POS Fridge's on CL, EBay, etc...

[Slipgate]

Cost savings you get by buying a new energy efficient refrigerator vs an old used POS.

Costs to run the average 20 cf fridge:
fridge built before 1980 - $225/year
fridge built between 1980-89 - $176/year
fridge built between 1990-99 - $100/year
fridge built after 2000 $50/year (Energy Star - $43)

For under $500 (more if on sale) you can get a current Energy Star fridge ($40-$50/year usage costs)

Figure you paid about $100 used, so $400 more for a new fridge. The ROI can be as little as 2 years for buying a new, energy efficient fridge vs an old, non-efficient fridge. And of course a new fridge is new, warranty, looks better, no cleaning needed, no chance of a dead body being stored in it, etc.

So think about that before cheaping out to save every last penny on capitol costs when your burn rate is the more important numbers to look at.

 

[the_bird]

That's a big part of why I bought a new fridge from Home Depot for the kegerator (although I kinda wish I bought a chest freezer - but the principal is the same). $400 for a smallish, new fridge (I think 18 or 19 cuFt). EnergyStar. Plus, free delivery, which for me was worth something especially since it had to be lugged to the basement (I don't know Spanish, but I'm pretty sure the delivery guys were muttering something about me being a ****ing ******* on their way down the stairs).

 

[flyangler18]

With all due respect, the way we use fridges in a HB environment is quite different than a home use- so I'd expect the cost of operation to be much different.

For one, my basement kegerator fridge is opened maybe once a month, so the compressor isn't kicking on and off due to temperature losses when the door is opened. And with the amount of mass in my kegerator, those temps stay pretty solid.

 

[Bobby_M]

It's the same for a fermentation machine. I only have mine set at either 55 or 68F for maybe 10-20% of the year and it's also not opened often. The ROI would be closer to 10 years for me.

 

[Loweface]

Not to forget the potential for breaking it (and its warrenty) when you sink that hole saw into the top!

As much as a lovely new fridge would be great, the second hand one I bought will be run infrequently as it is more a party thing...

 

[Homercidal]

Am I missing something here, or won't a newer fridge STILL save money, no matter how often you open the thing, because you are opening them both up an equal amount? I mean, I think the cost savings doesn't come from opening the thing up, but simply better insulation, and more efficient A/C designs.

So, you'd still get a ratio of cost savings similar to the above, but probably won't even cost that much, since you will be opening it less often, and probably running it not as cold.

 

[Jaysus]

good info here

 

[Bobby_M]

Am I missing something here, or won't a newer fridge STILL save money, no matter how often you open the thing, because you are opening them both up an equal amount? I mean, I think the cost savings doesn't come from opening the thing up, but simply better insulation, and more efficient A/C designs.

So, you'd still get a ratio of cost savings similar to the above, but probably won't even cost that much, since you will be opening it less often, and probably running it not as cold.

It's just a matter of how long the payback period is. The OP's point was based on a ratio of yearly energy savings to the difference between the cost of a new unit and old unit. The breakeven point of 2 years was based on ratings of typical usage (daily opening of a fridge set to about 40F).

The real world usage of a brewer's fridge is much less energy intensive to the point where a new unit would cost $30 a year to run and an old clunker would be like $60. If a new unit costs $300 more, it would take 10 years to break even on the up front purchase.


However, if you're trying to get a new fridge purchase past SWMBO, go ahead and use those numbers. They should work well.

 

[stevea1210]

Another thing that comes into play, at least it did for my kegarator build, was total up front cost. I got a $40 CL fridge. I spent around $450 on my kegging gear (4 tap setup).

If I had to factor in several hundred dollars instead of $40 for the fridge portion of our program, I would still be bottling, and saving more into the brew fund trying to get it all.

The last stage of my "upgrade plan" on my kegarator is to replace the CL fridge with a keezer. But that is an expense that can wait until further down the road.

 

[CatchinZs]

I've been searching CL for a few months now and can't seem to catch up with a used one. The resonably priced ones go quick....it seems like a lot of sellers don't understand depreciation value.

 

[jds]

I'm amazed by the number of people who think their $500 fridge from ten years ago is worth $350 today. Who's buying these things?

 

[Homercidal]

a new unit would cost $30 a year to run and an old clunker would be like $60. If a new unit costs $300 more, it would take 10 years to break even on the up front purchase.

Yep. I gotcha. Although, a new fridge might look lots better (depending on how cool that old fridge is. Some of them look pretty sweet, and some guys have skills to trick out their fridges).

I got a new fridge, simply because of the $ savings vs any old fridge I could find. Plus, it's a bit smaller, which is what I wanted in my new hobby room. Space is tight. I only have room for 2 corneys (maybe 3 if I pull out the door shelves, I can't remember), but there is tons of room for bottles, which I like because I usually keep many different beers on hand. Plus it has a freezer, which allows me to keep ice cream and ice handy too. It's a dual purpose fridge.

 

[GilaMinumBeer]

I am actually more fond of the "dent and ding" appliance stores than I am of the CL buys. For half the cost of a new unit, you get a new unit with a dent in it. And the warranty still applies (unless you use foremention hole saw through the door or lid).

I got my D&D Whirlpool 16 cubic foot chest for $125 this way. Brand new, energy star compliant, and with the warranty in place.

 

[slimer]

I just filled up my 1987 Montgomery Ward Fridge with 3 cans of Great Stuff. Put 2 cans in the fridge door and one in the freezer door and the efficiency of the fridge skyrockets.

I also put a hasp on the side of the fridge to prevent people from messing with my beers as well as keep the seals tighter.

I too am a fan of the dent and ding appliance stores. That's where I got my current fridge from. Paid $900 for an $1800 fridge and you can't see where the ding was because of the cabinetry. There's one about 2 miles from my house.

 

[Cpt_Kirks]

I scored a beater full sized fridge for $75 on CL today. Gotta pick it up after work tomorrow.

It has some...interesting mods. Apparently, the guy liked his beer COLD. He has removed the divider between the freezer and fridge compartments.

Looks like it will hold at least 4 cornies, maybe more. It will do for now, if I decide not to go all out on this one it will make an excellent Lagering fridge.