Quick questions about single tier build

[Gridlocked]

Hey everyone,

I just started to tack weld my single tier frame together and have a few questions:

1. Per the picture below, would there be any advantage to have my vertical posts in location "A" or location "B"? A would be lined up with the cross member that the outer kegs would sit on and B would be centered between the two. I don't know the exact thickness of the steel that I got but it's extremely solid stuff - a bit thicker than 1/8"

2. Should I drill small holes in each piece of tubing that is closed off to allow it to breathe? I will be running an external black gas pipe manifold.

Here is the frame as of last night

 

[Paulasaurus]

bump, any thoughts from the crowds or from single tier owners that might have some insight?

 

[mikelikesit2000]

The difference in strengh is minuit. I personally would use them in position B. Just like the way it looks better

 

[gregger]

Position B. You want the horizontal bars and vertical bars to share stress. The farther away the vertical bars are to the weight source (the burners), the more stress gets put on the horizontal bars (which results in slight bending). Position B is the best position for each burner/weight source. It doesn't matter anyway since this only matters when dealing with hundreds of pounds, so cosmetically, I say B works best.

I haven't heard on any of the DIY threads or online of people drilling holes. My experience is in structural/architectural, so, hopefully someone with better experience can give you a more adequate answer.

 

[JuanMoore]

Either support location will work fine, just do whatever you think looks best. Direct firing a sealed steel tube is a bad idea, so yes, I'd make sure the ones that will get hot are vented.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f11/warning-keggle-owners-please-read-41422/

 

[Gridlocked]

Thank you for all of the help! The steel is 14 gauge, so I don't think a few inches either will would cause the tubing to bend, but I am liking B more from an aesthetic standpoint, so I think that's where it will be going. I can always move it before it's there forever.

And thanks JuanMoore the keggle blowing up story is what made me think about putting a small hole or two in each sealed tube.

 

[Egbert]

I'd put the hole on the underside to facilitate drainage and prevent direct inflow of liquid.

 

[Gridlocked]

yeah, I wouldn't drill them into the top.

 

[mikelikesit2000]

Position B.

I haven't heard on any of the DIY threads or online of people drilling holes. My experience is in structural/architectural, so, hopefully someone with better experience can give you a more adequate answer.

I would definitely drill a small 1/8" hole in the pieces of tube steel near the burners at the very least. Just do it on the underside so it won't be seen.

 

[Randar]

is that 1.5" square tubing?

In my opinion the simple box frame is sufficient for stability and strength without the front-side vertical supports. If you place supports in the back but leave the front open to allow maximum configuration freedom, you will still be plenty sturdy to support the amount of weight you're looking at. You are talking about very moderate static loads here, so those steel supports are going to hold literally A TON.

 

[Paulasaurus]

Dang, thanks for the input everyone! Think we have our answers!

 

[Randar]

put one 5 ft long piece of that metal spanned across a couple of 2x4's and jump on it. Would be surprised if a large dynamic load like that would make even a slightly recognizable deformation of the tube.

edit: and if you're really worried about it you can put one support in the center of the front span (and you can have your pumps mounted on either side).

 

[Gridlocked]

Yeah, 1.5", 14 gauge, so it's stout stuff. I wanted to use the front supports to be mounting points for the gas piping, and since I already have the rears cut to length, I may as well use them too.

Edit. I like that idea.

 

[Randar]

Why not mount the gas pipes in the rear out of the way? Unless you're using ball valves to hand-control things?

IMO you will want to have as much open space in front as possible to avoid confusion and/or tangles of tubing and whatnot.

Also, I do find it fun that we all use such heavy duty steel tubing. These brew stands are stronger than auto frames and Class 1 tow hitches rated to 2,000 pounds (where dynamic load is several times that weight).

But I agree it needs to look sturdy to be cool! (Mine is same guage/size as yours, so this is tongue in cheek for sure!)

 

[Gridlocked]

Again, thanks for the help!!! The plan was to use the ball valves to control the flame for each burner. This is obviously the first time either Paul or myself have done this, so any help is much appreciated. We've just been going by what we've found on forum or net searches.

 

[Randar]

No problem and good luck. There is no right way or wrong way here, obviously. I have a stand and have not yet used/finished it, so I love seeing these builds and all the different ways people cook them up and evolve them.

 

[BendBrewer]

Also, I do find it fun that we all use such heavy duty steel tubing. These brew stands are stronger than auto frames and Class 1 tow hitches rated to 2,000 pounds (where dynamic load is several times that weight).

But I agree it needs to look sturdy to be cool! (Mine is same guage/size as yours, so this is tongue in cheek for sure!)

Totally agree. I am in the process of building mine and got to thinking that I could have gotten away with 1" tubing no problem. Maybe even smaller. This thing is a freaking tank and will last longer than anything I own.

 

[Randar]

Totally agree. I am in the process of building mine and got to thinking that I could have gotten away with 1" tubing no problem. Maybe even smaller. This thing is a freaking tank and will last longer than anything I own.

LOL. I have an e-mail from Lonnie himself saying as much. Turns out that's what he had "lying around" and it was way overkill, but super cheap (at the time).

Somehow it's become default in the process.

 

[dedhedjed]

mine is 1" square tubing and it doesn't flinch without center supports...you'll be more than fine.

 

[Gridlocked]

I really enjoy reading through all of these posts. I bet I've read them 9 times.

My very good buddy worked in the steel industry for about 10 years and now has his own side business. Of course I went to him for my steel and he just rattled off a bunch of numbers and thicknesses and said 2" would be silly overkill and that he would get me the tubing that I have now. He had his fab shop chop everything to length and he's taking his payment in beer. Talk about a win-win. As far as the tube diameter goes, I think you're exactly right, it has to LOOK beefy because it looks like there is a massive amount of weight on it. A few of the images that are out there are probably VERY structurally solid but look sketchy and just the pics make me nervous.

I hoped to work for a bit tonight but I opted out.

 

[Gridlocked]

Thanks for all of the help!
Below is the configuration that I went with. When I was working on it last night, I stood up on one of the 62" sections and stood. I'm about 180lbs and I jumped (not thinking about the tack welds but it held just fine) and did not get any flex in the tubing. At least it didn't feel like any flex. So, once I get a couple more pieces of steel tacked in place, I should be good to go.

 

[Dwain]

Gridlocked,
I can't tell how tall your rig is from the pix. Make sure that it won't be a PITA to work over after your casters are on. Like I said in another thread, one of my sons is vertically challenged. He had to use a ladder for dough in. I ended up cutting the frame down. Man, what a pi$$er. Luck, and keep the photos coming. - Dwain

 

[Paulasaurus]

Gridlocked,
I can't tell how tall your rig is from the pix. Make sure that it won't be a PITA to work over after your casters are on. Like I said in another thread, one of my sons is vertically challenged. He had to use a ladder for dough in. I ended up cutting the frame down. Man, what a pi$$er. Luck, and keep the photos coming. - Dwain

We're building two identical stands and at my impressive 5'8" stature I assure you i'll be able to dough in without having to use a step stool. Stand height with casters will be 25".

 

[JuanMoore]

Looking good. Keep us posted.

 

[Gridlocked]

Stand height will be 49" from the floor to the top of the keg. 6" casters, 20" tall frame, 23" tall keg. Paul did all of the homework when it came to the height and I think they'll be a good height.

 

[Jester]

Look great..!!! Post more pics throughout the entire build.

 

[FishFace]

you might want one to run lines and wires through. That would be my only thought. Structurally that could hold a car, or two. So for me it comes down to aesthetics and trying to hide some of the wires, pipes, etc...

Best of luck, I just finished my stand, just cranked on the Quickconnects and silicone tubing. Can't wait to brew. Need room in fermentation first, so something needs to get bottled,hmmm......

 

[Randar]

What are you planning to do fir the burner shields? Are you going to fabricate something out of sheetmetal or were you able to find something ready-to-use?

 

[skidkid267]

Nice looking stand. I'm with jester keep up with the pics. I am planning something similar and need to see builds like this happen to keep the creative juices flowing.:rockin: