Question for the cheapskates out there using plain old buckets for fermenting

[Hoochin'Fool]

Do you drill a hole in your bucket lid, insert a stopper, and airlock? Or do you just go with an intact bucket lid, but leave it loose enough for CO2 to escape?
After developing a crack in my lid, I'm leaning towards just leaving a non-drilled lid on, but not pushed in all the way around.

 

[z-bob]

I use a plain bucket lid that does not have a gasket but snaps on tight. I have to keep an eye on it; if the lid starts to bulge I burp it so it doesn't blow the lid off (that's never actually happened but I can see that it could happen and make a huge mess), then I snap it back on *most* of the way around but leave it unsnapped in one little spot so it can leak.

This is probably fraught with danger, so just last week I bought some more airlocks that came with rubber grommets. I'm going to drill at least one lid so I can snap it down and not worry about it.

 

[IslandLizard]

You can drill lids yourself, or buy them pre-drilled with a grommet.
IIRC, it's a 1/2" hole for a regular airlock grommet.

All my fermenter bucket lids are drilled to hold an airlock. In some I drilled an extra 1" access hole, opposite to it, so I can stream CO2 into the headspace while adding dry hops, syrups, or other stuff through it, or gently stir the beer with the back end of a long plastic brew spoon. That little "paddle" at the end is wonderful for that. I then flush/purge the headspace afterward, a few times.

That access hole gets a regular 1" rubber stopper.

 

[IslandLizard]

My standard "Propack Ropak" lids seem to seal well on standard 6.5 gallon brew buckets. I can pressurize the headspace.

I've never had a lid crack on me, but I do pry it off using both hands on one side, no tools. It can be tough sometimes to get it off, especially with wet or soaking Starsaned hands.

 

[Hoochin'Fool]

My first two beers were done with the bucket lid pressed down tightly but for a small section, just enough for air to escape.
But the urge to keep peeking at it told me it was time to just get a danged airlock. Worked just fine for next two brews, but this morning, after a 12 hour ferment, I decided to give my wort a little more aeration (since I wasn't using dry yeast). Swung it around a bit, and then noticed I'd swung it rather too violently. So far now, I've just got an undrilled lid resting loosely (lol, just like I started out hooching cider!).

 

[IslandLizard]

A piece of duct or gaffers tape, a bead of silicone or hot glue can seal that crack in a jiffy.^
At least for the time being.

 

[Hoochin'Fool]

The hardware store nearby sells new lids for $1.49, so I'll prob'ly go pick up a couple more tomorrow

 

[IslandLizard]

I use a 1" hole saw to drill holes in lids. I guess a step bit could be used?

I then smooth the edge with some fine sandpaper around a wooden muddler. A piece of a broom stick, or a thick dowel should work just a well.

 

[Hoochin'Fool]

This is probably fraught with danger, so just last week I bought some more airlocks that came with rubber grommets. I'm going to drill at least one lid so I can snap it down and not worry about it.

Yeah, you definitely don't want to seal the lid tight and rely on noticing it to bulge before you burp it! (*ask me how I know! Damn near sh*t meself with a very loud boom)...

Also, I saw your Porter recipe a couple weeks ago, and it sounded so easy and awesome, that I brewed it up yesterday (extract version). link

 

[Hoochin'Fool]

I use a 1" hole saw to drill holes in lids. I guess a step bit could be used?

I then smooth the edge with some fine sandpaper around a wooden muddler. A piece of a broom stick, or a thick dowel should work just a well.

I bought a set of step-bits for just this purpose (drilling holes in buckets), and found them too difficult to control the hole width.
The "spade"bits next to them work much better, imo.

...

 

[RM-MN]

There are two purposes for the airlock. The major one is to allow excess gas to escape without allowing bacteria or bugs to get into the fermenter. The minor one is to entertain the brewer with the stream of bubbles during the active fermentation.

I have other activities to entertain myself so I drilled a small (1/8") hole in the lid and taped a piece of Saran wrap over it, leaving one side without tape so the gas could escape without allowing bugs in.

 

[madscientist451]

I'm a cheapscate, and I started making wine/cider with buckets, but quickly realized that if I open the lid to pull a gravity sample, or when siphoning to another container, the risk of infection is greater compared to briefly pulling out a carboy stopper. So if I introduce something unwanted to my beverages, that will be of waste of money and time and so I figure using carboys for fermenting is worth the expense.

 

[Closet Fermenter]

I bought a set of step-bits for just this purpose (drilling holes in buckets), and found them too difficult to control the hole width.
The "spade"bits next to them work much better, imo.

View attachment 784893

...

I have used step bits to drill holes in the lid of my stainless steel fermenter so I could install a chiller coil and thermowell. It worked well, but I was using a drill press. Not only does that hold everything steady, but allows you to view the bit progress from the side.

 

[wsmith1625]

I bought a set of step-bits for just this purpose (drilling holes in buckets), and found them too difficult to control the hole width.
The "spade"bits next to them work much better, imo.

View attachment 784893

...

I usually drill a small pilot hole before drilling anything where precision matters. Holds the larger bit in place nicely.

 

[Witherby]

I used plastic buckets for many years until getting a Speidel. I have a mixture of loose lids and tight lids (all with rubber grommets and airlocks) but mostly brew styles that do well with open fermentation (English bitters, Franconian lagers, hefeweizen) so I would always start with a loose lid (and switch to the tight lid when fermentation was mostly done). You don't get any airlock action but the yeast was happier and no flies got in. And you never need a blowoff tube.

Williams Brewing sells a fermenter bucket with a transfer valve, which is great for taking gravity samples and easy transfers. They sell it for $34.99, but they also sell the valve and special invert tube backnut for $2.99 each, which is the cheapskate option I chose:

https://www.williamsbrewing.com/Hom...uipment/Valves-and-Small-Parts/Transfer-Valve
https://www.williamsbrewing.com/Hom...nt/Valves-and-Small-Parts/Invert-Tube-Backnut
"To install this in your bucket, first drill a 1” hole with a holesaw. Center the hole 2” from the bottom if you will be using the bucket as a primary fermenter, and want to use our Invert Tube Backnut. Center the hole 1 1/8” from the bottom of the bucket if you will be using the bucket as a bottling tank, and do not plan on attaching the Invert Tube Backnut. Put the white gasket on the valve first, so it is on the outside of the tank, not the inside when finished. These include a unique swivel feature; the barrel of the valve swivels so you can mount the valve very low in a bucket, and not have it contact a counter top when you put the bucket down. The flow rate is 1 gallon every 75 seconds. Works well with the Invert Tube Backnut, an accessory that turns this valve into a sediment avoidance valve. Or order Backnut E80 if you just need a standard backnut."

Highly recommended this as a cheapskate upgrade.

 

[TyTanium]

No need to overthink this. I'd recommend using a grommeted lid with an airlock.

Generally you'd never seal an intact lid on (boom), and as fermentation slows a loose lid (or cracked lid) can invite O2.

so I would always start with a loose lid (and switch to the tight lid when fermentation was mostly done).

Ditto. That's my go-to.

 

[wsmith1625]

I had the William's Brewing siphonless fermenter bucket with the invert tube backnut and loved it. It was a great design. There are also DIY options for the "cheapskates" out there.

This thread has a lot of good information and several designs on adding a dip tube to the fermenter spigot. I like the PVC option best. Keep in mind, once you use a dip tube (William's invert backnut or DIY design) you are transferring with a siphon. Once the siphon breaks, you cannot transfer any additional beer to your bottling bucket. A proper design should allow for minimal loss.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/threads/bottling-tips-for-the-homebrewer.94812/page-4

 

[geezerpk]

No holes in the lid, no sealed lids for me, and of course airlocks went to the never used drawer long ago. I place the lid firmly on the top then give it a bit of a seal with a 2.25lb. weight from dumbbell set. I'm firmly committed to the KISS principle.

 

[odie]

I used to use air locks. A few years ago I came across these "easy lids" at Lowes. They fit the standard 5/6/7gal buckets but do not have the gasket nor the reinforced locking lip. They snap on and off real easy. not completely airtight but tight enough. the lids will swell as CO2 increases and eventually it will bleed out or pop the lid on one side. I just don't completely snap it down on one side. just too easy and simple.

but I now mainly ferment in kegs.

it's gonna get air/oxygen anyway when it's bottling or kegging time. priming sugar takes care of that oxygen anyway.

 

[z-bob]

I used to use air locks. A few years ago I came across these "easy lids" at Lowes. They fit the standard 5/6/7gal buckets but do not have the gasket nor the reinforced locking lip. They snap on and off real easy. not completely airtight but tight enough. the lids will swell as CO2 increases and eventually it will bleed out or pop the lid on one side. I just don't completely snap it down on one side. just too easy and simple.

but I now mainly ferment in kegs.

it's gonna get air/oxygen anyway when it's bottling or kegging time. priming sugar takes care of that oxygen anyway.

Those sound like the black lids I get at Home Depot.

 

[FromZwolle]

A piece of duct or gaffers tape, a bead of silicone or hot glue can seal that crack in a jiffy.^
At least for the time being.

i've had no trouble with this solution a few times.

 

[passedpawn]

I use a 1" hole saw to drill holes in lids. I guess a step bit could be used?

I then smooth the edge with some fine sandpaper around a wooden muddler. A piece of a broom stick, or a thick dowel should work just a well.

Maybe add a deburring tool to your toolchest. Cleans up the edges of a drilled hole in a jiffy. Be gentle when using on plastic though.

 

[M-Plumber]

I use a plain bucket lid that does not have a gasket but snaps on tight. I have to keep an eye on it; if the lid starts to bulge I burp it so it doesn't blow the lid off (that's never actually happened but I can see that it could happen and make a huge mess), then I snap it back on *most* of the way around but leave it unsnapped in one little spot so it can leak.

This is probably fraught with danger, so just last week I bought some more airlocks that came with rubber grommets. I'm going to drill at least one lid so I can snap it down and not worry about it.

I used glass carboys for yrs. Blew the dust out of my wallet and purchased a couple Fermonsters with spigot. Love'm.

 

[IslandLizard]

Maybe add a deburring tool to your toolchest. Cleans up the edges of a drilled hole in a jiffy. Be gentle when using on plastic though.

Sorry, they're way too aggressive on plastic. Fine, followed by very fine grit sandpaper is the right tool for that job. Wound around a dowel or other round object.

 

[Hoppy2bmerry]

My first two beers were done with the bucket lid pressed down tightly but for a small section, just enough for air to escape.
But the urge to keep peeking at it told me it was time to just get a danged airlock. Worked just fine for next two brews, but this morning, after a 12 hour ferment, I decided to give my wort a little more aeration (since I wasn't using dry yeast). Swung it around a bit, and then noticed I'd swung it rather too violently. So far now, I've just got an undrilled lid resting loosely (lol, just like I started out hooching cider!).

View attachment 784891

Next time do not drill the center, probably won’t be as likely to split.

 

[IslandLizard]

Next time do not drill the center, probably won’t be as likely to split.

That's what I was thinking too!

Besides, 2 holes, each toward the edge, and opposite from each other, allows you to stream CO2 into the headspace while working on the beer through the other.

 

[z-bob]

I used glass carboys for yrs. Blew the dust out of my wallet and purchased a couple Fermonsters with spigot. Love'm.

I still have glass carboys but I seldom use them (I'm a little afraid of them) I bought a bunch of disposable 4-gallon carboys full of bottled water and I use those. Light weight, mostly unbreakable, but they are a little hard to clean. The hard-to-clean part and because it's easy to add sanitized ice bottles are why I've started using buckets again for the start of the fermentation. Also makes it possible to top-crop the yeast.

I'm tempted to get a conical fermenter with a dump valve on the bottom. But I'd need a place to put it. Little Bigmouth Bubblers from NB look good for 1 gallon batches. So many things to spend money on, if you're the sort who spends money

 

[Hoochin'Fool]

Next time do not drill the center, probably won’t be as likely to split.

The absolute DUMBEST part of my aeration attempt was that it already had a good head of krausen going, and I left the lid on with the airlock in while I was shaking the bucket, so it was never actually going to get a whole lot of oxygen in anyways -- probably didn't accomplish much besides sucking in some star-san. But I bet you're right, that center divot is probably the weakest spot on the lid.

 

[Hoochin'Fool]

Besides, 2 holes, each toward the edge, and opposite from each other, allows you to stream CO2 into the headspace while working on the beer through the other.

Hey now, this was supposed to be a "cheapskate" thread!

 

[IslandLizard]

Hey now, this was supposed to be a "cheapskate" thread!

You can make it as cheap as you want, can, or imagination allows...

You can capture fermentation CO2 in a large (mylar) balloon (or kegs).
Then connect the neck, the skinny part (or the valve) of the balloon to your fermenter and squeeze it to flush your headspace with CO2.
Many of us replace the airlock with such balloon when cold crashing beer.

 

[Hoochin'Fool]

That's brilliant, actually -- thanks for the tip! (re mylar balloon)

 

[jtrainer]

Been using buckets for 23 yrs. I average 2-3 yrs per. I've had 1 infected batch.

I add a spigot to each bucket. For the airlock I add a large hole for a bung. Large enough for my their to get a sample.

After goofing with corny kegs as a fermentation vessel I went back to buckets. I am planning to try a fermzilla of sorts. Just to try this pressure fermentation.

Sometimes I think we over think the equipment.

 

[Hoochin'Fool]

I add a spigot to each bucket. For the airlock I add a large hole for a bung. Large enough for my thief to get a sample.

I got frustrated trying to clean my siphon (too long to submerge in my sink), so I've now put spigots on my fermenter as well.
Question tho, why can't you take a sample from the spigot? That's what I've been doing on my latest batch, working great so far...

 

[jtrainer]

I got frustrated trying to clean my siphon (too long to submerge in my sink), so I've now put spigots on my fermenter as well.
Question tho, why can't you take a sample from the spigot? That's what I've been doing on my latest batch, working great so far...

You can. However I bought my thief for carbons and just kept using it. I have sampled from the spigot. Just have to rinse clean. Add to that your diptube you may pull trub.

 

[Hoochin'Fool]

Just have to rinse clean.

Yikes, hadn't thought of that!

 

[Witherby]

Yikes, hadn't thought of that!

That’s why you need a spray bottle full of starsan. Blast the valve after taking a sample. Easy peasy.

 

[skeeterman]

You can drill lids yourself, or buy them pre-drilled with a grommet.
IIRC, it's a 1/2" hole for a regular airlock grommet.

All my fermenter bucket lids are drilled to hold an airlock. In some I drilled an extra 1" access hole, opposite to it, so I can stream CO2 into the headspace while adding dry hops, syrups, or other stuff through it, or gently stir the beer with the back end of a long plastic brew spoon. That little "paddle" at the end is wonderful for that. I then flush/purge the headspace afterward, a few times.

That access hole gets a regular 1" rubber stopper.

I guess I combined both those ideas into one. I drill a 1 1/4 inch where the usual gromment hole is. A #8 drilled stopper fits well. This way, the CO2 is vented and I can pull the stopper to add something. Or just to admire and sniff.

 

[Worf]

Sometimes I think we over think the equipment.

I'll drink to that... (lifts pint of red ale)

I used buckets for quite some time, then moved to [plastic] 30L Speidels. Only have two and am considering increasing production, so may have a couple buckets too.

I always have a good-grade bucket on hand for submersing my bottles in sanitizer on bottling day...

 

[mattdee1]

My main fermentor is now a Fermzilla All-Rounder, which I mostly like for its ability to hold pressure.

But I still use my buckets. They're not glamorous but they sure have great bang-for-your-buck. Also, they're dead simple to clean and much easier to lug downstairs to my fermentation fridge than most other options.

 

[skeeterman]

I bought a set of step-bits for just this purpose (drilling holes in buckets), and found them too difficult to control the hole width.
The "spade"bits next to them work much better, imo.

View attachment 784893A circle w

...

Maybe you should check into hole bits. These are a metal circle with teeth and a mandril. I agree on the taper bit. I use a 1 1/4 hole bit. A #8 drilled stopper fits well.