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Keep it in the fridge and buy a couple bags of ice? Hope it's a well insulated fridge?
My fridge died yesterday, that's kind of the problem. Nothing much to do about it now. I'll taste it in a couple days and just dryhop the **** out of it if it's bad
 
5, brewed Saturday
Then it's probably done fermenting right? I wouldnt expect a lot of harshness out of it, but I'd sample it for diacetyl. Maybe just go ahead and package it if it's hit FG and no off flavors. But I wouldnt let it sit baking on the yeast cake for more than a few days.
 
Then it's probably done fermenting right? I wouldnt expect a lot of harshness out of it, but I'd sample it for diacetyl. Maybe just go ahead and package it if it's hit FG and no off flavors. But I wouldnt let it sit baking on the yeast cake for more than a few days.
Dunno, it's still bubbling pretty actively and it's been out of the broken fridge for two full 30/35 Degree days. Could the active airlock be because of the heat as well?
Guess I'll take a sg reading when I get home
 
My fridge died yesterday, that's kind of the problem. Nothing much to do about it now. I'll taste it in a couple days and just dryhop the **** out of it if it's bad
Lipstick on a pig and probably not worth the cost of the hops. Sometimes things out of your control just don't work out and you have to cut your losses and dump it.
 
The heat killed my fermentation fridge, and it's going to be a 95 degree day. What do you guys think, will that kill my wit fermenting with WLP400?
Grab some pilsen, wheat, hops, and a batch of DuPont yeast. You'll have a nice saison completely fermented out in about a week at those temps.
 
Edlerflowers. I have some 1-2 year old wild ales I want to blend and bottle. I'm thinking about dry hopping it with elderflower and seeing how that tastes. Anyone have experience with this?
 
Stepping up from 5/10g batches to potentially 20/25g batches and am sort of undecided on which way to cool. I'm in Orlando so the groundwater is always hot. I'm stuck between a counterflow and the Jaded Hydra (IC) for doing the bulk of cooling before the chest freezer takes care of the rest. Kind of wary about all of the cleaning concerns with a plate chiller. How are you guys chilling these big batches?
 
Stepping up from 5/10g batches to potentially 20/25g batches and am sort of undecided on which way to cool. I'm in Orlando so the groundwater is always hot. I'm stuck between a counterflow and the Jaded Hydra (IC) for doing the bulk of cooling before the chest freezer takes care of the rest. Kind of wary about all of the cleaning concerns with a plate chiller. How are you guys chilling these big batches?

I think you would be fine with either but would suggest getting a small sub pump ($10 @ Harbor Freight) using that in bucket of ice to knock out. You will hit pitching temps pretty quickly as long as the wort is moving.
 
Stepping up from 5/10g batches to potentially 20/25g batches and am sort of undecided on which way to cool. I'm in Orlando so the groundwater is always hot. I'm stuck between a counterflow and the Jaded Hydra (IC) for doing the bulk of cooling before the chest freezer takes care of the rest. Kind of wary about all of the cleaning concerns with a plate chiller. How are you guys chilling these big batches?
If I was doing 20 to 25, I'd go with a plate chiller without a doubt. I do 10 gal and can do upto 20. I use an immersion chiller to knock temp down to 100F (and at my wife's insistence the outflow goes to a sprinkler to water the yard), then I submerge a pump into a 5 gallon bucket full of ice water and have a closed recirculating loop. With the whirlpool going, this is very effective and 14lbs of ice can get 10g down to 68. More ice for lagers.

Now, I have also bought 2 plate chillers. A blichmann and a smaller one. Someday I'll get around to using them, but I'd use the smaller chiller for groundwater chilling, then move to ice water being pumped through the blichmann.

If concerned about trub, you can always use a hop rocket and use it full of hops to act as another filter, or pack it with a sanitized nylon hop bag to catch stuff.
 
liquiddegenerate, I'll definitely be using a pump. Work figured it would be a good idea to buy me a MB BrewSculpture so I'll have two.

Phischy, I'll have to look into the Therminator a bit more. I've been using an IC for the last few years, sometimes with a pond pump, but would hate to see the water consumption trying to cool a big batch.
 
If really worried, back flush it immediately after use, use compressed air to blow it clean, then bake it to sterilize it. That would be my process cuz they worry me.
 
TFW the local peach orchard hits you up to let you know they're selling bruised peaches for $.75/#
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Any recommendations for the water profile on a vienna lager?

I dig the "Balanced" profiles from Bru'n water for my lagers lately. Either Yellow Balanced or Amber Balanced, depending on the color you are shooting for with your Vienna. They have a touch more SO4, which I feel helps with that typical lager "crispness."

My buddy actually does the Bitter ones (Yellow Bitter, Amber Bitter) for the same reason, but so far I've had success with the Balanced ones.
 
Any recommendations for the water profile on a vienna lager?
I dig the "Balanced" profiles from Bru'n water for my lagers lately. Either Yellow Balanced or Amber Balanced, depending on the color you are shooting for with your Vienna. They have a touch more SO4, which I feel helps with that typical lager "crispness."

My buddy actually does the Bitter ones (Yellow Bitter, Amber Bitter) for the same reason, but so far I've had success with the Balanced ones.
These are the numbers recommended by Martin Brungard:

Ca 27 ppm
Mg 15 ppm
Na 10 ppm
SO4 60 ppm
Cl 15 ppm
HCO3 80 ppm
 
These are the numbers recommended by Martin Brungard:

Ca 27 ppm
Mg 15 ppm
Na 10 ppm
SO4 60 ppm
Cl 15 ppm
HCO3 80 ppm


So the profiles from his spreadsheet that I mentioned would at least get you in that ballpark. But great to hear something directly from the man himself. I'm definitely going to save this in one of the Bru'n Water "Custom" fields.

(I use 100% distilled water, so I don't add Bicarbonate. So naturally that'll always be a 0 for me.)
 
So the profiles from his spreadsheet that I mentioned would at least get you in that ballpark. But great to hear something directly from the man himself. I'm definitely going to save this in one of the Bru'n Water "Custom" fields.

(I use 100% distilled water, so I don't add Bicarbonate. So naturally that'll always be a 0 for me.)
I had heard that the Vienna water profile is pretty hard which didn't make much sense for the style but Martin mentions boiling the water to precipitate minerals which makes a lot of sense.
 
I was going to experiment with adding dregs to a saison. Would it make sense to add some wild dregs to my 3711 starter or should i just add them after primary fermentation is done?
 
I was going to experiment with adding dregs to a saison. Would it make sense to add some wild dregs to my 3711 starter or should i just add them after primary fermentation is done?
Either works, depends on what you're looking for. When I use 3711 I usually add dregs in secondary. That yeast benefits a lot from the addition of brett and/or dry hop.
 
Either works, depends on what you're looking for. When I use 3711 I usually add dregs in secondary. That yeast benefits a lot from the addition of brett and/or dry hop.
What would be the differences in what I'm looking for? I was going to add some lambic and saison bernice dregs, but I don't really have a game plan for anything else.
 
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