Parti-Gyle and No Boil SMaSH

[Stretch1991]

So I want to experiment with two styles of brewing I've never tried before. It won't be traditional by any means but it's still an interesting concept I want to fool with. The thought is for a smash style ale, the first beer I want to be a higher gravity but maybe not quite a double IPA but for the second I want to do a no boil beer

I havnt finalized a recipe for a grain build (I would appreciate help!) but I know I want to use Vienna but possibly marris otter.

The goal is the get a decent amount of wort for the primary beer (maybe 6 gallons and let it boil down to 5 due to my pot being a 7.5 gallon) but do an additional 5 gallon with remaining wort. My thoughts are to bring 7 gallons of water to mash temp and mash with the appropriate amount of water, then do the math from there on how much sparge water I'm going to need to get another 3-5 gallons of a second beer.

Since the second beer is no boil I want to hop the sparge water but instead of it being a traditional sparge I was thinking more of a mash out. So it allows me to get a little more bitter from the hops (still only aiming for a 20-30 ibu max beer) with the higher temp. Hold it for a currently undetermined amount of time. Then pull that wort and hop it while it cools down to yeast pitch temps

I'm doing a citra Vienna SMaSH tomorrow, I'm thinking the primary beer can be a cascade smash but for this second beer and the overall amount of suggested grains I am all ears!

 

[bradleypariah]

I don't have much input, except for the fact that the Brulosophy dudes were guests on the Basic Brewing Radio podcast a while back, and the no-boil beer was a disaster, and the only advice after the discussion was something to the effect of, "You should definitely boil your wort," which they said while laughing.

Completely anecdotal, I know. What got you interested in trying this technique?

 

[hottpeper13]

I can help with the partigyle but your on your own with the no boil. First the grain absorbtion is only calculated for the first runnings,any water added to the tun after the first runnings will come out. I calculate my first beer as no sparge , sometimes I cap the grains with a flaked grain(rye is nice) but mostly I take what I get for SG which is around 1.040.

 

[Stretch1991]

Is the boiling just for hop utilization though? Couldn't you in theory boil your sparge water for the hour your grains are steeping (with hops) then lower the temps for sparging but then not boil the second runnings?

It's more for the sake of curiosity, I would never buy and waste new grains on A no boil idea but I wouldn't be opposed to getting a couple extra pounds of grains if I could split it between a batch I'm confident will be good and some crazy idea

My biggest questions is how much extra grain would really be needed? Lets keep it simple and just use a single malt and a 5 gallon batch. Would I use more water than usual for the mash as well?

 

[bradleypariah]

You should base your grain weight on your desired ABV.
Do you use a tool like this one? https://www.brewersfriend.com/homebrew/recipe/calculator/

 

[Stretch1991]

So more or less, focus on the first beers gravity?

 

[bradleypariah]

That's what I would guess. Keeping in mind, the higher the gravity of the first runnings, the bigger the small beer could theoretically be. If you're sparging more grains, my initial assumption would be that there'd be more sugar.

I'm totally speculating. Sorry. I have very little knowledge to offer about this.

 

[Grod1]

i brew a partigyle beer almost every single time i brew. But what i do is just add wheat dme to get what ever gravity i want.
if your set on this no boil beer why not do a one gallon test batch first.