PID for boil

[DurtyDawg]

I built a MYPIN TA4 PID controller
for my claw hammer eBIAB. I built my own since I had a 20A circuit and wanted to use a 2000 watt element. I’ve brewed several times with it. I’m having trouble achieving a roiling boil. Maybe I don’t understand the logic.
Why can’t I just set the controller to 220 and the element will fire at 100% trying to reach the temp? It shouldn’t get over 212.

 

[augiedoggy]

You should be able to do just that because 2000w is very weak output for boiling more than 5 gallons. if the kettle isnt tall and narrow, insulated or covered you many not even have enough power to reach a boil at 100% power.
Most people have 240v and 4500 or 5500w and need to dial back the power output to achieve a consistent but not overpowering boil without starting and stopping over and over.

 

[DurtyDawg]

Claw hammer sells a 15 Amp controller they use to run a 1650 Watt element. They claim it will achieve a rolling boil if the lid is on and the vessel is insulated. Which mine is.
I seem to only achieve a small boil. Last night I set it at 230F and it got up to 220F with a small boil. I ran it back down to 212F being afraid of scorching the Wort.

 

[augiedoggy]

Claw hammer sells a 15 Amp controller they use to run a 1650 Watt element. They claim it will achieve a rolling boil if the lid is on and the vessel is insulated. Which mine is.
I seem to only achieve a small boil. Last night I set it at 230F and it got up to 220F with a small boil. I ran it back down to 212F being afraid of scorching the Wort.

your temp probe is not set up right or calibrated correctly as 212 is as high as it should read (regardless of setpoint selected above that)... higher than that would be steam. first make sure the temp probe is set to the correct pt100 setting then adjust the temp readout to be accurate with the offset setting.

 

[augiedoggy]

you can always just hold the set button down for 3 seconds and then set it to 100% in manual mode and it ignores the temp probe to see if thats your issue. scorching the wort will happen only depending on the watt density of your element... if its small and has little surface area compared to wattage. in manual mode you can try running the element at say 80% power which would be 1600 watts but if your element us lwd or ULWD you have no worries and can use the full 2000w without fear of scorching.

 

[DurtyDawg]

your temp probe is not set up right or calibrated correctly as 121 is as high as it should read... higher than that would be steam.

I think u meant 212. I calibrated the temp probe in ice water and adjusted the PUF setting +2 degrees. What am I missing here. It’s driving me nuts!!

 

[augiedoggy]

I think u meant 212. I calibrated the temp probe in ice water and adjusted the PUF setting +2 degrees. What am I missing here. It’s driving me nuts!!

I did , did you set the probe type to the pt100 and is that what you are using?

 

[augiedoggy]

sorry the TA4 does NOT have manual boil mode. disregard my post about using it. The TD4 does have manual boil intensity control. your either going to be full on at 100% power or off... meaning you will need to boil at 100% power constant or have the boil constantly starting and stopping every couple mins.

 

[DurtyDawg]

I did , did you set the probe type to the pt100 and is that what you are using?

I’m using a K type

 

[augiedoggy]

if your temp readout rises above 212 theres something wrong with the temp probe or setup. 212 should be like a hard wall and it should never go above that. in fact usually its boiling a couple degrees berore the readout reaches that point depending on your elevation.

 

[augiedoggy]

I’m using a K type

ugh... yeah ok so wire connections all have to be the correct type, length and soldered all the way I believe. I never had luck with those.

 

[augiedoggy]

You would save yourself a lot of grief by switching to an RTD like a pt100. like this...
https://www.ebay.com/itm/RTD-Pt100-...=124224673595fd678cffdd7e4025b35ef60980f1b9b3

 

[augiedoggy]

maybe someone else with more knowledge on the k type probes can chime in here, sorry.

 

[DurtyDawg]

Ok. Looks like a cheap fix. It’s a three wire vs my K type which has a two wire. Anything I need to know wiring this up?

 

[augiedoggy]

you'll want to search for a the wiring photos or use the schematics in the directions but its pretty straight forward... you will need a 3 pin connector