I guess another way to ask the question is BIAB versus K-RIMS...as BrewEasy is a widely available K -RIMS system, I thought it would be useful as a comparison.....so folks could google it and see one.....
yeah... Dont know if this is some kind of joke but you definitely dont want to google "k-rims" for images....
I think is can be fairly easy... They both are systems to make beer right?How do you compare a commercially-produced, high-quality brewing system with an excellent brand name in the (home)brewing industry carrying a warranty (BrewEasy) versus a style of lautering (BIAB)?
Here's my comparison:
-For a bunch of money you get a lot of metal and electrical gadgets in a turnkey system with support and a warranty.
-For a couple bucks you get a bag.
I think is can be fairly easy... They both are systems to make beer right?
You can compare the price, vs functionality and pros and cons of each homebrewing system with BIAB one would have to pick a specific setup (colorado, brewboss, DIY / rims or no rims)
The support and warranty could be had on either depending on what turnkey system you go with and thats also reflected in the price so it may not necessarily be a plus for a handy person...
BrewEasy:
BIAB:
the brewesay is just a fancy looking version of a rims system with a mashtun and dual duty boil kettle/hlt from wahat I can see...
Your automatically comparing an extremely basic homemade biab setup to this commercial setup to make your point... point made... Now I think we both are smart enough to figure out the OP was more of less comparing the two processes looking for the advantages of each.. it would be fair to compare how a traditional BIAB setup works vs this breweasy and start from there and then compare the options on the BIAB systems...
cost would be one advantage the BIAB has. I cringe to think of how many commercially sold BIAB systems you can buy for the cost of that one breweasy setup... They could plate the whole thing in gold and still make a decent profit with what they charge..great looking setup but not practical from an economical standpoint... if moneys not a concern its a great option.
BIAB would be smaller and have easier cleanup. if your brewing 10 gallon batches you may need a hoist depending on your age/ physical condition. A rims would be benefical too if not already added to the BIAB.
I built a nice stainless breweasy type, tried it and went right back to my recirculating Biab.
The BE system did nothing more than the Biab but was harder or rather slower to clean, took up more space and was generally less convenient.
If clear wort is for some reason important to you, remembering that clarity doesn't effect the final beer, than the BE is the way to go also possibly more pride of ownership the BE is very shiny!
Somebody mentioned a warranty, my Biab is so simple none is needed, a solar pump, a cheap pid and a SSR and I mustn't forget a heating element.
Atb. Aamcle
I use a 16 gallon stainless bayou classic kettle as a mash tun... I have a false bottom with a bazooka tube under it and braided screen inside that. This has been completely foolproof as far as stuck sparges in about 55 brews now.. I find the kettle easier to just carry out to my compose bin and dump there.
augiedoggy,
I am with on the thought that cleaning the mashtun vice a bag would be easier....also good point with BIAB on needing to clean a bucket or whatever you put the wet mashbag in....
I've always thought the upgrade to a false bottom would be fantastic so I'm shocked to hear you need an extra layer or two of protection with a false bottom.
Others have mentioned the chore of needing an extra bucket but I just don't see how that is an issue. I normally have a bucket for things that drip like my mash paddle so it isn't really an "extra" item for my procedure. More importantly, I'm shocked to hear that people consider cleaning a "drip" bucket a chore. For me it's just a rinse and a quick wipe.
I don't have a drip bucket so it WOULD be an extra item to clean. I also wouldn't consider it a chore (quick rinse and wipe should be sufficient), but when folks make an attempt at persuasion then every-little-thing becomes such a big deal
On the other hand, I also hear people say cleaning their kettles is an easy "rinse and quick wipe" and I can't imagine that for anything but my HLT (and then maybe just a quick wipe with a towel). I can definitely recall the amount of time it takes me to clean my MT or BK because it's never quick. But I can't recall spending any time on a drip bucket (or HLT) because it's usually over before I have time to think about it. I cringe to think how gross my MT or BK would be with just a quick rinse and wipe.
I agree, without a little elbow grease that hotbreak ring and break buildup on the bottom is not coming off. Much more effort in my BK than MLT/HLT combined (or drip bucket if I used one).
I assume this is usually said by people who have pumps. Even then I assume some scrubbing would be needed. After my next system upgrade I'll know for sure.
I have a chugger for over almost 2 years now - still haven't used it (or needed it); maybe one day. I just loath the idea of another piece of equipment to pull out, clean, and put away. I'm more of a minimalist with most things - just haven't setup a BIAB test system yet. The idea appeals to me, it's the logistics of how I would want to do it (and where) hold me back.
Honestly I spend more time cleaning my stainless hop sider basket than anything else after brewing...
I read over and over of all the high efficiencies people are getting with BIAB and I am curious on how this is happening with no sparging myself? Is there some other method or sparging some people use like sprinking water over the hangign bag of grain? That would seem a bit messy to me?
I have yet to brew with a false bottom in my MT but I've used a bazooka and braided screen before. Is it common for a false bottom to let a ton of grain get by? I can't see why you need a triple layer to prevent a stuck sparge. Plus, doesn't it all come down to the first layer (the false bottom) getting stuck? If everything compacts on the false bottom it doesn't matter how many layers are under it.
I only had one stuck sparge with the bazooka tube and that was my fault for not getting rice hulls on a recipe that needed it. I've always thought the upgrade to a false bottom would be fantastic so I'm shocked to hear you need an extra layer or two of protection with a false bottom.
thats good news but if I had a nickel for all the times someone complained about these pumps seizing up I would be rich... They got quite a bad rap for it. I just took precautions to prevent the opportunity for that to happen.My Jaybird false bottom did pretty well. I'd get some small grain particles through, sure, but nothing ever clogged my small DC pumps. No big pieces could get through.
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