Recipe feedback: English Barlywine

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RC0032

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 3, 2008
Messages
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Location
Chicago
Recipe Specifications
--------------------------
Batch Size: 5.25 gal
Boil Size: 7.70 gal
Estimated OG: 1.119 SG
Estimated Color: 19.1 SRM
Estimated IBU: 93.7 IBU
Brewhouse Efficiency: 65.00 %
Boil Time: 90 Minutes

Ingredients:
------------
Amount Item Type % or IBU
2.00 lb Light Dry Extract (8.0 SRM) Dry Extract 8.00 %
18.00 lb Pale Malt (2 Row) US (2.0 SRM) Grain 72.00 %
4.00 lb Vienna Malt (3.5 SRM) Grain 16.00 %
0.50 lb Caramel/Crystal Malt -120L (120.0 SRM) Grain 2.00 %
0.50 lb Special B Malt (180.0 SRM) Grain 2.00 %
2.00 oz Magnum [14.00 %] (90 min) Hops 69.1 IBU
2.00 oz Cascade [5.50 %] (30 min) Hops 19.5 IBU
2.00 oz Cascade [5.50 %] (5 min) Hops 5.1 IBU


Mash Schedule: Single Infusion, Medium Body, Batch Sparge
Total Grain Weight: 23.00 lb
----------------------------
Single Infusion, Medium Body, Batch Sparge
Step Time Name Description Step Temp
60 min Mash In Add 28.75 qt of water at 165.9 F 154.0 F
 
Um, how is this an "English" barleywine?

The recipe looks fine for whatever it is.
 
Well im in for how to make it English. From the commercial examples I have had I think I prefer English.
 
Also im going with some oak soaked in 1/2 pint Makers....and the Makers.
 
Replace the cascade with Fuggles or Goldings, and you will be close.

What yeast?
 
As I said, the recipe you have there is fine for a barleywine of some sort, but it's not English. Actually, it would make a good American barleywine if you increased the hopping. For reference, most English BW's are simple things, typically Maris Otter with around 8% medium to dark crystal and sometimes a touch of chocolate malt for color. Hopping is often Fuggles/EKG and of course, a characterful English yeast. You'll get a lot of your character through the basemalt alone and yeast esters. And aging the beer.

I'd stick with the American hop varieties and do a maltier American version. Good luck.
 
Few issues I see with the recipe as well as yeast choice.

First off, the yeast has a listed limit of 10% ABV. Making it a poor choice as the recipe stands. It will finish far too sweet if you use this yeast as the OG stands (1.119).
Then the recipe has far too many IBU's to be an English Barleywine. Plus, it's using American/US ingredients pushing it further away from the English version. An English Barleywine has an IBU range of 35-70, with an ABV of 8-12%. You're far above both.
Your recipe is more in line with an American Barleywine. At least for the ingredients and IBU levels. I still see a big issue with the OG and yeast you want to use.

IF you intend to keep the OG as it stands (you could probably drop the DME, and use that money to buy a more suitable yeast strain) then you need a different yeast. Otherwise, you'll probably be posting about a stuck fermentation when it won't go below (or much below) 1.040 after X weeks/months. At the very best, you might be able to get it to go to 1.030 (~75% attenuation) with Wyeast 1450.
 
Ok dial things back to be around 10% and go with an American Barley wine hows it looking? Or would adding Corn sugar help drive down FG? Or what yeast would you go with?

I liked this about the yeast (aside from having it on hand).

This terrific all-round yeast can be used for almost any beer style, and is a mainstay of one of our local homebrewers, Mr. Denny Conn. It is unique in that it produces a big mouthfeel and accentuates the malt, caramel, or fruit character of a beer without being sweet or under-attenuated..


The other yeast I have on hand is 3787 but I dont see that fitting the style.
 
I would go with an English Barleywine recipe, if I was brewing it.

If you want to get the ABV above 10%, then try using Wyeast 1728.

I don't see any changes to your first post with the recipe [yet at least]... If you use BeerSmith, it will give you the estimated FG depending on what you enter for the recipe. If you don't pick a yeast that has an attenuation range that works with the recipe, then you need to go with a different yeast. IMO, just because you have yeast on hand doesn't mean you should just use it.

For a higher OG batch, you'll need to do some things different than lower OG batches. Proper oxygenation is pretty much critical. As is pitching the correct amount of yeast. Using a slurry/cake from a previous batch can be ok, IF it will otherwise work with the recipe. Use the different sites to help figure out how much yeast to use (if using the cake) or make a proper sized starter (or steps to the starter) to get the colony up to the level needed.
 
If you have a giant healthy yeast cake and aerate well - Denny's favorite 50 should have no problem getting past 10% and beyond. But as everyone has said before to make this an English barley wine you need to change your yeast, hop selection, and lower the IBU - have it finish in the 1.020s to low 1.030s.

To get a good idea on how to make/what it takes to create an award winning English barley wine - take a look at this page:
http://wiki.homebrewersassociation.org/AHA-National-Homebrew-Competition-Winners-Circle

Take look at the winning English barley wines (there should be a few in there)
 
So the lessons here are bring the OG down to something the yeast can consume, calculate the yeast pitching rate and oxygenation.

I'm going to swap to an American Barleywine based solely on what I have on hand; American hops, grain and yeast. Something more inline with this: http://beerdujour.com/Recipes/Jamil/The_Jamil_Show_-_American_Barleywine.html

Good call on going American instead. That is what your original recipe looked like anyways.

Definitely stick with WLP001 as your yeast. Great profile and high alcohol tolerance so you won't have to risk the yeast going into alcohol shock.
 
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