I am planning on making dogfish head 60 minute IPA. The recipe I'm using calls for pale liquid extract. I am not sure which extract I should go with. Thoughts? Recipe is below
Extract recipe:
DFH clone
Batch Size: 5.00 gal
Boil Size: 2.5 gal
Estimated OG: 1.072 SG
Estimated Color: 13.1 SRM
Estimated IBU: 49.8 IBU
Boil Time: 60 Minutes
Ingredients:
Amount Item Type % or IBU
9.5 lbs Pale Liquid Extract (8.0 SRM) Extract 90.83 %
1 lbs Caramel/Crystal Malt 40L (40.0 SRM) Grain 9.17 %
1.25 oz Warrior [15.00 %] (60 min) Hops 26.7 IBU
(Read notes!)
1.00 oz Amarillo Gold [8.50 %] (35 min) Hops 10.0 IBU
1.00 oz Simcoe [12.00 %] (30 min) Hops 13.1 IBU
(Read notes!
1.00 oz Amarillo Gold [8.50 %] (Dry Hop 7 days) Hops
0.50 oz Simcoe [12.00 %] (Dry Hop 7 days) Hops
Notes:
Pacman yeast used, but any clean well attenuating yeast can be used. Try WLP001, Nottingham, or 1056 if pacman is not available.
Hops were added as continuous first warrior for the first 25 minutes ( approximately half at 60 minutes, then a little bit at a time until 35 minutes was left in the boil). Then the rest of the hops were mixed together, and added continuously at 35 minutes.
You can use dry malt extract instead of the liquid if you=d like- use 8 pounds of DME instead.
Directions:
Steep the crystal in a grain bag in 2.5 gallons of water at 150-155 degrees for 20 minutes. Remove the grains, and discard them. Bring that Atea@ to a boil. When it is boiling, remove it from the heat (take it OFF the burner!) And stir in the LME. Put it back on the burner, and bring it to a boil. When it is boiling, add approximately half of the warrior hops you have. Set the timer for 60 minutes. After that, continue adding a pellet or two or five, every minute or so, until there is 35 minutes left on your timer. Try to time it so you are out of warrior pellets at 35 minutes left. Mix the rest of the hops together in a bowl. When you have 35 minutes left, start adding those hops just a few at a time, trying to end with the last of them when your timer hits 0 and you turn the flame off. Chill the wort rapidly, add to your fermenter, and top up to 5 gallons with cool water. Check the temperature to ensure it is around 70 degrees, and pitch a neutral yeast like American ale yeast (1056), or dry yeast like nottingham or safale s05. Ferment until completely done, and then allow to rest. Two weeks is pretty good. Then, rack to a clean 5 gallon carboy and dry hop with the dryhopping hops. You can either just put them into the fermenter and rack onto them, or use a hops bag if you=d like. Just don=t pack them tightly, you want the beer to be in contact with the hops. Use two or three bags if you need them. After about a week, you can rack to a bottling bucket avoiding the hops chunks, and bottle. Prime as usual, with approx. 3.5- 4 ounces priming sugar for 5 gallons of beer. You may have less than 5 gallons, due to the hops sucking up some of the beer, that=s why 3.5-4 ounces is a good bet.[/QUOTE]
Extract recipe:
DFH clone
Batch Size: 5.00 gal
Boil Size: 2.5 gal
Estimated OG: 1.072 SG
Estimated Color: 13.1 SRM
Estimated IBU: 49.8 IBU
Boil Time: 60 Minutes
Ingredients:
Amount Item Type % or IBU
9.5 lbs Pale Liquid Extract (8.0 SRM) Extract 90.83 %
1 lbs Caramel/Crystal Malt 40L (40.0 SRM) Grain 9.17 %
1.25 oz Warrior [15.00 %] (60 min) Hops 26.7 IBU
(Read notes!)
1.00 oz Amarillo Gold [8.50 %] (35 min) Hops 10.0 IBU
1.00 oz Simcoe [12.00 %] (30 min) Hops 13.1 IBU
(Read notes!
1.00 oz Amarillo Gold [8.50 %] (Dry Hop 7 days) Hops
0.50 oz Simcoe [12.00 %] (Dry Hop 7 days) Hops
Notes:
Pacman yeast used, but any clean well attenuating yeast can be used. Try WLP001, Nottingham, or 1056 if pacman is not available.
Hops were added as continuous first warrior for the first 25 minutes ( approximately half at 60 minutes, then a little bit at a time until 35 minutes was left in the boil). Then the rest of the hops were mixed together, and added continuously at 35 minutes.
You can use dry malt extract instead of the liquid if you=d like- use 8 pounds of DME instead.
Directions:
Steep the crystal in a grain bag in 2.5 gallons of water at 150-155 degrees for 20 minutes. Remove the grains, and discard them. Bring that Atea@ to a boil. When it is boiling, remove it from the heat (take it OFF the burner!) And stir in the LME. Put it back on the burner, and bring it to a boil. When it is boiling, add approximately half of the warrior hops you have. Set the timer for 60 minutes. After that, continue adding a pellet or two or five, every minute or so, until there is 35 minutes left on your timer. Try to time it so you are out of warrior pellets at 35 minutes left. Mix the rest of the hops together in a bowl. When you have 35 minutes left, start adding those hops just a few at a time, trying to end with the last of them when your timer hits 0 and you turn the flame off. Chill the wort rapidly, add to your fermenter, and top up to 5 gallons with cool water. Check the temperature to ensure it is around 70 degrees, and pitch a neutral yeast like American ale yeast (1056), or dry yeast like nottingham or safale s05. Ferment until completely done, and then allow to rest. Two weeks is pretty good. Then, rack to a clean 5 gallon carboy and dry hop with the dryhopping hops. You can either just put them into the fermenter and rack onto them, or use a hops bag if you=d like. Just don=t pack them tightly, you want the beer to be in contact with the hops. Use two or three bags if you need them. After about a week, you can rack to a bottling bucket avoiding the hops chunks, and bottle. Prime as usual, with approx. 3.5- 4 ounces priming sugar for 5 gallons of beer. You may have less than 5 gallons, due to the hops sucking up some of the beer, that=s why 3.5-4 ounces is a good bet.[/QUOTE]
