Show us your element housings/pots. How did you do it?

[lextasy23]

• Dryer cord is unwieldy during use - it just doesn't bend easily and won't lay flat on the ground.
• It maintains bends after you store it.
• The connector is not meant for repeated in/outs. It's a PITA.
• The cord is gray, which shows dirt, and looks crappy soon after it's first used, then forever after.
• The ridges in the cable hold crap that is not simple to clean out.
• It's not round, so good luck with adding connectors/glands.
• Off-the-shelf dryer cords come in one length, about 6' from memory.

Thanks man... Those are awesome reasons and I'm glad you caught me before checkout. I think I'll build exactly what you have!

EDIT: (to avoid threadjacking... https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?p=7076635#post7076635)

 

[lschiavo]

You will be making the better choice

 

[BrunDog]

I was hoping to see the "goop in"!!

-BD

 

[lschiavo]

I was hoping to see the "goop in"!!

-BD

Ahhh, weren't we all?

And here is a little ditty I wrote: [spoken in spongebob narrator voice]

Set aside your silicone, your JB Weld
and other such epoxies.

If you wish to make a seal, use proper fittings,
elbow grease and not one aforesaid proxies.

LS

***edit*** sorry that sucks

 

[augiedoggy]

yeah Dont use the dryer cord I bought it and never used it... it sucks.

I did use correctly rated aviation connectors and speakon connectors though in my builds instead of the hubble style nema connectors and saved like $80 or so this way.

 

[BrunDog]

Agreed that dryer cord should not be used. Wrong application plus you get what you pay for applies here.

BTW I don't know if it was shown here, but I have the BrewPi stainless element housing in my BK. It's a gorgeous piece!

-BD

 

[angrybits]

correctly rated aviation connectors and speakon connectors

I see from Wikipedia that Speakon connectors are rated for 40A, but is there a voltage limitation? Does AC vs DC matter? What do you use them for?

 

[augiedoggy]

I see from Wikipedia that Speakon connectors are rated for 40A, but is there a voltage limitation? Does AC vs DC matter? What do you use them for?

I used them for my element power cords at the panel... they work and were rated for the ac voltage fine but dont really lock into place... I used these on my last build.

http://www.ebay.com/sch/sis.html?_n...id=321514587280&&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2658

 

[dmcman73]

One thing to add, DON'T make the box completely sealed! You'll want a small hole at the bottom of the box as a "weep hole". If for some reason the seal between the element and kettle leaks into the box, you'll never know until the box fills up and you hear that dreaded "BOOM" from an electrical short. If there is a leak, you'll see it dripping out of the weep hole well before anything happens.

You're not submerging the kettles to clean them.

 

[jcav]

Still Dragon housing here. Another member here welded the TC ferrule to the keggle. I removed the too-small plastic strain releif that came with it, widened the hole, and used a large SS PG21 gland. Works great. Nice to be able to remove the ripple element so easily for cleaning.

Hi Andrew, just curious is the hole required for the PG21 gland a lot bigger than the hole that is already drilled in the end cap. I have no way of knowing as Lowes and Home Depot did not have any left by me. So I will probably order two of them online. I wanted to know if my step bits will work and if they are big enough, or if I need to drill them out another way. Thanks for your time!

John

 

[passedpawn]

Hi Andrew, just curious is the hole required for the PG21 gland a lot bigger than the hole that is already drilled in the end cap. I have no way of knowing as Lowes and Home Depot did not have any left by me. So I will probably order two of them online. I wanted to know if my step bits will work and if they are big enough, or if I need to drill them out another way. Thanks for your time!

John

As I remember, the hole just needed to be opened a slight bit. My step bit did the job easily. I just clamped the piece down and it was done in no time.

I think that after I added this gland, there was very little space for the ring terminal on the ground lug. I had to shave off part of the ring terminal on my grinder to get it to seat properly, but it all worked out fine in the end.

It seems that others here have found suitable glands that didn't require this hole to be widened. You might investigate that before you buy these. I'm not positive though.

 

[jcav]

Thanks Andrew that is exactly the info I was looking for. It seems many online vendors are out or only have one left. Many have bags of 10 or more. I did find some on McMaster Carr that will probably work just fine. Thanks again!

John

 

[masonsjax]

I have a stilldragon element housing and used the stock PG19 gland with my SJOOW 10/3 wire and it fit perfectly. I have some PG21 glands as well and they also fit the wire, but can be cranked down a little further.

 

[passedpawn]

I have a stilldragon element housing and used the stock PG19 gland with my SJOOW 10/3 wire and it fit perfectly. I have some PG21 glands as well and they also fit the wire, but can be cranked down a little further.

That might be.

The first SJ00W I got was bigger diameter than the second piece. One was from HD, the other from Lowes. I remember being surprised that there was any difference at all (BTW, in case anyone's wondering, I'm sure neither one was SOOW). I ordered larger glands based on the bigger wire.

So I guess it's possible that the smaller SJOOW would have fit the plastic PG19 that came with the enclosure. I really like the SS, so I would still have replaced the plastic. But I think the PG19's are much easier to find than PG21.

 

[passedpawn]

Thanks Andrew that is exactly the info I was looking for. It seems many online vendors are out or only have one left. Many have bags of 10 or more. I did find some on McMaster Carr that will probably work just fine. Thanks again!

John

John, I've still got the plastic PG19 glands that came with the stilldragon enclosure. Come grab them if you want to take them to HD or Lowes and match them up with their wire.

 

[jcav]

I have a stilldragon element housing and used the stock PG19 gland with my SJOOW 10/3 wire and it fit perfectly. I have some PG21 glands as well and they also fit the wire, but can be cranked down a little further.

Thanks masonjax, I was wondering what the difference was. My wire is the 10/3 SJOOW from Ebrew Supply, they had a good deal on it so I bought enough to make two cords. I just checked and the diameter of this particular wire will fit the plastic stock gland that came with my StillDragon enclosures, which is the PG19 that you described, (I think it's 3/4 inch but I'd have to check the measurement). Thanks again for chiming in!

John

 

[jcav]

John, I've still got the plastic PG19 glands that came with the stilldragon enclosure. Come grab them if you want to take them to HD or Lowes and match them up with their wire.

Thanks Andrew, my enclosures came with the plastic ones and I thought it might not fit the wires at first. The plastic ones open up wider than then look and my wire does fit through but there is not a lot of room. I like the idea of using metal ones better, (like on your enclosures) so I might just get the metal ones and replace the plastic ones that came with the enclosures.

John

 

[jcav]

Ok I measured and the diameter of the hole in the StillDragon endcap is 1 inch. The threaded end of the PG19 gland diameter is 7/8 and the nut on the threaded end fills the gap and makes the seal. In case someone else is wondering. I am going to order some stainless ones if I can get my hands on them.

John

 

[chessking]

Still Dragon housing here. Another member here welded the TC ferrule to the keggle. I removed the too-small plastic strain releif that came with it, widened the hole, and used a large SS PG21 gland. Works great. Nice to be able to remove the ripple element so easily for cleaning.

For those of you that have a still dragon housing, in particular the TC cap with the threaded hole for the element. Could the heating element be threaded the other direction? Or are the threads tapered. Ive got a heatstick welded up similar to a hot rod, and I need the cap with the element going the other way. I have emailed Still Dragon with my inquiry and haven't received a reply. Thanks.

 

[passedpawn]

For those of you that have a still dragon housing, in particular the TC cap with the threaded hole for the element. Could the heating element be threaded the other direction? Or are the threads tapered. Ive got a heatstick welded up similar to a hot rod, and I need the cap with the element going the other way. I have emailed Still Dragon with my inquiry and haven't received a reply. Thanks.

No idea, but jcav above will know. He's got all the stuff unassembled, so he could test that pretty easy I think. You could probably get his attention by PM'ing him. Hopefully one of you responds with the answer. I think the element uses straight non-NPT threads, and I would assume you could screw the element in from either side, but I'm about 50% with my assumptions.

 

[jcav]

He did pm me and I replied. The threads do appear to be straight thread (sometimes also called heating element thread I read somewhere), and NOT NPT. The problem is the end cap is not loose and is welded to the metal tube so to turn it around you would not have the benefit of the enclosure protecting the wires. If the end cap was loose and you could clamp it the way you needed it for your particular install, that would be different, but it is fixed to the metal tube and ferrule. Hope this helps.....

John

 

[chessking]

yeah, the problem I have is I am using the tri clover cap in a heat stick that is submerged in the BK, so I need the element threaded from the other side.
Brewers hardware sells one:

[https://www.brewershardware.com/2-Tri-Clover-X-1-NPS-Fitting-TC20F10NPSL.html

Bur the still dragon cap is much more in my price range, but they wont answer my emails.

 

[jcav]

Ok I see, now I understand what you are doing. I would give them a call and see if they will give you a valid answer, I know they are pretty technical and do work with people on custom stuff and builds (especially on the distillery end of it). StillDragon's phone number is (561) 845-8009. I called them with a question about their element enclosures and they were happy to answer me and were great on the phone.

John

 

[Bobby_M]

I can sell you the 2" cap that I have for the Hotrod for $19. Email me.

 

[passedpawn]

I can sell you the 2" cap that I have for the Hotrod for $19. Email me.

Maybe post your email here?

 

[jcav]

If anyone needs it, Bobby's email is [email protected]

 

[chessking]

Ordered the part. Will let you know.

 

[lextasy23]

Just got my aluminum box in, drilled the HLT and box out and installed it - looks perfect. Waiting on the pilot light and I still have to get a cord grip for it, but forward progress!

I was worried about the wall thickness of the box and the low profile threads on the element, but it fits perfect inside.

 

[jcav]

Nice job lextasy23! If you need cord grips and don't mind plastic I have them left over as I bought metal ones. Let me know and I'll send them to you....

John

 

[lextasy23]

Nice job lextasy23! If you need cord grips and don't mind plastic I have them left over as I bought metal ones. Let me know and I'll send them to you....

John

Thanks man. What kind do you have? Pictures?