Please help me with my RIMS build.

[J311gonzo]

OK so I am ready to start buying parts for my rims build. I would like to have have an HLT with an element in it plus my RIMS tube. I will gas fire the BK. Does anyone out there have plans for a complete build?

Also does anyone have any expirence with ebrewsupply.com????

 

[atoughram]

Here is my rig which I'm updating to exactly your specification

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/brewery-update-448001/

I've been really impressed with ebrewsupply.com, good quality, fast delivery.

 

[J311gonzo]

Nice.... What made you go to 240 for your rims?

 

[atoughram]

Nice.... What made you go to 240 for your rims?

Slow ramp times on 120V for step mashes - I'm going from ~1100 Watts to 2Kw on the RIMS tube. Ramps were approximately between 2f/3min to 1f/min, going from 148f to 168f took 20-30 minutes.

Also consistency - I had to go 240 on the HLT.

I'll see on my first few batches whether or not I made the right decision, if not, it wont be hard to make it 120v on the RIMS again.

 

[MRMcGovern]

So I live in an apartment so I'm kind of stuck with what is already installed for circuitry... I'd like to build and electric RIMS, and for the time being continue using my electric stove for HLT and Boil.

I'm thinking about building something that will run on 120V 20A, using this for my PID, hooked to a GFCI outlet which will power a 5500w 240v water heater element (running at 120v ~1100w) in a rims tube, and a separately switched Chugger pump.

From what I've read many suggest that the pump should be integrated into the PID and element so that the element cannot be turned on without the pump being turned on.

Does anyone see any issues with using that PID? And any suggestions on whether or not the pump should be incorporated into that circuit? Any help is greatly appreciated!!! A bit apprehensive about clicking the checkout button on amazon until I know that this can work.

 

[acidrain]

I use the Mypin. It works pretty good after reading up on manual tweaking since the auto-tune didn't really work that well.
The instructions are in Engrish.
You get what you pay for.

 

[atoughram]

So I live in an apartment so I'm kind of stuck with what is already installed for circuitry... I'd like to build and electric RIMS, and for the time being continue using my electric stove for HLT and Boil.

I'm thinking about building something that will run on 120V 20A, using this for my PID, hooked to a GFCI outlet which will power a 5500w 240v water heater element (running at 120v ~1100w) in a rims tube, and a separately switched Chugger pump.

From what I've read many suggest that the pump should be integrated into the PID and element so that the element cannot be turned on without the pump being turned on.

Does anyone see any issues with using that PID? And any suggestions on whether or not the pump should be incorporated into that circuit? Any help is greatly appreciated!!! A bit apprehensive about clicking the checkout button on amazon until I know that this can work.

when I was using 120V, current flow when the element was firing was a bit over 12a, plenty of room on a 15a circuit. In an apartment, you probably cant come up with a 240V circuit so your only option is 120V. 120V RIMS works, I've made hundreds of gallons of good beer with my 120V system.

I had a small PLC sequencing the pump for a while - the PID Controller would call for heat (It was configured as an on/off thermostat), the PLC would turn the pump on, wait for 5 seconds or so, and then turn the element on. When the PID quit calling for more heat, the PLC would shut the elements off, wait for 10 seconds and shut the pump off. There was absolutely not advantage to that setup over leaving the pump run all the time.

For not much more $$ you can get an Auber SYL-2362 PID controller - you dont have to use Auber SSR's, the Fotek's will work fine. But the advantage of the Auber PID is the support, from Auber and from the people here. The 2362 is a very simple and effective PID controller. I'm very happy with it so far.