RIMs upgrade either slow or SCORCHED!! Please help

[cod3ck]

@augiedoggy uses a rims tube like this. Maybe he can chime and support?

Yes... augiedoggy was definitely a key source of inspiration for this build. Until I can actually implement it correctly like he does though I was going to leave the name out of it

Well... what’s done is done. Any thoughts you have @augiedoggy would definitely help! [emoji482]

As for everyone else that’s jumped in so far— thank you!

 

[mongoose33]

It’s kind of hard to see, but you’ll notice the temp probe tip inside the T:

View attachment 614678

The wort flows through there, but now that I think about it, the diameter difference in the flow between the T and the triclamp casing alone could be enough to cause a significant temp difference..? If that’s true, a longer temp probe would definitely help

It looks to me like it's fine. Not sure what difference the diameters make--if somehow the wort in the tube were being heated too much, that wort would eventually make its way past the temp probe and you'd know.

I use a RIMS tube I bought from BobbyM. The diameter is 1.5" (using 1.5" TC on each end) but it has two camlock fittings on it through which wort flows. Doesn't seem to be an issue on mine. Yeah, it's a lot shorter, but still.

Here's a pic of an early setup, before insulating the mash tun and shortening the hoses and adding a sight glass. No issues with temp there--I'm running a 1650-watt element (folded over) in my RIMS. Same heat as you basically. That wort is heated in a wide tube and then exits through small camlock fittings.

 

[ba-brewer]

I have the same RIMS tube as mongoose, but oriented vertical. It is controlled by an earlier version of the ezboil and it runs at 100% power initially in mash mode. If I mash in at close to 150F I have not had an issue, just when I have mashed in at temps in the mid to upper 130s did I have trouble with scorching. Maybe try mashing in at your desired temp instead of lower.

I don't have a flowmeter I just increase the pump to get a good flow, as the mash progresses flow normally increases and I back off on the pump some. I recall someone saying higher flow is better, you just don't want to go too fast that it compacts the grain bed. The moving wort pull heat from the element, as long as you keep circulating it will all heat up.

 

[augiedoggy]

Hello, I can only offer some possible theory's here couple variables that may have an impact of the drastically different results your getting from my setup,
First off lets get the whole ULWD thing out of the way... watt density is simply the surface area of the element heated surface vs wattage and yes these are very ulwd elements.

your rims seems longer than it needs to be. you want the temp probe to be very close to the end of the element.
Also I use a regular pid to control mine without any variable power output. (first a mypin td4 then a brucontrol software pid.

my flowrate is always between 1 and 1.8gpm (usually 1.5-1.8gpm) much slower than that may contribute to localized boiling on element surface.

Also trying to raise the rims in large amounts does create more cooked on proteins to the element surface since the rims is on 100% consistently. I run into this on my 3bbl systems rims when stepping mash temps but I dont get scortching due to higher flow rate on that system (5gpm) just a lot of slimy tan buildup. If you mash in to your actual desired mash temp you will have better results (much conversion is done in the first 10 mins btw so if its taking you 15 mins or more to reach desired mash temps your mashing much lower than you think.

I also would try turning the rims sideways just for one use and see if you are infact gettting an airpocket up there or swap the output with the temp probe and most who run vertically do to prevent the pocket.

Good luck, I hope you get it sorted out soon.

 

[augiedoggy]

Yes— I make sure flow is coming out of the end, plus the RIMS is downstream of a flow switch.

The temp probe is upstream of the RIMs element.

Here’s a couple photos for better reference:

View attachment 614565

View attachment 614566

By the way— this system runs on 240v

looks like you can just turn the tee so the temp probe end points towards the kettle instead of coming in from the top.

 

[atoughram]

Not trying to be a smart alek, but I don't bother trying to bring my mash to 168. I'm just going to boil it anyhow, and that will denature most everything in it. I've don't it bother ways and haven't noticed a difference.

 

[augiedoggy]

Not trying to be a smart alek, but I don't bother trying to bring my mash to 168. I'm just going to boil it anyhow, and that will denature most everything in it. I've don't it bother ways and haven't noticed a difference.

I didnt bother for like 4 years and when I started doing it I noticed a jump in efficiency from averaging 88% to 91% so it definitely did something in my home setup.

 

[cod3ck]

So... I upgraded the temp probe which now sits ~1/2 an inch end-to-end from the heating element.

Ran a couple batches over the past couple days at 100% output from the EZBoil... and NO SCORCHING [emoji1]

I’m finally off to the races with mash-out, step mashing, and probably any other madness I can throw at this thing.

Thanks everyone for the ideas! [emoji482]

 

[brewbama]

Glad to hear it!