Repitched twice, and STILL stuck.

[VachonBrewCo]

I have a 6 gallon batch if blueberry wine going right now. The OG was 1.090 and I've been stuck around 1.040 for a few weeks now. After about 3 weeks in the primary I took a hydro reading and decided to re-pitch. About 3 weeks later I had to re-pitch again. It's been about two week and I haven't seen any airlock activity at all, and the hydro is still at 1.040.. The wine is in a wrap in our basement and has been holding a steady 66° F reading. Any suggestions?

Edit: I have been using yeast nutrient every time I re-pitch.

 

[prandlesc]

I had my first stuck fermentation with the batch in my fermenter now. The guy at my LHBS suggested yeast nutrient. I was skeptical, but bought some and added it. The next day, the bubbling in the airlock began again. You might give that a try, it worked for me.

 

[VachonBrewCo]

Right on, I totally forgot to mention I have used yeast nutrients every time I pitched or re-pitched the yeast. Thank you though!!

 

[pumpkinman2012]

A few questions for you, but first, ease up on the yeast nutrients, you will have more than the yeast can use and end up creating a perfect environment for spoilage organisms.
Where did you get the blueberry juice? Did you use fresh blueberries, frozen blueberries or juice?
If you used juice, what kind and did the ingredients include potassium sorbate?
What kind of yeast did you originally use?
What did you use to repitch?
What temp is the must in?
How much yeast nutrient have you added, and which kind?

There are several things that we can do to restart the fermentation, but I need to know the background info that I asked.
I'll monitor this thread to wait for an answer, but I can tell you that I'd get Lalvin EC-1118 or Uvaferm 43 yeast to restart a stuck fermentation, Yeast hulls are also highly recommended, please do not add any more yeast nutrient.
I look forward to your reply.

 

[VachonBrewCo]

The pressed the juice from fresh blueberries. It's been at a steady 66 degrees. I used Camden before pitching the yeast. The original yeast was Lavin 71B, the re pitches we're D47. I use the amount shown in the package for yeast nutrient (1 teaspoon per gallon) at first, and used less every re pitch.

 

[Yooper]

The pressed the juice from fresh blueberries. It's been at a steady 66 degrees. I used Camden before pitching the yeast. The original yeast was Lavin 71B, the re pitches we're D47. I use the amount shown in the package for yeast nutrient (1 teaspoon per gallon) at first, and used less every re pitch.

Did you double check the hydrometer in water, to make sure it's accurate?

You're not using a refractometer, I assume, but if you are put it away and grab a hydrometer reading.

 

[VachonBrewCo]

Did you double check the hydrometer in water, to make sure it's accurate? You're not using a refractometer, I assume, but if you are put it away and grab a hydrometer reading.

Yeah it still reads 0 in water

 

[Yooper]

Yeah it still reads 0 in water

You mean 1.000?

 

[Johnnyhitch1]

Yeah it still reads 0 in water

Are you reading BRIX or GRAVITY?

 

[VachonBrewCo]

1.0

 

[goosen1]

If it's reading 1.0 you need to add sugar. Your yeast have almost nothing to eat. Bring the SG up to 1.070-1.085

 

[pumpkinman2012]

if the wine started at 1.090 and now it is at 1.000 you do not need to add any sugar!
Have you considered that this wine may be done? If you are sure that you want to ferment it any further, you need to get Uvaferm 43, this yeast is recommended by Scott Labs for stuck fermentations.
Don't add any more yeast nutrients, too much could lead to having plenty of food in the wine for spoilage organisms.

 

[VachonBrewCo]

Please read through the comments.. I said it reads 1.0 in WATER I said the fermentation is stuck at 1.040

 

[novalou]

The pressed the juice from fresh blueberries. It's been at a steady 66 degrees. I used Camden before pitching the yeast. The original yeast was Lavin 71B, the re pitches we're D47. I use the amount shown in the package for yeast nutrient (1 teaspoon per gallon) at first, and used less every re pitch.

One thing no one has mentioned is TA (titratable acid). Blueberries are high in acid. That and what alcohol has fermented thus far is killing your yeast.

Take a cup of your wine, cut it with 1/2 cup of warm water. Pitch EC-1118 yeast in that and see if that will get going. Once this "starter" gets going, add another cup on wine to it. If it keeps going, add it to your batch.

 

[Jacob_Marley]

It was likely the 71B-1122 and a lack of the right nutrient

While blueberries are low in nutrients, 71B does *not* have particularly high *nitrogen* nutrient needs.
However one thing 71B-1122 does need specifically is a really good oxygenated environment ... more-so than many other yeasts.
In circumstances where you have a low oxygen condition 71B *THEN* has “high requirement of certain other substances/additives which help produce chemicals in the must known as “survival factors”... or your ferment may crap-out.

Open top (bucket) primary fermenters are desirable ... punching down to keep the must oxygenated is good ... but also“oxygen scavengers” are a problem for 71B ... sulfites are an oxygen scavenger and you added campden.
(another common scavenger is ascorbic acid - fyi)
Oxygen scavengers should not be used in 71B musts prior to fermentation unless you add an energizer type product. This may have been your problem.

This energizer type product is *not* “yeast nutrient” (DAP) ... but *is* the one known as “yeast energizer” ... aka Fermax aka Fermaid aka things with yeast hulls etc.
Your description of 1 tea per gallon of added nutrient suggests you added a DAP related product.

The short version: 71B can develop issues with the yeast cell wall membrane in a lower oxygen environment as alcohol develops and can consequently lose its ability to assimilate sugars and amino acids. Yeast *energizer* is an artificial way to get around this.

So ... As an aside about two common questions ... Is there a problem with fermenting juice that has had ascorbic acid as an ingredient listed on the label? ... Is there a downside to using sulfites prior to fermentation?? ... whelp, those are them.
Use yeast *energizer* when you do either of those two things. I digress.

Another thing that inhibits those “survival factors” ... is higher sugar musts with low oxygen. Your must at 1.090, while not quite to the upper limit for final alcohol tolerance for 71B- resolving at a bit over 12%, is also a somewhat higher sugar must.

BTW all that yeast you’ve added may actually help with nutrition ... dead yeast/yeast hulls etc are part of the correct nutrients.

So, what to do ...

First of all observe really good sanitation.

Second, take another SG reading ... if your gravity is now any less than the 1.040 you might need to add more sugar once the ferment gets going again due to all the DAP that’s been added in order to “run it through”.

I would go to the store and buy some Yeast *energizer* (fermaid etc) and a packet of EC-1118.

Put your must back into an open-top fermenter (bucket) and add a good dose of the yeast energizer to the must give it a good stir ... this should provide enough oxygen to get things going.
Keep the temp at 66* to 68* (as higher temps can also interfere with survival factor production), and watch carefully for the ferment to resume while keeping on guard for any signs of infection.

IF the ferment does not re-start within 48 hours ... make a large starter using the EC-1118 and add that to the must and raise the temp to about 70* to 72*. This should get it going. EC-1118 has a high competitive factor which will allow it to overcome any other yeasts present and other undesirable microorganisms ... it has a high tolerance for difficult environments, and is a high speed yeast.

Make the starter properly ... (more inx are available by searching)
Properly re-hydrate the EC-1118 being very careful with the temp of the rehydration water, don't let the water get even a couple degrees too hot (inx on how to rehydrate yeast can also be found online).
Over a period of hours grow the starter size in the standard way with periodic additions of some of the must, and so forth. Pitch it once it gets to be a quart or so and is fermenting strongly.

If infection seems to take hold at any time, hit the must with a moderate dose of K-meta or other sulfites and put under airlock ... the EC-1118 should be able to handle it.
If it shows infection after having added just the energizer alone ... go right to guns on the EC-1118, sulfite and put under airlock as suggested.

Hope this helps.
Would be a shame to pour all those blueberries down the drain.

In any regard, a good illustration though on how to use 71B-1122.