Please poke holes in my design for a new EBIAB-basket system

[BarryBrews]

You all may have noticed the fact that I'm 2 vessel with RIMS tube bullish! It's versatile and simple to operate. And easily produces clear wort at every turn.

 

[Jako]

If you connect a wort pump to a RIMS tube, like I showed above, and use this setup in every phase of the brew day you will have complete control of your wort production. There is no vessel flow balancing needed, temperature control is easy and your mash will be crystal clear after 60 minutes of continuous recirculation. And all with 1 pump! As for the function and clean up of a mash tun, use a false bottom and a brew bag and never worry about a stuck mash and also enjoy the easy cleanup afforded by the brew bag.

How the RIMS-Pump System works...duh?
1. Pumps water into boil kettle (BK) (from a RO water barrel), then recirculates and assists the BK bringing the water to strike temperature.
2. Pumps strike water via underletting the grist in the mash tun. I don't stir my grist. Joy killer?
3. Recirculates and temperature controls the wort during mashing. Lots of mashing profiles are possible with the BK adding an infusion step or the RIMS temperature stepping the mash.
4. Heats and pumps finished wort at "mash out" temperature to the BK.
5. Assists heating the BK wort to the boiling point. Using the RIMS-Pump System really speeds along the brew day.
6. Incorporating a Counter Flow Chiller into the RIMS-Pump System path (RIMS left turned off, of course) allows the wort to be cooled in the BK, which means all the trub, and hot and cold break are left in the BK and not transferred to the fermenter.

I realize a lot of you all use propane. The RIMS tube I use (brewhardware.com) uses a 120 volt 1650 watt element which can easily be incorporated into a propane system especially if you already use a pump. It might even be a gateway to an all electric system some day?

The attached picture shows my process during the post boil chilling phase. The mash tun, false bottom and brew bag are already cleaned at this point. Note the RO water barrel, the tipped mash tun table, the cart wheels, the simple silicone-barb connections and my "door hood" with fan hanging on hooks in the top of the door frame. All the equipment stores away very nicely.

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This is my exact build more or less at this moment. My rims heating element hated me and scorched all my wort.

 

[BarryBrews]

This is my exact build more or less at this moment. My rims heating element hated me and scorched all my wort.

I went electric about 3 years and 28 batches ago and have never had a scorching problem. With a RIMS the heating element must be turned off a minute or so before stopping the pump?

 

[Jako]

I went electric about 3 years and 28 batches ago and have never had a scorching problem. With a RIMS the heating element must be turned off a minute or so before stopping the pump?

I never timed it but I would let the pump run while I made sure boil kettle was ready for transfer.

 

[Bobby_M]

I love the idea of what you are saying but not sure how to effectively do a whirlpool and spray the top of the bed at the same time. Would a whirlpool be more important than to recirculation for the sytem? Should I install a 3 way valve on the pump outlet side so I can whirlpool and recirculate at the same time or rould it work well enough if the intake side were pulling from the whirlpool tube aimed at 45 degrees?

Love the idea but how do you do it in your system?

I definitely wouldn't describe the recirculation as "spraying" but this is how I do it:

 

[Jako]

I definitely wouldn't describe the recirculation as "spraying" but this is how I do it:

Dude I spent hours looking at parts last night to figure out a design like this