PicoBrew Zymatic

[Mike Howard]

I saw the part # a few months ago scanning the threads, thanks. I did a total disassembly/clean of them, nothing stuck, just a lot of build up. It seems most people switch both out at once, and possibly upgrade the flow rate. Does that seem to affect anything other than drain time?
I saw there is a guy up in Everett selling his zymatic. I was considering buying it for parts/extra step filter. Does it seem the pumps just slowly die? I kinda assumed it would just kick and not run anymore. Debating about how cost effective it would be to just get a backup system, or just the parts needed now.

On a side note, I have one of the original step filter, without the holes. I also got on second one with the holes, but no rubber plugs. Any suggestions on a replacement part for the plugs? I cant even find a decent picture of them

As for the step filter holes, just fill them with food grade silicone since you should be hand-washing them any way. Those holes were originally designed for draining when placed in the dishwasher. I have not found a source for those, but honestly, I have not looked.

I'm not sure a "spare parts" machine is necessary, given that we have outsourced nearly all of the parts on the unit. If it was a "good" price I might, but it would have to be a real good price.

I've never had a pump actually go bad and I use seaflo pumps all over our brewery for moving liquid. The pump heads will wear out though, due to the high temps, but they are unlikely to just quit. The edpm seals inside tend to wear out and not seal as well as they used to, which leads to diminished flow. I have two units where I replaced the drain pump with the slightly higher flow rate and one of those units has a matching wort pump and the other does not. If you do only replace one with the faster flow rate, make sure it is the drain pump. The difference between .7 lpm and 1.2 lpm is negligible performance-wise on the drain, but may have an impact if used only on the wort side.

I'm assuming, since you completely dismantled your unit, that you topped off the glycol. Be a shame to not do that, while you are there.

 

[Zachary Macmillen]

Yup, topped it off
I switched the two pumps(including electric) and it was still having the same issue. I then tried my second step filter and it drained fine. After looking around, the rubber skirt inside the drain hole was torn, probably restricting flow. I pulled it out, any ideas on a replacement piece? it appears to be a small rubber tube that pulls in on the end, unless the drain port is inserted in. Could I just replace it with a piece of silicone tubing, and deal with it dripping when removed?

 

[jm_maclaren]

I saw the part # a few months ago scanning the threads, thanks. I did a total disassembly/clean of them, nothing stuck, just a lot of build up. It seems most people switch both out at once, and possibly upgrade the flow rate. Does that seem to affect anything other than drain time?
I saw there is a guy up in Everett selling his zymatic. I was considering buying it for parts/extra step filter. Does it seem the pumps just slowly die? I kinda assumed it would just kick and not run anymore. Debating about how cost effective it would be to just get a backup system, or just the parts needed now.

On a side note, I have one of the original step filter, without the holes. I also got on second one with the holes, but no rubber plugs. Any suggestions on a replacement part for the plugs? I cant even find a decent picture of them

You can try and replace the drain pump with one with a greater capacity. e.g. BRAND NEW SEAFLO 12V DC 1.1GPM 70 PSI Water Pressure Pump for RV Boat Marine 647336945126 | eBay

versus this which is in the zymatic
SEAFLO 2.6LPM 0.7GPM 12V 1.2A 20PSI Water Pressure Pump SFDP1-007-020-21 735940184243 | eBay
which has a 1.1 gal/min vs 0.7.

I think Mike Howard has tried this.
James

 

[Mike Howard]

Yup, topped it off
I switched the two pumps(including electric) and it was still having the same issue. I then tried my second step filter and it drained fine. After looking around, the rubber skirt inside the drain hole was torn, probably restricting flow. I pulled it out, any ideas on a replacement piece? it appears to be a small rubber tube that pulls in on the end, unless the drain port is inserted in. Could I just replace it with a piece of silicone tubing, and deal with it dripping when removed?

That little silicone valve is a Cross Slit One Way Duck Check Valve. I've yet to be able to locate an exact match, but again I have not put a lot of effort into it since I found one that I shoe-horned into it.

I think I was searching for one that was 1/2" x 1/2" x 1/4" (13mm x 13mm x 6mm) or so and ran across that match on Amazon which has an ID of 8mm. I ended up ordering several different sizes and one of them worked. I never got back around to actually adding that item to the parts list, however, it is still on my "todo" list.

If you have some calipers, you can try to get a better measurement off the one you have and then just search for a close match. Silicone it in place with some food grade silicone and call it good for now.

 

[jiaoyuqiaoyu]

I bought a zymatic a used zymatic and it has fatal error 1 and error 17. I figured it need glyco. Is there any instructions on how to disassemble and top off the glyco? Thanks. @Mike Howard

 

[Mike Howard]

I bought a zymatic a used zymatic and it has fatal error 1 and error 17. I figured it need glyco. Is there any instructions on how to disassemble and top off the glyco? Thanks. @Mike Howard

PM Sent

 

[soniczero]

@Mike Howard I heard you are the guy to ask about the Zymatic Glycol Fill and Mod instructions.
Just picked one up and getting Error #1.

 

[Mike Howard]

@soniczero PM'd you

 

[Mike Howard]

Sorry folks, our brewery has been at a festival all weekend and I've been busy. If you need the glycol instructions, PM me and I'll give you my email address.

 

[seseeley]

@soniczero PM'd you

I would also like to know the Zymatic Glycol Fill and Mod instructions. Please PM me when you're done with the festival. Thanks, Steve

 

[Mike Howard]

@seseeley PM sent

 

[Agates]

I can walk you through how to set up your stepper arm so it aligns over each hole. I responded to your note about it.

Sorry to bother you about this 3 y/o post - but I'm having trouble with this and I really want to get it repaired before Christmas! Did you by any chance post a guide to fixing the stepper arm not aligning with the holes?

 

[Mike Howard]

Sorry to bother you about this 3 y/o post - but I'm having trouble with this and I really want to get it repaired before Christmas! Did you by any chance post a guide to fixing the stepper arm not aligning with the holes?

I never created an Alignment Guide for this procedure.

What I learned is that the physical disk controls the alignment of the arm. This means that alignment can be slightly off at some of the holes as the arm swings around. Your best bet is to align the arm at the HOME position and make fine tweaks until the arm stops at each location over the holes in the cover. It won't be perfect, but it shouldn't make a mess.

You can access the TEST MENU of the Zymatic and find the STEPPER STOPS menu item, to use while adjusting the position. There is a small "allen head" set screw in the Stepper Arm drive mechanism that will let you slightly adjust where the arm stops. This set screw will allow you to move the OPTIC DISK CLOCKWISE or COUNTER-CLOCKWISE, to adjust the stopping position of the arm as the disk breaks the LIGHT CIRCUIT in the OPTIC POSITION SENSOR.

PM me for more information.

 

[Agates]

I never created an Alignment Guide for this procedure.

What I learned is that the physical disk controls the alignment of the arm. This means that alignment can be slightly off at some of the holes as the arm swings around. Your best bet is to align the arm at the HOME position and make fine tweaks until the arm stops at each location over the holes in the cover. It won't be perfect, but it shouldn't make a mess.

You can access the TEST MENU of the Zymatic and find the STEPPER STOPS menu item, to use while adjusting the position. There is a small "allen head" set screw in the Stepper Arm drive mechanism that will let you slightly adjust where the arm stops. This set screw will allow you to move the OPTIC DISK CLOCKWISE or COUNTER-CLOCKWISE, to adjust the stopping position of the arm as the disk breaks the LIGHT CIRCUIT in the OPTIC POSITION SENSOR.

PM me for more information.

I just took the back off the machine last night and I was wondering how that worked - thank you! I can get that fixed pretty easily.

Unfortunately, it seems like the drain pump isn't turning on at all so that's going to be much trickier to sort out. I can't BELIEVE how difficult it is to get into that bottom compartment.

 

[Mike Howard]

@Agates I sent you a PM

 

[Mike Howard]

FYI for anyone needing to rebuild their Stepper Arm. When you put the arm back together, remember to use this (Haynes 80S Lubri-Film Plus) lubricant. If you don't use a good food grade lube, you will ruin the seals in a very short time.

Also, here is a link back to when I rebuilt my stepper arm for the first time.

 

[aviation6614]

Probably won't hurt anything...what are the temps for the Z series when normally operating? I am assuming they still have the three temp sensors.

Could I get the glycol mod need to add resovor as I have the fatal error one

 

[MInkermental]

Hello all - very long time lurker on these boards, and extremely appreciative of all the information shared. I was an early Zymatic brewer, and went for the Z2 upgrade before Pico went under. Maintenance practices seem to be about the same, however the Z series does have easier access to the hardware for glycol top ups, etc. And while most of the parts appear to be off the shelf, I had a recent thermal fuse failure for which I have not been able to source a supply. Hoping the brain trust can assist.

This thermal fuse is screwed to the back of the boiler in a Z system, and sits in between the relay and the heater element. I'm sure I can find a suitable 121c 250v contact fuse for another application, but this is the first time I have been unable to easily locate this exact part. Any ideas?

Appreciate the help, as I'm down one Z and drinking my way through my home brew backlog! Thanks!

 

[Mike Howard]

Could I get the glycol mod need to add resovor as I have the fatal error one

@aviation6614 we don't currently have a document for the reservoir build. If you search this thread you can see what others have done from a simple tube to the top to something more elaborate like an oil catch can.

I sent you a PM in case you were needing the Glycol Refill procedure

 

[Mike Howard]

Hello all - very long time lurker on these boards, and extremely appreciative of all the information shared. I was an early Zymatic brewer, and went for the Z2 upgrade before Pico went under. Maintenance practices seem to be about the same, however the Z series does have easier access to the hardware for glycol top ups, etc. And while most of the parts appear to be off the shelf, I had a recent thermal fuse failure for which I have not been able to source a supply. Hoping the brain trust can assist.

This thermal fuse is screwed to the back of the boiler in a Z system, and sits in between the relay and the heater element. I'm sure I can find a suitable 121c 250v contact fuse for another application, but this is the first time I have been unable to easily locate this exact part. Any ideas?

Appreciate the help, as I'm down one Z and drinking my way through my home brew backlog! Thanks!
View attachment 839769

Not the right form factor
https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Baile-RY121-10A-250V-Thermal-Fuses_1600165549053.html
Close
https://kb-3d.com/store/heated-bed-...c-trip-temperature-ceramic-1634486072757.html
Now, what does the back of that item look like? Can you pull it and see if the internal fuse can be replaced?

 

[MInkermental]

Thanks Mike. The existing thermal fuse is definitely encased in ceramic. There is no way I can pull it out of the casing. The back is the same as the front, only blank. I saw the 125c and also thought it would be close enough to work. Everything else is just the thermal fuse on a bare wire, which is not as easy to mount to the boiler. Thanks for the response and the suggestions! Your knowledge and experience with these machines is fantastic!

 

[Mike Howard]

As a reminder to everyone.

Always pay really close attention to the sound your Zymatic makes when first turned on. This will be the first indication that you might be low on glycol. It should not sound like the pump is cavitating at all and it should not surge.

 

[aviation6614]

Anyone interested in a used Zymatic? all the fixings in Massachusetts? I just don't have the time to hack it and join in the fun with everyone on here.

Do you still have if so how much

 

[Zachary Macmillen]

@Mike Howard
Thanks, I skipped replacing the duck valve and just get a little dripage when I pull the step filter out. Besides that no more pump issues.
How the issue I am getting is the step arm bubbling back up. I took a look at your tear down and will do that. Should the silicone seals on the stepper arm both be inserted down the tube? Very pic I see has one above it, not sure what that is doing, and one inserted down. I assume these should both be well lubed up with haynes?
thanks for your help

 

[Mike Howard]

@Zachary Macmillen both of the silicone sleeves should be coated in Haynes Lube and inserted into the tube. The reason they creep up is that the sleeves are not properly lubed, or have dried out and need maintenance. This should be a periodic maintenance check and the reason I no longer screw my lid down.

 

[Zachary Macmillen]

Thanks, I lubed them and pushed them further down, so far no bubbles tonight.

 

[mrjirey]

Just in case anyone is looking for a fullPicoBrew Zymatic and PicoBrewPi setup. I Just listed mine there

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/threads/picobrew-zymatic-with-picobrewpi-500.732893/

 

[Zachary Macmillen]

So one pump finally died(working at about 50% speed) so I replaced them both with the slightly faster pumps.
While doing some cleaning as I had it apart, the wire to the heating element broke. I replaced it, but the system seemed to have some electrical issues. I ended up removing the old wire and replacing with new wire. Now I have it all together again and it starts to brew fine. After about 40 mins it move the arm back to the starting position and then the power goes off. Any suggestions? Prior to trying to brew I ran a full cleaning run and it finished without issue.

 

[Mike Howard]

So one pump finally died(working at about 50% speed) so I replaced them both with the slightly faster pumps.
While doing some cleaning as I had it apart, the wire to the heating element broke. I replaced it, but the system seemed to have some electrical issues. I ended up removing the old wire and replacing with new wire. Now I have it all together again and it starts to brew fine. After about 40 mins it move the arm back to the starting position and then the power goes off. Any suggestions? Prior to trying to brew I ran a full cleaning run and it finished without issue.

The whole machine loses power? What does it take to get power to come back on? There are several safety features on the system to prevent overtemp and catastrophic heating element conditions. Could be one of those, but I'm thinking the power supply if the unit just cuts off. That could be due to a short in the element. I've replaced that and you might also since the wire broke free. See that post here.

 

[Zachary Macmillen]

The whole machine loses power? What does it take to get power to come back on? There are several safety features on the system to prevent overtemp and catastrophic heating element conditions. Could be one of those, but I'm thinking the power supply if the unit just cuts off. That could be due to a short in the element. I've replaced that and you might also since the wire broke free. See that post here.

To get it restarted I just turn the power switch off and then back on. When it shuts down it turns the pumps off, moves the arm back into starting position and then shuts down including the lights on the board. I have the top and back off trying to figure out what is happening.
I'll take a look at replacing the heating element, or I may think of throwing the towel in and moving on. It was great when it worked.

 

[Mike Howard]

That sounds like the board is detecting an unsafe condition. Enter Test Mode and check that your heating sensors are all working correctly. See this post here and this post here. You can check the pumps as well top make sure they are not drawing too much current. When you switched out your pumps, which ones did you use?

 

[Zachary Macmillen]

That sounds like the board is detecting an unsafe condition. Enter Test Mode and check that your heating sensors are all working correctly. See this post here and this post here. You can check the pumps as well top make sure they are not drawing too much current. When you switched out your pumps, which ones did you use?

sorry
Just got back from a conference and then the lights went out in seattle. I went with the SEAFLO 12V DC 1.1GPM pumps, which should draw a bit more. I will try and trouble shoot the heat sensors this weekend.
Thanks for the help.

 

[NadoHawk]

I recently pulled my Zymatic out of storage and noticed it was leaking an orange fluid. Does anyone know what the issue is that caused this to occur?

 

[Mike Howard]

I recently pulled my Zymatic out of storage and noticed it was leaking an orange fluid. Does anyone know what the issue is that caused this to occur?

Sounds like a glycol leak, however I've never seen orange. I would tear it down and do a full maintenance on it since its been sitting. I'm sure it needs the stepper arm lubed, a glycol flush and fill and possibly new hoses not to mention a thorough deep clean and overnight soak.

 

[stonebrewer]

@Mike Howard - Any way I can get a copy of the glycol procedure? I PM'd you my email address...

 

[Mike Howard]

@Mike Howard - Any way I can get a copy of the glycol procedure? I PM'd you my email address...

Sent it this morning

 

[Zachary Macmillen]

Update!
I checked the sensors as Mike suggested, they all seem fine.
I decided to pull the new pumps, and reinstall the old pumps(one of which is failing). After reinstalling the old pumps, I ran a full clean cycle which finished without problem. I then ran a bull brew session, which completed and now I have the first batch of beer in 6 months. I am guessing the new pumps are drawing to much power, but not enough to blow a fuse. I may try and just replace the drain pump with one of the newer pumps, or ask around and see if anyone has one. I know a few people grabbed pumps when Pico brew had their going out of business sale in 2020.
Thanks all, especially Mike Howard!

 

[stonebrewer]

I am going to add glycol as soon as my order arrives from Amazon. I was thinking, at least for now, to skip the reservoir and just have a silicone tube as long as I can get away with sticking up inside the upper part of the Z, installing a clamp and a stopper. Is there any downside to this approach? Guessing I need a barbed tee for this and I have tons of silicone tubing and clamps. Do I leave any airspace at the top of the glycol or should I fill it to the stopper? Anyone have a link to the proper tee? Might have one in my brewing supply pile, but just in case doesn't hurt to have a backup plan.

 

[stonebrewer]

Order just arrived, food grade poly glycol. Anyone have answers for above? If not, away I go!! Cheers all!!

 

[Mike Howard]

Placing a tee prior to the glycol pump and running tubing up the side of the Zymatic is a fine approach for helping trap air. I wouldn't fill it more than half full and check it often. Might need to relieve pressure once in a while so that air gets trapped up there a little better. It's not the best solution, but until we figure out what is, that should help.

I doubt that solution will trap a lot of air while the machine is running, but once its shut off the air should try to find the highest point. A slightly better approach would be to run the tubing in a bit of an arc up the side of the machine and place the tee at the top of that arc, so more air gets trapped. If the tee is below the rest of the loop, I don't know that it serves a great purpose.

I've had mixed reviews on the reservoir. It seems to help push out the need to burp the system often, but does not eliminate it. And frankly, that may be what is needed in the long run. A way to run the system cold and allow the air to accumulate in an upper area so it can then be burped and then sealed off again, making this a periodic maintenance item.