Sanke coupler for fermentation

[Charlieatthedisco]

Picked up a sanke from a buddy for free! Have a couple sanke couplers and did some research but can't wrap my head around how to configure the coupler so I can use this sanke as a fermenter? What parts would I need besides the coupler and so on? I read a pressure valve is needed but which one?

Thanks for the help


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[acidrain]

Most of us using Sankes use either custom made, or store bought spunding valve assemblies that clamp onto a naked Sanke neck.
Not sure what size theaded posts on the Sanke coupler you have... you'll have to figure all that out, but basically you would put a pressure relief valve at the gas-in post, and use the beer-out post for draining/transferring.
In addition, I like to use a T at the gas-in, so I can add Co2 for complete transfer.
One problem is you don't want your spear going all the way to the bottom unless you like hops/yeast trub in your finished beer.

 

[acidrain]

The pressure relief valve I use looks like this: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B007GDY3CU/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

 

[Charlieatthedisco]

Most of us using Sankes use either custom made, or store bought spunding valve assemblies that clamp onto a naked Sanke neck.
Not sure what size theaded posts on the Sanke coupler you have... you'll have to figure all that out, but basically you would put a pressure relief valve at the gas-in post, and use the beer-out post for draining/transferring.
In addition, I like to use a T at the gas-in, so I can add Co2 for complete transfer.
One problem is you don't want your spear going all the way to the bottom unless you like hops/yeast trub in your finished beer.

Thanks for this. Would I have to remove the gas check valve? How would I go about doing so if needed?


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[Charlieatthedisco]

And the pressure relief valve does exactly what it says right? So instead of A air lock the valve does the work?


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[acidrain]

I'm not familiar with your coupler... where is the gas check valve? Normally Sanke couplers don't have a check valve... just a gas-in and a beer-out.

Do you mean remove the ball and spear? If so, yes... if you are going the route we did with a triclover cap built into a spunding valve. it's easy. There are tutorials on youtube to remove the spear.
Building the spunding valve takes some skills. I think Bobby M was working on one for sale.

The pressure relief is adjustable from just open all the time to opening at a set pressure. If you want to relieve the pressure, just open it and dump the gas. Yes, this will take the place of an air-lock.

 

[ChrisfromAbby]

>Normally Sanke couplers don't have a check valve... just a gas-in and a beer-out.<

Sorry, but this is incorrect. Each side has a check valve that uses a small plastic ball and either a rubber or plastic fitting to seat against. They remove easily with a pair of tweezers. This needs to be done if you are reversing the flow from the normal set-up in any way (I.E>. pressurizing, or flushing with CO2 or using a pump to fill your kegs).

Chris

 

[acidrain]

>Normally Sanke couplers don't have a check valve... just a gas-in and a beer-out.<

Sorry, but this is incorrect. Each side has a check valve that uses a small plastic ball and either a rubber or plastic fitting to seat against. They remove easily with a pair of tweezers. This needs to be done if you are reversing the flow from the normal set-up in any way (I.E>. pressurizing, or flushing with CO2 or using a pump to fill your kegs).

Chris

Makes sense. I stand corrected.

 

[RoundKid]

I ferment in unmodified sankey kegs. You take the check valves out of the tap and are good to go. You don't have to have a pressure release valve, you can just use a hose and blow off bucket just like a carboy.


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[crane]

I pressure ferment in an unmodified sanke keg. I use a standard coupler with the check valve removed from the gas in side. I also pressure ferment in corny kegs when I only do a 5 gallon batch and use the sanke for 10 gallon batches. I bought one of the corny keg post adapter kits for the sanke coupler so I can use the same spunding valve for both setups. You don't have to cut the bottom of your dip tube. When I transfer to my serving kegs I just dump the first bit into a bucket until it runs clean then do the transfer. I don't have problems with yeast sediment in my beer that way

 

[maierhof]

I built a custom solution so that I can use it on any of my sankes. I have not had the luxury of using it to pressure ferment due to life getting in the way. (I am still down in mexico taking care of my mom, etc... When I get home I am finally doing a few batches) but it works like a charm so far....

Here is a pic or two for you:

 

[crane]

Here is a pic of my setup. The spunding valve hangs from a hook in my fermentation chamber and connects to the coupler with a hose. Not sure why the pic is upside down.

 

[RocketBrewer]

You can take the spear out and just use a stopper (#11 I believe) and air lock. The problem with fermenting in kegs is they can be very hard to keep clean. you must check very carefully with an inspection mirror that will fit through the neck.

 

[Charlieatthedisco]

Are those qd's on the coupler? Good idea and I like the ball lock portion also. I have a bunch of this stuff
At home alteady


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[crane]

Are those qd's on the coupler? Good idea and I like the ball lock portion also. I have a bunch of this stuff
At home alteady


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It's a ball lock conversion kit. A number of online home brew shops sell them along with amazon.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C30F75I/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20