New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

[BrewinSoldier]

Second batch based on this recipe is tasting great. Needed a little time to get past the bite/tingle from the heavy dry hop (you could see fine hop particles in the first several glasses, even after transferring through a 300 micron filter on the dip tube of the dry hop keg).

Brewed 1/7 and kegged 1/21. Columbus for bittering, the remaining four additions were 1.5 oz Citra and 1.5 oz Mosaic. OG of 1.070 and FG of 1.012, for ~7.8%.

That looks great. How'd you get it so orange looking? I'm guessing you used Marris otter as your base malt. That seems to be what gives it a more orangish hue.

I used the recipe in the original posting and have a batch in the fermenter as we speak. SG was dead on at 1.062, but with 1318 and only a 1 liter starter at 3 days on a stirplate, my gravity right now is already 1.008 and it's still blowing bubbles pretty good. It's only been in the fermenter since Friday night at around 9pm, so not even 3 days. My mash pH was higher than calculated on Bru n water. I had it calculated at 5.39 and it ended up at 5.56. I'm gonna add the first dry hops tonight so we will see if that changes the color any. It tasted pretty good already from the sample I just tasted so I'm happy with that.

 

[emr25]

I used 50% Rahr 2-Row, 50% Muntons Pale Maris Otter for the base malts, and also a touch of C-40L, which may have added a little orange.

It is very lighting dependent, it is more yellow in low light but a great light orange in direct sunlight. I'd actually like it to be a little more orange and someone suggested using some Vienna, so I'll try that in a future batch.

I also used 1318 (1500mL starter, saved 500mL and pitched 1000mL at high krausen) and went from 1.070 to 1.015 in 48 hours. Added the first dry hop at that point, it ended up finishing at 1.012.

Grain Bill
6 lbs Rahr 2 Row
6 lbs Muntons Pale Maris Otter
1 lbs Flaked Oats
0.5 lbs Flaked Barley
0.5 lbs Rahr White Wheat
0.25 lbs Gambrinus Honey
0.25 lbs Briess 2 Row 40L

 

[HObrew]

Awesome. If I make it bigger, I basically just scale up all of the grains in the same percentages (give or take round numbers).

Still new to this. In homebrew terms, does bigger mean bigger volume or higher abv?

Forgot to thank you for the recipe.

THANKS! It's amazing and I actually prefer it over a few of the NEIPAs I've tried. Now I want to brew two more batches in one day to give it a fighting chance to mature a bit.

I'm very impatient with my brews.

Wondering what all citra and all mosaic will taste like. I have some Treehouse brewery - green and taste pineapples and will be buying some eldorado soon!

 

[globe]

Sorry if this has been answered but is everyone using half 2 row/ half marris otter to save money or does it actually make a difference vs all Marris otter?

 

[02RedWS6TA]

I used 50% Rahr 2-Row, 50% Muntons Pale Maris Otter for the base malts, and also a touch of C-40L, which may have added a little orange.

It is very lighting dependent, it is more yellow in low light but a great light orange in direct sunlight. I'd actually like it to be a little more orange and someone suggested using some Vienna, so I'll try that in a future batch.

I also used 1318 (1500mL starter, saved 500mL and pitched 1000mL at high krausen) and went from 1.070 to 1.015 in 48 hours. Added the first dry hop at that point, it ended up finishing at 1.012.

Grain Bill
6 lbs Rahr 2 Row
6 lbs Muntons Pale Maris Otter
1 lbs Flaked Oats
0.5 lbs Flaked Barley
0.5 lbs Rahr White Wheat
0.25 lbs Gambrinus Honey
0.25 lbs Briess 2 Row 40L

My gain bill I came up with is really close to this. Mosaic, citra, Amarillo hops going in it.

 

[Braufessor]

Still new to this. In homebrew terms, does bigger mean bigger volume or higher abv?

Forgot to thank you for the recipe.

THANKS! It's amazing and I actually prefer it over a few of the NEIPAs I've tried. Now I want to brew two more batches in one day to give it a fighting chance to mature a bit.

I'm very impatient with my brews.

Wondering what all citra and all mosaic will taste like. I have some Treehouse brewery - green and taste pineapples and will be buying some eldorado soon!

Yes--- meaning higher gravity (higher ABV). So, if I wanted to take it up to 1.070-1.080 starting gravity, I would likely just increase everything in the same/close to the same ratios.

 

[olotti]

Sorry if this has been answered but is everyone using half 2 row/ half marris otter to save money or does it actually make a difference vs all Marris otter?

Just depends on what u want. You'll get more malt taste out of marris otter so it's a good compliment to doing a half 2 row/MO mix that way for me I don't have to add any other base malts like Vienna or Munich but I also a lot of time just use all 2 row with dashes of c10, white wheat, flaked oats, barley, and carapils. The fun is in experimenting but the original recipe brau uses 2 row and golden promise which is lighter than MO but just slightly maltier than 2 row. Heck I think an even all MO base wouldn't be bad in this and it gives a nice color too.

 

[murphyslaw]

Does anyone happen have a picture of a successful batch in the fermenter close to kegging day? I usually watch for my beer to drop clear but I'm not sure what to expect here. I'm on day 8 of my first batch and it doesn't look my different than day 1.

 

[hezagenius]

Does anyone happen have a picture of a successful batch in the fermenter close to kegging day? I usually watch for my beer to drop clear but I'm not sure what to expect here. I'm on day 8 of my first batch and it doesn't look my different than day 1.

Mine looks the same on Day 7 as Day 1 except less green and more yellowish. I don't think you should expect this style to clear up. Have you taken a gravity reading?

Mine is typically in a keg by Day 7 for a 2nd round of dry hops.

 

[HOPME]

@Murphyslaw, She's murky the whole way through. Just kegged it. Will post pic of what she looks like Fri/Sat.

 

[hezagenius]

Here's mine right before racking to keg on Day 7

 

[murphyslaw]

Thanks @hopme and @hezagenius, that's helpful to know. I thought maybe it would clear up some, but not completely. I have not taken a gravity reading, but I will before I keg. With all the talk about O2 being particularly troublesome for this beer, I didn't want to open it up.

Also, I make a lot of traditional IPAs--probably 5-6 last year--but I always use a bag to contain my dry hops. This time I did not, and last time I looked, which was probably day 7 or 8, there was still a layer of hop matter floating at the top. I assume that's normal too? Does that drop or do you just drain from underneath it?

Man I feel like such a noob with these questions!

 

[hezagenius]

I racked from underneath mine. You can see there's a layer of hop sludge on the surface of mine.

From now on, I'm going to use a SS mesh tube around the racking cane. I picked up a lot of hop material just piercing that layer.

 

[murphyslaw]

I racked from underneath mine. You can see there's a layer of hop sludge on the surface of mine.

From now on, I'm going to use a SS mesh tube around the racking cane. I picked up a lot of hop material just piercing that layer.

Yeah, I see that. I posted before I saw your pic, thanks. My fermenter is ported. Hopefully I'll be okay pulling from underneath.

This is from day 3 or so. I think I'll add my second round of dry hops tomorrow and keg Sunday. I can't wait to put this in my mouth.

View attachment 1485897801060.jpg

 

[crusader1612]

Here's mine right before racking to keg on Day 7

day 7 of fermentation or dryhopping?
7 days seems a bit short for this?

 

[grassfeeder]

day 7 of fermentation or dryhopping?
7 days seems a bit short for this?

I've gone grain to glass in 7 days with these before. All depends on how quickly it gets fermenting really.

 

[crusader1612]

I've gone grain to glass in 7 days with these before. All depends on how quickly it gets fermenting really.

oh right - personally i dont think i'd be comfortable with that. i like to let the yeast condition and eat up any possible off-flavors before hand. but it obviously works foryou.

 

[hezagenius]

day 7 of fermentation or dryhopping?
7 days seems a bit short for this?

Fermentation. It started at 1.069 and was 1.014 on Day 7. That was my target. I did another dry hop for 2 days in the keg before chilling. It was still at 1.014 on Day 9.

 

[stickyfinger]

Thanks @hopme and @hezagenius, that's helpful to know. I thought maybe it would clear up some, but not completely. I have not taken a gravity reading, but I will before I keg. With all the talk about O2 being particularly troublesome for this beer, I didn't want to open it up.

Also, I make a lot of traditional IPAs--probably 5-6 last year--but I always use a bag to contain my dry hops. This time I did not, and last time I looked, which was probably day 7 or 8, there was still a layer of hop matter floating at the top. I assume that's normal too? Does that drop or do you just drain from underneath it?

Man I feel like such a noob with these questions!

i never take gravity samples with these. why risk oxidation? chill the beer down and the floating hops will sink and compact some. then u can rack off of them into your keg out poppet without clogs. i do this with 2oz/gal dry hops. works great

 

[TBillionaire]

kegged this Sunday-not carbed yet obviously but should I expect the hop bite to subside with time? I'm guessing since this is a big beer (8%) it might take more time for the yeast to fall out? I think I finally understand the term green though lol

 

[hezagenius]

kegged this Sunday-not carbed yet obviously but should I expect the hop bite to subside with time? I'm guessing since this is a big beer (8%) it might take more time for the yeast to fall out? I think I finally understand the term green though lol

Give it a few weeks. It takes some time for those hop particles to drop out.

 

[kevink]

kegged this Sunday-not carbed yet obviously but should I expect the hop bite to subside with time? I'm guessing since this is a big beer (8%) it might take more time for the yeast to fall out? I think I finally understand the term green though lol

Every three days or so, pour a few ounces to clear out the beer that's in the lines, which will be oxidized and gross, and then pour another few ounces. You will see a constant improvement. Deciding when it's good enough to drink will take many batches as each one is different. Sometimes you think it's at its prime, you start drinking the crap out of it, and it just keeps getting better. Sometimes it gets good fast and it starts declining before you begin drinking the crap out of it. There is a definite, large learning curve with these types of beers. The only way to understand them is to keep brewing them.

 

[jammin]

Every three days or so, pour a few ounces to clear out the beer that's in the lines, which will be oxidized and gross, and then pour another few ounces. You will see a constant improvement. Deciding when it's good enough to drink will take many batches as each one is different. Sometimes you think it's at its prime, you start drinking the crap out of it, and it just keeps getting better. Sometimes it gets good fast and it starts declining before you begin drinking the crap out of it. There is a definite, large learning curve with these types of beers. The only way to understand them is to keep brewing them.

Why are the first few ounces oxidizawed as hell?

 

[PissyFingers]

Why are the first few ounces oxidizawed as hell?

Yes wondering also, if you have no leaks in your system that will not be the case, even if you do the positive CO2 pressure will be leaching out, not letting O2 in.

 

[murphyslaw]

Yeah, I see that. I posted before I saw your pic, thanks. My fermenter is ported. Hopefully I'll be okay pulling from underneath.

This is from day 3 or so. I think I'll add my second round of dry hops tomorrow and keg Sunday. I can't wait to put this in my mouth.

It actually does seem slightly clearer, but nowhere near clear. Day 9.

View attachment 1485949272505.jpg

 

[HOPME]

It actually does seem slightly clearer, but nowhere near clear. Day 9.

Looking good Murph

 

[kevink]

Why are the first few ounces oxidizawed as hell?

Beer line is oxygen permeable. The beer that has been sitting in the line for even one day always tastes drastically different than what's right behind it in the keg. The difference is obvious to me, but maybe not everyone can detect it.

 

[Braufessor]

Beer line is oxygen permeable. The beer that has been sitting in the line for even one day always tastes drastically different than what's right behind it in the keg. The difference is obvious to me, but maybe not everyone can detect it.

I agree - I always dump the first couple ounces or so on the first pour of the night. Beer that has been sitting in the lines for a day+ is sub par in my opinion also. After the first pour of the night, subsequent pours I let it roll, but I always dispose of that first blast that has been sitting in the lines.

 

[HOPME]

I agree - I always dump the first couple ounces or so on the first pour of the night. Beer that has been sitting in the lines for a day+ is sub par in my opinion also. After the first pour of the night, subsequent pours I let it roll, but I always dispose of that first blast that has been sitting in the lines.

Is it O2, or maybe the line is the tower is warmer, so the first few ounces are off tasting, foamy?

 

[Braufessor]

Is it O2, or maybe the line is the tower is warmer, so the first few ounces are off tasting, foamy?

I think it is some of all those things.