RO for All Grain - Budget Option

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Jif

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I've been looking at getting an RO set up, as I'm having issues locating a decent water report in St. Louis to figure out my baseline. I'm considering going RO to simplify things.

I found this guy on Amazon:

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DOG63OY/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

It's significantly cheaper than a lot of the other RO setups I've seen. Does anyone have experience with this one? Or any other similarly low budget setups?
 
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It seems to have all the components. The real calculation is the total cost per gallon of the consumables at their expect lifespan. That is likely higher for a system like this but my guess is that for the volume of water the average brewer uses, it would be a wash over 3-5 years.
 
Yeah, I don't think I'll be using it for anything more than a couple of brew sessions per month. Local tap water here is great drinking water.
 
It would most likely be fine... 4 stars on a good number of reviews. Don't let me talk you out of it, but there are a few concerns I would have if it were me:

1. Not all RO membranes are created equal. What the heck is in this thing? Probably not a Dow FilmTec.
2. The proprietary filters. The RO housing looks to be the standard, but you'll have to source the filters, assuming they keep making them. The standard 10" filter housing gives you almost unlimited options when replacing filters. And they're cheap.

This topic comes up here every once in a while, and the overwhelming consensus is that you can't go wrong with either BuckeyeHydro or BulkReefSupply for RO parts. (A quick Google will find either as the 1st result)

Just fyi - If you don't go the Amazon route, I highly recommend the Dow FilmTec 75 gpd membrane. I get 98-99% rejection with no pressure tank. Best consumer membrane I've ever used.
 
It would most likely be fine... 4 stars on a good number of reviews. Don't let me talk you out of it, but there are a few concerns I would have if it were me:

1. Not all RO membranes are created equal. What the heck is in this thing? Probably not a Dow FilmTec.
2. The proprietary filters. The RO housing looks to be the standard, but you'll have to source the filters, assuming they keep making them. The standard 10" filter housing gives you almost unlimited options when replacing filters. And they're cheap.

This topic comes up here every once in a while, and the overwhelming consensus is that you can't go wrong with either BuckeyeHydro or BulkReefSupply for RO parts. (A quick Google will find either as the 1st result)

Just fyi - If you don't go the Amazon route, I highly recommend the Dow FilmTec 75 gpd membrane. I get 98-99% rejection with no pressure tank. Best consumer membrane I've ever used.

Did some brief research, this is the manufacturer's page:

http://www.aquaticlife.com/rodi-systems/ro-buddie#1

It looks like when whatever comes in this guy goes south, that it can be replaced with standard cartridges? Some of the RO lingo in here is over my head, though.
 
$63 isn't much, but I don't know much about these systems. FWIW I just got to my local grocery store with 2 ale pales and fill them up for 30-40 cents a gallon I think.
 
Had no idea the reports were this cheap and this readily available. This seems like an obvious step #1. Thanks!

It depends IMHO. If your water from the tap is not something you'd want to drink than no matter what the report says you're going to have to treat the water somehow.

A water report is half the cost of that unit especially after you ship the samples....something to think about.
 
I've been looking at getting an RO set up, as I'm having issues locating a decent water report in St. Louis to figure out my baseline. I'm considering going RO to simplify things.

I found this guy on Amazon:

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DOG63OY/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

It's significantly cheaper than a lot of the other RO setups I've seen. Does anyone have experience with this one? Or any other similarly low budget setups?

I own that RO system. I started a thread on it a few months ago:
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=518944

So far I like it, but a couple things to remember:
- I typically do 2.5 gallon (with the occasional 5 gallon) batches. I use the EZ Water spreadsheet and my city water report (yes, I know it may not be 100% accurate), and it finds that I typically need to dilute my tap water 50-75% with the RO water (so I am collecting 2-4 gallons per batch depending on batch size and mineral needs).
- The system does not have any storage tank or auto shut-off. You can find the parts on Amazon to set up a float valve to automatically shut it off, but that will add to the cost. Since I am only collecting a couple gallons, I usually connect it to the hose outside the night before I plan on brewing, and then let it run for however long it takes (1-2 hours) and let the RO water collect in a bucket with volume markings, and then collect the waste water for watering plants, etc. Without a collection tank, you do have to monitor it a bit, but I usually just set it up and then go do something else and check on it every half hour or so.

So far I have collected 24 gallons of RO water over the past couple months with this system. I checked the TDS level last weekend and it was still taking my 220 ppm tap water down to 8 ppm. I bought the system just hoping that it would at least last to the point where it was cheaper than going to the store to buy water.

If you do small batches like me, then I highly recommend it. If you are going to need to collect 5+ gallons for every batch, then I would go for a larger unit, or the 100 GPD version, or plan on setting up an auto shut-off valve with a collection tank so you can just let it run all day.
 
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You could also refill some 5gal water jugs at your local grocery store if they provide an RO water station (Krogers, Walmart, Marsh, etc). I go to Krogers, and luckily their RO water machine has been serviced a day or two before I always fill up. I pay .35 a gallon, so $5.25 for 15 gal of RO. Just a second option to consider.
 
The expense of operation of those small systems is HIGHER than a more traditionally sized system. The prefilter gac they use is not intended to be used as a prefilter, but instead is a "taste and odor filter" intended for use between a pressure tank and a faucet. As a prefilter it is very weak.

Russ
 
Yea...much cheaper and easier to use tap water.....does the King of Beers use SL tap water, I would guess they do....just sayin.

St Louis tap water tastes really good because it is low in contaminants and has modest and well balanced mineral levels. I've made some really tasty IPAs using carbon filtered tap water with a little extra calcium chloride and gypsum.

The AB St Louis brewery uses local tap water, but it is treated like most breweries do, Either via RO or nano filtration. A former employee told me they add gypsum to the kettle but i don't know that first hand.

After talking to Missouri American water this is the water profile I came up with for my area. This can and will vary seasonally, but this will give you a rough idea.

Calcium (Ca) 23.0
Magnesium (Mg) 16.0
Sodium (Na) 33.0
Potassium (K) 6.3
Bicarbonate (HCO3) 40.7
Carbonate (CO3) 11.8
Sulfate (SO4) 116.0
Chloride (Cl) 23.0
Nitrate (NO3) 6.6

I like consistency and to make some really pale lagers so this is what i bought for $100: http://www.purewaterclub.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=390

I fill my MLT and HLT directly and shut it off when i have enough water. Typically makes about 3-4 G/hr depending upon temperature.
 
That system uses a 100 gpd membrane rated at 60 psi. At the very best, you might see 98% rejection, but you won't see 99.9 like that vendor claims.

They've configured the system with a flow restrictor intended for a 50 gpd membrane. Meaning that it will be important for you to check your ratio of purified water to concentrate. If you don't have enough concentrate you'll shorten the life of the RO membrane.

Do you really need a DI stage? If so, configuring a system with a horizontal DI is a fundamental design failure. Remove it from its clips and orient it vertically with flow from the bottom up.

The water is as pure as you can make it after it leaves the DI - why run it through an inline GAC filter?

Assuming you are on city water with very low sediment loads, when its time to replace the filters you can do better than the originals. Go with a 1 mic sediment followed by a 0.5 mic carbon, followed by a 5 mic carbon.

If you have trouble with the instructions that come with that system (many do), feel free to give us a call an we can walk you through any issues.

Russ
513-312-2343
 
It's missing a tank, brine tubing, sediment filter. I use a usa water filter $250. Came with extra filters. Made in america
 
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