New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

[Braufessor]

I know there has been talk about trying 1272 but don't remember any reports. Anyone try it? Noah from Bissell Brothers was on Brewing Network last night and said they have been using BSI A72 for all of their pale beers for the last two years. The source of that yeast is Anchor. They switched to the yeast as a one batch trial for Substance and they loved the results. Basically they stumbled across the "haze" by accident when trying that yeast. They have even tried to a small test batch and attempted to use biofine to clear it and it still remained hazy. Long interview but some really good nuggets of information in there. Worth the listen for sure.

I have used 1272 quite a bit. I was very happy with the results. Conan, 1272 and 1318 are pretty much the 3 yeasts I use for this and would recommend. I use them fairly interchangeably, and often it simply depends on what yeast I am growing up for various beers.

 

[stickyfinger]

Had been meaning to brew this Brau Original, the Big Muddy Red:

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/forum/threads/northeast-style-ipa.568046/page-64#post-7836716

Brewed a variation with Pearl malt and no flaked grains on 10.30.17, and it tastes as good as it ever has today! It's a great beer, lots of super fresh "classic" hop character with a very firm maltiness that really adds to it. Great combo. Thanks Brau! Everyone loves it. Well, my friend's dad said, "oh, you guys like that river water, hoppy beer!" and i said, "hell yeah!" This really does look like river water, but tastes awesome!

Malt: %
TF&S Pearl Malt 77.0
Best Munich Malt 14.0
Crystal 80L 3.5
Crystal 60L 3.5
Aromatic 26L 1.5
Midnight Wheat 0.5

Balanced water profile b/w chloride and sulfate

40 IBUs Tinseth of Summit at 60
1 oz/gal Falconer's Flight at 165F for 60 mins hopstand
dry hop after high krausen with 0.5 oz/gal each of Cascade, Centennial, and FF

yeast was a blend of WLP095 (Burlington Ale) and Conan (OYL version)

make sure to transfer into a CO2-purged keg as always!

 

[stickyfinger]

I have used 1272 quite a bit. I was very happy with the results. Conan, 1272 and 1318 are pretty much the 3 yeasts I use for this and would recommend. I use them fairly interchangeably, and often it simply depends on what yeast I am growing up for various beers.

Have you guys found that a certain version of Conan works better than others. I like the flavors of the OYL Conan, but it definitely leaves a high FG in my experience. Is the Giga Yeast, Imperial or Yeast Bay a more reliable attenuator?

 

[Braufessor]

Had been meaning to brew this Brau Original, the Big Muddy Red:

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/forum/threads/northeast-style-ipa.568046/page-64#post-7836716

Brewed a variation with Pearl malt and no flaked grains on 10.30.17, and it tastes as good as it ever has today! It's a great beer, lots of super fresh "classic" hop character with a very firm maltiness that really adds to it. Great combo. Thanks Brau! Everyone loves it. Well, my friend's dad said, "oh, you guys like that river water, hoppy beer!" and i said, "hell yeah!" This really does look like river water, but tastes awesome!

Malt: %
TF&S Pearl Malt 77.0
Best Munich Malt 14.0
Crystal 80L 3.5
Crystal 60L 3.5
Aromatic 26L 1.5
Midnight Wheat 0.5

Balanced water profile b/w chloride and sulfate

40 IBUs Tinseth of Summit at 60
1 oz/gal Falconer's Flight at 165F for 60 mins hopstand
dry hop after high krausen with 0.5 oz/gal each of Cascade, Centennial, and FF

yeast was a blend of WLP095 (Burlington Ale) and Conan (OYL version)

make sure to transfer into a CO2-purged keg as always!

That is awesome - thanks for sharing. Gives me some motivation to get back after this one.

Looks perfect and I love the "hoppy river water" quote - named after the Mississippi River after all (inspired by Dubuque Star Big Muddy Red - the first "craft beer" I ever really loved). I am actually brewing a batch or two of this in the next week and was going to play around with a couple variations. To this day, there is nothing I love more than a truly great hoppy amber ale..... there aren't many out there, but, when you can find them - they are great. When done properly, they are rich and chewy.... but not overly caramel flavored. Classic hops - cascades, centennials, amarillo seem to do the trick in these beers as the classic citrus seems to cut the caramel. Going to try a batch with 1318 to see how that works, and then probably my stand by recipe with 1056.

A few that have inspired me to chase this style:
Big Muddy Red - Dubuque Star
Red Seal Ale - North Coast
Hop Head Red - Green Flash
Ambergeddon - Ale Asylum (Hit and miss - but there have been some great batches of this.)

 

[SailorJerry]

Have you guys found that a certain version of Conan works better than others. I like the flavors of the OYL Conan, but it definitely leaves a high FG in my experience. Is the Giga Yeast, Imperial or Yeast Bay a more reliable attenuator?

My first try with Conan from OYL went from 1.053ish to 1.008 in 5 days. Shocked me.

 

[stickyfinger]

To this day, there is nothing I love more than a truly great hoppy amber ale..... there aren't many out there, but, when you can find them - they are great. When done properly, they are rich and chewy.... but not overly caramel flavored. Classic hops - cascades, centennials, amarillo seem to do the trick in these beers as the classic citrus seems to cut the caramel. Going to try a batch with 1318 to see how that works, and then probably my stand by recipe with 1056.

Have some very fond memories of Red Seal Ale myself, great beer. I really like the classic hop profile. I also did a "red ipa" using C60 alone at 10% with an exclusive dryhop using Denali. It was a super pineapple bomb, but it really worked with the malty, caramel flavor as well. People really loved that one too.

 

[Northern_Brewer]

Have you guys found that a certain version of Conan works better than others.

It's definitely the case that they're not the same and you should think of a Conan family rather than a single Conan strain. WLP095 seems to flocc more than is typical for instance, and people report variations in peachiness between different versions.

Having said that, it's common for first-generation Conans to not attenuate very well, but they're much better in the second generation and beyond. John Kimmich claims to be able to tell by taste which generation of yeast a beer is made from. He goes up to 10th generation, and apparently Greg Noonan up to 20, but beyond that it doesn't "go bad" exactly but it starts cycling between good and bad batches.

 

[aaronm13]

Kegged my second version tonight and my final gravity only finished at 1.012 again. Second time at that, should have been around 1.008. Any ideas why I can't get down those final few points? Using Yeast Bay Vermont yeast, this is the second beer using the same strain and make a double size starter each time for another batch. Maybe I miscalculated the amount of yeast I had as I always raise the temperature to 70-71 after dry hopping. I have a cold now so can't really taste it properly so hopefully when my cold shifts it will be good to drink.

 

[jjw5015]

Kegged my second version tonight and my final gravity only finished at 1.012 again. Second time at that, should have been around 1.008. Any ideas why I can't get down those final few points? Using Yeast Bay Vermont yeast, this is the second beer using the same strain and make a double size starter each time for another batch. Maybe I miscalculated the amount of yeast I had as I always raise the temperature to 70-71 after dry hopping. I have a cold now so can't really taste it properly so hopefully when my cold shifts it will be good to drink.

Lower your mash temp

 

[aaronm13]

Lower your mash temp

I mashed at 66°C/151°F, is that temperature too high for this style?

 

[Braufessor]

Kegged my second version tonight and my final gravity only finished at 1.012 again. Second time at that, should have been around 1.008. Any ideas why I can't get down those final few points? Using Yeast Bay Vermont yeast, this is the second beer using the same strain and make a double size starter each time for another batch. Maybe I miscalculated the amount of yeast I had as I always raise the temperature to 70-71 after dry hopping. I have a cold now so can't really taste it properly so hopefully when my cold shifts it will be good to drink.

Personally, that sounds just fine to me. I don't think I would ever want this beer to finish down around 1.008. Mine are always in that 1.011-1.012 range. That said, if you want to thin it out and get down to 1.008, mash lower (147-149), use a more attentive yeast, add a pound of corn sugar in place of a pound of grain..... Like I said, I think you are right in the ball park as it is.

 

[jivy26]

So I have a nice healthy krausen but no bubbler activity with 1318... krausen is big but just weird I've never not had major bubbler activity. Pitched a 2000ml starter and all.

Don't think I need to be concerned unless my FG stalls or something right?

 

[aaronm13]

Personally, that sounds just fine to me. I don't think I would ever want this beer to finish down around 1.008. Mine are always in that 1.011-1.012 range. That said, if you want to thin it out and get down to 1.008, mash lower (147-149), use a more attentive yeast, add a pound of corn sugar in place of a pound of grain..... Like I said, I think you are right in the ball park as it is.

Ah cool, thanks Braufessor. I'm happy with it just Beersmith had final gravity of 1.008 so thought I was doing something wrong. Can't wait to try it now as I did the newer hop combination with Simcoe and 1 dry hop. Which ever is my favorite will be a regular brew for me as a two week turn around is awesome.

 

[fragged]

So I have a nice healthy krausen but no bubbler activity with 1318... krausen is big but just weird I've never not had major bubbler activity. Pitched a 2000ml starter and all.

Don't think I need to be concerned unless my FG stalls or something right?

Assuming you're talking about the airlock, and assuming your talking high Krausen (day 2 or 3). If so and you have Krausen but no bubbles, I'd say you have an air leak somewhere. If using a bucket, then that's pretty normal. If using something else, check your connections, if it's bothering you.

 

[jivy26]

Assuming you're talking about the airlock, and assuming your talking high Krausen (day 2 or 3). If so and you have Krausen but no bubbles, I'd say you have an air leak somewhere. If using a bucket, then that's pretty normal. If using something else, check your connections, if it's bothering you.

Long as it doesn't affect my beer I care less [emoji23] and yes a bucket

 

[fragged]

Long as it doesn't affect my beer I care less [emoji23] and yes a bucket

Ah, ya, the lids have no seals on those. For some reason when I was using them, I'd have some batches that would bubble, others not. I assume it was just pick of getting the lid oriented for its best seal. Never had a batch affected by it, just got a couple big mouth bubblers I use now. They'd come back into action with out a thought if I needed them.

 

[jammin]

View attachment 550074 View attachment 550075 So just tapped the WLP007 batch.

OG 1.056
FG 1.009
5.5 Gallons

8lbs 2-Row
4lbs White Wheat
Mashed at 152

(Only did a 30min boil)
30min- .25oz Mosaic
30min- .25oz Citra
Flameout- 1.75oz Mosaic (30min)
Flameout- 1.75oz Citra (30min)
Dry Hop 1- 2oz Mosaic (18 Days) added about 48hrs into fermentation
Dry Hop 2- 2oz Citra (13 Days)
No Keg Hops(moving away from this)

Yeast- WLP007 (no starter). Fermented at 63-65. Moved to low 70s at about 1 week. Sample tested on day 3 at 1.010. It was a quick worker.

Left in primary for 20 days. Moved to keg under Co2 and left in room temperature for 7 days. Brought to kegerator and Co2 for 24 hrs and served.

Not as hazy as 1318 or S04. Flavor is a bit juicier imo.. this is the most wheat I have ever used. The mouthfeel is silky. This is close to 30days from brew day.

I'm curious how many others ferment for 20 days and & take a full 28 before serving an IPA. Ive never needed to ferm that long as i get great results in as little a 10 days grain to glass.

So what kind of good results has everyone got by fermenting their NEIPA for 20 days and aging it another week. Perhaps not traditional but maybe we're missing out.

 

[jivy26]

I'm curious how many others ferment for 20 days and & take a full 28 before serving an IPA. Ive never needed to ferm that long as i get great results in as little a 10 days grain to glass.

So what kind of good results has everyone got by fermenting their NEIPA for 20 days and aging it another week. Perhaps not traditional but maybe we're missing out.

I have found 10-12 days fine for me I don't know of any real benefits of longer fermenting times for this style? I mean if you FG hasn't moved and it's been a few days why not keg it? I have seen others kegging around day 7-8 with 1318, I am going to try this when I brew again next week and gauge everything off the FG.

 

[stickyfinger]

a longer rest can be better in some recipes to round out flavors. can do that in the keg too of course. longer warm rests help to insure diacetyl precursors are as low as possible.

 

[Braufessor]

I am always putting mine on tap by day 12-14 and drinking it by day 14-18 range. That being said, the main advantage I see in not trying to press it faster than I do (and for others giving it even more time) would be:
1.) VDK/Diacetyl issues that can pop up in these types of beers with big dry hops. The addition of hops later on (after active fermentation) can kick start a "small" fermentation from the carbohydrates in the hops (producing Diacetyl precursors). If the beer is then pulled off the yeast quickly before it is cleaned up, you can end up with some nasty off flavors in your beer. I have had my own versions and commercial versions that tasted great at stages of fermentation, but then all of a sudden turned horrible after a second dry hop and kegging. (This is also a reason I have moved toward 1 dry hop at day 2-3 range and nothing after that. Gives me all the flavor I was getting doing 2 dry hops and seems to give me a cleaner/rounder beer as well).
2.) Time lets hop debris settle out.... depending on someone's system and their ability to transfer..... there is not many things that are a bigger PITA than constantly trying to unplug keg posts stuffed with hops. So, extra time might be ok for that for some people too. That sort of thing can vary from person to person and system to system.

 

[jivy26]

So to your first point, your doing your entire DH at once 2-3 days into fermenting and noticing the same aroma and flavor as doing multiple charges over a longer period of time?

 

[pearljam1984]

I'm curious how many others ferment for 20 days and & take a full 28 before serving an IPA. Ive never needed to ferm that long as i get great results in as little a 10 days grain to glass.

So what kind of good results has everyone got by fermenting their NEIPA for 20 days and aging it another week. Perhaps not traditional but maybe we're missing out.

I would ageee 10-12 day mark seems appropriate and what I have followed in the past. I have always hit FG with in the first week. I will leave in the keg for 2 weeks before tapping. Personal preference there. The difference as I noted on the 20day ferment was dry Hop felt. However it could have been the yeast too, first time using WLP007.

It wasn’t/isn’t about reinventing the wheel. What does drink fresh mean? 10days? 28 days? I will leave it up to personal interpretation. Same with amount of hops used. There is a point of diminishing returns.

 

[jjw5015]

I mashed at 66°C/151°F, is that temperature too high for this style?

No that seems appropriate, but why are you expecting to get down to 1.008? typically this style is 1.012 and up

 

[Braufessor]

So to your first point, your doing your entire DH at once 2-3 days into fermenting and noticing the same aroma and flavor as doing multiple charges over a longer period of time?

Yes - I have been as pleased or maybe even more-so just throwing 6 ounces in on day 2-3 and nothing more..... Kegging it around day 12-14. Great flavor and aroma. And, definitely a more streamlined process.

 

[aaronm13]

No that seems appropriate, but why are you expecting to get down to 1.008? typically this style is 1.012 and up

As I said above in my reply to Braufessor that Beersmith had my final gravity to finish at 1.008. Only doing all grain about a year so still learning. The more comfortable I get I hope to be less reliant on software.

 

[Oldskewl]

As I said above in my reply to Braufessor that Beersmith had my final gravity to finish at 1.008. Only doing all grain about a year so still learning. The more comfortable I get I hope to be less reliant on software.

I really wouldn't sweat a couple points. Beersmith and Brewers Friend tend to be a little low on FG from my experience. 1.012 - 1.014 is ideal. My last batch using 1318 was around 1.018 and it was fine. It actually had more mouthfeel, which fits the style.

 

[degivens]

Yes - I have been as pleased or maybe even more-so just throwing 6 ounces in on day 2-3 and nothing more..... Kegging it around day 12-14. Great flavor and aroma. And, definitely a more streamlined process.

Same here. Great aroma and much easier process wise. A lot less can go wrong. I’ve been doing on DH for quite some time and been super pleased.

 

[jivy26]

Went to put my DH at day 3 and krausen has dropped so pulled a sample and 1.016 already [emoji7] 1318 does quick work.

 

[Braufessor]

My stepson is good at christmas shopping......

 

[jivy26]

My stepson is good at christmas shopping......
View attachment 550602 View attachment 550603

I need him as a son [emoji23]