Irish Red Ale Raging Red Irish Red Ale
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Man, this looks good! I have this glass. Was sent 2 of these glasses several years ago comps of Boston Beer Company (Jim Koch) for being an AHA member. Unfortunately, over the years, one was broken. I know only have 1 left. Very nice glass!
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Srm is the “standard reference method” pertaining to color of the beer. Rationator above is basically saying he may remove some grains to lighten the color of the beer. The darker the beer the higher the srm.
If you use Beersmith when you add grains it will predict the “SRM” beer color. You can use this as a guide so when your making a blonde ale you don’t screw up and end up with a stout. Although color may not seem as important you would be surprised how much we drink with our eyes.
If you want to test this brew a black IPA and serve to you friends.
If you use Beersmith when you add grains it will predict the “SRM” beer color. You can use this as a guide so when your making a blonde ale you don’t screw up and end up with a stout. Although color may not seem as important you would be surprised how much we drink with our eyes.
If you want to test this brew a black IPA and serve to you friends.
Chituma
Porron Bastardo Microcerveceria
Mysticmead website is down. Somebody has downloaded the red ale recipe? Anyone has tried american hops? regards
It's on the 1st page. I have used citra and also did a citra/azacca with some dry hopping
Chituma
Porron Bastardo Microcerveceria
Thanks. What was the result switching to those hops?
It was alright, didn't suit the style too much tho. Masked a lot of the malt flavors I did another batch that I am gonna keg that with maris otter, carared, brewers gold and irish yeast. Will report back
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Has anyone tried a tuned down version of this recipe? I’d like to brew this and come in around 4.6%.
I left out the honey and came in at 4.8%.
I also omit the honey and add .5lb of honey malt
fendersrule
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Brewing this beer during this weekend. I'm a little stuck on what yeast to use...US-05 or S-04. S-O4 does have a nice following taste that goes good with "english" beers, and US-05 is more neutral/invisible to the taste.
Any recommendations? Both US-05 and S-O4 are awesome yeasts to use and attenuate about the same from my experience! But which one fits this style better? I'm leaning on S-04.
BUT...my hunch is that US-05 is more true to the original recipe.
Any recommendations? Both US-05 and S-O4 are awesome yeasts to use and attenuate about the same from my experience! But which one fits this style better? I'm leaning on S-04.
BUT...my hunch is that US-05 is more true to the original recipe.
Imo if your sticking with the original recipe use s-05. If your gonna use marris otter and make it english based than use wyeast 1084. There is really no reason to use s-04. I just brewed it with maris otter and used 1084 and having one as we speak and its delicious
Mic Carp
Loud Mic
My first venture into drinking craft beer, well in those days they were called micro beers, was a red in San Francisco back in1990 or so. I don’t recall the name but it got me hooked.
I haven’t been brewing long and just did my first BIAB and am looking forward to trying this out
Thanks for posting
I haven’t been brewing long and just did my first BIAB and am looking forward to trying this out
Thanks for posting
fendersrule
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Yay!
I clocked in at 1.063 SG.
My carboy is a bit full, but I have plenty of Star-stan’d blow off space.
This morning the yeast was off to the races, foaming halfway up the tube.
I clocked in at 1.063 SG.
My carboy is a bit full, but I have plenty of Star-stan’d blow off space.
This morning the yeast was off to the races, foaming halfway up the tube.
Silver_Is_Money
Larry Sayre, Developer of 'Mash Made Easy'
S-04 tastes tart in a nasty way (for lack of better terminology) to me, even if I ferment it at 63 degrees. I've given up on it.
Blastardius
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Just redid this with a better crush and some honey malt...kick ass recipe! Needs a few more days to carb but going on the regular tap list.
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How much honey malt? I have used 4oz for 5.5 gal batch with good results.
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Blastardius
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I used 8oz
Dude...use the thread search button. Your asking questions that have been answered already. I literally answer this question less than a page ago
Bro....
fendersrule
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Bottling tonight. I ended up at FG of 1.009 with a mash of 153F. Say hello to a 6.9% amber!
My first beer with treated water.
I drank the hydro tube and could taste a very subtle hint taste that honey was used. The beer had great body, and it is by far, the best amber I have ever made. I would enter this into a competition without question.
Now the gruesome wait for bottle carb....
But I've got to bottle my Lemon-Lime hefe soon, so I'll simple switch gears to that.
Bottling is no problem if you are making beer as much as I do...always something available.
My first beer with treated water.
I drank the hydro tube and could taste a very subtle hint taste that honey was used. The beer had great body, and it is by far, the best amber I have ever made. I would enter this into a competition without question.
Now the gruesome wait for bottle carb....
But I've got to bottle my Lemon-Lime hefe soon, so I'll simple switch gears to that.
Bottling is no problem if you are making beer as much as I do...always something available.
So I planned on kegging tomorrow but I am not sure. This batch has been going for 4 weeks in the fermenter. I went out tonight just as Rush " Red Barchetta " came on the radio. during that time I had 3 large burps and 4 small one bubble burps. Pulled a sample off the bottom and my reading was 1.020 . Question is should I let it ride or keg it up? I never had a batch of anything go more than 4 weeks.
Eric
Eric
fendersrule
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I've never had anything go more than 2 weeks unless I was dry hopping, or making a sour.
The only way to know if it's done is to wait another couple days then recheck.
Burping indicates very little, honestly. At best, it gives you a very very rough idea of activity. Finished fermentation will still burp because the "wort" (now beer) has some carbonation...enough for airlock activity. 3-4 burps during a Rush song to me could either mean there's still activity or it's still done. That's how useful it is.
To solve this confusion, don't let the fermenter "ride" for 4 weeks. I don't know why some people do this, when it's done, it's done. Better to have it age in bottles than ontop of yeast cake and hop trub. Instead, you should check it at the 10 day mark, then check it on the 14 day mark. In most cases, the readings are the same, indicating that it's done. If the measurement changes, try at the 16 day mark. No way most beers need more than that.
It may just be stuck at 1.020. How did you make it? What yeast? What mash temp? Fermentation temp?
Usually 1.020 indicates an unusually high mash temp (poor attenuation), or sub-optimal batch of extract if you are extract or partial mashing (similar to the first issue), or the honey you used had lots of non-fermentables in it.
When I was partial mashing, I had an partial mash habanero IPA that was "stuck" at 1.020 and the LHBS thought it was the best habanero IPA he's ever had. I told him the FG of it and he was surprised, so don't get too caught up.
Others may tell you, and I would mostly agree, to just keg it. There is no way that beer is still fermenting at 4 weeks. But again, if you wanted to play it safe, wait a couple days and recheck.
btw, when's the last time you calibrated your hydrometer? I just tossed one last week that was reading 05.5 too low.....
The only way to know if it's done is to wait another couple days then recheck.
Burping indicates very little, honestly. At best, it gives you a very very rough idea of activity. Finished fermentation will still burp because the "wort" (now beer) has some carbonation...enough for airlock activity. 3-4 burps during a Rush song to me could either mean there's still activity or it's still done. That's how useful it is.
To solve this confusion, don't let the fermenter "ride" for 4 weeks. I don't know why some people do this, when it's done, it's done. Better to have it age in bottles than ontop of yeast cake and hop trub. Instead, you should check it at the 10 day mark, then check it on the 14 day mark. In most cases, the readings are the same, indicating that it's done. If the measurement changes, try at the 16 day mark. No way most beers need more than that.
It may just be stuck at 1.020. How did you make it? What yeast? What mash temp? Fermentation temp?
Usually 1.020 indicates an unusually high mash temp (poor attenuation), or sub-optimal batch of extract if you are extract or partial mashing (similar to the first issue), or the honey you used had lots of non-fermentables in it.
When I was partial mashing, I had an partial mash habanero IPA that was "stuck" at 1.020 and the LHBS thought it was the best habanero IPA he's ever had. I told him the FG of it and he was surprised, so don't get too caught up.
Others may tell you, and I would mostly agree, to just keg it. There is no way that beer is still fermenting at 4 weeks. But again, if you wanted to play it safe, wait a couple days and recheck.
btw, when's the last time you calibrated your hydrometer? I just tossed one last week that was reading 05.5 too low.....
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Last bottle. Must make this one again!!
Brewed this one again today since my earlier 1.25 gallon batch was so good. This time I moved 6.5 gallons into the fermenter, should be enough to keg plus a few bottles. I underestimated on the cooling ice so I could only get it down to 76°. Moved it to the fermenter and will cool it overnight and pitch the yeast in the morning. OG came in at 1.062. Sample tasted very good.
Both times I added at flame out.
So good that by the time I got around to taking this pic everything was gone but the lacing.
Shenanigans
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Might give this a go in the near future.
Any preferred water profile?
Any preferred water profile?
