old distiller, new brewer

[wvhillbilly]

Like in the title. I have experience with distilling. So for the most part, I know my way around fermenting and whatnot. There are some differences however, and that's what I'm hear to learn. I for one, love beer, and two, I thought since the steps in brewing are a little more calculated than with something you would distill later, that it will also make my liquor better. I've already got my first brew going, and I am seeing some differences which I'm sort of concerned about. Usually, I can overpitch yeast, and ferment over 80 degrees and finish dry in about 6-7 days on a 14% potential abv. Its an aggressive ferment from start to finish. This brew I have going now started off well, but within 36 hours, it had stopped bubbling and the cap has fallen. Now, I know you all usually ferment much cooler than distillers do, how much would the esters affect it if I warmed it up a little? I've currently got it around 72 degrees. I tried a warm water bath around it earlier, and it perked right IP, but has since fallen off again, so I decided to come ask some experts. Thanks all, I'm glad to be hear.

 

[forstmeister]

Welcome to home brewing, and welcome to the forum.

Since distillation is illegal, discussion of it on the forums is prohibited. You will find a lot of great people and resources on here so jump right in!

 

[wvhillbilly]

For sure, I'm not here to discuss it, just giving you some of my background, I'm not a total newb to the wonderful world of making your own drink.

 

[LovesIPA]

You really want an ale to ferment somewhere between 60 and 65, depending on the strain. Fermentation produces heat, so even if you keep the fermenter in 65 degree area, the temperature of the wort will be as much as 10 degrees higher. The two cheapest and most effective ways to control fermentation temps are a swamp cooler, which is just a big plastic bucket or garbage can with often-changed water bottles, or a chest freezer wired with an aftermarket temp controller. After you get tired of changing out frozen water bottles, you'll be looking for a chest freezer to convert.

Getting a handle on fermentation temps is necessary to avoid producing fusel alcohols and fruity esters that make beer taste bad or undrinkable.

Typically, fermentation lasts 3-5 days. After that, most of the sugar is consumed, the krausen falls, and the yeast begin to go dormant and clean up after themselves. The whole process usually takes about 2-3 weeks.

 

[wvhillbilly]

Thanks for the reply. I know you all usually ferment at lower temps, is it normal for your cap to fall, and there be almost no activity after 36 hours? It perks right back up when I bring the temp up. I'm afraid of it getting too cool, and stalling

 

[forstmeister]

As LovesIPA said, depending on strain you really want to keep the temp in the mid 60's- lower for some and higher for others. Saison yeasts like warmer temps and produce some really nice fruity flavors at that temp. Other yeasts will produce horrible off flavors. If your ability to keep temps below 70 then consider trying to make some Belgian styles or a saison since those yeast strains do well at that temp.

 

[forstmeister]

Oh, and yes, it is totally normal for ACTIVE fermentation to be done after a few days. But there is still work to be done by the yeast...

 

[NTXBrauer]

There are a number of questions to be answered to guide you in the right direction.

Type of beer are you brewing? Yeast strain being used? Batch size? Did you make a yeast starter?

It is possible the yeast is running out of fermentable sugars, so the process is slowing. Warmer temps will stimulate activity, but only to a point.

 

[wvhillbilly]

Its just a simple wheat ale. 1 gallon. I used munsons dry yeast, as it was the only brewers yeast I had. I did not use a starter, as I've never had any problems just pitching. I pitched at 72 degrees, it took off very well, then just kind of fell flat, which I am not used to.

 

[Neopol]

1 gallon, damn its probably done... if I am not mistaken ( i dont use dry yeast) the packet is good for 5 gall on typical 1040 gravity brews.
My starters for 20/30 gallon batches that get stepped that from 2 L to 1 gallon jugs and are floccing in 2-3 days...you might just be in the TG/done stage...take a hydrometer reading.

 

[wvhillbilly]

Thanks neopol, I thought about it, but hated to open it up after that short amount of time.

 

[Neopol]

Don't get me wrong...not done as in ready to crash & drink...that yeast is likely in need of cleaning up some of its byproducts, take a gravity and let it go another week to clean up after itself. You'll know when you taste that sample your gonna pull a gravity reading on...

 

[wvhillbilly]

Yeah, I know that. This process is just a little different than I'm used to, and in a lot smaller batch. I've had ferments finish dry (not including clearing time) in 4 days, but 36 hours just seems too short.

 

[NTXBrauer]

1 gallon, damn its probably done... if I am not mistaken ( i dont use dry yeast) the packet is good for 5 gall on typical 1040 gravity brews.
My starters for 20/30 gallon batches that get stepped that from 2 L to 1 gallon jugs and are floccing in 2-3 days...you might just be in the TG/done stage...take a hydrometer reading.

^^I agree with this. For a 1 gallon batch, you could be close to done. Only a gravity reading will tell.

 

[Neopol]

Gravity and a taste test will tell you a lot...especially knowing your familiarity with a turbo yeast

 

[wvhillbilly]

Excellent, thanks guys. Now its off to reading, a lot, as it seems like I'm starting over.