New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

[wepeeler]

Nobody's doing a mix of 2-row & Golden Promise for the base malt anymore?
I seem to remember that being popular a few years ago.

Personally, I got away from GP. I prefer it in British/Amber Ales.

 

[BeerFst]

That super light color appears even lighter in the photo due to extra light shining right on the glass. I've had neipas in that range before. 2 Row, White wheat, Flaked Oats: 65%, 20% 15%. Kind of boring grain flavor to be honest. Let's the hops shine, but I prefer a slightly darker color, say more orange. @Dgallo gets good results with a small amount of honey malt.

I've recently switched to Mecca Grade 2 Row and White Wheat with some carafoam, and that gets me a nice deep orange. I feel it doesn't oxidize as fast either. I'd like to say it has a more complex grain flavor as well, but I don't have anything to measure, except my brain. And that might not be the best indicator lol.

Flaked oats have higher manganese content which speeds the oxidation reactions. Maybe that's not the exact scientific method, but Mn definitely makes it worse. It is a big reason why many have switched to oat malt or GNO (basically oat crystal) as these have lower Mn content. I do think Flaked oats still have their place, but your observations are in line previously posted articles.

I swore Janish wrote about this, maybe it was in the book, I couldnt find it on his blog. Actually I just found this article which points out it was in his book.

https://beermaverick.com/how-to-reduce-oxidation-of-new-england-hazy-ipas/
"According to Scott Janish, author of The New IPA, “Oxygen needs to be converted to a radical activated form before it can react with other species in beer. This activation can be caused by trace metals in beer, like iron, copper, or manganese.” Scott added “Unmalted grains have more manganese than malted grains.”

 

[wepeeler]

Flaked oats have higher manganese content which speeds the oxidation reactions. Maybe that's not the exact scientific method, but Mn definitely makes it worse. It is a big reason why many have switched to oat malt or GNO (basically oat crystal) as these have lower Mn content. I do think Flaked oats still have their place, but your observations are in line previously posted articles.

I swore Janish wrote about this, maybe it was in the book, I couldnt find it on his blog. Actually I just found this article which points out it was in his book.

https://beermaverick.com/how-to-reduce-oxidation-of-new-england-hazy-ipas/
"According to Scott Janish, author of The New IPA, “Oxygen needs to be converted to a radical activated form before it can react with other species in beer. This activation can be caused by trace metals in beer, like iron, copper, or manganese.” Scott added “Unmalted grains have more manganese than malted grains.”

I haven't used flaked oats in about 6 months, or 8 batches or so. I feel the end product is much better. I didn't switch specifically because of oxidation issues, as I've been lucky to not have experienced extreme oxidation, but I'm definitely aware of the literature regarding flaked adjuncts and oxidation and shelf life! Love Janish's book. Thanks man!

 

[Jimmy_Hops]

Nobody's doing a mix of 2-row & Golden Promise for the base malt anymore?
I seem to remember that being popular a few years ago.

9 lb (54.6%) - Viking 2-Row Xtra Pale Malt - Grain - 1.8 °L
4 lb (24.2%) - Simpsons Pale Ale Golden Promise - Grain - 2.4 °L
1 1b (6.1%) - Briess Carapils - Grain - 1.5 °L
1 Ib (6.1%) - Oats, Flaked - Grain - 2.5°L
8 oz (3%) - Thomas Fawcett Oats, Malted - Grain - 2 °L
8 oz (3%) - Wheat Flaked - Grain - 1°L
8 oz (3%) - Briess Wheat White Malt - Grain - 2.3 °L
This is my newest batch and it is great, still needs some carbonation but the aroma is flying out of the glass. And the color is beautiful (even without the flash on, just bad lighting in my basement). All that to say I used some Golden Promise in this recipe and it is working well.

 

[Rob2010SS]

View attachment 763896
9 lb (54.6%) - Viking 2-Row Xtra Pale Malt - Grain - 1.8 °L
4 lb (24.2%) - Simpsons Pale Ale Golden Promise - Grain - 2.4 °L
1 1b (6.1%) - Briess Carapils - Grain - 1.5 °L
1 Ib (6.1%) - Oats, Flaked - Grain - 2.5°L
8 oz (3%) - Thomas Fawcett Oats, Malted - Grain - 2 °L
8 oz (3%) - Wheat Flaked - Grain - 1°L
8 oz (3%) - Briess Wheat White Malt - Grain - 2.3 °L
This is my newest batch and it is great, still needs some carbonation but the aroma is flying out of the glass. And the color is beautiful (even without the flash on, just bad lighting in my basement). All that to say I used some Golden Promise in this recipe and it is working well.

Can I ask what your SRM is at on that recipe? Beautiful beer my friend!

 

[Adam Zerwick]

View attachment 763896
9 lb (54.6%) - Viking 2-Row Xtra Pale Malt - Grain - 1.8 °L
4 lb (24.2%) - Simpsons Pale Ale Golden Promise - Grain - 2.4 °L
1 1b (6.1%) - Briess Carapils - Grain - 1.5 °L
1 Ib (6.1%) - Oats, Flaked - Grain - 2.5°L
8 oz (3%) - Thomas Fawcett Oats, Malted - Grain - 2 °L
8 oz (3%) - Wheat Flaked - Grain - 1°L
8 oz (3%) - Briess Wheat White Malt - Grain - 2.3 °L
This is my newest batch and it is great, still needs some carbonation but the aroma is flying out of the glass. And the color is beautiful (even without the flash on, just bad lighting in my basement). All that to say I used some Golden Promise in this recipe and it is working well.

Looks very similar to the Verdant recipe for Even Sharks Need Water. When I tried this recipe out the color was spot on with what the OP was striving for. Brewfather had this at 3.9 SRM.

 

[Jimmy_Hops]

Can I ask what your SRM is at on that recipe? Beautiful beer my friend!

It is based on the Verdant recipe and Brew Father says it’s 4.3 SRM. I used Mosaic, Sabro, and Galaxy in the dry hop incase you were wondering as I know different hops can add more “haze” than others.

 

[nebulabrewing]

Nobody's doing a mix of 2-row & Golden Promise for the base malt anymore?
I seem to remember that being popular a few years ago.

It's the only base malt I use in my go-to recipe. I've brewed them over the years with many different base malts, but I enjoy that one best.

 

[R.A.I.D]

Do you remove your WP hops when transferring the wort to the fermenter? Or do you let the WP hops into the fermenter?

I guess I am supposed to remove them, but then WP hopping with loose pellets it is hard to separate them completely from the wort before the transfer.

 

[nebulabrewing]

Do you remove your WP hops when transferring the wort to the fermenter? Or do you let the WP hops into the fermenter?

I guess I am supposed to remove them, but then WP hopping with loose pellets it is hard to separate them completely from the wort before the transfer.

I've brewed many hazy IPA's over the years, and I've done both. I've thrown everything in and transferred it all to the fv. I've bagged my hops and removed them once I've transferred to the fv. The results weren't different enough for me to notice, so I bag my WP to make cleaning easier.

 

[Dgallo]

Do you remove your WP hops when transferring the wort to the fermenter? Or do you let the WP hops into the fermenter?

I guess I am supposed to remove them, but then WP hopping with loose pellets it is hard to separate them completely from the wort before the transfer.

You should transfer as little of the hop material and trub to the fv as possible. This will greatly improve head retention and can help minimize any hopburn from the hotside additions. Also will help in stable haze

 

[nebulabrewing]

You should transfer as little of the hop material and trub to the fv as possible. This will greatly improve head retention and can help minimize any hopburn from the hotside additions. Also will help in stable haze

^ Good info as well.

 

[bailey mountain brewer]

I had one drop clear a couple months ago that had great haze to it for the first 3 weeks .. after reviewing my process I had to chalk it up to transferring to much trub, it wasn't oxidation and the beer was still good but no haze and poor head retention.

 

[BeerFst]

Do you remove your WP hops when transferring the wort to the fermenter? Or do you let the WP hops into the fermenter?

I guess I am supposed to remove them, but then WP hopping with loose pellets it is hard to separate them completely from the wort before the transfer.

I just let it settle out but i dont go to any lengths to remove them. Usually I'll get some when i first open the ball valve, then towards the end depending on how much trub i end up with ill probably allow some into then. the majority definitely stay in the kettle. Though I am doing that less to keep the hops out as i am worried about extra trub in the fermenter. I ferment in corny's so extra trub just means less beer in the end.

on the use of GP, I was always under the impression it wasnt ideal for NEIPA cause it (and most UK malts) had lower protein content than 2 row and pilsner (including continental). Now we add plenty of high protein malts so the smaller contribution from the base malt is probably near irrelevant. I tend to stick to 2row for simplicity sake

 

[wepeeler]

You should transfer as little of the hop material and trub to the fv as possible. This will greatly improve head retention and can help minimize any hopburn from the hotside additions. Also will help in stable haze

I dump almost everything into the fermentor. Never had issues with haze or head retention. Hop burn has subsided after soft crashing yeast before DHing...

 

[Dgallo]

I dump almost everything into the fermentor. Never had issues with haze or head retention. Hop burn has subsided after soft crashing yeast before DHing...

When was the last time you tried to leave it all out and compared

 

[R.A.I.D]

@Dgallo how was your raw neipa received in the club?

 

[wepeeler]

When was the last time you tried to leave it all out and compared

Touché

 

[Dgallo]

@Dgallo how was your raw neipa received in the club?

No one knew that there was anything different about that beer vs the typical NEIPA I make. When I did reveal it wasn’t boiled just pasteurized, they were surprised

 

[Dgallo]

Touché

Lol That was a genuine question though. Give it a shot sometime but remember to plan for atleast an extra 1/2 to 3/4 gallon of volume. I think you’ll be able to immediately notice the difference in the foam itself and how much tighter/lighter the head is.

 

[wepeeler]

Lol That was a genuine question though. Give it a shot sometime but remember to plan for atleast an extra 1/2 to 3/4 gallon of volume. I think you’ll be able to immediately notice the difference in the foam itself and how much tighter/lighter the head is.

I don't use the trub stopper in my kettle. I usually just pick up the kettle and dump most everything in. I'll have to try it again.

 

[Rob2010SS]

Lol That was a genuine question though. Give it a shot sometime but remember to plan for atleast an extra 1/2 to 3/4 gallon of volume. I think you’ll be able to immediately notice the difference in the foam itself and how much tighter/lighter the head is.

How do you separate it out in your system? Do you have a hop stopper in the bottom of your kettle?

I have a big hop spider. Thinking I could use that...

 

[wepeeler]

How do you separate it out in your system? Do you have a hop stopper in the bottom of your kettle?

I have a big hop spider. Thinking I could use that...

I hate my hop spider. It clogs with the hot break. Forget about anything more than an ounce or 2 of hops. Clogs if you look at it funny...

 

[Rob2010SS]

I hate my hop spider. It clogs with the hot break. Forget about anything more than an ounce or 2 of hops. Clogs if you look at it funny...

I've actually had fairly good luck with it. One of our hazies, we used it for the WP additions and it handled it quite well. I stopped using it because I wasn't sure if I was getting the full potential out of those hops being contained in that thing.

 

[wepeeler]

I've actually had fairly good luck with it. One of our hazies, we used it for the WP additions and it handled it quite well. I stopped using it because I wasn't sure if I was getting the full potential out of those hops being contained in that thing.

This is what I have. It sucks.

I was also worried about extraction, so it was an easy decision to stop using it. Glad you had good luck.

 

[Rob2010SS]

This is what I have. It sucks.

I was also worried about extraction, so it was an easy decision to stop using it. Glad you had good luck.

What do you use? Extraction is still a concern for me with using it...

 

[wepeeler]

What do you use? Extraction is still a concern for me with using it...

All my hops go into the kettle raw. My SSBrewtech kettle has a trub dam, but I don't use that anymore either. I typically just dump everything into the fermentor, except for the last 1/4 gallon or so.

 

[aaronm13]

Have to say, the false bottom/filter design on the Grainfather G40 is an incredible piece of engineering and love being able to throw hops in loose now. I've gone with around 7-8oz hot side hops and so far with no issues at all. Will be doing a Pliny clone next with a lot of hot side hops so that will really put it to the test. Hated using a spider but the G30 didn't like hops at all.

 

[tracer bullet]

This is what I have. It sucks.

Had one like it as well. Way too fine. I went to a 400 micron and that helped tremendously. It doesn't block everything but it takes care of a huge percentage of it and I'll take what I can get.

I've found for a reasonably trub-free transfer I just give it time. After cooldown and all else, I leave the wort and start working on cleaning things and putting them away. Then probably grab lunch (I'm a morning brewer). After an hour, especially say two hours, it's super settled and what I get off the top doesn't settle much more in the fermenter.

 

[beervoid]

I hate my hop spider. It clogs with the hot break. Forget about anything more than an ounce or 2 of hops. Clogs if you look at it funny...

I have the same experience, what has helped a bit for me is scooping the hotbreak out that floating on the top