Rural living help: Removing tumble weeds from the dirt maintenance

[cannman]

Wife and I are looking to buy into a larger home and found a wonderful property no more than 10 minutes away.

Its on 1 and 1/4 acres, previous owner installed horse keeping stalls, animal sheds, etc but the property hasn't been lived on for months and there are tumbleweeds growing on the property EVERYWHERE. Nasty thorny mofos...


How do we restore the dirt and get rid of these suckers? It's a bit much to do by hand and tool. ATV and a hoe attachment? 4 wheel drive and attachment? I rented a property once where the landlord drove rebar into railroad ties and chained that to his hitch, opened up a beer, dropped it into the cup holder, and spun that baby around the yard. IT WORKED.

If ATV, what's a good work horse model?

Thanks!

 

[ChelisHubby]

my first thought is to get some Round up and give those rascals a couple of drinks a day or two, then wait 2 weeks or so and use the vehicle or tool of choice to remove. Hell if the railroad ties and beer works it looks like a nessity to brew and drink, I think it is a win win situation.

 

[cannman]

Eeks sounds like I would poison the whole yard... I have kids and pets

 

[madscientist451]

If you don't want to use chemicals, I'd start digging them out by hand. If you just break the top part off, they'll just grow back. Do 5-10 a day and after a few weeks they start looking less numerous. Don't be afraid of roundup, its used on lots of food crops already. If it was dangerous, you'd already be dead.

 

[MaxStout]

Rent one of these. It'll munch through the weeds and brush.

 

[invictusbrew]

There are a few different ways that you could handle them depending on how big they've grown, density, property location (in regards to buildings and other properties), etc etc.

If they are pretty young and small you can get away with killing them using vinegar, if they are medium size you will be better off with an herbicide, and if they are really full, you might have to mow them down first and then spray the herbicide. Either way, once they are dried up and dead you can either drag them (the rail road ties idea is pretty good as it's nice and heavy and likely pulled them with no problems), or get yourself a pitchfork and start pulling them up with that.

Then, depending on location, you can either set up a burn date with local jurisdiction (city/county) or call for pickup to get them off your land. Then it's just a matter of figuring out what you want to do with that land (grass, crops, etc) and keep up on maintenance accordingly.

 

[cannman]

There are a few different ways that you could handle them depending on how big they've grown, density, property location (in regards to buildings and other properties), etc etc.



If they are pretty young and small you can get away with killing them using vinegar, if they are medium size you will be better off with an herbicide, and if they are really full, you might have to mow them down first and then spray the herbicide. Either way, once they are dried up and dead you can either drag them (the rail road ties idea is pretty good as it's nice and heavy and likely pulled them with no problems), or get yourself a pitchfork and start pulling them up with that.



Then, depending on location, you can either set up a burn date with local jurisdiction (city/county) or call for pickup to get them off your land. Then it's just a matter of figuring out what you want to do with that land (grass, crops, etc) and keep up on maintenance accordingly.

Excellent info!

My concern with mowing are the seeds the weeds drop so pitch fork sound like the right idea... But over an acre, might get old real fast keeping up with it.

 

[truvr]

Fire. Those bastards deserve to burn in the fiery depths of hell. I've never been able to kill them with roundup. My current maintenance plan involves a 14 year old and a pair of leather gloves.

 

[lump42]

I would contact your local UC extension office. They should be able to give the current control recommendations based on research. It may be better to get information from a trained professional. No offense to the others but I don't think there is much tumbleweed in Minnesota or Pennsylvania.

http://ceinyo-mono.ucanr.edu/

Dustin Blakey
Title: County Director / Farm Advisor
Address:
Cooperative Extension Inyo-Mono Counties
207 West South Street
Bishop, CA 93514
Phone: (760) 873-7854
Fax: (760) 873-7314
Email: [email protected]

 

[TheDudeLebowski]

Just sayin'

http://throwflame.com/

 

[Paps]

Brush hog/tractor.

 

[meatcleaver]

compact tractor, a good chain & a helper. pull em out 1 by 1.
or...pruning shears. lop em off at ground level & poison the stumps/stobs individually

 

[meatcleaver]

Brush hog/tractor.

I disagree. if it's thorns you do NOT want to shred em. a million scattered thorns = a million flat tires

 

[gratus fermentatio]

Real tumbleweeds break off pretty easily when they dry out, the wind is often all it takes to break the stem. You can use almost any method to remove them when dry; tractor with a blade, scoop or drag will do it. We used to just crunch 'em, pile 'em & burn 'em. They burn really hot & fast due to all the air/space between all those little branches. The leftover ash can be composted or sprinkled around the yard as a soil amendment.

If they're still green, I'd hit 'em with herbicide & then scrape, but it sounds like you want to avoid chemicals. You could just burn 'em without scraping when they dry, but like I said, they burn real hot & real fast; you'll have to be REALLY careful so the fire doesn't get away from you & burn something you don't want to burn, like a fence or a house; or start a brushfire.

Tumbleweeds are always an ongoing process to control as more of them blow in/through every year. As they tumble, seeds are spread, that's why there are often miles & miles of tumbleweeds out on the range. Even with chemicals, it's an ongoing process to control them. Best way is to get a jump on them in the spring, while they're small, green & tender. Hit 'em with Roundup & Surflan; Roundup is a non-selective contact herbicide, Surflan is a preemergent herbicide. Surflan prevents seed from sprouting.

If you don't want to use chemicals, get a jump on them in spring with a propane brush burner. Might take more time & more work, but it'll be chemical free & cheaper.
Regards, GF.

 

[sandyeggoxj]

Just mow them down. They have millions of seeds that are already put there. Once everything is gone keep the dirt sprayed with a pre-emergent for a few years. That should keep it clear. Horses will keep moat things mowed down or trampled down.

When the tumbleweeds, actually a Russian thistle, start growing again it will look like grass. You'll want to keep them at 2-3" or less if you want to get a handle on them eventually.

 

[cannman]

Thanks for all the info. When I hear to mow the yard, I'm worried about having these (see attached).
And you are right they are already there.
If I mow, how effective would doing a round leaf mulching with a leaf blower that sucks and mulches be? Is there a better way?

View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1441473364.321752.jpg

 

[sandyeggoxj]

At least you have an advantage that getting rid of tumbleweed is easier than getting rid of cheatgrass (bromus tectorum)!!!

The mulching might work. The seed are practically impervious to fire so that won't help get rid of the seeds. You will probably need to spend a couple years of keeping the area pure dirt until all of the seed are germinated and then killed as plants. But with a little maintenance it won't be too bad. Use lots of pre-emergent on the places you want to keep straight dirt and then let the suckers grow in the other places. When they get to be about 2" tall grind them up with a weedwacker or mulcher or something. Then that seed will be used up and you don't have to worry about them spreading seed at 2" tall.

 

[cannman]

At least you have an advantage that getting rid of tumbleweed is easier than getting rid of cheatgrass (bromus tectorum)!!!

You will probably need to spend a couple years of keeping the area pure dirt until all of the seed are germinated and then killed as plants.

We had that plan where we know now, called them "Fox tails." They would get stuck in our pets skin and they'd be miserable... Oddly they just never came back one year.

I'm sorta resigned to the multi year plan... But I see how that can work. Thanks for the help.

 

[Zuljin]

Mow them and keep them mowed. They will die out if they they can't grow into bushes.

Encourage grass or another ground cover to grow. Even when the tumbleweeds try to come back close to the ground, a good ground cover will out compete them for light, space, water and nutrients.

Amend the soil with organic fertilizers and biological stimulants. Tumbleweeds don't grow well in good soil.

 

[gratus fermentatio]

Thanks for all the info. When I hear to mow the yard, I'm worried about having these (see attached).
And you are right they are already there.
If I mow, how effective would doing a round leaf mulching with a leaf blower that sucks and mulches be? Is there a better way?

View attachment 301231

Those aren't part of tumbleweeds, those are from Puncture vine, AKA "Goatheads." One of the nastiest plants known to man or beast. They can indeed puncture bicycle tires. They stick in your car tires, the soles of your shoes, your dog's paws, etc...

And a new plant can sprout & grow from each of those goat head shaped thorns. You'll need to remove those plants & apply a preemergent herbicide to keep those remaining thorns from germinating. Hit the young plants with Roundup in spring, or hit them with the brush burner. It's going to take several years before you stop seeing them in your tires, shoes, feet, etc...
Those goatheads can lay there for a couple years & still stay sharp & viable. Here's a few pics of tumbleweed, 1st the young, green plant, followed by the dry adult plant. I've also posted a pic of puncturevine so you can see the difference.

Tumbleweeds can grow up to 6 feet tall, and will be easily blown by the wind once the central stalk is detached from the ground, they roll, or "tumble" across the ground, hence the name. Puncturevine, lays flat to the ground & grows more like a groundcover. I've seen it spread up to 3ft from the central root. Those goathead thorns actually start out soft, green & pliable, but once they harden up, it's pain city.
Hope this helps. Regards, GF.

 

[cannman]

Those aren't part of tumbleweeds, those are from Puncture vine, AKA "Goatheads." One of the nastiest plants known to man or beast. They can indeed puncture bicycle tires. They stick in your car tires, the soles of your shoes, your dog's paws, etc...

And a new plant can sprout & grow from each of those goat head shaped thorns. You'll need to remove those plants & apply a preemergent herbicide to keep those remaining thorns from germinating. Hit the young plants with Roundup in spring, or hit them with the brush burner. It's going to take several years before you stop seeing them in your tires, shoes, feet, etc...
Those goatheads can lay there for a couple years & still stay sharp & viable. Here's a few pics of tumbleweed, 1st the young, green plant, followed by the dry adult plant. I've also posted a pic of puncturevine so you can see the difference.

Tumbleweeds can grow up to 6 feet tall, and will be easily blown by the wind once the central stalk is detached from the ground, they roll, or "tumble" across the ground, hence the name. Puncturevine, lays flat to the ground & grows more like a groundcover. I've seen it spread up to 3ft from the central root. Those goathead thorns actually start out soft, green & pliable, but once they harden up, it's pain city.
Hope this helps. Regards, GF.

Well $hit I'll have both.

I had no idea those thorns came from that "pretty little flower." *mad*

Thanks for the details and info... Preemergent it is.

*deep breath, heavy sigh*