bottling or filling growlers.
That piece is as pliable and transparent as a new hose while all the pieces of vinyl tubing are opaque, but will clear upon drying, and many plastic pieces have lost some of their color.

On a side note, those silicone hoses I use are the Platinum cured type I got about 7 years ago.

I've had both the clear vinyl tubing and silicone tubing develop issues. The vinyl tubing became slimy, the silicone developed the white haze on it as you describe above.

I still sanitize tubing w/ Star-San, but it's just a dip and a drain. No long-term soaking. Frankly, they don't need more than a dip unless they're not cleaned properly--and if not, then they need to be....cleaned properly.

 

[mongoose33]

I'd agree, it looks like you might be over-stretching them. Try a little larger tubing and a gentle clamp like the Oetiker.

Where are you getting the larger Oetiker clamps? I have the larger ones from Brewhardware and they are not large enough to go over 1/2" silicone tubing stretched over a barb.

 

[IslandLizard]

Reinforced silicon is the way to go. Yes is cost a bunch, buy once, cry once. Check for sale, occasionally someone buys a crap.load and sells it for a good price

Do those stretch over the hi-flo barbs, like Big-C? Doesn't the fiber reinforcement prevent dimensional change?
Or do you compress it lengthwise a little so it can slip over the barb?

I remember a guy on here selling lots of it a while ago. All different lengths, probably remnants.

 

[milldoggy]

Do those stretch over the hi-flo barbs, like Big-C? Doesn't the fiber reinforcement prevent dimensional change?
Or do you compress it lengthwise a little so it can slip over the barb?

I remember a guy on here selling lots of it a while ago. All different lengths, probably remnants.

Fits fine, I use both the original hand made versions (I ground the threads off an elbow) and the new factory made ones.

 

[beermanpete]

Those original long barb Camlocks badly restrict flow, especially at the 1/2" size. The bore isn't even 1/4 inch.

Many of us use those short single barb Hi-Flow models, probably made by machining down the threads. For that reason I doubt they can be much wider, unless the barb itself has a much higher profile, thus ruining the hose.

I do agree the first time I was a bit nervous about the amount of stretch needed, but have had no issues.

I know this a tangent to the original post but what is the need for the high flow fittings? I end up using the valves to restrict the flow to 1 gpm or less depending on the particular step in the brewing process. At this flow rate I could use 1/4" tubing and still would need to restrict the flow.

 

[SOBrewing]

For me on recirculation and gathering running there is no benefit, however for transferring from hlt to mt I want it to move as fast as possible. Maybe it still doesn't make a difference but what's the point of using 1/2 id tubing if you're only going to choke it down at the connections?

 

[govner1]

Where are you getting the larger Oetiker clamps? I have the larger ones from Brewhardware and they are not large enough to go over 1/2" silicone tubing stretched over a barb.

I have a large variety of sizes and don’t recall which source for the really large ones. Let me research & I’ll get the info to you.

 

[IslandLizard]

I know this a tangent to the original post but what is the need for the high flow fittings? I end up using the valves to restrict the flow to 1 gpm or less depending on the particular step in the brewing process. At this flow rate I could use 1/4" tubing and still would need to restrict the flow.

Why hi-flo fittings?
To reduce resistance and maximize volume. For transferring liquids, as @SOBrewing said. For whirlpooling, you need to pump high volume to get enough velocity at the exit nozzle. Also for chilling (plate chiller/CFC).

The difference is remarkable.

 

[beermanpete]

Why hi-flo fittings?
To reduce resistance and maximize volume. For transferring liquids, as @SOBrewing said. For whirlpooling, you need to pump high volume to get enough velocity at the exit nozzle. Also for chilling (plate chiller/CFC).

The difference is remarkable.

Got it. Thanks. I don't whirlpool or use the pump during runoff so I don't need the high flow rate. If I try the whirlpool technique I will keep this in mind.

 

[whovous]

It seems unlikely that the problem is only StarSan if only the ends of the tubing is degraded. The problem should be visible elsewhere.

 

[govner1]

Where are you getting the larger Oetiker clamps? I have the larger ones from Brewhardware and they are not large enough to go over 1/2" silicone tubing stretched over a barb.

The 21mm Oetikers came from OCS Parts via Amazon. They had a deal on a pkg of 150 for $29.33.