OK, 5 batches in and questions still..

[Hannable1975]

This weekend I brewed my fourth batch ( AHS Session Blonde) and fifth ( AHS Promo Stormcastle).

Questions of a general nature:

1) For each batch ( except the third where I used a smack pack ) I have had dry yeast. I dunno if it is just being silly, but I boil 2 cups water, add a little extra light DME, and let cool to 90 and "proof" the yeast, similar to baking. I have really good results like this - does anyone else do it, or do folks generally follow the "sprinkle on top of your wort" directions in the instruction kits? ( BTW - I did this this morning with the Stormcastle- finished up around noon - and ALREADY have airlock activity, from Dry Windsor yeast.)

2) I was talking beer to a friend today, and he told me he used to brew. He said his beer improved greatly when he started taking a rubber spatula ( sanitized of course) and "scraping" th kruesen and "junk" off the walls once it slowed and fell, and "gently mixing it back in - sometimes even seeing the ferment pick back up a little - but leaving him with really clear beers. I have not done this yet, and wonder : Good idea, Bad? Why?

3) Whirlfloc - I swear sometimes It seems I get an awesome cold break - I mean I have been able to drop my temps to 70 - 7 FATS - but the "matter" takes longer to settle. A few brews I have filtered with a funnel and screen - and one I forgot and ended up with a lot of trub in my fermenter. I think I read somewhere that this is OK, it will settle out. Comments?

and

4) I'm gonna brew my first "recipe" some time this week. I have fished a few ideas out here, and decided to go with some Crystal 30L, some Pilsen DME, and 2 oz of Saaz - one at 60 mins and one at 10 to go. Looking something light, and low in ABV. I have made ajoke about purposefully making watered down beer - but after the AHS blonde, I think I got a handle on what I want. ( The AHS kit was LME, btw). ANYHOW - If I steep the crystal, and use only 1/3 of the DME at the start - shouldn't I keep the color light? Then adding the rest with the other hops with 10 to go, to add body, right?

 

[HalfPint]

1) It can actually be bad to proof your yeast in that manner--dry yeast should be either proofed in water, or sprinkled right on top of the cooled wort (what I always do).

2) Why introduce more factors into the process that could cause infection. Yeast has been doing what they do for...well, a long time...and if you use the appropriate amount of yeast in the right environment, they do a very good job.

3) Trub in the fermenter has actually been shown to be beneficial to yeast health, and unless it's so much that it becomes a volume issue in your fermenter, don't worry about it.

4) That recipe sounds fine, and when you add the DME is up to you. I personally would add all of it at 60 minutes.

 

[eager_brewer]

I have never used dry yeast before. I only use Wyeast or White Labs. I had a fried that used dry yeast but after a while all of his beer tasted the same. But he always just added the yeast to warm tap water.

EB

 

[BigB]

1. Waste of time and money. Just sprinkle on top.
2. Silly, just risks infection. The minute amount of viable yeast in the crap stuck to the walls is not going to do anything for you. The gentle stirring probably just roused yeast that fell out of suspension early. Gently swirling is a common tactic for a stuck fermentation, but to stir in the gunk on the side is just plain silly. Just gently swirly the fermenter if you need to.
3. Trub in the fermenter is no big deal. If you are worried about it, just use a reusable nylon bag as a filter. Available for like 5 bucks at your LHBS. Even has elastic to hold it in place.
4. I'm not into light beers so I can't help you here.

 

[Hannable1975]

Cool - thanks for the words of wisdom guys!

And BigB - I love the quote in the sig - that's pretty funny...

 

[Bob]

1) For each batch ( except the third where I used a smack pack ) I have had dry yeast. I dunno if it is just being silly, but I boil 2 cups water, add a little extra light DME, and let cool to 90 and "proof" the yeast, similar to baking. I have really good results like this - does anyone else do it, or do folks generally follow the "sprinkle on top of your wort" directions in the instruction kits?

Both Fermentis (Safale/Saflager brands) and Danstar/Lallemand recommend rehydration of their yeasts before inoculation. This does not involve adding malt (well, mostly; Danstar advises attemperating the pitch with chilled before inoculation, but I suspect you're not at that point yet ).

2) I was talking beer to a friend today, and he told me he used to brew. He said his beer improved greatly when he started taking a rubber spatula ( sanitized of course) and "scraping" th kruesen and "junk" off the walls once it slowed and fell, and "gently mixing it back in - sometimes even seeing the ferment pick back up a little - but leaving him with really clear beers. I have not done this yet, and wonder : Good idea, Bad? Why?

Bad. Once you pitch, the wise brewer will not mess about in his fermenter. He did not observe the ferment restarting; he observed the beer off-gassing - fermented wort contains an amount of carbon dioxide gas, and agitating the beer will release it.

It is better to clarify with patience, though some sort of fining is often used. Search HBT for threads on fining and clarification.

3) Whirlfloc - I swear sometimes It seems I get an awesome cold break - I mean I have been able to drop my temps to 70 - 7 FATS - but the "matter" takes longer to settle. A few brews I have filtered with a funnel and screen - and one I forgot and ended up with a lot of trub in my fermenter. I think I read somewhere that this is OK, it will settle out. Comments?

The rate at which the break settles is dependent on a number of factors, primarily the density of the break. Whirlfloc and other kettle coagulants promote rapid break formation - and corresponding rapid break settling - through larger break clumps.

For best results, use a spigot valve installed on your kettle or siphon the cooled wort into the fermenter. My kettle has a screen on the interior of the valve, and I generally use whole hops. While I suffer from increased bitter wort loss due to the whole hops retaining a lot of wort, I get star-bright bitter wort in the fermenter.

That said, don't freak over break and trub getting into the fermenter. It's not a big deal in the grand scheme of things.

4) I'm gonna brew my first "recipe" some time this week. I have fished a few ideas out here, and decided to go with some Crystal 30L, some Pilsen DME, and 2 oz of Saaz - one at 60 mins and one at 10 to go. Looking something light, and low in ABV. I have made ajoke about purposefully making watered down beer - but after the AHS blonde, I think I got a handle on what I want. ( The AHS kit was LME, btw). ANYHOW - If I steep the crystal, and use only 1/3 of the DME at the start - shouldn't I keep the color light? Then adding the rest with the other hops with 10 to go, to add body, right?

You've got it. It's a very common technique.

Good luck!

Bob

 

[Legin]

4. Just interested in what type of yeast are you using? I made a Saison all-grain with Belgian Pils and Saaz that was phenomenal. Really the only difference between this brew and yours will be the yeast used, which makes a huge difference in the final product. Interested in hearing how it turns out.

 

[Hannable1975]

4. Just interested in what type of yeast are you using? I made a Saison all-grain with Belgian Pils and Saaz that was phenomenal. Really the only difference between this brew and yours will be the yeast used, which makes a huge difference in the final product. Interested in hearing how it turns out.

Planning to use US-05. From what I have read here it works pretty clean. Comments / suggestions?

 

[Legin]

It's very clean. Good choice.

 

[BigB]

It's very clean. Good choice.

+1. It's a great yeast. I believe that 1056 is just the liquid version of US-05.

 

[Hannable1975]

Thanks for the tips guys. Used tastyBrew.com's brew calculator, and have "finalized" my recipe as below. I have the grains, malt and yeast all on hand, and will be brewing it up Friday morning before going out of town for the weekend.

Blonde Ale attempt #1

Style Comparison
Low RECIPEHigh
OG 1.045 1.052 1.060
FG 1.008 1.013 1.015
IBU 15 32 33
SRM 2 3 8
ABV 4 5.0 6

Stats
OG 1.052
FG 1.013
IBU 32
ABV 5.0 %
SRM 3


2.5 gal boil / 5.25 gals finished wort

Steeping Grains:
1 lb American Vienna
1 lb American Wheat

Extract:
5.5 Light DME

1.75 oz Saaz Hops for 60 mins
1.25 oz Saaz Hops for 10 mins

US - 05 Dry yeast


From what I have read about the Saaz hops and the US -05 , I am hoping this comes off real nice and clean. I did up the hops from my original thoughts, and it estimates the IBUs right at the edge of what it is calling for the style - but hey - watery beer should still taste like beer - right?

The 5.0 ABV is a little more than I want actually - had thought of a 6 gal. batch to drop it, but gonna go ahead and stick with the 5.25 gals. ( I just brewed a kit Blonde that is lower, so may as well enjoy this one )