Redirecting again

nmikmik · Oct 19, 2011

I built my keezer, nothing to be proud of at least aesthetically, but it should have been functional. When I built my outdoor bbq cabinets/tiled, I allowed for 3/4" gap between the top of my keezer and the bottom of the cabinet. My problem is that I got carried away with the tile skirt on the bbq and that is now pretty much flush with the top of the keezer

My current casters are 2" tall and attached to the very bottom (there is also like 3" round "legs" extrusions on the bottom of the keezer so the casters are very next to them not on them) of my keezer. I found these "space saver" casters at the local industrial supply shop.
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/ERWAGNER-Low-Profile-Caster-1MPU1?Pid=search
but to install them it looks like I need to use a hole saw and remove just enough from the bottom of the keezer to install them.
So the question(s)
a. Can/ should I install these new casters? and if yes, how do I avoid freon lines? I know (I think) how to approach it on the sides with the starch mixture, but the bottom??? I can't tilt it, rite?
b. Is there a slicker way of doing it? Please keep in mind that my cabinet is about 10" wider than my keezer, so I can't use those cabinet drawer HD gliders, I don't think...
Thanks!

Doomsday · Oct 19, 2011

build a drop in cart for the keezer? Or maybe mount the casters on some sort of extension comming off the keezer?

brewingmeister · Oct 19, 2011

Try looking for side mount casters since you have room on the sides but not underneath.
-cheers

Hang Glider · Oct 19, 2011

1) tile saw (to fix what you got carried away on...

2) no freon in bottom of chest freezers, so your Grainger choice might work

nmikmik · Oct 19, 2011

Thanks a lot guys!

I was considering the tile blade in the circular saw, but
a. I am not that good with circular saw

b. my saw is not that new and even the new ones "walk" a little bit
so my cut would look like I had consumed a couple pitchers :tank:

The drop in cart is probably the best way to go because it will not require drilling the keezer, but if bottom of the keezer is really free of any lines, that would be the quickest and cheapest. I should mention probably that in order for me drill those holes, i'd have to fist predrill i.e. part of the holesaw about 3/4" drill bit extending from the holesaw and the holesaw about another 3/4" so total "intrusion" into the bottom of the keezer about 1 1/2".

Thanks again for your suggestions.