New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

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mine typically turn out with a very similar color to the one on the left. and i havent been able to figure out why that is. here is my recent grain bill and a pic of it (just kegged last night) i would like to get the color to look more like @HopsAreGood posted above. this is not a great photo but you get the idea, and its clearly not carbonated yet. any suggestions?

70.6% 2row
9.4% malted oats
4.7% white wheat
4.7% honey malt
3.5% carapils

7.1% turbinado in the boil
imagejpeg_0.jpg
 
mine typically turn out with a very similar color to the one on the left. and i havent been able to figure out why that is. here is my recent grain bill and a pic of it (just kegged last night) i would like to get the color to look more like @HopsAreGood posted above. this is not a great photo but you get the idea, and its clearly not carbonated yet. any suggestions?

70.6% 2row
9.4% malted oats
4.7% white wheat
4.7% honey malt
3.5% carapils

7.1% turbinado in the boil
View attachment 721644
Honey malt at ~5% will definitely contribute towards a more orangey color than the super pale yellow I shoot for. I’m pretty sure the lovibond is around 25?

Also, are you doing everything possible to eliminate oxygen ingress? Truly closed transfers, purging all transfer lines, liquid and or Co2 purging your serving keg? Etc...

I never open my fermenter at any point anymore, transfer into a fermentation purged keg via a spigot with positive co2 pressure into the top of the fermenter, and thoroughly purge the transfer line before starting. Same thing from dry hop keg to liquid purged serving keg, purging the transfer line/jumper.

I also find that sometimes when the beer is a bit murkier/thicker looking it will appear to be much more yellow/pale. If only slightly hazy the color doesn’t tend to pop as much...even though they may actually be the same exact color.

Lighting is hard in terms of taking pictures of beer. In my opinion natural sunlight on a bright sunny day is always best.
 
yeah this beer does look a little better with the sun hitting... you are correct on the honey malt so i may dial that back. as for oxygen i ferment in a spike cf15, and run co2 during dry hop additions, closed transfer into kegs filled with starsan and tranferred out with co2. purge again once full. this one does seem a little less hazy then my last one. this one was done with 1318 and the last one i used imperial a24 dry hop. my water profile is actually very close to yours.. within a point or 2 on each. what about the turbinado? could this throw a darker color as well? i have been debating eliminating that or switching it to dextrose.
 
yeah this beer does look a little better with the sun hitting... you are correct on the honey malt so i may dial that back. as for oxygen i ferment in a spike cf15, and run co2 during dry hop additions, closed transfer into kegs filled with starsan and tranferred out with co2. purge again once full. this one does seem a little less hazy then my last one. this one was done with 1318 and the last one i used imperial a24 dry hop. my water profile is actually very close to yours.. within a point or 2 on each. what about the turbinado? could this throw a darker color as well? i have been debating eliminating that or switching it to dextrose.
All sounds good to me. I’ve never used turbinado but I suppose it could be having some effect if leaves some darker sugars behind like someone posted a few posts back. Dextrose, which I use all the time, will obviously have no effect on color whatsoever.

E0D3FBD2-99DB-4981-90FB-9DAED0FD6735.png


So yeah, maybe lessen or remove the honey malt entirely and switch to dextrose instead of the turbinado and see where that gets you.
 
i am putting that in my notes as we speak. i dry hopped this one with citra and vic secret and my god is the flavor fantastic. i think a week or 2 in the keg and it will be spot on flavor wise. i brew these about once a month so ill see what i get in april with the new changes. thanks for your input.
 
i am putting that in my notes as we speak. i dry hopped this one with citra and vic secret and my god is the flavor fantastic. i think a week or 2 in the keg and it will be spot on flavor wise. i brew these about once a month so ill see what i get in april with the new changes. thanks for your input.
well that's great news. mine is also destined for a Vic Secret and Citra dry hop!
 
I just threw those adjustments into beersmith and it dropped my projected srm down to 4.4 and it was at 6.0 ... that is with 2% honey still and dextrose in place of turbinado. if i take the honey out all together it showed 3.6 so i might see how we look at 2% before cutting it out all together. I think for my next round i want to give azacca a go and may pair it with simcoe and mosaic on the hot side and do a mosaic/azacca dry hop. I have an abundance of azacca right now and really want to play around with it. we'll see what happens. any suggestions on the dry hop side of things to use other then mosaic? i only like doing 2 different hops for the dryhop.
 
I just threw those adjustments into beersmith and it dropped my projected srm down to 4.4 and it was at 6.0 ... that is with 2% honey still and dextrose in place of turbinado. if i take the honey out all together it showed 3.6 so i might see how we look at 2% before cutting it out all together. I think for my next round i want to give azacca a go and may pair it with simcoe and mosaic on the hot side and do a mosaic/azacca dry hop. I have an abundance of azacca right now and really want to play around with it. we'll see what happens. any suggestions on the dry hop side of things to use other then mosaic? i only like doing 2 different hops for the dryhop.
For your reference: the beer in post 14,003 is 5 pct honey malt 5-8 srm.
 
View attachment 713491Sample pour from my latest attempt and I’m really liking this one. For this one I added zero hot side hops making it a 100% dry hopped beer.

70% 2-row
20% white wheat
10% malted oats
7.5% abv

4 oz Apollo (added at the same time as pitching the yeast) which was a 1L starter of the new omega sundew.

Soft crashed to 60 for 12 hours then dry hopped directly in the fermenter with:

4 oz Vic Secret
4 oz Nelson
2 oz Citra Cryo

Held the temp at 60 for 48 hours then transferred into a purged keg with a nylon bag suspended containing:

4 oz Mosaic Lupomax

The keg has been in the chest freezer at 48 degrees for 48 hours and I’m going to leave it there for the duration.

So far it’s extremely dank and fruity. There’s zero bitterness but it’s not cloying and I have to say it’s probably one of the most aromatic and flavorful beers I’ve ever made.
Hey there. I'm currently fermenting a Blonde with Sundew and was curious if you got any yeast character out of it? It's currently on day 2 at 70 degrees and my basement smells like rotten eggs! This yeast produces one of the biggest Krausens I've ever had. Thanks
 
View attachment 721522I I haven’t shared too much lately but I’m pretty proud of this one. I’d definitely say it’s one of the best beers I’ve ever made, or at least one of my favorites.

Mash PH 5.25
Ca: 81
Mg: 13
Na: 57
Cl: 175
So4: 75
Mash temp: 152

70% 2-row
13.3% malted oats
13.3% white wheat
3.3% c-10

10 min: 1 oz Idaho 7, .75 oz mosaic Lupomax

5 min: 1 oz Idaho 7, .75 oz mosaic Lupomax

Flame out: 1 oz Idaho 7, .75 oz mosaic Lupomax (let sit for 5 minutes before starting the chiller)

No whirlpool at all.

8 grams Verdant IPA yeast
8 grams S-04

1.070 - 1.012 7.6% ABV

Pitched and held at 65 for the first 72 hours. All signs of active fermentation were done at this point. Raised to 67 for one day, then 69 for another, and then 71 for one more day. I then soft crashed to 60 for 48 hours.

I then transferred into the fermentation purged dry hop keg with 6 oz of Nectaron and 4 oz of Nelson. Stuck the dry hop keg immediately into my chest freezer which is held at 46 degrees. About 12 hours later I took the dry hop keg out and gently rolled it back and forth and turned it upside down a few times. I did this for about 5 minutes and then put it right back into the chest freezer for another 36 hours.

I then jumped the beer from the dry hop keg into a liquid purged serving keg, and carbonated it to 2.4 volumes. After 4 days in the serving keg it is absolutely glorious, and I’m sure it’s only going to get better as it continues to condition and mature.

The biggest thing I’m noticing is the insane level of “hop saturation.” Idaho 7 and Mosaic are apparently the two kings of survivable hop compounds that make it through fermentation and into the final beer, and I think this definitely showcases that. And then the combination of Nectaron and Nelson is just incredible. I’m getting tons of that beautiful, unique Nectaron character and in the background is that oh so familiar Nelsony thing going on.

As I said, very proud of this one.
Looks great. Do you feel the smaller Dh load than your usual amount caused for a brighter hop character?
 
Hey there. I'm currently fermenting a Blonde with Sundew and was curious if you got any yeast character out of it? It's currently on day 2 at 70 degrees and my basement smells like rotten eggs! This yeast produces one of the biggest Krausens I've ever had. Thanks
I just remember that it fermented incredibly fast and aggressively. The krausen was huge and it did smell good while it was fermenting but I don’t remember any distinct yeast character in the final beer. It’s probably because the hops overtook it but I wasn’t inspired enough to ever use it again.
 
Looks great. Do you feel the smaller Dh load than your usual amount caused for a brighter hop character?
It’s hard to say but 10 ounces it’s pretty standard for the amount I use in a dry hop. I’ve made a few beers recently that used only 8 ounces in the dry hop and they were fantastic. I know I have championed bigger DryHop loads up to 16 ounces, but more times than not I’m in the 8 to 12 range. I honestly think using the mosaic and Idaho 7 hot side really contributed to the overall hop saturation. All of it was used at 10, five, and flame out and then immediately chilled down with no whirlpool steeping/hop standing. There’s a really nice bitterness to it that I like and I think helps to really round out the whole beer. I’m also finding that the cooler and shorter dry hop technique is really working out nicely.
 
I just remember that it fermented incredibly fast and aggressively. The krausen was huge and it did smell good while it was fermenting but I don’t remember any distinct yeast character in the final beer. It’s probably because the hops overtook it but I wasn’t inspired enough to ever use it again.
Great thanks for the info. I'll post if I get anything from it in a simple blonde with hints of Huell melon, Strata and HBC 630.
 
It’s hard to say but 10 ounces it’s pretty standard for the amount I use in a dry hop. I’ve made a few beers recently that used only 8 ounces in the dry hop and they were fantastic. I know I have championed bigger DryHop loads up to 16 ounces, but more times than not I’m in the 8 to 12 range. I honestly think using the mosaic and Idaho 7 hot side really contributed to the overall hop saturation. All of it was used at 10, five, and flame out and then immediately chilled down with no whirlpool steeping/hop standing. There’s a really nice bitterness to it that I like and I think helps to really round out the whole beer. I’m also finding that the cooler and shorter dry hop technique is really working out nicely.
Gotcha. I was under the assumption you were still in the 16oz range. My bad
 
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FYI, my photo previously was 4oz honey malt, 2% of grain bill. No sugar additions. That was my OG sample, FG sample looked similar, but i didnt snap a photo

42% pilsner (5.5lb)
30% White wheat (4lbs)
15% Flaked Wheat (2 lbs)
11% 2 row (1.5lb) - using up some leftovers
2% Honey Malt (4oz)
45% wheat? Curious on the mouthfeel you get with this. I love wheat and oats in my NEIPAs typically.
 
45% wheat? Curious on the mouthfeel you get with this. I love wheat and oats in my NEIPAs typically.

This is pretty much the second half of an experiment. I had planned to do them back to back but life got in the way. So last year I did a 50% oats beer, and this is the companion “50%” wheat. There’s a brewery outside Hartford Connecticut called New Park that makes this stellar beer called Double Cloud and it’s a mix of malted, flaked wheat and flaked oats. At least that’s all they give us. In any case I had never used flaked wheat before but didn’t feel like just switching out flaked oats for wheat, particularly in a beer that had 30% oat malt was enough of a comparison. So here we are.

I just started soft crashing yesterday and I overshot my fg by a few points. Expected 1.016, actual 1.010/1.012. This is all before dry hop so we’ll see if creep gets me a bit lower. I typically dry hop at 64 (warming back up after the soft crash) but I think I’ll just keep it at 60 this time. In any case, with the beer on the drier side I’m expecting the wheat mouthfeel to be relatively prominent, which isn’t a bad thing, for science.

It’s almost an American wheat at this point if not for the yeast I used, A24
 
That's a small dry hop, what's the batch size?

You won't get better results from Lalbrew New England, I'd steer clear of it, Verdant is a much better yeast. Underpitch the Verdant (say 1/2 or 1/3 the normal rate) and get it to around 23C (73-74F) during primary to get more from it. You won't get off flavours at that temp, it likes the heat.

It was my first NEIPA and I read a lot about hop burn, so I was on the side of caution. it was a 5G batch. The hop flavour is already quite strong and I quite like it but I just want to amplify it a little bit into the peach side of things
 
This is a report on RVA Yeast labs Manchester ale yeast.

This is mostly for folks in or near Virginia, sorry if that excludes you, but this also may be of interest to everyone that is interested in the many variants of the apparently incorrectly-labeled Boddington yeast strains all major labs put out. Note that I don't brew nearly as much of many of you, but my prior experience with this group of related yeast strains is exclusively Wyeast 1318 LA3.

Beer stats:
OG: 1.057
FG: 1.012
ABV: 5.9%
SRM: 4.4

87% Golden Promise (Simpsons)
8.7& Dextrose
4.3% Flaked Barley

0.5 oz Magnum @ 60'
2.0 oz Mosaic T90 pellets @ 5'
2.0 oz Mosaic T90 pellets @ WP/175F
4.0 oz Mosaic Lupomax @ day 14, post-fermentation

RVA 132 Manchester Ale. Over-built starter, targeted 0.7 million cells/ml/P according to the Brewer's friend calculator. Pitched at 68F, raised to 70F on day 6.

I use a Fermzilla. On day 11 of fermentation I soft crashed to 60 for 4 days, then transferred to fermentation CO2 purged keg w/ 4oz of Lupomax hops that were placed in the keg on brew day. I left the keg in the ferm chamber at 60F for (looks at notes) 3 days.

Holy crap, this has been in the kegerator since 2/10/21 (forced carb @ ~ 10psi). I don't think the flavor or aroma has budged yet, nor has the haze appearance. The hops are inside a little filter inside the keg. BTW, I like my NEIPAs on the soft, but somewhat dry end of things and I prefer under 7% abv.

This is the first time I have used Lupomax hops. I purposely shot low on the dry hopping rate hoping I could pick out the yeast ester contributions. Turns out that Scott Janish's post on RVA Manchester vs. Wyeast 1318 is dead on in my opinion. Consistent with my experience with half a dozen beers from The Veil, I get a distinct vanilla, marmalade, or not quite ripe pineapple (possibly lemon/lime or limeade) impressions. Even though I struggle to name the ester profile, it is very distinct and very different from 1318. Though it would seem to give similar soft, juicy qualities as does 1318. Honestly, I don't love it for a single hopped Mosaic beer or at least one at this hopping rate.

K, think I wrote too much. I'm happy to provide more to anyone that is interested.


IMG_1020.JPG
IMG_1004.JPG
 
This is a report on RVA Yeast labs Manchester ale yeast.

This is mostly for folks in or near Virginia, sorry if that excludes you, but this also may be of interest to everyone that is interested in the many variants of the apparently incorrectly-labeled Boddington yeast strains all major labs put out. Note that I don't brew nearly as much of many of you, but my prior experience with this group of related yeast strains is exclusively Wyeast 1318 LA3.

Beer stats:
OG: 1.057
FG: 1.012
ABV: 5.9%
SRM: 4.4

87% Golden Promise (Simpsons)
8.7& Dextrose
4.3% Flaked Barley

0.5 oz Magnum @ 60'
2.0 oz Mosaic T90 pellets @ 5'
2.0 oz Mosaic T90 pellets @ WP/175F
4.0 oz Mosaic Lupomax @ day 14, post-fermentation

RVA 132 Manchester Ale. Over-built starter, targeted 0.7 million cells/ml/P according to the Brewer's friend calculator. Pitched at 68F, raised to 70F on day 6.

I use a Fermzilla. On day 11 of fermentation I soft crashed to 60 for 4 days, then transferred to fermentation CO2 purged keg w/ 4oz of Lupomax hops that were placed in the keg on brew day. I left the keg in the ferm chamber at 60F for (looks at notes) 3 days.

Holy crap, this has been in the kegerator since 2/10/21 (forced carb @ ~ 10psi). I don't think the flavor or aroma has budged yet, nor has the haze appearance. The hops are inside a little filter inside the keg. BTW, I like my NEIPAs on the soft, but somewhat dry end of things and I prefer under 7% abv.

This is the first time I have used Lupomax hops. I purposely shot low on the dry hopping rate hoping I could pick out the yeast ester contributions. Turns out that Scott Janish's post on RVA Manchester vs. Wyeast 1318 is dead on in my opinion. Consistent with my experience with half a dozen beers from The Veil, I get a distinct vanilla, marmalade, or not quite ripe pineapple (possibly lemon/lime or limeade) impressions. Even though I struggle to name the ester profile, it is very distinct and very different from 1318. Though it would seem to give similar soft, juicy qualities as does 1318. Honestly, I don't love it for a single hopped Mosaic beer or at least one at this hopping rate.

K, think I wrote too much. I'm happy to provide more to anyone that is interested.


View attachment 721849View attachment 721850

Curious about your process with the Fermzilla. Why not use the collection jar for dropping yeast and dry hopping?
 
Curious about your process with the Fermzilla. Why not use the collection jar for dropping yeast and dry hopping?

I do close the valve to the collection jar once fermentation is mostly over in order to separate the beer from trub &/or dropped out yeast. I’ve been too paranoid about oxygen exposure to dry hop from the collection jar so far. I do have the ball lock posts on the jar, just don’t trust it enough to remove all O2. Plus I like soft crashing in the fermzilla & then moving the beer off yeast to the purged keg for dry hopping. I’ve on,y used this method on 3-4 beers, but they’ve been the best hoppy beers I’ve made.

If you try dry hopping in the jar, I’d be very interested in hearing about your experience.
 
I do close the valve to the collection jar once fermentation is mostly over in order to separate the beer from trub &/or dropped out yeast. I’ve been too paranoid about oxygen exposure to dry hop from the collection jar so far. I do have the ball lock posts on the jar, just don’t trust it enough to remove all O2. Plus I like soft crashing in the fermzilla & then moving the beer off yeast to the purged keg for dry hopping. I’ve on,y used this method on 3-4 beers, but they’ve been the best hoppy beers I’ve made.

If you try dry hopping in the jar, I’d be very interested in hearing about your experience.

Gotcha! I actually don't have a Fermzilla but if I did I would absolutely make use of the collection jar for adding yeast, dumping trub/hops/yeast, fining, and dry hopping. I currently use fermentation CO2 to purge my serving keg so, for me, it's not too much of a stretch to apply the same idea to the collection jar... The only difference is the CO2 isn't free per se (you could spund and collect CO2 in a serving keg to purge your collection jar).

In the end, if you're making the best hoppy beers, AWESOME!! Keep doing it!
 
There’s a lot of great hop combos. That is certainly one of them. What’s cool about Citra/strata/idaho 7 is you can mix up the ratio of each and even though they taste different, they are all good. It’s hard to say which I liked more but Strara/I7 hotside 1:1 and dryhop strata/I7/Citra 2:1:2 is a really good one. Might look something like this;

Hotside
Bitter from about .5-.65BU/GU with magnum or Columbus.
Late/whirlpool
2oz strata
2oz Idaho 7

Dryhop;
3 oz strata
1.5 oz Idaho 7
3 oz Citra

Perfect timing! I just got some I7 from the Yakima Valley, was thinking of doing a Citra/I7/Nelson combo for this weekend's brew.

Anyone ever use this combo? Like the idea of I7 for the survivables and I love nelson, so good.

I was thinking of doing the following for a 7.5 abv
Late/whirlpool
2oz citra
2oz Idaho 7

Dryhop;
1 oz Idaho 7
3 oz Citra
4 oz Nelson (might be too much nelson)
 
I am looking for some feedback on the base recipe from those that have more reps in on this style than me. I also could use your thoughts on hop ratios given what I have on hand which is 2 oz. each of YVH regular and Lupomax mosaic, citra and azacca.

Batch Size: 2.5 G in the fermenter
OG: 1.069
FG: 1.016
Target ABV: 6.9%
IBU's: Brewer's Friend is calculating 64, 30 is from the 60 min. addition.

36% 2 Row
36% Golden Promise
10% White Wheat
10% Oat Malt
10% Flaked Oats
3% Carafoam

.25 oz. Warrior (16% AA) @ 60 min.

1oz. Citra (13.2% AA) WP @170 (30 min)
1 oz. Mosaic (11.2% AA) WP @170 (30 min)
1 oz. Azacca (12% AA)WP @170 (30 min)

Dry Hop - 3 days at tail end of fermentation
1oz. Citra Lupomax ((18% AA)
1 oz. Mosaic Lupomax (18% AA)
1 oz. Azacca Lupomax (16.5% AA)

Yeast A24 Dry Hop

Given that I have Lupomax on hand and this is a small batch, I am wondering if I can/should use all Lupomax and save the regular pellets for another time. Or move distribution around?
 
Am I the only one getting "dry mouth/black tea" aftertaste from even 1 oz of Idaho 7 in the whirlpool?
I don't find it suitable together with the fruit taste.
 
Am I the only one getting "dry mouth/black tea" aftertaste from even 1 oz of Idaho 7 in the whirlpool?
I don't find it suitable together with the fruit taste.
I did in my 2019 batch but the 2020 has been very orange forward for me
 
Am I the only one getting "dry mouth/black tea" aftertaste from even 1 oz of Idaho 7 in the whirlpool?
I don't find it suitable together with the fruit taste.
It’s like anything else...totally lot/farm/year dependent. I’ve definitively had the black tea flavor come through before, but I usually get a very orangey flavor/aroma with some pleasant green herbal kind of notes.
 
I finally made a good sessionable NEIPA. I have always played with mashing hot, but had a lot of troubles with hop creep and diacetyl when doing that. So, I decided to mash hot (165F) with a mashout (100% Pils malt for this one as I have been digging the Pils malt flavor lately), ferment that out and then drop the temp down to crash yeast. I decided to go to 35F on this one for fun. Then, I racked it off of the yeast after 7 days into a purged keg with a floating dip tube. I opened the top and added in 6 oz of hops, then closed it up and thoroughly purged it. I let it rest at 35F for 3 days (though I had planned on 2 days but stuff came up), inverting the keg a few times per day. Then, I pushed it over to a purged serving keg. This method results in stable beers that don't have hop creep or diacetyl and maintain a low ABV. I did a 1.060 mash with Verdant IPA and got 4.0% ABV. It tastes like a 6% beer to me. Not thin at all.

I did 35F, because I wanted to compare the Verdant and US-05 split batch I was doing at similar dry hop temps. I have dry hopped Juice at 50F with no hop creep or diacetyl, so I would go back to 50F if I think. I was worried the US-05 batch would kick off fermentation again if I dry hopped it at 50F.
 
I just added my second round of dry hops (Day 12) and i am using Imperial Juice which is my favorite yeast for NEIPA. I did a soft crash down to 48 for two days. After adding the hops the sight glass which was previously full of trub and yeast gunk was now gone and the yeast was going again just like day 2 of fermentation. We shall see.
 
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I just added my second round of dry hops (Day 12) and i am using Imperial Juice which is my favorite yeast for NEIPA. I did a soft crash down to 48 for two days. After adding the hops the sight glass which was previously full of trub and yeast gunk was now gone and the yeast was going again just like day 2 of fermentation. We shall see.
That could be just co2 being released by adding the hops
 
https://homebrewingdiy.beer/index.p...-ipa-with-brandon-capps-of-new-image-brewing/
I enjoyed this podcast on making a Hazy - I've never had a New Image beer but sounds like they're well respected. Capps is a former obsessed homebrewer, been pro in CO for 6 or 7 years it sounded like. The bulk of the episode is him just dumping information on how he would make a hazy if he was a homebrewer. Lots of good details, many of which have been covered on this thread, I wonder if he use to be on here?

Some key points:

Dose Kettle additions 0.75-1oz/gallon
Terpene focused extracts on the hot side
Crash and transfer off yeast before dry hopping
Use a dry hop keg
DH for 12-24 hours on the colder side (50sF)
Acidify the boil to 4.9
Use golden promise
Use two hops at a time, maybe 3.
The super small quantity of O2 it takes to ruin a batch
Use really hard water - Cl levels in the 200-300ppm range, So4 levels can be just as high.
 
https://homebrewingdiy.beer/index.p...-ipa-with-brandon-capps-of-new-image-brewing/
I enjoyed this podcast on making a Hazy - I've never had a New Image beer but sounds like they're well respected. Capps is a former obsessed homebrewer, been pro in CO for 6 or 7 years it sounded like. The bulk of the episode is him just dumping information on how he would make a hazy if he was a homebrewer. Lots of good details, many of which have been covered on this thread, I wonder if he use to be on here?

Some key points:

Dose Kettle additions 0.75-1oz/gallon
Terpene focused extracts on the hot side
Crash and transfer off yeast before dry hopping
Use a dry hop keg
DH for 12-24 hours on the colder side (50sF)
Acidify the boil to 4.9
Use golden promise
Use two hops at a time, maybe 3.
The super small quantity of O2 it takes to ruin a batch
Use really hard water - Cl levels in the 200-300ppm range, So4 levels can be just as high.
Just listened to it… And it was very enjoyable. As you said he simply confirms most of the practices that are being discussed within this thread. Great information and it’s always cool to hear a professional brewer who came from such a legit homebrew background.
 
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Have a bit of a dilemma with the beer I'm brewing at the moment. It's a Citra and Nelson DIPA. I'm purposely going low on the hops rates as an experiment as per my previous posts a while back I said about my rates being around 16oz/5g batch and beers were a harsh, grassy mess. So planning this beer I set out to use 9oz for the batch, splitting the dry hop in two going 1/3 in fermenter and 2/3 in dry hop keg. So added the first hops yesterday morning, 35g/1.23oz Nelson and 45g/1.59oz T90 Citra and just sampled there, it's about 36 hours after adding the hops and the flavor is bursting with juicy hops and the aroma is pretty strong too. I'd happily drink this as is even though in theory it's seriously under hopped. Side by side with my last beer which was 18oz/5g and this wins hands down already and it's not carbed or conditioned

I had planned for the next charge in the keg to add 70g/2.47oz of Nelson and 110g/3.88oz of Citra Lupomax, not sure now what to do. Really don't want to ruin this by going over board with the hops but also don't want it falling short and having to mess around with adding to the serving keg. Decisions, decisions.
 
fwiw, my total dryhop on my last batch was 1oz per gallon... it was a citra/vic secret combo and it is fantastic at that dry hop rate IMO. i have not used lupomax so i cant give you any info as far as that goes. sounds like you on the right track though, glad to hear.
 
https://homebrewingdiy.beer/index.p...-ipa-with-brandon-capps-of-new-image-brewing/
I enjoyed this podcast on making a Hazy - I've never had a New Image beer but sounds like they're well respected. Capps is a former obsessed homebrewer, been pro in CO for 6 or 7 years it sounded like. The bulk of the episode is him just dumping information on how he would make a hazy if he was a homebrewer. Lots of good details, many of which have been covered on this thread, I wonder if he use to be on here?

Some key points:

Dose Kettle additions 0.75-1oz/gallon
Terpene focused extracts on the hot side
Crash and transfer off yeast before dry hopping
Use a dry hop keg
DH for 12-24 hours on the colder side (50sF)
Acidify the boil to 4.9
Use golden promise
Use two hops at a time, maybe 3.
The super small quantity of O2 it takes to ruin a batch
Use really hard water - Cl levels in the 200-300ppm range, So4 levels can be just as high.

Hey this is my Podcast and thanks for sharing! New Image is probably one of the better hazy IPA breweries in CO. This post is great summary of what we discussed. My question is where would you get a Terpene hop extract as a home brewer? Brandon talked about doing hop shots. Any other resources?
 
Have a bit of a dilemma with the beer I'm brewing at the moment. It's a Citra and Nelson DIPA. I'm purposely going low on the hops rates as an experiment as per my previous posts a while back I said about my rates being around 16oz/5g batch and beers were a harsh, grassy mess. So planning this beer I set out to use 9oz for the batch, splitting the dry hop in two going 1/3 in fermenter and 2/3 in dry hop keg. So added the first hops yesterday morning, 35g/1.23oz Nelson and 45g/1.59oz T90 Citra and just sampled there, it's about 36 hours after adding the hops and the flavor is bursting with juicy hops and the aroma is pretty strong too. I'd happily drink this as is even though in theory it's seriously under hopped. Side by side with my last beer which was 18oz/5g and this wins hands down already and it's not carbed or conditioned

I had planned for the next charge in the keg to add 70g/2.47oz of Nelson and 110g/3.88oz of Citra Lupomax, not sure now what to do. Really don't want to ruin this by going over board with the hops but also don't want it falling short and having to mess around with adding to the serving keg. Decisions, decisions.
You have a good practice by tasting your brew along the way. Follow your plan. Go for the full 9 oz/5g. Write notes. Learn. Now you know that you like the "1/3 in fermenter". You can always reproduce that in your next batch.
 
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