S-shaped vs 3-piece airlock

[Dougan]

It seems like in most pictures I see, everybody is using the 3 piece airlock, which is the only kind my LHBS had for the longest time. However, I like the S-shaped ones.

They are cheaper, less pieces to lose (lost piece of a 3-piece inside a primary one time) and, saving the best for last, they eliminate the concern for suckback.

So why does everybody have the 3-piece if they're more expensive and less useful? Is it because they are easier to clean? The only benefit I can imagine is that if you get wort in your airlock it's not a problem w/ the 3-piece.

Just curious.

 

[Brule]

I'm used to the 3 piece and am just used to it. They're easy to clean and seem to handle even very vigorous fermentation. I do have an S-shaped one to try on my next secondary, was told it was easier to see action in, but I too am interested in any real advantage one way or the other.

 

[CaptainSwiller]

Advantages? Although I'm new to brewing I have some expertise in this area. The S airlock is more amusing to watch. It's that simple.

 

[llazy_llama]

I have both types, and they both do the exact same job. I have noticed that the 3-piece airlocks tend to evaporate quicker, so I guess the S-type airlocks save a bit of money in filler, although not what I would consider a significant amount.

I'm not sure why one is more expensive than the other at your LHBS. Austin Homebrew, Midwest Supplies, and MoreBeer all have both types for pretty much the same price. The biggest discrepancy is at Midwest where one is a whopping $0.25 more.

 

[luvmy40]

Ditto (see first reply)

The three piece airlocks can handle much more vigorous action and at $.99 each they certainly won't break the bank.
I do use the S-locks on my secondaries if all of my others are in use. I use an S-lock on my starter flasks also(yes, I know I don't need a lock on them but I'm just contrary!).

WOW! Two posts in the time it took me to type this!

 

[ChshreCat]

I have perfectly valid reasons why I use 3-piece airlocks rather than the s-shaped ones.

They're what I've always used.

And I fear change.

but seriously. They work so I keep using 'em.

 

[mmb]

I use the three piece airlock if there is a chance of blowoff. The S lock is a pain in the rear to clean if it gets anything in it.

S-locks work great for secondary and long term aging or conditioning.

 

[KYB]

I have perfectly valid reasons why I use 3-piece airlocks rather than the s-shaped ones.

They're what I've always used.

And I fear change.

but seriously. They work so I keep using 'em.

Same, except the other way around.

I use the three piece airlock if there is a chance of blowoff. The S lock is a pain in the rear to clean if it gets anything in it.

S-locks work great for secondary and long term aging or conditioning.

I always just put a blowoff tube for the first 3-5 days or so, then switch to the airlock.

I like it being one piece too I gues.

 

[Acumen]

Lagers need the S when first bringing it down to temp.

I have a bunch of each, like em both.

 

[kinison_fan]

I have and use both, but see the s-type less and less in HB stores (my s-type are probably 10+ years old).
I agree, the 3-piece are easier to clean.

 

[llazy_llama]

I use an S-lock on my starter flasks also(yes, I know I don't need a lock on them but I'm just contrary!)

It's not that you don't need an airlock on your starter, it's that using an airlock on your starter is actually detrimental. As much fun as it is to watch the pretty bubbles, you're hurting the yeast in doing so.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f14/stop-putting-airlocks-your-starters-104529/

 

[Sigafoos]

Weird, I only have S ones, because I think that's all my LHBS stocks. They probably have 3 piece ones somewhere, possibly even right next to the S', but the S works for me, so I just keep picking them up.

 

[mmb]

I always just put a blowoff tube for the first 3-5 days or so, then switch to the airlock.

I like it being one piece too I gues.

Slip a 1/2" ID tube over the center post of of the three piece and you have your blowoff tube. Then pop the tube off and put the bubbler back on and you have an airlock.

Remove the little X of plastic at the bottom of the airlock though. That will get gummed up and give you a blockage.

 

[conpewter]

Hmm, so S airlocks don't have suckback? I may have to buy some. I usually put my primary in the temp controlled freezer at 70 or so, and wait for it to get down to temp (usually 61-62). This of course causes suckback on the airlock. Usually only takes 1-2 hours. I have been putting a sanitized empty airlock on, but an S airlock might do the trick.

 

[mmb]

Hmm, so S airlocks don't have suckback? I may have to buy some. I usually put my primary in the temp controlled freezer at 70 or so, and wait for it to get down to temp (usually 61-62). This of course causes suckback on the airlock. Usually only takes 1-2 hours. I have been putting a sanitized empty airlock on, but an S airlock might do the trick.

Depending on the amount of fluid you put in it, nope.

 

[SpanishCastleAle]

As long as they're not over-filled the S-type just bubble in reverse when the fermenter pulls vacuum. I have both but for some reason I usually reach for the 3-pc. I dunno why though...I just don't give it much thought and grab the first one I see. Anymore I just use a blow-off tube at the beginning of fermentation as a matter of course...it's much easier for me to RDW when over-flowing airlocks/etc. are taken out of the equation.

If I did secondary in carboys I'd use the S-type for that but I never secondary in carboys. And I stopped using them on starters for fear of an HBT lynching.

 

[conpewter]

I wish I could find a definitive way to test airlock vs. aluminum foil on a starter. I really don't think you get much gas exchange with the foil, and even if you did there is already a crapton of oxygen in the flask when you start (200,000 ppm), and doesn't get expelled like a normal fermentation because of the stir-plate action.

 

[AJ_in_HD]

both locks cost the same where I picked them up.

I have 3 piece and S-shaped ones and after having krausen back up into my 3piece...that would have been much more difficult to clean on the S shape.

So like most here...I go with 3 piece for primary...easy to clean and less worry.

though the S-shape just is more aesthetically pleasing...it's not worth the potential trouble to clean. I keep it for use as a backup though.

 

[Tsuyako]

I like the three piece due to the fact that I put an S-type into my secondary and then tried to pick it up. The whole darn thing emptied into my beer! Anyway, not sure if that is normal or not but I don't like the feeling of having be careful AFTER I put the airlock.

 

[Reno_eNVy]

I've been using the 3-piece for a while now but when I first started I used the S-shape.... I really miss it. Next time I go to the LHBS I've going to grab a couple. I miss the action and that soothing "blub lub lub lub" sound

 

[seanhuber]

I use 3 piece for primary and S-shape for secondary. I don't think an S-shape could handle this kind of action:

 

[springer]

Lagers need the S when first bringing it down to temp.

I have a bunch of each, like em both.

Hmm, so S airlocks don't have suckback? I may have to buy some. I usually put my primary in the temp controlled freezer at 70 or so, and wait for it to get down to temp (usually 61-62). This of course causes suckback on the airlock. Usually only takes 1-2 hours. I have been putting a sanitized empty airlock on, but an S airlock might do the trick.

Don't put an airlock on when you bring the temps down. I just use a piece of tin foil on the carboy till my temp is reached zero chance of suck back. Then I go for the 3 piece airlock

 

[craigd]

The S-shaped ones are tough to clean. That's my only reason...

 

[steelerguy]

Don't put an airlock on when you bring the temps down. I just use a piece of tin foil on the carboy till my temp is reached zero chance of suck back. Then I go for the 3 piece airlock

But if you can take care of it in a single step by just putting a S type airlock on...why not?

I think the S type are more fun to watch for someone who has not seen fermenting beer before and handy if you are going to have temperature changes. If the krausen invades it though during an exceptionally active fermentation and you don't catch it withint a few hours, the crap can dry in there and it is then pretty much impossible to clean.

The 3 piece are nice because you can use it with some hose for a blowoff tube and then convert it to normal use later if you want. Plus it is just so easy to clean.

 

[springer]

But if you can take care of it in a single step by just putting a S type airlock on...why not?

cause I don't own one?

 

[Hang Glider]

http://www.northernbrewer.com/pics/fullsize/SilStopperV.jpg

seen these?
silicone stopper, holes thru it, top is a "flap" to allow CO2 to escape...
Picked one up, they work great, so now I have 3 types to pick from.

as far as cleaning them... use a blow off first! then airlocks.... no cleaning necessary. just sanitize.

 

[khiddy]

Look great, but they're out of stock for these both at Northern Brewer and Midwest, and I haven't found them on BMW.

 

[Kungpaodog]

I prefer to use the ear canal of a virgin filled with unicorn tears. They are a little pricey, but work perfectly.

 

[Dougan]

Wow, looks like I'm not the only one with an opinion here!

Yeah, the 3-piece are like two dollars at my LHBS if I recalled and the S-shaped are only 1. Maybe I remember wrong... I use a blowoff on all my primaries anyway so I'll probably just stick with the S. Thanks for the input, everyone.

 

[Coastarine]

I have a couple of each, but in the process of trying to figure out which was better for me I realized that airlocks don't work for me, I use a blowoff tube for every beer in primary and for the few that get a secondary, I use plastic wrap and a rubber band.