Red Hat Valves for my temp controlled brew rig

[cdelap]

I am looking at buying 4 Red Hat 8210B021 ( http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/RED-HAT-Solenoid-Valve-3UK19?Pid=search ) Solenoid valves to control all 3 burners as well as one for a safety shutoff I am planning on running a standing pilot light system and using 4 of the 4" cast Iron burners in my rig Has anyone had any experience with these or similar valves? Any tips for the installation

Thanks!

 

[cdelap]

opps I ment 3 - 4 Inch burners

 

[JuanMoore]

Those valves will work, but are expensive and would require constant monitoring since there's no safety shut-off if the pilot goes out. I'm guessing that this is a high pressure system since the burners are 4", and FWIW others have had trouble using a standing pilot in high pressure systems. The alternatives AFAIK are electronic ignition, or switching to low pressure burners. If you want to stay with a simple valve like that, you can find suitable ones for ~$30-35 on e-bay. If you want a safer system, you can find reasonably priced furnace valves that utilize a thermocouple to shut the gas off if the pilot goes out. If you do a search here using the term "automate burner" you'll find some good reading material on the subject as well as suggestions for a variety of different valves for different systems. My choice was to switch to low pressure and use honeywell VR8200 valves with Q314 standing pilots and Q390 thermocouples.

 

[RoadKing]

This was posted here yesterday...https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/automated-burner-help-253755/

 

[cdelap]

I like the idea of using Thermocouples, but I was looking to use 120vac valves since I currently have a all electric control panel which uses 120vac output to the contactors that switch elements on/off. I could set up the same box with 24v transformers but it is added parts that need to be mounted to my rig. Does anyone know about a 120VAC valve that also uses a thermocouple as a safety?

Thanks

 

[cdelap]

also I may be missing the reasons since im looking through all the posts on a cell phone but why is it hard to automate high pressure LP?

 

[kladue]

It takes 2 - 24Vac solenoid valves, pilot burner, and ignition module per burner Vs. 24Vac standing pilot furnace valve,and pilot burner with thermocouple. Low pressure standing pilot system is usually under $90 per burner. For high pressure the ignition module alone is more than that, then add solenoids and pilot burner.

 

[cdelap]

Ok so it isn't so much that it is harder to automate the HPLP system it is that is much more costly, I think I will stick with the 120VAC valves to get this up and running and then start working how to mount the furnace valve system. my next question would be is there anything I need to know about turning one of the legs of my brew system into a Propane Manifold? My rig is a 2 tier "L" shape which means I have 1 leg that is connected to all 3 kettle racks and I would love to mount all of the valves to this leg Do I need to worry about heat etc? any coating on the inside of the square tubing?

 

[kladue]

Start out with 1/4" 24VAC solenoids now with provisions to add second solenoid valve per controlled burner to manifold for pilot later. Skip the ASCO's and go with 1/4" STC 2W160 valves from Fremont Industrial, anything larger is a waste of money in high pressure applications as 1/4" will flow more than is needed. You can add an ignition module, pilot burner w/ flame sensor, and solenoid for pilot burner and not have to replace parts if you stay with 24 VAC coils. If you shop Ebay for S8610 ignition modules you can probably find them for a fraction of retail price if you are patient.

 

[cdelap]

I am planning on welding in three 3/8" npt weldins for burners, I can always just add a brass bushing down the road, I also have four 1/4" weldins for pilots and preassure gauge (this I plan on using a bushing for 1/4" to1/8" but since I want keep the adaptability for future) If I was going to change to low preasure later will I regret going down to 1/4" now

 

[kladue]

With the current design it would be easier to stay high pressure and automate with spark ignition. If you go to low pressure and furnace valves then increase the 3/8" openings to 1/2". If you start with the Q345 pilot burner you could use a BBQ ignitor wired to pilot to light things up, then just plug in ignition module later.

 

[cdelap]

Sorry for all the questions, what are the benefits of low pressure over high pressure? is it just based on whats available to a person, my lbhs doesn't carry (can order) and lp burners they all use the same burners I have. But I'm always looking for the better way

Thanks again for all the help

 

[jcaudill]

High pressure - more BTUs possible. Low pressure - less BTUs. But with high obviously you get higher gas consumption.

 

[cdelap]

I decided to go with my 120VAC valves (which were items that I pulled of scrap lab equipment with no cost to me) and I can always add 6 SSR's to step my 24v control signal back up to a 120 VAC to power up the coils when I do add the intermittent pilot modules.

I know it seems like added work and parts but at the same time I like the ability to take my control panel between my all electric set up to my propane set up, I also have used the panel to control my smoker and even the wifes chocolate tempering machine.