New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

[Dgallo]

1.098... Damn! That triple territory?

Not sure what it is, I can't really enjoy triples. I keep trying them and I usually don't like them. I just recently had one that I really enjoyed but it's the first. Have yet to find one local to me that I enjoy.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/threads/new-england-style-tipa.679435/

 

[HopsAreGood]

I'm in the NW burbs of Chicago, about 10 min from the WI border. I just had one that my sister in law brought me - Iroc Z from Wiley Roots Brewing. That, I enjoyed thoroughly. But I can honestly say that if I had access to it, that's the only triple I'd buy at this point. Typically the triples for me are too boozy and I can't do them. That alcohol has to be well hidden for me to like it.

I completely agree with the boozy aspect of them, but I guess it kind of just comes with the territory. I’m in central New Jersey and have access to Equilibrium and Other Half...both make ridiculously good triples. Also Magnify and Kane make great triples and Magnify has been making quadruples lately and they’re just awesome. 12-12.5%. It’s definitely not the kind of beer you can drink all the time, but to sit down and appreciate a well crafted triple or quadruple ipa is quite nice.

This beer was insane:

https://untappd.com/b/magnify-brewing-company-next-level/4244045

 

[Noob_Brewer]

For those of you who have blended dry yeast, are you simply weighting out the yeast and then pitching dry or are you weighing out yeast and then rehydrating the blend prior to pitch? Ive never blended dry yeast before, and always have rehydrated prior to pitching. My plan is to pitch an 80%/20% blend of S33/S05. Ive been sitting on S33 for a while but due to the lower attenuation, was thinking a little S05 should help with attenuation without "hopefully" getting in the way of the S33 yeast character.

 

[HopsAreGood]

For those of you who have blended dry yeast, are you simply weighting out the yeast and then pitching dry or are you weighing out yeast and then rehydrating the blend prior to pitch? Ive never blended dry yeast before, and always have rehydrated prior to pitching. My plan is to pitch an 80%/20% blend of S33/S05. Ive been sitting on S33 for a while but due to the lower attenuation, was thinking a little S05 should help with attenuation without "hopefully" getting in the way of the S33 yeast character.

I’ve always just pitched dry without rehydrating. If you’re accustomed to rehydrating, I can’t see a reason why rehydrating the blend would be a problem. All you’re doing is re introducing the dried yeast into a liquid state prior to introducing it to sugars.

So in your case, I’d say weigh out the blend, and then rehydrate and pitch the same way you’ve done before.

 

[Frieds]

Anyone ever used noble hops? I got 100g of Spalter as a free gift in an order from BeerCo and I have no idea wtf to do with it as I don’t brew or drink German styles. I opened the bag and they smell pretty nice. I’d feel bad wasting hops.

 

[ihavenonickname]

60% Pilsner, 20% malted oats, 20% malted wheat 1.064-1.012

Hbc 586 and lupomax citra 1:1
4oz hot side
8oz dry hop

Verdant IPA yeast

Did all the dry hopspost fermentation in a ferm purged dry hop keg. Cold crashed several days at 40F. Transferred to dry hops for 2 days at 58F and rolled the keg around twice a day. I’m really digging this process, it’s getting me that bright hop bag effect. I forget who I should give credit to, @HopsAreGood I think.

Aroma is big sweet fruit mostly pineapple and some sweet cream. Taste is bright citrus, melon, pith and hop spice. I really liked the aroma in the bag of the 586, really sweet fruit. This combo doesn’t have any of that dank or pine depth, but I don't mind

 

[secretlevel]

I'm in the NW burbs of Chicago, about 10 min from the WI border. I just had one that my sister in law brought me - Iroc Z from Wiley Roots Brewing. That, I enjoyed thoroughly. But I can honestly say that if I had access to it, that's the only triple I'd buy at this point. Typically the triples for me are too boozy and I can't do them. That alcohol has to be well hidden for me to like it.

Hop Butcher triples are amazing if you can buy them in time, it feels like drinking a single or a double IPA, but then you're suddenly on the ground after a couple Which is kind of my issue with Triples... delicious, but I don't have the tolerance to drink more than one or two. I really dug Run to Daylight and Deeper Dish though.
Phase Three have some good ones too.

Anyone ever used noble hops? I got 100g of Spalter as a free gift in an order from BeerCo and I have no idea wtf to do with it as I don’t brew or drink German styles. I opened the bag and they smell pretty nice. I’d feel bad wasting hops.

You can use them as bittering or late additions for complexity. Alternatively you can make a blonde ale or something for the summer.

 

[ThatVideoKid]

Anyone ever used noble hops? I got 100g of Spalter as a free gift in an order from BeerCo and I have no idea wtf to do with it as I don’t brew or drink German styles. I opened the bag and they smell pretty nice. I’d feel bad wasting hops.

Honestly I bet a 25-50g 20min addition of Spalt would be a nice background note, though I'd avoid pine/resin/herbal in my other hop additions to make sure it doesn't skew too far away from citrus/fruit in the overall profile.

If it were me though, I would just make a nice crushable lager / cream ale lol.

 

[Noob_Brewer]

I’ve always just pitched dry without rehydrating. If you’re accustomed to rehydrating, I can’t see a reason why rehydrating the blend would be a problem. All you’re doing is re introducing the dried yeast into a liquid state prior to introducing it to sugars.

So in your case, I’d say weigh out the blend, and then rehydrate and pitch the same way you’ve done before.

Just pitched this. went the rehydrating route which is what Im used to with dry yeast. did 79% S33 and 21% S05. Brew day was a little off as I ended up with more wort than anticipated (head scratcher for now) so was low on OG by 2pts. Nevertheless, I'll let ya know how it goes. Thanks.

 

[aaronm13]

My Citra/Nelson DIPA 2 weeks in the keg now and tastes very good already. Having to add the US-05 to fix the stuck fermentation didn't have any negative impact on things. Was tasting it over the 2 weeks and was not quite there so on Friday I added around 1.5oz of extra hops to the serving keg and has taken it to the next level. Really a fan of this approach and will probably do it as standard going forward so I won't have to open the keg to throw the extra hops in. (Bit of sediment in the glass from this bit will settle with the floating dip tube in the keg)

Dry hopped at 50 for around 30 hours then started the cold crash for another 2 days and the results are so smooth, no hop burn at all.

2.5% honey malt in this. Love what it adds to the colour of the beer. What would be a good alternative for the added colour without masking the hop flavors?

 

[Dgallo]

View attachment 730730
My Citra/Nelson DIPA 2 weeks in the keg now and tastes very good already. Having to add the US-05 to fix the stuck fermentation didn't have any negative impact on things. Was tasting it over the 2 weeks and was not quite there so on Friday I added around 1.5oz of extra hops to the serving keg and has taken it to the next level. Really a fan of this approach and will probably do it as standard going forward so I won't have to open the keg to throw the extra hops in. (Bit of sediment in the glass from this bit will settle with the floating dip tube in the keg)

Dry hopped at 50 for around 30 hours then started the cold crash for another 2 days and the results are so smooth, no hop burn at all.

2.5% honey malt in this. Love what it adds to the colour of the beer. What would be a good alternative for the added colour without masking the hop flavors?

Looks nice man.

What hop flavors get masked by honey malt? I’m genuinely confused by this coming up over the past week or so. Honey malt is a lightly kilned malt, tht its self provides a some sweetness but very little overall flavor and is usually 20-25L. It’s not a crystal malt nor does it have a strong overall flavor such as biscuit, Munich or Vienna, so I’m really wondering where the masking of hop flavor claim is coming from?

If your looking to get similar color from a different grain, use any grain that has a 20-30l range at the same percentage, a 10-15L grain at twice the percentage, or a 40-60L grain at half the percentage. I used to use Caramunich more often but prefer honey malt over it. In my pale ales where I want more malt character, I use biscuit

 

[aaronm13]

Looks nice man.

What hop flavors get masked by honey malt? I’m genuinely confused by this coming up over the past week or so. Honey malt is a lightly kilned malt, tht its self provides a some sweetness but very little overall flavor and is usually 20-25L. It’s not a crystal malt nor does it have a strong overall flavor such as biscuit, Munich or Vienna, so I’m really wondering where the masking of hop flavor claim is coming from?

If your looking to get simile color from a different grain, use any grain that has a 20-30l range. I used to use Caramunich more often but prefer honey malt over it

I don't get any masked flavors either, was just wondering did I miss something. My beers with honey malt always look and taste a lot better than the ones without. I guess it's all personal preference.

 

[iluvmarzen]

A quick question after reading over some of the later thread posts. It seems the current trend is to skip a dry hop during fermentation and just dry hop post ferm colder. If this is working for people, how are you achieving biotransformation? Are you using higher whirlpool rates? Any time I’ve done this in the past the beer is just slightly hazy, but no opaque/milky look and haze that biotrans achieves (before anyone posts milky haze shouldn’t be a goal, in my experience there’s a huge different in aroma between one that is and isn’t opaque). Should we be using something like aromazyme during fermentation? I keep my pH post whirlpool around 4.7-4.9 and my water is high in chloride

 

[beervoid]

A quick question after reading over some of the later thread posts. It seems the current trend is to skip a dry hop during fermentation and just dry hop post ferm colder. If this is working for people, how are you achieving biotransformation? Are you using higher whirlpool rates? Any time I’ve done this in the past the beer is just slightly hazy, but no opaque/milky look and haze that biotrans achieves (before anyone posts milky haze shouldn’t be a goal, in my experience there’s a huge different in aroma between one that is and isn’t opaque). Should we be using something like aromazyme during fermentation? I keep my pH post whirlpool around 4.7-4.9 and my water is high in chloride

Which yeast?

 

[Dgallo]

Haven’t brewed a NEIPA in a while but I’m going to end up doing a split 12 gallon batch(6gal into both fermenters)this week at some point

Water
Ca: 120
Mg: 16
Cl: 230
Na: 84
So4: 138
5.3 ph

grains
77% - 2row
20% - spelt
3% - honey malt

Mash
40 mins - 146
30 mins - 162
10 mins - mash out

yeast
Imperial a24 - dryhop
(0.65 million cell/ml/*p)

Hotside hops
Columbus t90 @ 60 & 10 - target 30ibu

whirlpool @ 170*f for 20 mins
Columbus LUPOMAX
Cascade LUPOMAX
1:1 ratio

Dryhop FV 1
Enigma
Nelson
Mosaic LUPOMAX
2:1:1
(Going for dank assorted berry profile

Dryhop FV 2
Bru-1 t90 & LUPOMAX
Vic Secret
Sabro LUPOMAX
3:1:1
(Going for pineapple/island tropical profile)

softcrashing and dryhoping at 56-58*f

Will follow up when in the keg

Ended up brewing this last night. Went well for the most part. I completely max out my mashtun capacity with the 13 gallon batch (6 gallons in each fermenter) and I saw a little over 5% drop in efficiency so my OG was 1.071.

now I know why guys who do 10 gallon batches have rigs and pumps. The kettle and the weight of the wort was 130 lbs lol. It was a b!tch getting the kettle up in the utility sink to run the chiller lol

 

[tbaldwin000]

A quick question after reading over some of the later thread posts. It seems the current trend is to skip a dry hop during fermentation and just dry hop post ferm colder. If this is working for people, how are you achieving biotransformation? Are you using higher whirlpool rates? Any time I’ve done this in the past the beer is just slightly hazy, but no opaque/milky look and haze that biotrans achieves (before anyone posts milky haze shouldn’t be a goal, in my experience there’s a huge different in aroma between one that is and isn’t opaque). Should we be using something like aromazyme during fermentation? I keep my pH post whirlpool around 4.7-4.9 and my water is high in chloride

It's not biotransformation that causes the haze. The haze is a mixture of things, mostly polyphenols from the hops and malt complexing with proteins in the wort/beer. When I make a NEIPA (with the method you describe) the beer (before I dry hop it cold) looks like an almost clear and very pale golden ale. After I take it off the yeast, dry hop cold, agitate several times a day for a few days, then take it off the hops and allow it to precipitate out any remaining 'bits' of hops and yeast, I am left with something that looks like this.

The cold and agitation are key to the success of this process, in my experience, as is getting the beer off the yeast first. And I do agree that a milky, thick, opaque haze is desirable for the style both in terms of appearance, aroma, body and mouthfeel.

EDIT: Readability.

 

[couchsending]

Adding hops during fermentation is more likely to cause a beer to clear than adding them after fermentation.

Opacity can correlate to aroma but for the most part it’s not really a direct correlation. If dry hop rates are high enough and the specific hops are high enough in polyphenols you can make an almost clear beer pre dry hop, totally opaque. And if done correctly it will stay that way.

There’s a great CB&B podcast with Steve Luke from Cloudburst that just came out. Lots of great info on hops and brewing hoppy beer.

Ditch the flaked adjuncts! They’re just causing your hoppy beer to fall off faster. Add more hops to the boil for a longer lasting impact on both flavor and aroma. The more High protein adjuncts/malt you add to the grist the more likely you are to get elevated levels of bitterness due to the protein/polyphenol interaction on the hotside.


Opacity does directly correlate to a palate fullness and potential softness (although more often harshness). Some or the most explosive aromatic beers I’ve had have been perfectly clear.

 

[BeerFst]

Adding hops during fermentation is more likely to cause a beer to clear than adding them after fermentation.

Opacity can correlate to aroma but for the most part it’s not really a direct correlation. If dry hop rates are high enough and the specific hops are high enough in polyphenols you can make an almost clear beer pre dry hop, totally opaque. And if done correctly it will stay that way.

There’s a great CB&B podcast with Steve Luke from Cloudburst that just came out. Lots of great info on hops and brewing hoppy beer.

Ditch the flaked adjuncts! They’re just causing your hoppy beer to fall off faster. Add more hops to the boil for a longer lasting impact on both flavor and aroma. The more High protein adjuncts/malt you add to the grist the more likely you are to get elevated levels of bitterness due to the protein/polyphenol interaction on the hotside.


Opacity does directly correlate to a palate fullness and potential softness (although more often harshness). Some or the most explosive aromatic beers I’ve had have been perfectly clear.

Were any articles on the protein/polyphenol interaction mentioned or just summarized in the conversation?

I think I experienced exactly what is described on a recent ~45% wheat (malt and flaked) NEIPA turned West coast with a significant amount of Vic Secret. I had posted about it a couple months ago. My first inclination was hop burn, but after adding Gelatin, the beer turned into one of my clearest beers ever. A portion of the initial bitterness could definitely have been attributed to hop burn, but not all. The bitterness persisted, and reading your post just seems to align too well with what I observed. I just did a quick google and found some food articles, but nothing directly beer related.

Interestingly, however, when I did a similar beer with 50% oat (malt, flaked, GNO) and Citra/Galaxy i did not have this problem at all. Similar hop schedule and still with the high polyphenol galaxy. The only other differences between the two beers were FG, with the oat beer under attenuating to 1.024 and the wheat version over attenuating to 1.010. ABV also went accordingly ~5.5 Oat, ~7.5 Wheat. It's possible the high FG in oat/galaxy helped mask it, but the bitterness in the Vic Secret/Wheat beer was also rather abrasive, and i dont think it could have masked much.

 

[CrookedElbowBrewing]

Initially I was surprised by how many top tier brewers DO NOT dry hop during active fermentation when brewing hazy IPAs. (And there are some who do it) The main reasons stated were the preference to harvest yeast before adding hops, avoiding “muddled” hop aromas, and minimizing hop aromatics from being scrubbed out of the fermenter by CO2.
You will still get biotransformation occurring when the yeast work their magic on the whirlpool hop compounds that make it into the fermenter. I’ve brewed a few NEIPAs and dry hopped early with good results but I’ve shifted towards adding my first dry hop towards the tail end of fermentation even though I’m not harvesting yeast. It’s mostly an attempt to prevent all the hop aromatics from getting scrubbed and hoping the yeast utilize any O2 that gets introduced. If there’s still yeast present and you are in the fermentation temp range for the yeast, hop creep will occur and there’s probably some level of biotransformation.
As far as protein adjuncts I agree that they’re more for mouthfeel characteristics and not entirely necessary for haze formation although they play a contributing factor. I know some breweries using up to 40-50% flaked oats and they make a tasty beer with great mouthfeel but you don’t have to go that high to make a hazy NEIPA. As stated before, the haze is a byproduct of the process and not necessarily the main goal. I dry hop ciders that have no protein adjuncts and they turn out hazy.

 

[Northern_Brewer]

Courtesy of Jess Kidden by way of LostLagers - does this from 1935 sound familiar?

 

[tbaldwin000]

Courtesy of Jess Kidden by way of LostLagers - does this from 1935 sound familiar?
View attachment 731136

Nothing is new, only forgotten.

 

[eugles]

View attachment 730591View attachment 730592
60% Pilsner, 20% malted oats, 20% malted wheat 1.064-1.012

Hbc 586 and lupomax citra 1:1
4oz hot side
8oz dry hop

Verdant IPA yeast

Did all the dry hopspost fermentation in a ferm purged dry hop keg. Cold crashed several days at 40F. Transferred to dry hops for 2 days at 58F and rolled the keg around twice a day. I’m really digging this process, it’s getting me that bright hop bag effect. I forget who I should give credit to, @HopsAreGood I think.

Aroma is big sweet fruit mostly pineapple and some sweet cream. Taste is bright citrus, melon, pith and hop spice. I really liked the aroma in the bag of the 586, really sweet fruit. This combo doesn’t have any of that dank or pine depth, but I don't mind

Looks great. Is the process you mention to have the hops already in the keg that is being purged by fermentation? Thinking of doing that next brew day.

 

[TBA]

Question about dry hopping in a fermentation purged keg. I can’t fit the keg in my fermentation chamber. Is there going to be an issue with those hops sitting at 80-90 degrees (garage in Florida) for several days? Any idea how long it actually needs to be connected during fermentation to properly purge the keg? Like 20-30 points? Only add hops and purge during last bit of fermentation and move inside the house until ready for closed transfer.

 

[eugles]

Curious about how you folks carb up your hazies? Fill a keg and set it and forget it? Shake? What temp do you serve at and what volumes are you targeting. I feel like this part of my process hasn’t had a whole lot of attention paid and my brews are lacking something

 

[Frieds]

Curious about how you folks carb up your hazies? Fill a keg and set it and forget it? Shake? What temp do you serve at and what volumes are you targeting. I feel like this part of my process hasn’t had a whole lot of attention paid and my brews are lacking something

I fill my kegs and then set and forget at serving pressure. There was a data sheet floating around these threads from an other half citra daydream and on it it listed that beer being carbonated to 2.42 volumes.

 

[ThatVideoKid]

Curious about how you folks carb up your hazies? Fill a keg and set it and forget it? Shake? What temp do you serve at and what volumes are you targeting. I feel like this part of my process hasn’t had a whole lot of attention paid and my brews are lacking something

Burst carb. 40psi for 24hrs, tap and see where its at. usually 24-36hrs to get where I want it, then turn down to serving pressure.

Normal carb (2.5) and 38 degrees.

 

[BeerFst]

Question about dry hopping in a fermentation purged keg. I can’t fit the keg in my fermentation chamber. Is there going to be an issue with those hops sitting at 80-90 degrees (garage in Florida) for several days? Any idea how long it actually needs to be connected during fermentation to properly purge the keg? Like 20-30 points? Only add hops and purge during last bit of fermentation and move inside the house until ready for closed transfer.

not sure how many points you’d need, but the more you flush the more you reduce the dissolved oxygen. It probably doesn’t take much to create 5g of co2 but ideally you’d go thru 20+ to keep the flush going.

that said I wouldn’t leave them in that garage that got. Plus you might have some weird gas dynamics going on with the gas wanting to expand considerably at 80-90 compared to 65-70. Perhaps I’m just over complicating it.

personally I haven’t tried the ferm gas to flush yet. I do Star San purge with a tank, then transfer in my beer.Start flowing a few psi into the keg, pop the lid and dump my hops in. Close it up and purge severs more times. I’ve yet to have a an oxidation problem with this method. It’s also in line with the pros, at least those without fancy flush/dump contraptions.

 

[R.A.I.D]

Question about dry hopping in a fermentation purged keg. I can’t fit the keg in my fermentation chamber. Is there going to be an issue with those hops sitting at 80-90 degrees (garage in Florida) for several days? Any idea how long it actually needs to be connected during fermentation to properly purge the keg? Like 20-30 points? Only add hops and purge during last bit of fermentation and move inside the house until ready for closed transfer.

You could keep the dry hop keg attached for the most active part of the fermentation. Points needed is discussed here:

https://www.themodernbrewhouse.com/...rging-transferring-stabilizing-finished-beer/(Google: "KEGGING WITH CARE: A GUIDE TO PURGING.")

Another option is to keep the hold in the freezer during fermentation and then ferment something else when you need your flushed dry hop keg.

 

[tbaldwin000]

Probably London? LOL (Sorry)

No, not London, Manchester... potentially via god knows where. Historic British brewers shared yeast from others often when their house yeast would spoil.

 

[tld6008]

Curious about how you folks carb up your hazies? Fill a keg and set it and forget it? Shake? What temp do you serve at and what volumes are you targeting. I feel like this part of my process hasn’t had a whole lot of attention paid and my brews are lacking something

33 psi for 48 hrs @ 39f. Then turn down to 12psi. Works for me