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Cranny04

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Hey all, I'm planning on brewing a Russian Imperial stout this weekend..

I'm thinking about trying to partygyle this batch.

I've never done this before. Is there anything more to it than collecting another batch's worth or wort?

Thanks

Cranny
 
Depending on what you want your small beer to look/taste like you can do all sorts of stuff to change it. People "cap" the mash with extra grains and give it a short conversion for bumped gravity, or add different specialty grains. If you don't want your small beer to come out too thin you can add some caramel malt.
 
Depending on what you want your small beer to look/taste like you can do all sorts of stuff to change it. People "cap" the mash with extra grains and give it a short conversion for bumped gravity, or add different specialty grains. If you don't want your small beer to come out too thin you can add some caramel malt.


I'm planning to mash at 154.. will the body still be an issue?

Also I have some DME to add if the gravity is too low.
 
If your going to mashout I'd doubt that body would be an issue, but my preference with smaller beers is to have a higher FG or more caramel malt to keep it from being too thin. I'm hoping someone with more expertise than me will chime in, I am not the most experienced with partigyle.
 
I seriously just did a partigyle yesterday, for the first time ever.

First off, i suggest checking out this:
http://brewingtechniques.com/library/backissues/issue2.2/mosher.html
That will tell you more about what to expect, gravity-wise.

Second, don't mash out or sparge the first runnings.

Third, make sure you have enough volume. I didnt, and had to improvise.

Otherwise, its pretty simple:

Use enough grains to hit an OG appx 1/2 way between what you want the big beer to be, but for a 10 gallon batch. IE, i wanted to hit 1.080 and 1.040, so i used enough grains to hit 1.060 for a 10 gallon batch.

Then, mash in to hit your desired temp, using enough water to, after dead space and grain absorption, have enough first runnings to hit your boil volume.

After draining the first wort, cap the mash with fresh grains as desired, and add more mash water, so that you hit your second mash temp, and would get enough second runnings to hit your boil volume. I had trouble with the mash temp on mine, and now figure that its still solid advice to aim about 7-10 degrees higher than your intended mash temp.

One thing to keep in mind that i forgot was that when you drain your first runnings into the boil kettle, you still need a way to heat up the secondary mash water. I ended up with a handful of pots on my kitchen stove, which was less than ideal.

Anyways, good luck to you!
 
There's the experienced poster I was looking for! Good points!
 
Definately check the preboil gravity for the first beer. I usually get a higher gravity than I normally would with the first runnings.

For instance, I usually collect 7.5 gal for a 5.25gal batch. I have found that I only need 6 gal for the first beer in a partigyle. Obviously this is system/process dependent so check your preboil gravity.

Plan on a long brewday and drink accordingly;)
 
Update on my Partigyle brew day...

First Batch: RIS 1.080 pre boil gravity. 1.102 post boil. 1.5 oz magnum @60, 2oz EKG @ 10, 2oz EKG @ 1....

Second Batch: 1.020 pre boil. 1.042 post boil (w/ 1 lb DME added). I just poured the second batch onto the previous batches hops..

Pitched WLP001 yeast cake from a SN Tumbler Clone two weeks ago.

I'm not sure how the spent hops will work in the small beer.... Will update in a few weeks when It is kegged and carbonated...

Overall I only added about two hours to my brew day..
 
I did similar thing when brewing belgian double and have t say my small beer was sooooooo bitter that it was hard to drink, i still have few bottles left and after 6+ months its well bloody bitter

Update on my Partigyle brew day...

First Batch: RIS 1.080 pre boil gravity. 1.102 post boil. 1.5 oz magnum @60, 2oz EKG @ 10, 2oz EKG @ 1....

Second Batch: 1.020 pre boil. 1.042 post boil (w/ 1 lb DME added). I just poured the second batch onto the previous batches hops..

Pitched WLP001 yeast cake from a SN Tumbler Clone two weeks ago.

I'm not sure how the spent hops will work in the small beer.... Will update in a few weeks when It is kegged and carbonated...

Overall I only added about two hours to my brew day..
 
Polboy said:
I did similar thing when brewing belgian double and have t say my small beer was sooooooo bitter that it was hard to drink, i still have few bottles left and after 6+ months its well bloody bitter

Yeah, I figure if it sucks I just have a big starter of 001 that I can use...
 
For your future planning, at least on my system, I average about 75% overall eff for partigyle batches. I plan my first running at about 50% and my second running at about 25%. When I split the wort 50/50 between the batches. Its good to toss in more roasted or caramalts for the second beer, if you don't it can turn out a little flat. Planning out two different recipes helps me keep my hop additions where I want them. As an example the last partigyle I did was an RIS and an Oatmeal Stout. The RIS came out great and for the small beer I added about 2-3 lbs of chocolate and roasted malts and 4-6 lbs of oats, the exact figures escape me right now. Once I added the grains I let it sit for another 30 or so min before the second runnings.
 

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