Self closing spring in Intertap faucets not doing a good job at self closing/sticking

[TkmLinus]

Hope everyone is having a wonderful start of the week. I was wondering if anyone has had any issue with the spring in Intertap faucets not "self-closing" the faucet. I have 2 with springs and they will stick open. When closing I can feel a little assist from the spring, but it won't spring closed on its own. The faucet I run cider through is quite bad and needs to be pushed closed, otherwise it would stick in the open position as if there is no spring at all. The other one I run beer through is just starting to stick. Since it is such a simple system I am not too sure what to do. I do run BLC after every 2-3 kegs. Any suggestions? Am I missing something obvious? (probably!). TIA!

 

[day_trippr]

This is the first I've read of a user unhappy with the return springs. I use them on my five Perlick (525SS) faucets and they solved the inadvertent handle bumps, the keezer lid raising/closing handle inertia thing, and the inexperienced guest "I thought they were self closing" syndrome

I would do a full teardown and cleaning, reassemble and lubricate where needed, and make sure the bonnets aren't overtightened...

Cheers!

 

[Jaybird]

This is the first I've read of a user unhappy with the return springs. I use them on my five Perlick (525SS) faucets and they solved the inadvertent handle bumps, the keezer lid raising/closing handle inertia thing, and the inexperienced guest "I thought they were self closing" syndrome

I would do a full teardown and cleaning, reassemble and lubricate where needed, and make sure the bonnets aren't overtightened...

Cheers!

Exactly! I LOVE mine as well. Tear em down and clean them and make sure the spring is in the correct way and the bonnets aren't super tight. Something doesn't seem right. I have 9 of them on my system and all of them have been MONEY!

Cheers
Jay

 

[TkmLinus]

This is the first I've read of a user unhappy with the return springs. I use them on my five Perlick (525SS) faucets and they solved the inadvertent handle bumps, the keezer lid raising/closing handle inertia thing, and the inexperienced guest "I thought they were self closing" syndrome

I would do a full teardown and cleaning, reassemble and lubricate where needed, and make sure the bonnets aren't overtightened...

Cheers!

Thanks for the reply! Not that I'm unhappy, they just aren't working I have them for all the reasons you mentioned(I got springs on all my faucets after SO left one dripping one night and drained a keg on the back porch!)

Forgive my ignorance, but how and where and with what does one lubricate the faucet? I will check the bonnets as well, maybe I overtightened last time I took the faucets apart.

Thanks!

 

[TkmLinus]

Exactly! I LOVE mine as well. Tear em down and clean them and make sure the spring is in the correct way and the bonnets aren't super tight. Something doesn't seem right. I have 9 of them on my system and all of them have been MONEY!

Cheers
Jay

Sounds like it is the bonnets, if 2 of 2 forum members say it, I bet that's the case! Thanks!

 

[Beekeeper]

Related question, not to derail the OP, who seems to have received satisfactory responses, but really on point with these springs.


I purchased some of these Intertap springs for use in my Perlicks, and they work wonderfully.
But at the same time I purchased this Intertap SS faucet and the springs DO.NOT.FIT.
https://www.howdybrewer.com/products/intertap-stainless-steel-faucet?variant=42498449539288Well, they do FIT, but fully compressed, and leave absolutely no room at all to open the tap.
Are they only for use with certain models of Intertap spouts? I should have ordered another Perlick, but I'm a real cheapskate.

 

[day_trippr]

fwiw, when the springs first hit the market there was some noise that the Intertap faucet shuttles required Intertap shanks - or at least that the shanks had to have enough depth carved into them to accommodate the springs. Perls don't have shuttles so you can use any shank...

Cheers!

 

[Beekeeper]

...the Intertap faucet shuttles required Intertap shanks

Thanks for that info. I doubt I'm investing any more toward that, and that $30 Intertap spout will just age out in the parts bin.

 

[day_trippr]

how and where and with what does one lubricate the faucet?

I can only speak to Perlick faucets which use a pair of O-rings to capture the faucet lever pivot ball. I apply the thinnest film of silicone lube to those two O-rings whenever I happen to do a cleaning and tune-up.


This image from Kegland shows an 8-piece(!) rebuild kit for an Intertap non-FC faucet, and I would say the equivalent to "my" two O-rings on the pivot ball would be item 6 flagged in two places. I would be inclined to put a film of lube on those or at least the pivot ball itself and let it transfer the film...

 

[scrap iron]

Related question, not to derail the OP, who seems to have received satisfactory responses, but really on point with these springs.


I purchased some of these Intertap springs for use in my Perlicks, and they work wonderfully.
But at the same time I purchased this Intertap SS faucet and the springs DO.NOT.FIT.
https://www.howdybrewer.com/products/intertap-stainless-steel-faucet?variant=42498449539288Well, they do FIT, but fully compressed, and leave absolutely no room at all to open the tap.
Are they only for use with certain models of Intertap spouts? I should have ordered another Perlick, but I'm a real cheapskate.

What day tripper said above is true. I have Intertaps and like them. I bought mine from Ritebrew, after reading up on them, someone posted they need shanks to fit the springs. You can buy the Intertap shanks, but they are pricey. I bought Krome brand shanks at Ritebrew after doing some research at about half the price. They work fine with the spring installed using the Intertap faucets. I really like the ball lock post attachment I bought along with the taps it makes bottling from the keg easier. I just prop open the tap with a small cup to overcome the spring while bottling.

 

[franknbeans]

The bonnet nut on top is what controls the resistance on that spring.. it took me a few times to figure it out with mine after I put them in service. I'll tighten it until it just starts to effect the return of the shuttle.

*I bought intertap shanks as they are more recessed for the spring*

As far as lube goes, the gaskets and orings all get the food-grade keg lube. The stainless parts shouldn't need it. I break mine down after each keg (I don't blow through them that fast lately). For what it's worth, after each pour I will shoot some Star San up into the spout to rinse any drippings and keep it from getting sticky and put one of those spout covers on. Always a clean pour and nothing to gum it up.

 

[odie]

it's an issue of the shanks. how much space behind the faucet. there are numerous makers of shanks and faucets. all similar but subtle differences. And most all interchangeable.

It's about the length of the spring and how far into the shank does it seat. I have one tap that requires 2 springs stacked for it to "snap closed" when you release the handle.

Some long shanks are "solid" with a small beer hole. and others are wide open and the spring just goes way in...thus a double stacked spring is needed.

 

[Broken Crow]

I do run BLC after every 2-3 kegs.

In my own experience, cider 'gums up' faster than beer, and even beers seem to gum up, sometimes near the end of a keg before it's even empty, but I'll wait..
I've got a 2L pop-bottle with the kegland carb-caps and tee on it that I use to at least rinse the line and tap between kegs when replacing with the same brew.... makes it easy, I just plug that into the kegs disconnects and run hot water through, or for cleaning, PBW and leave it sit, then run more to rinse. Maybe a more frequent cleaning or even rinse?

 

[TkmLinus]

I can only speak to Perlick faucets which use a pair of O-rings to capture the faucet lever pivot ball. I apply the thinnest film of silicone lube to those two O-rings whenever I happen to do a cleaning and tune-up.


This image from Kegland shows an 8-piece(!) rebuild kit for an Intertap non-FC faucet, and I would say the equivalent to "my" two O-rings on the pivot ball would be item 6 flagged in two places. I would be inclined to put a film of lube on those or at least the pivot ball itself and let it transfer the film...

View attachment 811473

Quick update, I cleaned the faucet, put a thin layer of lube on the pivot ball, and loosened up the bonnet. I have no clue how it got so tight. Anyways your advice did the trick and the springs are working as they should, slamming the tap shut with that satisfying thud each time you quit pouring. Thanks day_trippr!

 

[day_trippr]

Cheers!