Should all beers be cold crashed?

[Turfgrass]

do all beer need cold crashing or just certain styles of beer? thanks in advance.

 

[Steveruch]

You don't have to cold crash any beer, it's a matter of personal preference.

 

[RealRayDizzle]

Are you bottling or keg? I agree with Steveruch, it is a matter of preference.
In a way you would be sort of cold crashing if you drink your beer cold. When bottling, once the beer has finished carbonating, I like to put the bottles in the fridge for a few weeks before drinking just to clear them up.
When Kegging I have a 2 fridge setup, with the second fridge acting like a staging area where I carbonate the keg and let it sit in cold to clear up.

 

[archthered]

Like everyone else is saying cold crashing really only makes an aesthetic difference. If you really like clear beer go for it, and you may want to consider gelatin or some other fining, but it's mostly about making it pretty. Our perception of how things look will effect our perception of how they taste, which is why some people swear cold crashing impacts taste, but it is really up to you. I often cold crash lighter colored beers that I make when I know people will be over for a function but that's mostly to show off, and you may want to for the same reason. Cold crashing darker beers makes even less difference since if it's dark enough you can't see the haze anyway. There are some styles that are traditionally cloudy and you shouldn't cold crash but even in those cases it is really about expectation and appearance.

 

[MaxStout]

I'm not worried about beers being cloudy, if that doesn't affect the taste. But I like to cold-crash to drop most of the yeast in a tight cake, so that when racking I don't suck up as much from the bottom (and I get more beer out).

 

[GPP33]

The only beers I cold crash are ones with heavy dry hops, and that’s really just to compact the debris so they don’t end up in my keg. I really don’t find much of a difference in clarity with cold crashing. Cold crashing isn’t magic, it’s just making the beer cold so debris sink. Same thing happens when you put the beers or keg in the fridge. Like I said before, it just helps keep some of the debris out of the serving container.

 

[filthyastronaut]

I would highly recommend not cold crashing unless you have a reliable way to seal your fermenter from oxygen ingress.

 

[Qhrumphf]

I would highly recommend not cold crashing unless you have a reliable way to seal your fermenter from oxygen ingress.

This.

Unless you are under positive CO2 pressure, you will either pull air, or pull a vacuum. Air is safer but bad for beer. Can't think of a single fermenter design (including stainless) where I would be comfortable with the negative pressure pulling a vacuum. In fact I've heard the cringe-inducing tsssst of a combo PRV/anti-vac allowing air in to a sealed cold crashing conical that wasn't under pressure.

With something that can hold pressure, put it under a couple PSI of CO2 before you cold crash. (Alternatively, spund it).

The homebrew trick for doing this without a pressure capable fermenter (ie bucket or carboy) I've seen is to replace an airlock with a balloon towards the end of fermentation. Let the balloon inflate with CO2, so that when you crash that CO2 gets drawn back in instead of air. Done sanitarily, obviously.

 

[EnglishAndy]

My fermenter is airtight so I never cold crash anything because cold side O2 exposure (due to suckback) is far more damaging than any benefit of cold crashing.

I keg when fermentation is complete and chill the keg. A half pint of cloudy beer at the start of the keg doesn't bother me at all.

 

[SEndorf]

I respectfully disagree.
I always cold crash. Easily done with counter pressure either from pressurizing a SS conical, or using a CO2 harvester. Completely oxygen free.

 

[Blazinlow86]

I always cold crash too. Obviously if you don't have the equipment to do it correctly than don't but I can't imagine why anyone would choose to have all the leftover sediment in the bottom of there keg/bottle when given the choice. Cheers

 

[cactusgarrett]

It clearly works for many people. One word of caution on cold crashing (which i've just started educating myself about): if one employs cold crashing, it seems important to ensure that your yeast were healthy prior to and during primary fermentation and that your beer doesn't need any further aging to achieve the desired flavor profile. It seems that cold crashing has the potential to shock the yeast into inactivity. Not that big of a deal if your beer is where you want it to be, flavor-wise, after fermentation and before crashing. But in instances like with lagers where fermentation is done but further maturation is needed, the shock from crashing has the potential to shut down the yeast before it has a chance to clean up any off or undesired flavors.

 

[dmtaylor]

I usually don't cold crash. Maybe that's what's wrong with my beer...

 

[Blazinlow86]

I usually don't cold crash. Maybe that's what's wrong with my beer...

You don't refrigerate all your beer at some point?

 

[Dgallo]

There are some styles you really shouldn’t cold crash prior to being in there final packing vessel; keg, brite, or bottles. Any style susceptible to oxidation. Like IPAs for example. Especially NEIPAS. cold temp increase the ability for the beer to absorb gasses; it’s the same reason you want your beer cold when you hook it up to gas for force carbing. These beers should be transferred at room temps into room temp kegs or bottles. If your kegging then put it on gas and purge out any oxygen then crash. If you’re bottle. Do your best to limit your oxygen contact. Bottle and store warner for 7-10 or until your carb sets. Then cold storage is ideal after that.

 

[Dland]

I always cold crash and age, in kegs, once beer is otherwise finished. These days I usually spund, but otherwise force carbonate once beer has chilled. Slightly shortened dip tube leaves the small remaining amount of sediment behind.

 

[dmtaylor]

You don't refrigerate all your beer at some point?

When I'm ready to drink it. I bottle condition, but my "beer fridge" is always full, of several beers AND of other stuff.

 

[Blazinlow86]

When I'm ready to drink it. I bottle condition, but my "beer fridge" is always full, of several beers AND of other stuff.

So your still cold crashing. Only difference is the sediment left behind is in your serving vessel rather than left behind in the fermentor. cheers

 

[Dgallo]

So your still cold crashing. Only difference is the sediment left behind is in your serving vessel rather than left behind in the fermentor. cheers

No. Cold crashing is a practice prior to setting the carb in the beer. An there is another difference. This person also has decreased the risk of oxygen absorption. Unless you are using a closed system or at the very least purging your vessel with Co2, cold crashing increases your risk for oxygen exposure

 

[Blazinlow86]

No. Cold crashing is a practice prior to setting the carb in the beer. An there is another difference. This person also has decreased the risk of oxygen absorption. Unless you are using a closed system or at the very least purging your vessel with Co2, cold crashing increases your risk for oxygen exposure

What's the difference between crashing before carbing vs after carbing? I've got zero experience bottle conditioning. Does the sediment not fall to the bottom of a carbed bottle the same as it does a carbed keg. Prior to switching to the unitank I used to end up with some sediment in the bottom of my kegs when I rushed a batch. It was terrible as the minute you moved the keg it would stir it all up and make the beer cloudy. I guess if for some odd reason you choose to leave the fermentor open while crashing you might pick up oxygen but I can't see any reason you would choose to do it that way. Seems more likely to pick up oxegen transferring from the fermentor to bottle then during the cold crash. Cheers

 

[Dgallo]

What's the difference between crashing before carbing vs after carbing? I've got zero experience bottle conditioning. Does the sediment not fall to the bottom of a carbed bottle the same as it does a carbed keg. Prior to switching to the unitank I used to end up with some sediment in the bottom of my kegs when I rushed a batch. It was terrible as the minute you moved the keg it would stir it all up and make the beer cloudy. I guess if for some odd reason you choose to leave the fermentor open while crashing you might pick up oxygen but I can't see any reason you would choose to do it that way. Seems more likely to pick up oxegen transferring from the fermentor to bottle then during the cold crash. Cheers

No. The pre carb/carb has nothing to do with sediment or clarity. I was only speaking on oxygen exposure, which my arguement geared around.

As the beer in your fermenter cools it creates negative pressure, a vacuum. This suck in air through the air lock until it is equalized; oxygen gets in. Hence why I also stated “unless you have a closed system”. so If you have a stainless fermenter or a thicker gauge food grade plastic fermenter that can handle the change of pressure and if you have the the ability to purge your fermenters with c02 then my comment doesn’t pertain to you, which it wouldn’t since you stated you have a unitank.

Now why I replied to your comment in the first place is because you stated that the person is still cold crashing by storing it cold after they bottle but this is not considered cold crashing. The process of coldcrashing happens prior to the beer being carbed/placed in its final serving vessel. They are similar don’t get me wrong But I was just clearing up for anyone reading. Then I just continued with what I had to say for people who may not have the same quality of homebrewing equipment as you or myself. Giving them the best option. Because if they don’t have the ability to coldcrash in a completely closed vessel, it would be better For them to fine with an alternative method like using whirfloc, gelatin, and a high flocculating yeast strain.

 

[Blazinlow86]

No. The pre carb/carb has nothing to do with sediment or clarity. I was only speaking on oxygen exposure, which my arguement geared around.

As the beer in your fermenter cools it creates negative pressure, a vacuum. This suck in air through the air lock until it is equalized; oxygen gets in. Hence why I also stated “unless you have a closed system”. so If you have a stainless fermenter or a thicker gauge food grade plastic fermenter that can handle the change of pressure and if you have the the ability to purge your fermenters with c02 then my comment doesn’t pertain to you, which it wouldn’t since you stated you have a unitank.

Now why I replied to your comment in the first place is because you stated that the person is still cold crashing by storing it cold after they bottle but this is not considered cold crashing. The process of coldcrashing happens prior to the beer being carbed/placed in its final serving vessel. They are similar don’t get me wrong But I was just clearing up for anyone reading. Then I just continued with what I had to say for people who may not have the same quality of homebrewing equipment as you or myself. Giving them the best option. Because if they don’t have the ability to coldcrash in a completely closed vessel, it would be better For them to fine with an alternative method like using whirfloc, gelatin, and a high flocculating yeast strain.

I agree with your point about crashing in a open fermentor but still can't see why anyone would do it that way purposely unless there using a bucket that can't be sealed up with gas I guess. My point was more that unless your shaking up a bottle of beer prior to pouring rather than gently pouring your still cold crashing your beer imo. Cold crashing to me is chilling the beer which causes it to clear/drop out regardless of which vessel you choose to do it in. I think a better way to say it would be "I don't cold crash in the fermentor but in the bottle" just as kegging people say they prefer to crash in the keg. In the end it's just semantics lol. Cheers

 

[Qhrumphf]

I agree with your point about crashing in a open fermentor but still can't see why anyone would do it that way purposely unless there using a bucket that can't be sealed up with gas I guess. My point was more that unless your shaking up a bottle of beer prior to pouring rather than gently pouring your still cold crashing your beer imo. Cold crashing to me is chilling the beer which causes it to clear/drop out regardless of which vessel you choose to do it in. I think a better way to say it would be "I don't cold crash in the fermentor but in the bottle" just as kegging people say they prefer to crash in the keg. In the end it's just semantics lol. Cheers

A bucket or carboy and simple airlock or blowoff is the problem, which is like 95% of homebrewers.

 

[Blazinlow86]

A bucket or carboy and simple airlock or blowoff is the problem, which is like 95% of homebrewers.

True although a balloon is literally the only thing holding a person back from crashing in the carboy. No way I'd be willing to deal with all the negatives for the cost of a balloon. Cheers

 

[Qhrumphf]

True although a balloon is literally the only thing holding a person back from crashing in the carboy. No way I'd be willing to deal with all the negatives for the cost of a balloon. Cheers

Yep, but sadly not as utilized as it should be.

 

[applescrap]

This.

Unless you are under positive CO2 pressure, you will either pull air, or pull a vacuum. Air is safer but bad for beer. Can't think of a single fermenter design (including stainless) where I would be comfortable with the negative pressure pulling a vacuum. In fact I've heard the cringe-inducing tsssst of a combo PRV/anti-vac allowing air in to a sealed cold crashing conical that wasn't under pressure.

With something that can hold pressure, put it under a couple PSI of CO2 before you cold crash. (Alternatively, spund it).

The homebrew trick for doing this without a pressure capable fermenter (ie bucket or carboy) I've seen is to replace an airlock with a balloon towards the end of fermentation. Let the balloon inflate with CO2, so that when you crash that CO2 gets drawn back in instead of air. Done sanitarily, obviously.

Thanks, that balloon idea seems a good option for the average homebrewer like me.

 

[applescrap]

If I am out and want to carb a beer and drink it warm after 8 days ferment, on a Sunday watching football then no crash. Other times I do. Depends on what is on tap, in pipeline, etc. Clarifying and refining the beer seems a mark of the quality enthusiast. I went from not caring at all to appreciating and understanding a more professional practice. That doesnt mean there is always time or care for me. I brew, I drink, I brew. Real profound ehh, lol

Some beers sure, dont crash. Like a wheat beer. Or maybe crash some and dont crash some. See which you like better.

 

[Blazinlow86]

I've used a solid stopper on a glass carboy at least 25 times and those were all 15 gallon batches into 3 carboys. So more like 75 times. I've never had a issue. Obviously there's a small vaccum when the stoppers removed but I always only removed it IMMEDIATELY at racking. Sure some oxegen will be picked up but within a few minutes of opening the carboy I'm in the keg purged with c02. Those same brews which are generally on the hoppy side sometimes sit for month's before being tapped with no I'll effects. Of course if your a generally unlucky person the carboy could break so try it at your own risk. Cheers