Ready to move to all grain, any equipment kit suggestions?

[Puddlethumper]

I've been buying the Wal-Mart spring water. So if I'm able to use my own tap water for brewing it would sure cut down on cost. I thought about sending it off for analysis, I've read about that before.

The water analysis showed me that if I'm making dark beers such as porters, stouts and browns I can use my well water pretty much as-is. The dark malts bring the pH down to almost optimal levels by themselves.

If brewing lighter beers such as APA or cream ale I'll buy 5 gallons of RO water from the machine in front of the grocery store, mix in 5 gal. of my well water and a touch of lactic acid and the pH and all other numbers fall right in line. Your water will, most likely, be completely different. So the adjustments you'll need to make will probably be completely different from mine.

Brewing water chemistry is another whole field of study for the home brewer. But since water is THE dominant component of all beers I think it is pretty important. Again, just my .02c worth. And if the beer you are making tastes good to you then you may not want to mess with it at this point. Just something to think about.

Cheers!

 

[mongoose33]

I wish I could luck into someone locally who wants to get out of it. But most people on this side of the state moonshine, and drink bud light. So I doubt I'll find anyone. I've been wanting to get a refractometer. Right now I'm just trying to get the essentials, then later on as I get more comfortable I'll buy all the little odds and ends.

You have to keep fishing.

I checked tonite just for fun, and you won't believe this:

http://iowacity.craigslist.org/for/5487683570.html

 

[Rhetorik]

I've been buying the Wal-Mart spring water. So if I'm able to use my own tap water for brewing it would sure cut down on cost. I thought about sending it off for analysis, I've read about that before.

For water, check out this site to see if your city is listed. It will give you a basic breakdown, though it won't be as accurate as the water test as that measures the water coming out of your taps.

http://www.brewersfriend.com/homebrew/water-profiles/

You have to keep fishing.

I checked tonite just for fun, and you won't believe this:

http://iowacity.craigslist.org/for/5487683570.html

Yep, snap one of these kits up! They're a great deal.

 

[Subdivisions]

I was relatively satisfied with how my BIAB partial mashes were working out. Messy and sticky as it was, it worked. But now that I've moved outside and into things the way I have, I wouldn't have it any other way. To be able to blow out an 11 gallon batch in 5 hours without getting sticky is nice. Now while brewing I typically enjoy a homebrew and a cigar and let the equipment work for me. The only thing better would be to have a pump to move things so I wouldn't have to gravity flow.

Doesn't look like you're all that far away from me, if you'd ever want to come check things out and maybe do a brew day with me, you're welcome to. I know a lot of people around Pittsburgh seem to think that Butler is on the other side of the planet, but I can be down in the city in less than an hour if I don't hit too much traffic, and places like Monroeville are only 30 miles away (I say only because I work construction, so a 20 mile ride is a normal commute for me).

I might hit you up on that! I'm a lot closer than Pittsburgh. I'm in Harmony actually. I put Pittsburgh as a location since it's easy to identify the general area and no one outside of here would know if Harmony was here or Philly or in the Allegheny National Forest.

 

[PADave]

I might hit you up on that! I'm a lot closer than Pittsburgh. I'm in Harmony actually. I put Pittsburgh as a location since it's easy to identify the general area and no one outside of here would know if Harmony was here or Philly or in the Allegheny National Forest.

I'm close to Butler too. Any HB clubs, or LHBS around here?

 

[LBF]

I might hit you up on that! I'm a lot closer than Pittsburgh. I'm in Harmony actually. I put Pittsburgh as a location since it's easy to identify the general area and no one outside of here would know if Harmony was here or Philly or in the Allegheny National Forest.

I hear you there. Years ago I used Pittsburgh on forums, but I lived in Wexford then. Now that I've moved up close to Butler City, I just said F it and have been using Butler on the forums. I figure people can Google it if they care that much, haha!

I'm close to Butler too. Any HB clubs, or LHBS around here?

Not that I'm aware of, but maybe the three of us can get something going... I'd be up for organizing things.

Just noticed that you have Saxonburg as your location... I'm actually just off of Dinnerbell Road on the RT-8 side of things.

 

[Osborne]

I've been extremely busy I'm still considering BIAB but what about the Batch Sparge method? Any opinions on it?

 

[Puddlethumper]

I've been extremely busy I'm still considering BIAB but what about the Batch Sparge method? Any opinions on it?

I've done nothing but batch sparge since I started brewing. That being said there are probably those who will say that fly sparging is vastly better. I am given to understand that with modern malts there isn't all that much to be gained from fly sparging and I typically get 80% efficiency from my AG setup. There will be others, I am sure, who will argue vehemently to the contrary.

After draining the first runnings I will calculate the volume drawn and, based on that, figure how many quarts of sparge water are needed. I add that many quarts to the mash tun, stir and let stand for 10 min +/- and then begin vorlouf. I do use a grant to allow the run-off to drain at a constant rate. I continue the vorlouff untill the runnings are clear which may take 10 - 20 minutes. Only then will I allow the grant to drain into the boil kettle.

Batch sparge has worked well for me and I see no reason to change, YMMV.

Cheers!

 

[LBF]

I've done nothing but batch sparge since I started brewing. That being said there are probably those who will say that fly sparging is vastly better. I am given to understand that with modern malts there isn't all that much to be gained from fly sparging and I typically get 80% efficiency from my AG setup. There will be others, I am sure, who will argue vehemently to the contrary.

After draining the first runnings I will calculate the volume drawn and, based on that, figure how many quarts of sparge water are needed. I add that many quarts to the mash tun, stir and let stand for 10 min +/- and then begin vorlouf. I do use a grant to allow the run-off to drain at a constant rate. I continue the vorlouff untill the runnings are clear which may take 10 - 20 minutes. Only then will I allow the grant to drain into the boil kettle.

Batch sparge has worked well for me and I see no reason to change, YMMV.

Cheers!

From what I understand about it, you are correct that with modern malts it doesn't matter in terms of efficiency to batch sparge or fly sparge. The thing that pushed me towards batch sparging is the simplicity. With fly sparging you need a sparge arm to sprinkle the water at a set rate over the grain bed and you have to monitor your PH as you sparge to make sure it doesn't get too high.

FWIW, I found that BeerSmith will calculate your mash water amounts and sparge water amounts along with strike temps once you get it dialed in to your equipment. That made my move to all-grain an easy one. Of course, they are arguably a little too precise with it (add 38.48 quarts at 162.7*F). I suppose it's possible to measure that much water exactly and I know you can get the temperature that exact, but I've been shooting for close enough. Maybe someday after I get a bit more practice at it I'll try to be a little more exact, but I figure if I'm a pint or so high or low on my volume and within a degree or so, it's still going to make beer.

 

[Osborne]

I BIAB now, previously I batch-sparged into an esky (uh, cooler) mash tun. You can do it, it's not overly technical, it just takes longer. I would recirculate until the wort runs clear/you're sick of recirculating, drain the whole batch into a fermenter (or anything with liquid markings on it), and then sparge with whatever amount you need to make up the boil volume. Refill that amount, stir, recirculate, drain, repeat if double-batch sparging, or boil.
The main benefit for me switching to BIAB was time. It knocked an hour + off my brew day straight away. I've been switching recipes a lot, finding my efficiency moves a lot depending on which type of grain I use, so establishing a reliable brewhouse efficiency has been difficult, but I did notice an improvement wholesale going BIAB. That could be put down to poor procedure with the mash-tun method, I don't know.Brews are potentially less clear, but that's something you can alter with whirlfloc/irish moss, and recently I've been tipping into the fermenter through a sanitised wheat bag, which cuts the trub in half.

I use a crab boiling pot. It's 38 litres (10 gal) and has a perforated aluminium pot that fits inside it which would usually hold crabs - very handy to strap the wheat bag into, making lifting a lot easier. The inner pot sits on top of the pot and drains. Currently I sparge by pouring water through the bag. No lautering or circulation involved. Or, use your old extract pot to teabag sparge. I'm sure that's the technical term...

I hot water sparge to save time - adding cold water to your boil pot increases the time needed to bring it to boil.

The limit is about 8kgs of grain - we could probably sneak that to 10 if I didn't use the inner pot. As long as you're paying attention as it comes onto boil, you can boil 9 gal in a 10 gal pot. That grain bill translates to about 1.050 for 6.5-7 gallons. I use 8 gallon fermenters, so for me it's a no brainer.

Prices in Australia are stupid (the pot cost $110 dollarydoos) but you could probably find one at a camping store stateside for less.

I haven't entered water chemistry yet. Sometimes I boil my sparge water the night before, let it cool, transfer the water, scrub the pot (to remove fallout) and boil away. The water definitely tastes cleaner at that point, but I think you'd need a more advanced tongue than mine to taste the difference in beer.

I have a 8 Gallon Tall Boy from Northern Brewer. Which I belive will be big enough for Batch Sparging (I doubt it would be for BIAB). I do plan on getting a better one eventually. I don't know why I'm so attracted to the batch sparge method, but I seem to like it better than BIAB. I don't think an hour longer will make much of a difference. When I have time to brew, I have plenty of time.


For a 10 gallon pot thats about right, at least without any deals or anything over there.

 

[Osborne]

I've done nothing but batch sparge since I started brewing. That being said there are probably those who will say that fly sparging is vastly better. I am given to understand that with modern malts there isn't all that much to be gained from fly sparging and I typically get 80% efficiency from my AG setup. There will be others, I am sure, who will argue vehemently to the contrary.

After draining the first runnings I will calculate the volume drawn and, based on that, figure how many quarts of sparge water are needed. I add that many quarts to the mash tun, stir and let stand for 10 min +/- and then begin vorlouf. I do use a grant to allow the run-off to drain at a constant rate. I continue the vorlouff untill the runnings are clear which may take 10 - 20 minutes. Only then will I allow the grant to drain into the boil kettle.

Batch sparge has worked well for me and I see no reason to change, YMMV.

Cheers!

Great to hear! One of the things I keep seeing is in order to compensate for the loss of efficiency is to increase your grain bill by ~10%?

Gotcha! I'm a little surprised it takes you 10-20 minutes to get it clear. Most of the videos I've seen are clear after 1-2 pitchers full. Shouldn't you do this before draining your first running?

 

[Jaxmickey]

Hello,

I have a 32q HLT (formerly a turkey fryer kit). I bought two 44q MT and Boil kettles from Academy Sports for 45.00 each. got my bulkhead thermostats and ball valves from Amazon. Got another turkey fryer burner from a neighbor and will soon be getting a banjo burner for my boil to limit the amount of lifting and movement. So far so great!

 

[Puddlethumper]

Great to hear! One of the things I keep seeing is in order to compensate for the loss of efficiency is to increase your grain bill by ~10%?

Gotcha! I'm a little surprised it takes you 10-20 minutes to get it clear. Most of the videos I've seen are clear after 1-2 pitchers full. Shouldn't you do this before draining your first running?

Sorry for the confusion on that, and yes, I do vourlauf after mash and sparge.

The time required seems to vary with the recipe and I've yet to get a clear handle on why. I buy grain in bulk and grind it myself so variability of grind isn't the answer.

I drain the mash tun at a very slow rate into the grant. Some batches come clear after just a couple of pitchers through. Some, on the other hand, require 4 or 5 pitchers (4 qts ea.) to get them to the clarity I am looking for. On those occasions I may be recirculating wort for a half hour or more. But, as others have said, you don't need to be as AR as I am about this. Get it as clear as you like and with a little Irish Moss or Whirfloc you're good to go.

It's nice to know that there isn't a "single right way" to do this. You're still going to make some pretty darned good beer!

Cheers!

 

[Subdivisions]

I'm close to Butler too. Any HB clubs, or LHBS around here?

There's the porterhouse brew shop in Harmony on Rt. 19. It's right next to the beer distributor. May be kind of far for you depending on where you are. If you're in Butler county it's a lot closer than Country Wines.

 

[Subdivisions]

I'm close to Butler too. Any HB clubs, or LHBS around here?

Forgot to add that there is BASH, Butler Area Society of Homebrewers. They have a webpage. Just use the Google-fu.

 

[LBF]

Forgot to add that there is BASH, Butler Area Society of Homebrewers. They have a webpage. Just use the Google-fu.

Forgot about BASH too.... I'll have to contact them and see what's up...

 

[WaltG]

I tried searching, but couldn't find anything recent on a good equipment kit to get. I've been brewing extract for a year now, and feel its time to move on.

I think my burner from Northern Brewer, and wort chiller will suffice. But I don't know if my 8 gallon kettle is big enough.

Also for a grain mill I was thinking the Cereal Killer from AIH.

I like the looks of this kit since if I decide to do 10 gallon batches, I'm I worry about lifting a hot heavy kettle of water and pouring in...

http://www.northernbrewer.com/fermenters-favorites-essential-all-grain-brewing-starter-kit-10-gallon

Here's probably your best deal on a cooler to convert. http://m.lowes.com/pd/Igloo-10-Gallon-Plastic-Beverage-Cooler/4767313

 

[jplowe]

biab is a great way to go all grain. Probably the only other upgrade I did was buying a Ceral Killer mill so i could buy bulk brewers malt and mill at home. This keeps it fresh and cheap.

 

[Osborne]

Here's probably your best deal on a cooler to convert. http://m.lowes.com/pd/Igloo-10-Gallon-Plastic-Beverage-Cooler/4767313

In stock at my local Lowes, I'll keep this in mind.

 

[m00ps]

Info on BIAB sparge methods. Mine comes highly reccomended
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?p=7492549

 

[Osborne]

Another quick question! I may have to stick with extract for 2-3 more months. I'm putting the money I have towards the all grain set up to taking my friend on vacation before he gets shipped out to basic training this summer.

My tap water is decent I believe anyways... We still drink bottle water out of habit, but recently they switched the source from our nasty river to obviously better lake.

My Star-San stays clear and potent almost indefinitely with the tap water. I'm thinking about putting this together:

http://www.brewmorebeer.com/building-a-water-filter-for-brewing/

And using that in coordination with campden tablets.

I also plan on calling the water company referencing back to this thread I posted last year (I've just busy and hadn't got around to it yet I never forgot).

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=548732

 

[Osborne]

Info on BIAB sparge methods. Mine comes highly reccomended
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?p=7492549

That's a really ingenious setup.

 

[m00ps]

question:
...whats your question?

 

[Osborne]

question:
...whats your question?

Is this worth it?

http://www.brewmorebeer.com/building...r-for-brewing/

 

[m00ps]

hmm i dunno. That thing looks like a basic filter that seems similar to a brita filter. I use one of them (attached to the sink) for my brewing water, but I havent had a lot of issues with water chemistry. The brewery down the street doesnt do much of anything to treat their water either

If you want to treat your water, youd probably need to purchase reverse osmosis water and build up the mineral profile to suit the beer you are brewing. But making the jump to all grain and doing water chemistry stuff at the same time might make ti had to pinpoint any issues with your whole process. Unless you know that there are issues coming from water chemistry in your beers, I would hold off on it

 

[BeardedBrews]

Is this worth it?

http://www.brewmorebeer.com/building...r-for-brewing/

I use one of these: http://www.walmart.com/ip/14504321

Same idea, just doesn't have the removable filter, and costs less. One thing I'll mention is that it's worth getting a "potable water hose" so that you don't get that garden hose stink in your brewing water. Even the filter doesn't get that out.

If you're going to buy a water filter, do yourself a favor and buy a $10 0.1gram scale from Amazon and some CaCl and Gypsum from your home brew shop.

 

[Osborne]

hmm i dunno. That thing looks like a basic filter that seems similar to a brita filter. I use one of them (attached to the sink) for my brewing water, but I havent had a lot of issues with water chemistry. The brewery down the street doesnt do much of anything to treat their water either

If you want to treat your water, youd probably need to purchase reverse osmosis water and build up the mineral profile to suit the beer you are brewing. But making the jump to all grain and doing water chemistry stuff at the same time might make ti had to pinpoint any issues with your whole process. Unless you know that there are issues coming from water chemistry in your beers, I would hold off on it

But won't it improve the taste? I've had water that was filtered plenty of times, and it does seem to taste a lot better.

 

[Osborne]

I use one of these: http://www.walmart.com/ip/14504321

Same idea, just doesn't have the removable filter, and costs less. One thing I'll mention is that it's worth getting a "potable water hose" so that you don't get that garden hose stink in your brewing water. Even the filter doesn't get that out.

If you're going to buy a water filter, do yourself a favor and buy a $10 0.1gram scale from Amazon and some CaCl and Gypsum from your home brew shop.

Ah cool thanks, I already have a drinking water hose, and plan on getting another. Another issue with the garden hoses is a lot of them aren't lead free.

I'll keep that in mind!

 

[Osborne]

I think my burner from Northern Brewer, and wort chiller will suffice. But I don't know if my 8 gallon kettle is big enough.

I think this account is a bot or something. Check the image tags when you quote.

It just repeated one of my sentences lol.