Please review my wiring

[NoCornOrRice]

This is the wiring I used for a single PID system with a 4500 watt element. I am really hoping someone will look it over before I plug the beast in!

Also, A huge thanks to Kal and P-J for providing inspiration.

EDIT: fixed attachment issue

 

[l3asturd]

Need to host this image externally so we can see the full size and zoom and such.

Try photobucket.com or something similar.

 

[l3asturd]

After studying the attachment I'll write up some things that come to mind. You don't really need to switch your neutral on your power relay coil , but it's not going to hurt anything if you do. Also, I don't see any wire protection, do you have circuit breakers or fuses not in the diagram (Besides the 40A CB)?

Here's the reason I ask: In a rare event, your power relay coil shorts, leaving you with a direct short from your black 120V to neutral (when your power switch is on). Without a fuse or CB your wire will be cranking up to 40A before your main breaker trips. The wire could (and probably will) melt before the 40A breaker trips, considering it's 14 gauge rated at 15A. It may just get hot enough to melt the insulation and expose the bare copper too.

I see your fuse 1 protects your pump wiring and PID, and fuse 2 protects the alarm wiring (which could be a .5 amp fuse instead of 4 amp). I'm just suggesting putting a coil voltage fuse, like a 1A fast acting. There are good odds that you may never blow that fuse, but if you do, you'll be glad it's there. Maybe you already did and it's not shown in the diagram.

 

[P-J]

After studying the attachment I'll write up some things that come to mind.
...

You are a better man than I am.
Getting old just plain sucks. I could not cypher the diagram and just gave up.

Congrats! Good job!

P-J

 

[runs4beer]

You are a better man than I am.
Getting old just plain sucks. I could not cypher the diagram and just gave up.

Congrats! Good job!

P-J

I couldn't eather.
P-J you've spoiled us (and I thank you for that).

 

[NoCornOrRice]

Thanks for looking. it is extremely unfortunate I can`t get the diagram to look decent and readable on the forum. I`ll try photobucket tomorrow

 

[NoCornOrRice]

Thanks for your patience. A friend commented one of my fuses was redundant, so the following drawing is slightly modified from the original diagram. Also, please note, in some cases a black wire runs close to the run of a yellow wire, but wires of different colours are never bonded.

I've never used photobucket before, so hopefully this will work:

http://s1266.photobucket.com/albums/jj539/brewing1/?action=view&current=ControlPanelphotobucket2.png

 

[l3asturd]

When you paste the link from photobucket, make sure you copy the link, that way it automatically shows up in the post.

Should look something like this:
[IMG][URL]http://s1266.photobucket.com/albums/jj539/brewing1/?action=view&current=ControlPanelphotobucket2.png[/URL][IMG]

[IMG]http://s1266.photobucket.com/albums/jj539/brewing1/ControlPanelphotobucket2.png

 

[l3asturd]

If your intention was to protect the Auber PID from overcurrent, that fuse was not redundant. The alarm contact on the 2352 can handle 3 amps (120VAC). Although unlikely, if something did short, you would have 4 amps on the alarm relay until the fuse blew. So to protect the PID alarm relay, you would need a fuse smaller than the current rating of the alarm relay. Since the actual alarm you'll be using draws less than an amp (Unless you're going with a big incandescent or strobe flashing alarm or something, which is not what your diagram shows) you should use a 1A fuse to protect the PID alarm relay. Your March pump draws over 2 Amps, so you'll need a seperate fuse to protect that, such as the 4 amp slow blow..

Do you have a Radio Shack nearby? If so, you can buy most type of fuses from there.

If I am mistaken, I hope someone will challenge this.

 

[NoCornOrRice]

thanks, yes I have The Source which bought out my local RS. It has a few fuses still, but its pretty basic