New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

[NSMikeD]

How many psi would you need to put onto the fermonster with like 1 gallon of headspace in order to have no negative pressure inside of it for a 70F to 35F chill?

You wouldn’t be putting psi in but rather volumes of CO2 in. If you are using a regulator that controls psi then would need to know the equivalent psi at 35* so the regulator would add the correct volume. This method would automatically adjust the volume. Otherwise you would need to determine the volume and put the CO2 canister on a scale.

At 70 air pressure is 14.7 psi at sea level
From a tire pressure chart I found:
At 32* the equivalent of 10psi @68* is 8.3 and 20 psi is 17.6

the halfway point is 12.8psi. That would give you a rough estimate without going nuts using PV = nRT

If you can’t can’t add volume since it would just escape.

 

[NSMikeD]

You wouldn’t be putting psi in but rather volumes of CO2 in. If you are using a regulator that controls psi then would need to know the equivalent psi at 35* so the regulator would add the correct volume. This method would automatically adjust the volume. Otherwise you would need to determine the volume and put the CO2 canister on a scale.

At 70 air pressure is 14.7 psi at sea level
From a tire pressure chart I found:
At 32* the equivalent of 10psi @68* is 8.3 and 20 psi is 17.6

the halfway point is 12.8psi. That would give you a rough estimate without going nuts using PV = nRT

If you can’t can’t add volume since it would just escape.

I’m trying to account for this difference. I get that there is a lot more than CO2 to account for what’s in the beer and as the beer ferments gasses are consumed as CO2 replaces the air in the headspace.

I have to try this. Theoretically if I set my regulator to14.7 psi at room temperature at sea level on a calm day etc., nothing should happen

 

[Clyde McCoy]

What kind of schedules are your beers on?

I have been trying -

Day 1-8: Ferment 62-72°F (depending on strain)
Day 9: Soft crash 50-55°F
Day 10: Transfer to DH keg 50-68°F (still testing various temperatures)
Day ~14: Force carbonate 38°F
Day 21: Counter pressure bottle filler

my process is similar to @HopsAreGood

 

[tld6008]

I’m trying to account for this difference. I get that there is a lot more than CO2 to account for what’s in the beer and as the beer ferments gasses are consumed as CO2 replaces the air in the headspace.

I have to try this. Theoretically if I set my regulator to14.7 psi at room temperature at sea level on a calm day etc., nothing should happen

I don't agree with this at all. If you put 1 psi on the regulator and cold crash 1 psi will continue to be present in the void above the beer as the temp decreases assuming the regulator is working properly. I frequently use a plastic bag about 1 cu ft volume inflated with CO2 and it is not completely deflated crashing from 70 to 48 f

 

[NSMikeD]

I don't agree with this at all. If you put 1 psi on the regulator and cold crash 1 psi will continue to be present in the void above the beer as the temp decreases assuming the regulator is working properly. I frequently use a plastic bag about 1 cu ft volume inflated with CO2 and it is not completely deflated crashing from 70 to 48 f

We agree. I should have worded it better. When I said nothing would happen I mean their would be an equilibrium so the regulator would bot need to add CO2. In my first post I noted your concept, that a regulator would keep it at the target pressure by adding volume as temp drops. I like your solution. Since you can’t add the needed volume up front (it would just blow out of the airlock) and absent of a CO2 regulator to add volume as the temp drops, a bag (or balloon) filled with CO2 would accomplish the same thing as a CO2 regulator.

 

[BeerFst]

I have to try this. Theoretically if I set my regulator to14.7 psi at room temperature at sea level on a calm day etc., nothing should happen

If you had a PSIA gauge then yes but all of our gauges are PSIG aka gauge pressure. Gauge pressure accounts for atmospheric. Such that 0 on a psig gauge would be 14.7 on a psia one

 

[braindead]

What PSI do you guys ferment at if spunding?
Just got a fermzilla

 

[NSMikeD]

If you had a PSIA gauge then yes but all of our gauges are PSIG aka gauge pressure. Gauge pressure accounts for atmospheric. Such that 0 on a psig gauge would be 14.7 on a psia one

Thank you. That does explain it.

 

[R.A.I.D]

I will try to mix S-33 and S-04 (or Verdant) to get the hop aroma intensity from S-33 and the higher attenuation of S-04. I have checked the fermentation speed of S-33 and S-04. S-33 is the fastest. So I hope it will dominate the fermentation and do its aroma thing and then S-04 will clean up the remaining longer sugar chains afterwards.

I haven't tried mixing yeast before.
I consider a ratio of 2:1 or maybe 10:1 S-33 to S-04.

 

[Noob_Brewer]

I will try to mix S-33 and S-04 (or Verdant) to get the hop aroma intensity from S-33 and the higher attenuation of S-04. I have checked the fermentation speed of S-33 and S-04. S-33 is the fastest. So I hope it will dominate the fermentation and do its aroma thing and then S-04 will clean up the remaining longer sugar chains afterwards.

I haven't tried mixing yeast before.
I consider a ratio of 2:1 or maybe 10:1 S-33 to S-04.

Haven't tried this mix yet myself. What are you thinking about when settling on your ratio of 33/04? seems like you want s-33 to be your main yeast with S-04 being cleanup duty? Are you co-pitching them or adding S-04 later?

 

[Noob_Brewer]

So Ive finally decided to get a little "experimental" in my brewing after learning the home brewing ropes scene I started a little over the past year. This past summer, I posted something on here related to spelt with no response, and then about a month or so ago @Dgallo posted a similar message related to spelt in NEIPA with little response. So after chatting with him about it, decided to live dangerously lol. Went with:

Grain:
75% 2row
20% spelt malt
5% carafoam

Hops:
Moutere, Idaho 7, Nectaron

Yeast A24

This was kegged on sunday and now fully carbed. Imagine it will continue to condition for a little while longer and hit its stride around 10-14 days as is my usual experience. But this is pretty good. This is also my first ever NEIPA with zero oats. Definitely lighter/fluffier/pillowier on the palate compared to with oats, but still a very nice full bodied beer. Still love oats myself in NEIPAs though as the oats seem to give a little more slickness which I perceive as more "juicy" to me. Even though spelt is from the wheat family of grains, it doesn't seem to be "chewy" at all to me which I seem to perceive from white wheat in larger quantities. Spelt does seem to have a little sweetness to it too, but obviously not as much as honey malt. Definitely dig this overall and will be experimenting more and more with spelt. Cheers!

 

[BeerFst]

Gelatin to help drop polyphenols/hop burn?

Dry hopped with 4 oz Citra, 4 oz Vic secret, split between two apps. Both at 60, which I slower than my usual dry hop temp.

Cold crashed for a few days to 58 before hand.

Fermented with A24.

It’s been two weeks on gas in the keezer and almost no change in the mouth coating astringency.

Looks pretty tho.

 

[R.A.I.D]

Haven't tried this mix yet myself. What are you thinking about when settling on your ratio of 33/04? seems like you want s-33 to be your main yeast with S-04 being cleanup duty? Are you co-pitching them or adding S-04 later?

I will pitch a full package of S-33. It should be the work horse.
And then I want enough S-04 for it to be present after S-33 is done.

Ideally the S-04 should be pitched after 48 hours, when S-33 is almost done, but luckily S-33 is the fastest, so I will try to pitch both together, and keep everything sealed after pitching as I usually do.

So maybe 1/3 package of S-04 (or Verdant).

I have also found this chart. It looks like they leave different kinds of sugar behind, so when combining them it might end up being more dry than using just S-04. So maybe it should be mashed at 66-67C.

 

[Dgallo]

Gelatin to help drop polyphenols/hop burn?

Dry hopped with 4 oz Citra, 4 oz Vic secret, split between two apps. Both at 60, which I slower than my usual dry hop temp.

Cold crashed for a few days to 58 before hand.

Fermented with A24.

It’s been two weeks on gas in the keezer and almost no change in the mouth coating astringency.

Looks pretty tho.

It does look great! In my experience, I found you gotta go lower in temp wheb crashing/dryhoping with A24. My guess is it’s the Conan portion of the blend that keeps working at 60. I’ve had good luck at 56. See if that helps next time

 

[BeerFst]

It does look great! In my experience, I found you gotta go lower in temp wheb crashing/dryhoping with A24. My guess is it’s the Conan portion of the blend that keeps working at 60. I’ve had good luck at 56. See if that helps next time

Yeah I kinda thought it might be yeast in suspension. When dropping the second dry hop, there seemed to be some action. I was hoping it was just co2 coming out of solution after being depressurized, having kept it at 10-20psi for those 2 days. It definitely occurred to me it might be more than that.

Didn’t have this problem with the half oats version with Galaxy but that Vic secret is a whole different polyphenol monster.

When I wrote the recipe I held back on it, 2:1 mostly, but when it came to brew/dry hop day I figured why not. Should have stuck to the plan. Also was trying to use up as much as possible being a 2019 bag of VS (unopened). I wanna buy some lupo but I’m being told I have to use up my hops before buying more.....

I think I’ll give the gelatin a shot. Will report back

 

[aaronm13]

2 week update in the keg and it's improving and very drinkable. So good but not great. I think the short, 48 hours max and cool dry hop of 50 degrees for the first 12 hours then cold crashed might have limited the extraction a bit. Going to go 72 hours at 57 degrees then cold crash for the beer I'm dry hopping at the moment. Think the 2020 Nelson is pretty subtle.

 

[ihavenonickname]

How many psi would you need to put onto the fermonster with like 1 gallon of headspace in order to have no negative pressure inside of it for a 70F to 35F chill?

From experience I can guess it will drop about 2-3 psi. I ferment in a 10g keg so I have about 4g head space, I pressurize to 10 psi, put on a spunding valve and cold crash to the 30s, it usually drop to 5psi. This is the only way I feel certain my FV doesn’t have a little leak that sucks back air.

 

[secretlevel]

So Ive finally decided to get a little "experimental" in my brewing after learning the home brewing ropes scene I started a little over the past year. This past summer, I posted something on here related to spelt with no response, and then about a month or so ago @Dgallo posted a similar message related to spelt in NEIPA with little response. So after chatting with him about it, decided to live dangerously lol. Went with:

Grain:
75% 2row
20% spelt malt
5% carafoam

Hops:
Moutere, Idaho 7, Nectaron

Yeast A24

This was kegged on sunday and now fully carbed. Imagine it will continue to condition for a little while longer and hit its stride around 10-14 days as is my usual experience. But this is pretty good. This is also my first ever NEIPA with zero oats. Definitely lighter/fluffier/pillowier on the palate compared to with oats, but still a very nice full bodied beer. Still love oats myself in NEIPAs though as the oats seem to give a little more slickness which I perceive as more "juicy" to me. Even though spelt is from the wheat family of grains, it doesn't seem to be "chewy" at all to me which I seem to perceive from white wheat in larger quantities. Spelt does seem to have a little sweetness to it too, but obviously not as much as honey malt. Definitely dig this overall and will be experimenting more and more with spelt. Cheers!

View attachment 724420View attachment 724421

How was this hop combo? It sounds pretty interesting. I'm assuming Moutere was the highest hop by weight used in the DH?

 

[Noob_Brewer]

How was this hop combo? It sounds pretty interesting. I'm assuming Moutere was the highest hop by weight used in the DH?

Actually no. When I first did my exclusive moutere/nectaron combo that I absolutely loved, I went with almost a 2:1 nectaron to moutere ratio for total hop bill, focusing on slightly more moutere heavy on hot side and then nectaron heavy in the DH. This current one, I didn't have enough of each to repeat it so I used warrior for 60min addition/ a little moutere/nectaron at 10min boil, then was heavy I7 in whirlpool with a touch of moutere/nectaron. Then in DH, I went with 1.5oz of moutere and 6.5oz nectaron (split between two DH charges. So my DH regimen was the same in both beers. I get a good ton of tropical fruit/passionfruit with peach. I think the peach ester vibe that I like to try to get from A24 plays very well with nectaron as well. Really wish I could get my hands on more nectaron now but YVH has been sold out for a while.

 

[AZBeer]

Next NEIPA is in the books. Process went much, MUCH smoother. Perceived bitterness is higher on this one, probably mellow with another week or two in the keg, but maybe also because I increased hops in the whirlpool and in the DH. Maybe next round I will push more hops to the DH and drop back down to 2oz (3gal batch) for the whirlpool.

 

[NSMikeD]

Is my recipe set? My first go at a NEIPA,

2.5 gallon batch
Anvil Foundry 6.5
3 gal FerMonster with modified with pressure lid kit and float ball drain pipe.

Brewfather Numbers

ABV 6.6%
OG 1.064
SG 1.014
SRM 4.4
IBU 49
Dry hops 1.2 oz per gallon


water BF NEIPA profile using RODI water base adding salts and lactic acid:
Ph 5.37
Ca 99
Mg 10
Na 8
Cl 139
SO4 94
HC03. 16

Grains
4.5 lbs Maris Otter 2 row Pale
1 lb Simpson Pale
8oz Flake
8oz Flaked Wheat

Mash
single stage full volume mash 60min @ 150* with rice hulls and recirculating pump


Hops (in ounces and AA in paren)

.25 Amarillo (7.7). First Wort

.75 Amarillo. flame out

Hop,Stand 20 min @180*
.75 Citra (12.8)
.75 Galaxy (13.3)
.75 Mosiac (11.8)


DryHop. (Open lid, stream in CO2 and drop in pellets and promptly close)

Active fermentation (day 2 or 3)
. 75 Citra
.75 Galaxy
.75 Mosiac

after active fermentation (day 5)

Keg at final gravity, pressure transfer using float ball. Approx day 8 - 11


condition at 45*. Use CO2 cartridge and spundling valve to add CO2 during



yeast

1 Pkg Lallmand (LalBrew) New England Pale Ale (hydrated) pitch and primary at 68* , blow off tube




Have I missed anything or anything look wrong? Thanks.

 

[anteater8]

Is my recipe set? My first go at a NEIPA,

2.5 gallon batch
Anvil Foundry 6.5
3 gal FerMonster with modified with pressure lid kit and float ball drain pipe.

Brewfather Numbers

ABV 6.6%
OG 1.064
SG 1.014
SRM 4.4
IBU 49
Dry hops 1.2 oz per gallon


water BF NEIPA profile using RODI water base adding salts and lactic acid:
Ph 5.37
Ca 99
Mg 10
Na 8
Cl 139
SO4 94
HC03. 16

Grains
4.5 lbs Maris Otter 2 row Pale
1 lb Simpson Pale
8oz Flake
8oz Flaked Wheat

Mash
single stage full volume mash 60min @ 150* with rice hulls and recirculating pump


Hops (in ounces and AA in paren)

.25 Amarillo (7.7). First Wort

.75 Amarillo. flame out

Hop,Stand 20 min @180*
.75 Citra (12.8)
.75 Galaxy (13.3)
.75 Mosiac (11.8)


DryHop. (Open lid, stream in CO2 and drop in pellets and promptly close)

Active fermentation (day 2 or 3)
. 75 Citra
.75 Galaxy
.75 Mosiac

after active fermentation (day 5)

Keg at final gravity, pressure transfer using float ball. Approx day 8 - 11


condition at 45*. Use CO2 cartridge and spundling valve to add CO2 during



yeast

1 Pkg Lallmand (LalBrew) New England Pale Ale (hydrated) pitch and primary at 68* , blow off tube




Have I missed anything or anything look wrong? Thanks.

If you've got the hops, I would increase the amount to 1 oz of each variety of in both the whirlpool and dry hop. That will get you closer to a pretty standard hopping rate for this style. A lot of people also seem to have abandoned the active fermentation dry hop, and prefer dry hopping after fermentation is over instead, myself included.

Everything else looks great!

 

[Noob_Brewer]

Is my recipe set? My first go at a NEIPA,

2.5 gallon batch
Anvil Foundry 6.5
3 gal FerMonster with modified with pressure lid kit and float ball drain pipe.

Brewfather Numbers

ABV 6.6%
OG 1.064
SG 1.014
SRM 4.4
IBU 49
Dry hops 1.2 oz per gallon


water BF NEIPA profile using RODI water base adding salts and lactic acid:
Ph 5.37
Ca 99
Mg 10
Na 8
Cl 139
SO4 94
HC03. 16

Grains
4.5 lbs Maris Otter 2 row Pale
1 lb Simpson Pale
8oz Flake
8oz Flaked Wheat

Mash
single stage full volume mash 60min @ 150* with rice hulls and recirculating pump


Hops (in ounces and AA in paren)

.25 Amarillo (7.7). First Wort

.75 Amarillo. flame out

Hop,Stand 20 min @180*
.75 Citra (12.8)
.75 Galaxy (13.3)
.75 Mosiac (11.8)


DryHop. (Open lid, stream in CO2 and drop in pellets and promptly close)

Active fermentation (day 2 or 3)
. 75 Citra
.75 Galaxy
.75 Mosiac

after active fermentation (day 5)

Keg at final gravity, pressure transfer using float ball. Approx day 8 - 11


condition at 45*. Use CO2 cartridge and spundling valve to add CO2 during



yeast

1 Pkg Lallmand (LalBrew) New England Pale Ale (hydrated) pitch and primary at 68* , blow off tube




Have I missed anything or anything look wrong? Thanks.

Agree with @anteater8 comments. But dry hopping strategies vary lots. Ill also add that I typically like my Na higher around >60ish. EDIT: I also personally like my whirlpool temp lower (150-160) but again personal preference. Whats your target IBUs?

 

[jturman35]

Latest batch in the books. I have brewed a variation of this beer four times now and have yet to clone what I’m after. It still a really good beer! I experimented using tap water as well and really happy with the results, I usually build my water from distilled.
I have never had Imperial Juice clear like this which is very interesting. Bitterness is medium and spot on, I get lemon lime and sweet fruit from the dry hops. In the past sabro gave me cedar closet wood but really balanced on this batch.This beer is drinking good after only a week in the keg.

13lbs Pilsner
3lbs Flaked Oats
1lb Flaked Wheat
1oz Amarillo @ 30
1oz Simcoe @ 15

2 oz Amarillo WP
2oz Simcoe WP

1oz Amarillo DH at day 3
1oz Simcoe DH at day 3
3oz Sabro DH for 3 days
3oz Motueka DH for 3 days
Imperial Juice

 

[NSMikeD]

If you've got the hops, I would increase the amount to 1 oz of each variety of in both the whirlpool and dry hop. That will get you closer to a pretty standard hopping rate for this style. A lot of people also seem to have abandoned the active fermentation dry hop, and prefer dry hopping after fermentation is over instead, myself included.

Everything else looks great!

Agree with @anteater8 comments. But dry hopping strategies vary lots. Ill also add that I typically like my Na higher around >60ish. EDIT: I also personally like my whirlpool temp lower (150-160) but again personal preference. Whats your target IBUs?

Thanks. This is what I was looking. One of the recipes I was looking at with these hops had 3 hop steps. I’m going to change this to all the dry hops at once after active and then wait about 8 days to keg.

I have another package of Amarillo. I do have some other left over hops I might be able to use, but don’t want to muddy the waters with to many varieties. I’ll add that package of Amarillo to the whirlpool and dry hop and drop the whirlpool temp.

Target IBUs was 49. The change up brought it to 53.

I’ve now have 2.75 oz of hops in the hopstand and 4.25 in the dry hop. At 6.6 ABV and 2.5 gals where am I in a good spot or still on the light side.

 

[Noob_Brewer]

Latest batch in the books. I have brewed a variation of this beer four times now and have yet to clone what I’m after. It still a really good beer! I experimented using tap water as well and really happy with the results, I usually build my water from distilled.
I have never had Imperial Juice clear like this which is very interesting. Bitterness is medium and spot on, I get lemon lime and sweet fruit from the dry hops. In the past sabro gave me cedar closet wood but really balanced on this batch.This beer is drinking good after only a week in the keg.

1oz Amarillo @ 30
1oz Simcoe @ 15

2 oz Amarillo WP
2oz Simcoe WP

1oz Amarillo DH at day 3
1oz Simcoe DH at day 3
3oz Sabro DH for 3 days
3oz Motueka DH for 3 days
Imperial Juice

Never used Imperial Juice as of yet, but whats the grain bill like? Ive had some with lots of flaked oats drop clear (heavier proteins?). Also - hops high in polyphenol content appear to keep haze i.e. Galaxy. Not sure what the polyphenol content is for sabro and motueka though. Either way - if its drinking well thats all that matters.

 

[jturman35]

Added grain bill above. Imperial Juice is my favorite NEIPA yeast you should definitely try it. Yeah I’m not stuck on the haze it’s just odd to see this beer clearer than previous versions with same grain bill and yeast.

What’s even odd is my neighbor brewed same beer same amount of times as me and his beer looks like orange juice and is quite different. It’s definitely true that if you gave 100 people the same recipe you would have 100 different tasting beers.

 

[Noob_Brewer]

Added grain bill above. Imperial Juice is my favorite NEIPA yeast you should definitely try it. Yeah I’m not stuck on the haze it’s just odd to see this beer clearer than previous versions with same grain bill and yeast.

What’s even odd is my neighbor brewed same beer same amount of times as me and his beer looks like orange juice and is quite different. It’s definitely true that if you gave 100 people the same recipe you would have 100 different tasting beers.

LOL sorry man, I totally overlooked your grain bill. Agreed though that process differences definitely plays a big factor even with the same recipes.

 

[crusader1612]

Thoughts on Dry yeast alternatives for these types of styles?

I've just completed a hop hands with the new Mangrove jacks M66 Hophead.

1. Mangrove Jacks M66 hophead - good yeast, but not juicy, dropped clear, more APA/XPA than NEPA

2. Lallemand Verdant IPA - finished to sweet for me, but i had 5% carapils in the grist.

3. Lallemand New England - interesting, still not sold on the yeast in general, gives off big apple flavours, which im not a fan of.

4. S04 - I hate this yeast, so i didn't do so well with it.

5. Voss - Kveik is a good option, but gives a medium/high bright orange bitter pith note, which some don't like. needs to be carefully paired with hops.

6. Lallemand Belle Saison - Great option, did a 1.051 - 1.005 beer, with all mosaic, and its brilliant, funky, fruity, spicy and hoppy.

Keen to hear thoughts on some of the others below:
- Lallemand Nottingham
- Lallemand London
- any others.

 

[Wilson Lima]

Thoughts on Dry yeast alternatives for these types of styles?

I've just completed a hop hands with the new Mangrove jacks M66 Hophead.

1. Mangrove Jacks M66 hophead - good yeast, but not juicy, dropped clear, more APA/XPA than NEPA

2. Lallemand Verdant IPA - finished to sweet for me, but i had 5% carapils in the grist.

3. Lallemand New England - interesting, still not sold on the yeast in general, gives off big apple flavours, which im not a fan of.

4. S04 - I hate this yeast, so i didn't do so well with it.

5. Voss - Kveik is a good option, but gives a medium/high bright orange bitter pith note, which some don't like. needs to be carefully paired with hops.

6. Lallemand Belle Saison - Great option, did a 1.051 - 1.005 beer, with all mosaic, and its brilliant, funky, fruity, spicy and hoppy.

Keen to hear thoughts on some of the others below:
- Lallemand Nottingham
- Lallemand London
- any others.

Thanks for all this valuable info! Well, I had a good result with Lallemand Windsor and BRY-97 half-half blend. But you may find it too sweet once Windsor has a noticeable low attenuation.

 

[HopsAreGood]

Thoughts on Dry yeast alternatives for these types of styles?

I've just completed a hop hands with the new Mangrove jacks M66 Hophead.

1. Mangrove Jacks M66 hophead - good yeast, but not juicy, dropped clear, more APA/XPA than NEPA

2. Lallemand Verdant IPA - finished to sweet for me, but i had 5% carapils in the grist.

3. Lallemand New England - interesting, still not sold on the yeast in general, gives off big apple flavours, which im not a fan of.

4. S04 - I hate this yeast, so i didn't do so well with it.

5. Voss - Kveik is a good option, but gives a medium/high bright orange bitter pith note, which some don't like. needs to be carefully paired with hops.

6. Lallemand Belle Saison - Great option, did a 1.051 - 1.005 beer, with all mosaic, and its brilliant, funky, fruity, spicy and hoppy.

Keen to hear thoughts on some of the others below:
- Lallemand Nottingham
- Lallemand London
- any others.

Mix one pack of verdant and one pack of New England. Pitch them at the same time. You can obviously adjust the amount of each based on your OG, but for beers north of 1.070 1 of each has worked great. I have two different beers in kegs right now where I did this and I love the results. I also have a third beer with the same combo finishing up fermentation right now. All three of them achieved ~ 80% apparent attenuation and the fermentations have been nearly identical in terms of time and behavior.

Beer 1: 1.070 - 1.014 (80%)
Beer 2: 1.076 - 1.015 (80%)
Beer 3: 1.080 - currently at 1.018 but expecting it to finish around 1.016 for 80%.

I should add that all three beers were mashed at 152 and each had one pound of dextrose added towards the end of the boil.

All three beers have been close to 90-95% finished at 72 hours post pitch. From 24-60 hours post pitch it is absolutely violent. The massive London 3/Verdant krausen appears on day three, and then typically fully falls bye the end of day five which is great. I’ve had plenty of LA3 krausens that never actually dropped, so maybe the Conan is coming into play here.

The finished beers are very soft but not sweet in any way. I did a few beers with only the verdant yeast, and while they were good they definitely had that vanilla/creamy/yogurt kind of thing going on that I didn’t really love. In combining these two yeast, at least for me, that character is completely gone. It just leaves a very nice, soft, round mouthfeel with some fruity esters.

I’d definitely recommend anyone looking for a new yeast or yeast combination to give it a try.

 

[NSMikeD]

My numbers were spot on early except wort pH was a little low at 5.22. My boil was off by a 1/2 gal too much. The OG was dead on though, which mean is was slightly off with efficiency (low pH??? Or nature of the beast with flaked oats and whetstone??).
Without using the spider hop my kettle loss was another quart off. I dipped my sanitized paddle handle and swore it was the estimated 1/2 gal, but I emptied into a measure cup and it was 3 qts not 2. I topped off my fermenter with 3 qts of tap. I presume my FG and ABV will be slightly off but I’m not concerned about a NEIPA that comes in lower ABV. I’ll still be in the ball park. In any case I was 1.064 OG at 2.25 gals prior to the 3 qt top off.

Yeast is pitched, blow off tube attached and she’s in the basement at room temp of 65. My fermenter has a lager so right now I gotta go old school on ferm temp.

 

[LumberZach]

View attachment 724753


My numbers were spot on early except wort pH was a little low at 5.22. My boil was off by a 1/2 gal too much. The OG was dead on though, which mean is was slightly off with efficiency (low pH??? Or nature of the beast with flaked oats and whetstone??).
Without using the spider hop my kettle loss was another quart off. I dipped my sanitized paddle handle and swore it was the estimated 1/2 gal, but I emptied into a measure cup and it was 3 qts not 2. I topped off my fermenter with 3 qts of tap. I presume my FG and ABV will be slightly off but I’m not concerned about a NEIPA that comes in lower ABV. I’ll still be in the ball park. In any case I was 1.064 OG at 2.25 gals prior to the 3 qt top off.

Yeast is pitched, blow off tube attached and she’s in the basement at room temp of 65. My fermenter has a lager so right now I gotta go old school on ferm temp.

What size Fermonster is that? If that's 3 gallons of wort in there and it's over the halfway mark, that would make it a 5G Fermonster. Only problem is that they don't make a 5G version. I really wish they did for the 2.5G to 3G batch brewers.

 

[NSMikeD]

What size Fermonster is that? If that's 3 gallons of wort in there and it's over the halfway mark, that would make it a 5G Fermonster. Only problem is that they don't make a 5G version. I really wish they did for the 2.5G to 3G batch brewers.

That the 3gal. I’ve been brewing 2.5 gal batches in 3 gal fermenters for years (bucket and Brewdom prior). It’s actually 2.25 batches as I like to leave a quart of headspace in my torpedo kegs. The pic is before I did a 2 qt top off due to underestimating my boil off volume. I use a blow off tube as it is likely the Krausen will reach the lid at some point. I’d rather have it blow out the fermentor than out the pressure relief valve of the keg when I purge

 

[hopfenstopfen]

Thoughts on Dry yeast alternatives for these types of styles?

I've just completed a hop hands with the new Mangrove jacks M66 Hophead.

1. Mangrove Jacks M66 hophead - good yeast, but not juicy, dropped clear, more APA/XPA than NEPA

2. Lallemand Verdant IPA - finished to sweet for me, but i had 5% carapils in the grist.

3. Lallemand New England - interesting, still not sold on the yeast in general, gives off big apple flavours, which im not a fan of.

4. S04 - I hate this yeast, so i didn't do so well with it.

5. Voss - Kveik is a good option, but gives a medium/high bright orange bitter pith note, which some don't like. needs to be carefully paired with hops.

6. Lallemand Belle Saison - Great option, did a 1.051 - 1.005 beer, with all mosaic, and its brilliant, funky, fruity, spicy and hoppy.

Keen to hear thoughts on some of the others below:
- Lallemand Nottingham
- Lallemand London
- any others.

Maybe you should try s05 & ferment at the low end of the temp range?
I keep reading it throws peach esters at low temps, but have not seen anyone report on it in this thread. I’d be interested in the outcome.

 

[couchsending]

Thoughts on Dry yeast alternatives for these types of styles?

I've just completed a hop hands with the new Mangrove jacks M66 Hophead.

1. Mangrove Jacks M66 hophead - good yeast, but not juicy, dropped clear, more APA/XPA than NEPA

2. Lallemand Verdant IPA - finished to sweet for me, but i had 5% carapils in the grist.

3. Lallemand New England - interesting, still not sold on the yeast in general, gives off big apple flavours, which im not a fan of.

4. S04 - I hate this yeast, so i didn't do so well with it.

5. Voss - Kveik is a good option, but gives a medium/high bright orange bitter pith note, which some don't like. needs to be carefully paired with hops.

6. Lallemand Belle Saison - Great option, did a 1.051 - 1.005 beer, with all mosaic, and its brilliant, funky, fruity, spicy and hoppy.

Keen to hear thoughts on some of the others below:
- Lallemand Nottingham
- Lallemand London
- any others.

Blends.

Verdant/S04
- fermented at 64 for first 2 days

S04/K-97
- K-97 supposedly possesses some great biotransformative properties

Verdant/US05
- better attenuation, less sweetness

S04/S-33/K-97

Verdant/New England

Verdant/Koln

I hate Nottingham.

Verdant by itself is great but to avoid the sweetness I think it needs a sulfate heavy water profile. Helps to cut through the sweetness/body that yeast leaves.

S04 needs to be kept cold. 64 for a couple days then 66 then 68 to finish.

 

[jturman35]

Blends.

Verdant/S04
- fermented at 64 for first 2 days

S04/K-97
- K-97 supposedly possesses some great biotransformative properties

Verdant/US05
- better attenuation, less sweetness

S04/S-33/K-97

Verdant/New England

Verdant/Koln

I hate Nottingham.

Verdant by itself is great but to avoid the sweetness I think it needs a sulfate heavy water profile. Helps to cut through the sweetness/body that yeast leaves.

S04 needs to be kept cold. 64 for a couple days then 66 then 68 to finish.

You hate Nottingham in general or just for Neipa's? I typically use Imperial Juice as my go too NEIPA yeast, but id like to try some dry yeast for a change. I have never used Verdant or New England, I will have to give these a try. Thank you guys for your input.

On a side note, my next batch although not a Neipa I'm doing a Lawson's Double Sunshine clone with two packs of S-05, I brewed this several years ago and it was very good. I like the crispness S-05 brings to the table for an IPA.

 

[Frieds]

Maybe you should try s05 & ferment at the low end of the temp range?
I keep reading it throws peach esters at low temps, but have not seen anyone report on it in this thread. I’d be interested in the outcome.

This is my latest beer, a 5% Hazy Pale fermented with US05. I fermented it at 63 and I personally can’t detect any peach notes. I was reasonably generous with the dry hop though so that may have played a part in masking any type of yeast character.

 

[eugles]

I’ve been reading a bunch of older posts on water chemistry and am starting to re-evaluate what I’ve been doing. I’m using RO water that just for fun I had tested with Ward labs, and well it’s pretty devoid of anything There seems to be a trend to lower the calcium levels from what I can tell and so I’m wondering what are people’s “standard” profiles these days. I’ve found that in my last few batches I’ve pretty much had to stop using gypsum in order to get low calcium while still getting some amount of sulfates.

 

[bailey mountain brewer]

I am curious as well on this topic but also wondering why, as calcium plays such an important role in the mash. I know people are not eliminating it, but someone else mentioned somewhere I think I read that places like treehouse (must) have a high alkalinity in the water so maybe people on the homebrew level are lowering the calcium to emulate the effect that alkalinity has on the mash? Personally I add acid to my water to lower my alkalinity so maybe I should not be doing this for my NEIPA or maybe adding less as to not bring alkalinity down as far. I start with 98ppm alkalinity and get down to about 30ppm with my acid addition.