Picobrew Z

[beui]

Do the Z series use glycol?

I don't know. I'm trying to figure out what causes error 6 when I use cold water

 

[Mike Howard]

Might try searching this thread, others have had similar issues:

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/threads/picobrew-z.645332/post-9002570
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/threads/picobrew-z.645332/post-8915350

 

[Don Burcham]

I don't know. I'm trying to figure out what causes error 6 when I use cold water

You have air in the lines. You don't need glycol if your machine is inside. They went with glycol because the water froze in shipping to cold climate locations. There is a reservoir on the right side near the front, top hose goes to the back with a check valve connection. Bottom hose goes to small pump then heater. Pull the clip on the check valve to take apart. Use a syringe and fill with water. Push the water in hard. Water and air will come out, so be prepared. You need to push in water a bunch of times to get all the air out. There will be air in everything so it takes more than three pushes. I have two Z's and have filled both with water and I am going on two years with no problems. Both machines are inside. (Now I will have problems!)

 

[beui]

Might try searching this thread, others have had similar issues:

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/threads/picobrew-z.645332/post-9002570
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/threads/picobrew-z.645332/post-8915350

Thanks!

 

[beui]

You have air in the lines. You don't need glycol if your machine is inside. They went with glycol because the water froze in shipping to cold climate locations. There is a reservoir on the right side near the front, top hose goes to the back with a check valve connection. Bottom hose goes to small pump then heater. Pull the clip on the check valve to take apart. Use a syringe and fill with water. Push the water in hard. Water and air will come out, so be prepared. You need to push in water a bunch of times to get all the air out. There will be air in everything so it takes more than three pushes. I have two Z's and have filled both with water and I am going on two years with no problems. Both machines are inside. (Now I will have problems!)

Thanks!

Just to be clear, this is where you are referring? Can I not just use the connector to push it through?

 

[Don Burcham]

Yes That's the spot. You can use it.

 

[beui]

Yes That's the spot. You can use it.

Thanks!

 

[Mutant]

I had tried everything except replacing the sensor. I have found a solution that is working for me to alleviate the 'code 6'. I have installed a 15A dimmer into the circuit. I just throttled back the current going to heat the glycol. I am using these two parts (HT02.19.194.00 & HT05.30.042.00) from partstown.com. I have set the current flow so that the difference between the wort and hex is around 21F. I can refine that difference by just turning the knob. Not a cheap solution at $250 per machine, but I have verified that it works. I don't know if the current reduction will be hard on the glycol heater, or not. I will upload photos as soon as I can.

 

[Mutant]

Photos for 15A dimmer install below. The one other thing that everyone should do is run the PicoBrew 'New Clean Beta v6' recipe multiple times. I guarantee that that recipe will cover your screen with "coffee grinds" from the wort that has accumulated in the machine's "veins/heart".

 

[Mutant]

My son just found that the same 15A dimmer is available for $80 at: https://www.newark.com/united-automation/qvr-tb-rfi/power-regulator/dp/34M8185
Here is a photo of the "coffee grounds" after my third run of the 'New Clean Beta v6' recipe. I will likely continue running more of these cleaning cycles.

 

[Mike Howard]

My guess is that the system could you a Zymatic style "overnight soak". I do this about every 5th brew and it works realy well. But I also use PBW in my clean cycle which, when done properly, is the best method. not sure how the Z would hold up to that, but an overnight soak would help.

 

[Mutant]

Just opened up the second Z machine to find it has a different layout and parts. The knob will be on the opposite side compared to the 1st install.

 

[A.Homebrewer]

I lost my Z and a bunch of repair parts in a fire two years ago. Since then I have been using an Anvil,10.5 which is OK but miss the automation of the mindless portion of brewing. Has anything else come onto the market to replace the Z?

 

[hopsnmalt]

They sell an adapter to use PicoFerm on corney kegs.
Link:
https://www.picobrew.com/store/products/Product.cshtml?id=865
Be sure to replace the fast standard pressure relief in lid of corney keg with the red fast fermentation adapter or PicoFerm will pop out or leak.
Link to fast fermentation adapter:
https://www.picobrew.com/store/products/Product.cshtml?id=275

Can you tell me the psi rating for the various Cornelius keg PicoBrew branded pressure relief valves ? Do you know where I can find this information?

Cheers
Bob

 

[Trevor Mack]

Can you tell me the psi rating for the various Cornelius keg PicoBrew branded pressure relief valves ? Do you know where I can find this information?

Cheers
Bob

6-10psi for the Picobrew "fast fermentation" red release valves and believe they had the spring designed to be ~7psi. There are other red release valves in the market the red is just a signal that they aren't rated to 120psi like the grey standard ones.

 

[Munchman]

I discovered that I need a specific part but don't know how to find out a source for it. This is the plastic part in the Z that connects to the pickup tube. There is some sensor inside this part. Photo attached. Any help would be appreciated.

Did you ever find this part? My Z isn’t draining and this is the last part that could be the issue. I’ve replaced the multivalve and the drain pump…. I’m about to scrap it

 

[Don Burcham]

Did you ever find this part? My Z isn’t draining and this is the last part that could be the issue. I’ve replaced the multivalve and the drain pump…. I’m about to scrap it

I have the same problem. Not sure if Kevin (beholder) on ebay has some I need to check also.

 

[Mutant]

6-10psi for the Picobrew "fast fermentation" red release valves and believe they had the spring designed to be ~7psi. There are other red release valves in the market the red is just a signal that they aren't rated to 120psi like the grey standard ones.

I purchased a dozen red-valves plus a long length of light spring. Then, I had my son experiment by cutting the spring to get the psi set at about ~13 psi.

 

[Jim Chester]

Thanks!

Just to be clear, this is where you are referring? Can I not just use the connector to push it through?

Is one direction in the break easier or harder to push water? I have three of these failing the same way.

 

[Wesley Dog]

Can anyone help with rupture in the multifunction controller that has 7 clear lines?
Twice now it has ruptrued the same line.