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That is what I did a month ago. While not my best beer it turned out okay.
Did to my current living arrangement that is going to be how I brew for a while.
It was one extract, and a small amount of hops. I did a second batch with three different extracts and way more hops (6 different varieties) and it was way better. I now have a stout in the fermenter that used three extracts and one hop with some specialty grains; the hydrometer sample tasted pretty good.
 
I get your point here but wanted to clarify the word “kit”. Most all grain recipe kits are only a few dollars less than their extract counterparts..at least from Midwest and NB.

Few examples:
Karma Citra IPA Extract: $37.99
Karma Citra IPA All grain: $33.99

Dragons Silk imperial Stout Extract: $67.99
Dragons Silk imperial Stout all grain: $59.99

Most recipe kits are under a $10 difference, many only being $3-4. When you buy ingredients in bulk then the saving will become much more significant.

Fair. But I haven't done a kit, extract, partial mash or all grain for almost 7 years. The bigger savings are by buying grain in larger, discounted quantities. Then add buying 4 ounce or 1 pound packages of hops, reusing yeast, and you can see a big savings.
 
You are not always sure what goes into making the extract.

While one may not always be absolutely certain about the base malts used for specific types of extract (for example Amber DME), a lot of good information has shown up at manufacturer web sites. With this current information, I'm able to brew an enjoyable amber ale with ... wait for it ... Amber DME.

But I haven't done a kit, extract, partial mash or all grain for almost 7 years.

It would appear that there have been some meaningful changes in information about DME and quality of DME since 2015.

That being said, please continue promote the positive aspects of "all grain" brewing. I BIAB when I need a specific wort composition that I can't get from DME. I also know that I can brew many enjoyable beers with DME.

And, with small batches (2.5 gal or less), it doesn't have to be either "extract" or "all grain", it can be both.
 
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It was one extract, and a small amount of hops. I did a second batch with three different extracts and way more hops (6 different varieties) and it was way better. I now have a stout in the fermenter that used three extracts and one hop with some specialty grains; the hydrometer sample tasted pretty good.

Three extracts!?! Which ones?

I have a recipe (that I will brew again) that was 50% Munich DME and 50% Vienna DME. It's a fun beer - doesn't really fit any specific style - so I won't say much more about it at this time.
 
My last couple replies were about how you can save with all grain as opposed to extract. Especially if you talk extract kits to bulk bought all grain.

I occasionally brew with extract. I usually use Briess golden light DME and steep specialty grains for color and flavor. I have a hard time distinguishing any difference between my extract and all grain beers.

The way I use extract, it really just replaces the base malt for all grain. And steeping instead of mashing.
 
You can save a lot by foregoing kits and buying bulk, regardless of whether you use extract or grain.

Issue with bulk though is conservation of ingredients, unless you drink a lot.
 
I am excited to say I just bought a larger (15 Gallon) kettle and an immersion chiller. I am goin BIAG all-grain. By this time next week I will have brewed my first batch.
My biggest concern was chilling. with extract, I always did a partial boil then poured over ice in the fermenter to quickly chill and add fill water at the same time. it actually worked really well. the problem is with LME the colors are always so dark. I made a Kolsch that tasted pretty good, but looked closer to a brown ale than a pilsner/lager. even my creme ales and blondes are on the darker side. I have a Hefe in the fermenter and in steeping the specialty grains I was optimistic that this would be the lightest beer to date, (since 2010), but once the extract was added to the boil, my hopes were dashed.

So, in order to have more control over ll aspects of my brewing, I am steppin it up a notch.

just remember, fun is the best thing to have
 
My first all grain pale ale was significantly lighter than its extract counterparts. Recently made the switch to stovetop biab from extract as well. I don’t see myself ever completely switching though. The shorter, simpler brew day is too convenient sometimes. And I’ve had great experiences with the results.

Agree that the darker colors are a bit of a disappointment. I primarily used DME but still frowned a bit at the color. I’ve generally been very pleased with taste, but it turns off a lot of my friends as they’re concerned it’s a ‘darker beer’. Usually change their minds once they take a swig though.
 
I am excited to say I just bought a larger (15 Gallon) kettle and an immersion chiller. I am goin BIAG all-grain. By this time next week I will have brewed my first batch.
My biggest concern was chilling. with extract, I always did a partial boil then poured over ice in the fermenter to quickly chill and add fill water at the same time. it actually worked really well. the problem is with LME the colors are always so dark. I made a Kolsch that tasted pretty good, but looked closer to a brown ale than a pilsner/lager. even my creme ales and blondes are on the darker side. I have a Hefe in the fermenter and in steeping the specialty grains I was optimistic that this would be the lightest beer to date, (since 2010), but once the extract was added to the boil, my hopes were dashed.

So, in order to have more control over ll aspects of my brewing, I am steppin it up a notch.

just remember, fun is the best thing to have

Dude, congrats the the new equipment. Curious as to what immersion cooler you ended up with.

Sure you’ve probably done this already, but if you decide to try extract again I’d go with the short boil method. The max boil time I do now is 30 min. It not only shortened my brew day but made my brews notably lighter. My house beer is a Belgian blonde and it lightened up nicely. I plan on trying a small batch BIAB to compare the color against in a few months. Hope to report back the difference

Congrats again. Look forward to seeing the results of switching to BIAB.
 
Another +1 for shorter boil times with extract.

Is anyone brewing with 15 minute boils (15-Minute Pale Ale, one-hour extract brew)? I tried it once, was happy with the results, but got "distracted" by BBR's "Hop Sampler" approach (basically a "1 minute boil" and a ambient temperature cool down) and by "No-Boil Recipes! New for 2019!" and similar "hop steep" approaches.
 
I never tried a short boil but I use only light DME for extract, 1/2 at 60 minutes and 1/2 at flameout. I use steeping grains in a way that is a little lighter than would be normal. My extracts are darker than a similar all grain, but only a little.
 
It never occurred to me to go shorter boils but i have tried adding LME late in the boil with not much difference.
As for the chiller. I went pretty big. Because well it’s bigger! Haha
IMG_1333.JPG
 
I get your point here but wanted to clarify the word “kit”. Most all grain recipe kits are only a few dollars less than their extract counterparts..at least from Midwest and NB.

Few examples:
Karma Citra IPA Extract: $37.99
Karma Citra IPA All grain: $33.99

Dragons Silk imperial Stout Extract: $67.99
Dragons Silk imperial Stout all grain: $59.99

Most recipe kits are under a $10 difference, many only being $3-4. When you buy ingredients in bulk then the saving will become much more significant.

This is true for my local store (AHB). I just bought my first all grain kit to brew next week after doing 9 extract. For $4 less it is not worth the whole extra effort but I will see if taste is much better. I’m brewing the same amber I did one month ago which was one of my best. Buying grain in bulk is where the savings are plus flexibility of doing your own I guess.
 
I never tried a short boil but I use only light DME for extract, 1/2 at 60 minutes and 1/2 at flameout. I use steeping grains in a way that is a little lighter than would be normal. My extracts are darker than a similar all grain, but only a little.

I’m sure you’ve seen me say it before on another thread; unless you need 60min to utilize the hops for some reason there is no need for that long of a boil to the best of my knowledge. My understanding is your essentially reconstituting wort to isomerize hop oil at a certain efficiency using extract. You could probably even shorted the brew day even more by buying already isomerized hop oils like this https://www.steamhops.com/
 
Recently, I listened to BeerSmith podcast #189 (Hops and IPAs with Stan Hieronymus). There are some interesting ideas on how boil time can yield different "types" of bitterness.

Thanks for the reference. I’ll check it out
 
Three extracts!?! Which ones?

I have a recipe (that I will brew again) that was 50% Munich DME and 50% Vienna DME. It's a fun beer - doesn't really fit any specific style - so I won't say much more about it at this time.
I used (briess) golden light, pale ale, and munich.
 
Certainly a triangle test can be in error, but to reach statistical significance, it accounts for those who are guessing, that’s why you need to reach 11 out of 20 and not just 7 out of 20. Sure when something is really different the significance is more certain and less likely to be in error, but that’s the point of using widely agreed upon statistical standards. If significance is found, it is reliable that a difference is there even if subtle. I know that Marshall doesn’t feel like there is much meaning in the preference data, because what one person prefers is wildly different than another. From my perspective, it is important. I feel like the preference data is about as close to a good beer yardstick that we can give to a future brewer. What would be interesting is if we could somehow find how each of these flavors could be found to be distasteful in one context and preferred in another, much like a musical composition of notes. In that regard we could presumably achieve a beer opus of sorts.

To take this idea a step further, I propose a true robo-brew, set in a nitrogen purged room, ran by an AI. The AI will be fed a large number of malt types, hops, yeast and water salts and start churning out beers. Anyone that comes to Robo Brewery is given as much free Robo beer as they can drink, three at a time and then surveyed for each flight on difference and preference. The AI will then get the feedback and produce better and better beers. At some point it will find the penultimate beer. Plot twist, it tastes just like Bud Light.
if theres one thing Ive learned so far in my 2 months owning a brewpub is different people all has different taste... Yes of course we have beers that some people find too bitter or too heavy and some find too light... I had a woman order a stout and tell me she didnt care for it because it had a slight roasty flavor yet stouts were her favorite style of beer.(I think she was confused with porters).. 15 minutes later I had a guy tell me that very same beer was the best example he ever had of that beer and he became a regular, drinking it every week... I has concluded that what I read about some people being able to taste and not taste things others can is true. and a beer with less flavor is tolerated by more people hence more successful by a larger pool of people.. and lodo beer just have more of that flavor many want muted.
 
I started homebrewing around ... 1989. Most of us were starting with a "Beer Kit" :1 can of hopped Muntona LME with the dry yeast taped inside the lid :) and 1 kg of cane sugar. Malt extract quality has improved tremendously and once in a while I'm not ashamed to brew a batch using extract. My favourite extract recipe is a belgian dubbel with steeping grains and homemade candi syrup. I prefer fresh LME ( it has more aroma ) . I use DME for yeast starters
 
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