Recirculation Methods

[Antonio Martinez]

I'm planning an upgrade going from PWM based BIAB to Aubers DSPR120 controller. I know everyone has a preference, or maybe even bias towards their own method, but I'm trying to get a feel for what would be a better choice between:
1) Ss Brewtech Mash Re-circulation Manifold
2) Locline
3) Simple silicone hose resting in the mash

I like the idea of locline but I've seen someone, can't remember where, post about the locline discoloring which means that dye is presumably leeching into the beer. The Ss manifold seems like a good option as well, the only downside I see here is that it restricts flow down to 3/8 off of the 1/2" ball valve I'll be using on the mkII pump. I suppose just using the silicone hose could cause channeling but I would imagine this is also possible with any recirculation setup. Cleanup would seem to be the easiest with the silicone hose given that you can visually inspect hose whereas both other options don't offer this option. I would also assume that Locline would probably deteriorate with continued exposure to chemicals used for cleaning/sanitization. What else am I not thinking of?

 

[aamcle]

I used the hose on a system I built and it's used in the GF, both the other options you mention are good but offer no real advantage whilst being harder to clean.

Atb. Aamcle

 

[Antonio Martinez]

That was another plus for the hose, compared to other options it's cheaper to replace when needed and can be used for other parts of the brewing process. Thanks for your input.

 

[day_trippr]

fwiw, I use a Blichmann autosparge valve on my MLT with its 3/8" silicone tubing and float balls. I replaced the original tubing with a run about a foot longer and positioned the floats so the open end of the tubing rides just below the surface. Imo that provides the least oxidation probability versus anything that "air-drops" wort...

Cheers!

 

[Antonio Martinez]

I considered the auto sparge but wanted something I could either secure through the lid or allow to just rest against the kettle rim to make it easier to get out of the way when it's time to pull the bag. Although I'm not overly concerned about oxidation since the vast majority of things I brew won't be around long enough for shelf stability to be a problem. I did intend to reduce the "air drop" by having the wort return at or just below the surface depending on what attachment I end up going with.

 

[Antonio Martinez]

I think I'll start with the silicone hose coiled around the inside of the kettle and adjust from there if need be. As a side bar, it also looks like SS brewtech has a sparge arm that attaches to their kettle handle that could also work. They do say it's only for their mash tuns but doubt kettle handles are sized differently enough that it wouldn't fit.

 

[eric19312]

I considered the auto sparge but wanted something I could either secure through the lid or allow to just rest against the kettle rim to make it easier to get out of the way when it's time to pull the bag. Although I'm not overly concerned about oxidation since the vast majority of things I brew won't be around long enough for shelf stability to be a problem. I did intend to reduce the "air drop" by having the wort return at or just below the surface depending on what attachment I end up going with.

I posted this pic yesterday in another thread...it is possible to mount the autosparge on the lid. I did this for reason you mention...kept snagging the bag I was trying to use on the autosparge. Hmm another advantage of the silicone hose over lockline might be you can see when it needs to be cleaned...

 

[eric19312]

fwiw, I use a Blichmann autosparge valve on my MLT with its 3/8" silicone tubing and float balls. I replaced the original tubing with a run about a foot longer and positioned the floats so the open end of the tubing rides just below the surface. Imo that provides the least oxidation probability versus anything that "air-drops" wort...

Cheers!

How did you position the floats to make this happen?

 

[Antonio Martinez]

Interested in how you made that work too. I agree that it'd be much easier to judge when it's time to clean or discard with just the hose.

 

[day_trippr]

"float" - my error in pluralizing. When I changed out the original tubing for one about a foot longer (34" total length now) I started with the small float positioned with 3 inches of tubing sticking out. That wasn't enough to submerge the end, so I kept sliding the float until there was 6" of stick-out, at which point the tubing end was fully submerged, riding just under the surface.

I just discovered in all these years I've never taken a picture inside the mlt on a brewday. I'll remember to do that next brew

Cheers!

 

[eric19312]

Thanks...would like to see that. You have me thinking my next upgrade maybe should be my overloaded mash tun.