New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

[jakturner]

For you guys using fermonsters, are you bagging your dryhops? I usually ferment in kegs with a floating dip tube but I find myself needing to produce a full 5 gallons for some events. I was thinking about buying one with a spigot and pushing it out with co2. Anyone doing this?

 

[stickyfinger]

There's a lot of New England-influenced beers being brewing in Olde England at traditional British strengths these days - and below. In fact there's a bit of a mini-craze for hoppy "lunchtime" table beers at 2.8-3.2% from the likes of Cloudwater - the new milds? Here's a prize-winning homebrew that was intended for 1.031 but ended up at 1.036 : https://www.brewuk.co.uk/forums/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=51763

wow, strange recipe. thx for sharing

 

[marchuk96]

For you guys using fermonsters, are you bagging your dryhops? I usually ferment in kegs with a floating dip tube but I find myself needing to produce a full 5 gallons for some events. I was thinking about buying one with a spigot and pushing it out with co2. Anyone doing this?

DEF. NO BAG!!! And that is exactly what I have been doing..Cold crash for 24 hrs....2-3 psi...watch the bung at first and then transfer to keg...slowly and increase psi a bit to prevent collapse of fermonster during the transfer...works like a charm!!

 

[ThirstyPawsHB]

any idea on recipe? whatz it called?

Moxie Monkey. IDK the recipe/procedure. I've got to know the owner/head brewer. Maybe overtime I'll learn.

 

[jakturner]

DEF. NO BAG!!! And that is exactly what I have been doing..Cold crash for 24 hrs....2-3 psi...watch the bung at first and then transfer to keg...slowly and increase psi a bit to prevent collapse of fermonster during the transfer...works like a charm!!

Cold crash will be hard for me, I usually do it in the keggerator since I ferment in keg. I never used bags before but I feel like it will be a clogged mess without one. I think I’ll try a closed loop with a water purged keg like the picture below. Then again the bag might get sucked into the spigot and clogg it anyway. Idk maybe I’ll just build one with a floating dip tube

 

[leesmith]

Cold crash will be hard for me, I usually do it in the keggerator since I ferment in keg. I never used bags before but I feel like it will be a clogged mess without one. I think I’ll try a closed loop with a water purged keg like the picture below. Then again the bag might get sucked into the spigot and clogg it anyway. Idk maybe I’ll just build one with a floating dip tubeView attachment 617694

A bag works fine.
Don’t listen to anyone who says not to.
Just make sure it’s big enough to let the hops swim around...and give the keg a good shake a couple times a day.

Get a keg lid with a tab underneath and use butchers twine...boil it first of course. This ensures the bag is secure.
Dental floss through the lid can fail.
And being suspended it can’t clog the dip tube when you transfer.

 

[beervoid]

There's a lot of New England-influenced beers being brewing in Olde England at traditional British strengths these days - and below. In fact there's a bit of a mini-craze for hoppy "lunchtime" table beers at 2.8-3.2% from the likes of Cloudwater - the new milds? Here's a prize-winning homebrew that was intended for 1.031 but ended up at 1.036 : https://www.brewuk.co.uk/forums/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=51763

Too bad there was no follow up after the commercial batch was brewed. Makes me wonder if it was not a success? Perhaps ended up with a lower fg.

 

[Northern_Brewer]

I don't think it's anything more than BrewUK broke their forums soon afterwards so the thread of conversation was rather lost. But it made it onto Untappd (at 2.5%), so it must be real.

 

[leesmith]

For you guys using fermonsters, are you bagging your dryhops? I usually ferment in kegs with a floating dip tube but I find myself needing to produce a full 5 gallons for some events. I was thinking about buying one with a spigot and pushing it out with co2. Anyone doing this?

Sorry didn’t see this fermonster statement before making my last post.

You could rig up some sort of bag hanger for that also...and use a pretty big bag for them to swim around.

There is really nothing like a clog during transfer to really p*** yourself off...it makes for a great day.

 

[leesmith]

Has anyone tried taking an NEIPA recipe down to the 4-5% ABV range with good results (thinking of it for a party where people will be wanting to drink several pints)? I am interested in the malt bill you used and how much hopping before it goes astringent.

This is just about at 5%, simple, tasty, and a good start:

Emily Once Again...

2.5 Gallons
O.G. 1.046
F.G. 1.008

MASH:
80% (4 lbs. 11.1 oz.) 2-Row
15% (14.1 oz.) White Wheat
5% (4.7 oz.) C20

Mash at 152 F for 60 min

BOIL:
.55 oz. Warrior @60 min for 60 IBUs
.6 g whirlfloc at 5 min.
2.00 oz. Galaxy at flameout

FERMENTATION:
Wyeast 1318

DRY HOPS:
3 oz. Galaxy

WATER:
3 g. Gypsum
1.5 g. Calcium Chloride
1 g. Epsom salt
2 g. Table salt

Lactic acid for a 5.3-5.4ph and then some more preboil for a ph of 5.2.

Ferment and confirm ok with diacetyl test.

Cold crash to 55 or so for two days with gas providing a small amount of head pressure.

Then get it off the yeast and dry hop in the low 60’s for 2-3 days on head pressure.

Then package to carbonate and then cold condition.

One thing you may want to do is mash higher to get it to finish higher...I know people like them sweeter than I do.

 

[marchuk96]

Cold crash will be hard for me, I usually do it in the keggerator since I ferment in keg. I never used bags before but I feel like it will be a clogged mess without one. I think I’ll try a closed loop with a water purged keg like the picture below. Then again the bag might get sucked into the spigot and clogg it anyway. Idk maybe I’ll just build one with a floating dip tubeView attachment 617694

Does your fermentor not fit in your kegerator??? If you have no way to cold crash I would say you have no choice but to bag em...I used to use bags but I noticed a pretty significant improvement in aroma and flavor once I went loose...I have never had mine clog ever during transfer...the crash really compacts everything to below the spigot and leaving it on a tilt helps prevent a mess also...

 

[leesmith]

Does your fermentor not fit in your kegerator??? If you have no way to cold crash I would say you have no choice but to bag em...I used to use bags but I noticed a pretty significant improvement in aroma and flavor once I went loose...I have never had mine clog ever during transfer...the crash really compacts everything to below the spigot and leaving it on a tilt helps prevent a mess also...

I’ve gone back and forth with bagging and not bagging...many times.

You can get the same aroma and flavor.

One trick I learned from couchsending is before taking your dry hops out of the packaging or the vacuum sealed bag you stored them in...crush them.

I use a hammer and a couple paper towels on top of the package to prevent tearing the package (can happen anyways)....crush them into powder...and then bag and proceed.

*Frankly it works without crushing them also...I think the real key to getting good flavor out of bagged hops is shaking the fermenter....of course this requires head pressure to avoid oxidizing.

 

[jakturner]

Does your fermentor not fit in your kegerator??? If you have no way to cold crash I would say you have no choice but to bag em...I used to use bags but I noticed a pretty significant improvement in aroma and flavor once I went loose...I have never had mine clog ever during transfer...the crash really compacts everything to below the spigot and leaving it on a tilt helps prevent a mess also...

I could but it’s a major PITA. I use this 7cu ft fridge and it fits 2 5 gal corny plus a 3 gal corny and co2 bottle on the ‘hump’ in the back. In the past I’ve had to pull all the kegs out and put a step stool in there that’s level with the hump for carboys to fit.

 

[VirginiaHops1]

If you can't cold crash definitely bag the hops. I used to do closed transfers from my carboy to keg and didn't cold crash because of O2 suck back. I had to bag to avoid clogs and still got them sometimes anyways. You can still produce good flavor with bagged hops but my experience has been better with free floating hops now that I ferment in kegs and can do that easily, but my process has also improved gradually over time too so I guess I wouldn't know for sure without doing a side by side with exact same recipe and exact same process.

 

[jakturner]

If you can't cold crash definitely bag the hops. I used to do closed transfers from my carboy to keg and didn't cold crash because of O2 suck back. I had to bag to avoid clogs and still got them sometimes anyways. You can still produce good flavor with bagged hops but my experience has been better with free floating hops now that I ferment in kegs and can do that easily, but my process has also improved gradually over time too so I guess I wouldn't know for sure without doing a side by side with exact same recipe and exact same process.

Yeah, I’ve never bagged before but this got me thinking about it. http://brulosophy.com/2019/03/11/im...ter-on-dry-hop-character-exbeeriment-results/

 

[VirginiaHops1]

Yeah, I’ve never bagged before but this got me thinking about it. http://brulosophy.com/2019/03/11/im...ter-on-dry-hop-character-exbeeriment-results/

The thing those exbeeriments has taught me more than anything is that people's palates generally suck when trying to detect subtle tastes. Even when they test things we basically know are true and matter the results are often split. I wouldn't worry if you bag hops that your beer will suck or anything. If there is any effect it will likely be small, but intuitively it makes sense that pellet hops would have the best chance of imparting max flavor if they aren't crammed into a bag or container(considering how much they expand when wet).

 

[Hannabrew]

The thing those exbeeriments has taught me more than anything is that people's palates generally suck when trying to detect subtle tastes. Even when they test things we basically know are true and matter the results are often split. I wouldn't worry if you bag hops that your beer will suck or anything. If there is any effect it will likely be small, but intuitively it makes sense that pellet hops would have the best chance of imparting max flavor if they aren't crammed into a bag or container(considering how much they expand when wet).

Indeed. I get more value out of the recipes and processes detailed in their articles than the results.

 

[SRJHops]

Had a nice visit to PianoMan's town (Austin, Tx) last week and made it to 6 breweries. Thanks to his recommendations, we had some tasty NEIPAs, with our favorites found at Southern Heights Brewing (see photo below).

By our count they had at least 4 NEIPA's. Not sure if it was the 7.6 ABV, but our favorite was 93 Bronco, which used Idaho 7, El Dorado, and Citra.

Close behind was To the Cloud!, followed by Friends with Benefits, which they brewed in collaboration with our second favorite brewery, Zilker. Tahitian Dreamin was also solid. Love that they post the hops they use for their beers.

We also had Pinthouse Pizza's "Electric Jellyfish" on tap at a local bar. It was easily the best beer we had that day -- very good NEIPA that I bet tastes even better at the source.

 

[ba-brewer]

Yes but I’d rather only have it sitting at room temp to carbonate for 5-7 days instead of 14 when priming.

Do you check the gravity after 5-7days or just go by pressure?

I capped a keg with 4points to target FG and the pressure when up to 22psi pretty quick like 24hours but when I checked it 5 days later it had only dropped 1 point. 7days and it is still building pressure and has not moved mush on gravity. I left to continue normally and it hit final gravity as expected. I kegged 3.5days post pitch at 1016 still only about 1015, non kegged went to 1012. 1050 start gravity.

 

[ThirstyPawsHB]

Had a nice visit to PianoMan's town (Austin, Tx) last week and made it to 6 breweries. Thanks to his recommendations, we had some tasty NEIPAs, with our favorites found at Southern Heights Brewing (see photo below).

By our count they had at least 4 NEIPA's. Not sure if it was the 7.6 ABV, but our favorite was 93 Bronco, which used Idaho 7, El Dorado, and Citra.

Close behind was To the Cloud!, followed by Friends with Benefits, which they brewed in collaboration with our second favorite brewery, Zilker. Tahitian Dreamin was also solid. Love that they post the hops they use for their beers.

We also had Pinthouse Pizza's "Electric Jellyfish" on tap at a local bar. It was easily the best beer we had that day -- very good NEIPA that I bet tastes even better at the source.

View attachment 618144

Glad you had a good time man! Maybe next tume I can join you for a round.

 

[couchsending]

Do you check the gravity after 5-7days or just go by pressure?

I capped a keg with 4points to target FG and the pressure when up to 22psi pretty quick like 24hours but when I checked it 5 days later it had only dropped 1 point. 7days and it is still building pressure and has not moved mush on gravity. I left to continue normally and it hit final gravity as expected. I kegged 3.5days post pitch at 1016 still only about 1015, non kegged went to 1012. 1050 start gravity.

I base it off the fermenting beer I pull it from and when it finishes fermentation.

 

[AnttiLeh]

Hello all,

firsttimer here in this forum. Im planning to brew this recipe tomorrow and have few questions about fermentation times and dry hop.

I dont have kegs, so im going to bottle this set.

From Braufessors second update, im going to make it with one dry hop. Im planning to dry hop on day 3 like the
recipe. On day 6 move the worth to second fermentation bottle. Keep it there for 6-8 days and bottle this lovely beer
with sugar.

Im planning to move the beer to second fermentation bottle to avoid too long dry hop time, is this unnessesery?
What other stuff should I take note on this recipe because im bottling and not kegging?

Thanks guys!

 

[leesmith]

I base it off the fermenting beer I pull it from and when it finishes fermentation.

So no testing? Either with hydrometer or checking pressure against temperature on a carbonation chart?

 

[Hannabrew]

Hello all,

firsttimer here in this forum. Im planning to brew this recipe tomorrow and have few questions about fermentation times and dry hop.

I dont have kegs, so im going to bottle this set.

From Braufessors second update, im going to make it with one dry hop. Im planning to dry hop on day 3 like the
recipe. On day 6 move the worth to second fermentation bottle. Keep it there for 6-8 days and bottle this lovely beer
with sugar.

Im planning to move the beer to second fermentation bottle to avoid too long dry hop time, is this unnessesery?
What other stuff should I take note on this recipe because im bottling and not kegging?

Thanks guys!

Definitely unnecessary and will do more harm than good. If I were you I would bottle straight out of the primary if possible

 

[doogie]

Hello all,

firsttimer here in this forum. Im planning to brew this recipe tomorrow and have few questions about fermentation times and dry hop.

I dont have kegs, so im going to bottle this set.

From Braufessors second update, im going to make it with one dry hop. Im planning to dry hop on day 3 like the
recipe. On day 6 move the worth to second fermentation bottle. Keep it there for 6-8 days and bottle this lovely beer
with sugar.

Im planning to move the beer to second fermentation bottle to avoid too long dry hop time, is this unnessesery?
What other stuff should I take note on this recipe because im bottling and not kegging?

Thanks guys!

This beer is exceptionally prone to oxidation. Give it a shot, but I would not perform a transfer to secondary, it's just another place where oxygen gets introduced. Very few have had success bottling. My versions of this got a lot better when I started doing a closed transfer to a purged keg.

 

[Hannabrew]

So no testing? Either with hydrometer or checking pressure against temperature on a carbonation chart?

Are you referring to taking measurements before spunding or to determine if it's finished?

If the latter, you go by pressure as long as your valve is not leaking.

If the former, you take a hydrometer or adjusted refractometer reading and use that and the fft to determine timing of the spund

 

[tld6008]

Hello all,

firsttimer here in this forum. Im planning to brew this recipe tomorrow and have few questions about fermentation times and dry hop.

I dont have kegs, so im going to bottle this set.

From Braufessors second update, im going to make it with one dry hop. Im planning to dry hop on day 3 like the
recipe. On day 6 move the worth to second fermentation bottle. Keep it there for 6-8 days and bottle this lovely beer
with sugar.

Im planning to move the beer to second fermentation bottle to avoid too long dry hop time, is this unnessesery?
What other stuff should I take note on this recipe because im bottling and not kegging?

Thanks guys!

That length for dry hopping is not excessive. If you bottle you are already planning to oxidize, moving to secondary is another plan to do the same so keep it in primary.
I would use those sugar pills in each bottle and bottle from primary.

 

[marchuk96]

That length for dry hopping is not excessive. If you bottle you are already planning to oxidize, moving to secondary is another plan to do the same so keep it in primary.
I would use those sugar pills in each bottle and bottle from primary.

Imhbo...i would def not transfer...no need for secondary...leave it in primary the whole time...I would also hold the dry hop to like 24-48 hr's before you plan on bottling...u can try soft crashing if u are capable of doing so to try and drop some yeast out...rewarm to room temp then dry hop and then bottle...some studies have shown after 6 hr's at a home brew level maximum extraction takes place when dry hopping...I have employed about a 40 hr time frame between dry hop cold crash and packaging(keg) and yielded fantastic results...good luck

 

[lupulinaddict]

Imhbo...i would def not transfer...no need for secondary...leave it in primary the whole time...I would also hold the dry hop to like 24-48 hr's before you plan on bottling...u can try soft crashing if u are capable of doing so to try and drop some yeast out...rewarm to room temp then dry hop and then bottle...some studies have shown after 6 hr's at a home brew level maximum extraction takes place when dry hopping...I have employed about a 40 hr time frame between dry hop cold crash and packaging(keg) and yielded fantastic results...good luck

How are you, and others, that dry hop in primary the day before kegging adding the hops? Are you doing a diacetyl rest too? I thought at the time of packaging the beer would be finished, and the yeast would be exhausted so it couldn’t expel the introduced o2 from opening the airlock to add the hops.

Lately, I have been adding hops in the keg so I didn’t have to open the primary. Wondering if it’s worth the effort or not.

 

[SRJHops]

Hello all,

firsttimer here in this forum. Im planning to brew this recipe tomorrow and have few questions about fermentation times and dry hop.

I dont have kegs, so im going to bottle this set.

From Braufessors second update, im going to make it with one dry hop. Im planning to dry hop on day 3 like the
recipe. On day 6 move the worth to second fermentation bottle. Keep it there for 6-8 days and bottle this lovely beer
with sugar.

Im planning to move the beer to second fermentation bottle to avoid too long dry hop time, is this unnessesery?
What other stuff should I take note on this recipe because im bottling and not kegging?

Thanks guys!

Welcome! I'm one of the few bottlers on this site (most seem to keg), so I'm happy to share what I've learned about bottling this style. My NEIPA's don't oxidize anymore, and in fact taste best after about 5 weeks in the bottle.

First and foremost, oxygen is your enemy. I would be way more worried about oxidizing your beer than dry hop lengths.

This means do not transfer to secondary, and do not transfer to the bottling bucket. Just bottle right from the primary fermenter into bottles with sugar in them. I bottle into bombers and use 2 Cooper's carbonation drops, but you could also use regular bottling sugar.

You don't have to worry about the first dry hop, because you'll have plenty of co2 that will force out the oxygen. For the second one, though, I purge using a can of wine preserver spray (about $7 on the internet).

Let me know if you have any questions, and while they mean well, don't let anyone tell you that you can't bottle a NEIPA if you take some simple steps to keep oxygen away from your beer!