New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

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My latest double NEIPA featuring Cryo Strata, Citra LUPOMAX, Galaxy and Nelson. Sitting right around 8.4%

Grains
70% - 2 row
20% - malted oats
10% - malted wheat

Hotside
1:1 strata cryo/Galaxy

Dryhop
1.5:1:1 Citra LUPOMAX/Galaxy/Nelson

Yeast
3rd gen imperial juice fermented 63*f - 65*f
217DD49D-C7C3-422A-87CF-E965586698A7.jpeg
 
Do you ferment all your hazies around 63-65? Any particular reason? Sorry if this was asked already.
 
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Do you ferment all your hazies around 63-65? Any particular reason? Sorry if this was asked already.
I was just experimenting to see how versatile a38 was. I wanted to see if it fermented cleaner lower as sometimes by the later generations the ester profile gets pretty big.

Certainly not clean, but it does have a noticeably different ester profile. Much more stonefruit than tropical. mouthfeel seems the same but the ester remind me of when your able to coax the correct ester profile from Conan
 
I was just experimenting to see how versatile a38 was. I wanted to see if it fermented cleaner lower as sometimes by the later generations the ester profile gets pretty big.

Certainly not clean, but it does have a noticeably different ester profile. Much more stonefruit than tropical. mouthfeel seems the same but the ester remind me of when your able to coax the correct ester profile from Conan
how do people see coastal haze vs dryhop. my memory of dryhop was that it had a lot more yeast character than coastal haze. i think that's why i miss the dryhop flavor. i really like a yeast that wants to party. ha ha.
 
how do people see coastal haze vs dryhop. my memory of dryhop was that it had a lot more yeast character than coastal haze. i think that's why i miss the dryhop flavor. i really like a yeast that wants to party. ha ha.
Coastal Haze has been a game changer for my neipas. I do love London Fog as well, but CH is fantastic. The hops shine brightly.
 
I only use 2 Row, White Wheat and Carafoam in my neipas. Carafoam isn't dextrose, but I guess it acts like it?

I've gone out to at least 5 or 7 generations with CH. I usually buy new packs when I place a big grain order.
Yeah, Im looking at making my starter tonight but hesitant to try to overbuild. Based on my QC report for the lot number I have, it stated I got 2.15B cells/ml so thats 86B in 40ml, and its three months old. Never understood how white labs assumes viability with their packaging but most other calculators estimate the viable cells as ~50-55%. Might just put up a 2L starter and call it a day lol. My OG will be ~1.072 and hoping to target 1.015.
 
Yeah, Im looking at making my starter tonight but hesitant to try to overbuild. Based on my QC report for the lot number I have, it stated I got 2.15B cells/ml so thats 86B in 40ml, and its three months old. Never understood how white labs assumes viability with their packaging but most other calculators estimate the viable cells as ~50-55%. Might just put up a 2L starter and call it a day lol. My OG will be ~1.072 and hoping to target 1.015.
Unless you're counting cells, there's no way to accurately tell. I've overbuilt from packaging that was 5 months old and had no issues. I use brewunited for a calculator, and it's done me good so far. A 3L starter is plenty to harvest and still pitch, for your situation.
 
how do people see coastal haze vs dryhop. my memory of dryhop was that it had a lot more yeast character than coastal haze. i think that's why i miss the dryhop flavor. i really like a yeast that wants to party. ha ha.
As I’m sure most are aware, I really like dryhop and it’s my favorite NEIPA yeast. I also really like London ale and imperials version of that strain. I’ve run coastal haze one and it was a fine yeast but not one I think I’ll invest the time in to see what I can get out of it (especially since #3 is on the way for me and I’m sure having 3 under 4 will certainly prevent a lot of brewing)

All that said, preference is everything and people like what they like. I personally can’t stand el dorado and will never again put it in a beer but I bet there is multiple people in this thread that would say it’s one of their favorite hops
 
Unless you're counting cells, there's no way to accurately tell. I've overbuilt from packaging that was 5 months old and had no issues. I use brewunited for a calculator, and it's done me good so far. A 3L starter is plenty to harvest and still pitch, for your situation.
Thanks, yeah I use brew united when overbuilding starters and brewers friend for others I am not. They aren't that far off from each other. So I just plugged in a 3L starter in brew united using the initial 86B cells that white labs QC report gave me and the inoculation rate is 16 and the calculator states it should between 25 and 100 for "best growth". Of course brew united estimates the viable cells at 55%, but white labs packaging claims that the # of viable cells doesn't decline as much as the calculators suggest anyways, so I suppose you are right, the 3L starter would be plenty for an overbuild. I just hate all the variability in this and prob just need to relax lol.
 
As I’m sure most are aware, I really like dryhop and it’s my favorite NEIPA yeast. I also really like London ale and imperials version of that strain. I’ve run coastal haze one and it was a fine yeast but not one I think I’ll invest the time in to see what I can get out of it (especially since #3 is on the way for me and I’m sure having 3 under 4 will certainly prevent a lot of brewing)

All that said, preference is everything and people like what they like. I personally can’t stand el dorado and will never again put it in a beer but I bet there is multiple people in this thread that would say it’s one of their favorite hops
3 kids in 4 years! Been there done that dude! lol. Mine are now 13,15,17 yrs old so I have a whole assortment of different issues to deal with which also prevents me from having the brew days I want lol.
 
Thanks, yeah I use brew united when overbuilding starters and brewers friend for others I am not. They aren't that far off from each other. So I just plugged in a 3L starter in brew united using the initial 86B cells that white labs QC report gave me and the inoculation rate is 16 and the calculator states it should between 25 and 100 for "best growth". Of course brew united estimates the viable cells at 55%, but white labs packaging claims that the # of viable cells doesn't decline as much as the calculators suggest anyways, so I suppose you are right, the 3L starter would be plenty for an overbuild. I just hate all the variability in this and prob just need to relax lol.
I honestly don't pay a ton of attention to the growth rate, even though it's very important. I try to get above 25, but often times I do not. RDWHAHB is my motto lol. I've done it a ton with CH and LF. You'll be good.
 
As I’m sure most are aware, I really like dryhop and it’s my favorite NEIPA yeast. I also really like London ale and imperials version of that strain. I’ve run coastal haze one and it was a fine yeast but not one I think I’ll invest the time in to see what I can get out of it (especially since #3 is on the way for me and I’m sure having 3 under 4 will certainly prevent a lot of brewing)

All that said, preference is everything and people like what they like. I personally can’t stand el dorado and will never again put it in a beer but I bet there is multiple people in this thread that would say it’s one of their favorite hops
We still have to meet up and beer swap, but seems like you've been busy LOL.

Jokes aside, I'm not an El Dorado fan either. I'm actually not a fan of a lot of the tropical or NZ hops. I'm still stuck on Citra...
 
We still have to meet up and beer swap, but seems like you've been busy LOL.

Jokes aside, I'm not an El Dorado fan either. I'm actually not a fan of a lot of the tropical or NZ hops. I'm still stuck on Citra...
Haha we really do. I’m certainly down but have zero clue when I’ll have time. If you ever make the trip to fiden’s let me know, you can literally just stop by my house, I’ll even feed ya lol
 
Haha we really do. I’m certainly down but have zero clue when I’ll have time. If you ever make the trip to fiden’s let me know, you can literally just stop by my house, I’ll even feed ya lol
Now that's an invitation! Been meaning to get to Fiden's at some point. I'll let you know!
 
FYI, they're designing and setting up a dedicated taproom in downtown Albany separate from the existing production facility. Probably not open until late spring or summer though, so doesn't help for the immediate future. And I'm a stone's throw from @Dgallo so he better invite me too lol.
 
I could use some help with my volumes on these beers. As I increase hopping rates the losses get a little out of hand. But I'm really liking to these hopping rates! Best beers yet.

Last one yielded me only 14L(3.7) in the keg, whoops!

Im starting with 33L(8.7g) of water. Recipe was 18lb grain, 6oz hop in the kettle, 12oz DH.

End of boil was volume 25L. That means I lost 11L (=25L-14L) to kettle trub, yeast trub, and DH trub.

I whirlpool and have an adjustable dip tube in the kettle. Im fermenting in keg with floating dip tube, crash to 50F for 24 hours, transfer to DH keg with floating dip tube, crash to 32 for 24 hours, transfer to serving keg.

How do your volumes compare? What's your total water volume? Do you just target 30L for end of boil volume to compensate for all these hops? Should I change my process to loose less volume?
 
I could use some help with my volumes on these beers. As I increase hopping rates the losses get a little out of hand. But I'm really liking to these hopping rates! Best beers yet.

Last one yielded me only 14L(3.7) in the keg, whoops!

Im starting with 33L(8.7g) of water. Recipe was 18lb grain, 6oz hop in the kettle, 12oz DH.

End of boil was volume 25L. That means I lost 11L (=25L-14L) to kettle trub, yeast trub, and DH trub.

I whirlpool and have an adjustable dip tube in the kettle. Im fermenting in keg with floating dip tube, crash to 50F for 24 hours, transfer to DH keg with floating dip tube, crash to 32 for 24 hours, transfer to serving keg.

How do your volumes compare? What's your total water volume? Do you just target 30L for end of boil volume to compensate for all these hops? Should I change my process to loose less volume?
For a double ipa, I’m about 20lbs of grain and starting with roughly 10 gallons of water. My goal is 6 gallons in the fermenter
 
Citra/Columbus/HBC 586 NEIPA

1670709611107.png


13 lb 2 row
2.75 lb Wheat
0.5 lb Carapils
0.5 lb Crystal 15
0.7 lb Sugar

0.5 oz Warrior 60 min (20 IBU)
2 oz Columbus lupomax whirlpool (170 for 30 min)
2 oz Citra whirlpool (170 for 30 min)
4 oz HBC 586 dry hop
4 oz Citra dry hop

Imperial Juice gen 1

100:200 sulfate:chloride

O.G. = 1.066
F.G. = 1.015
ABV = 6.7%

Impression: Aroma is pineapple, peach, mango and a hint of pine. Flavor is big tropical fruit but with a slight candy sweetness to it - more mango, pineapple and peach with a touch vanilla. Body is full with a nice creaminess. Just barely enough bitterness, the balance is good. The word I want to use to describe how this is different from most of my NEIPA's is smooth. First time using HBC 586 and I'm really happy with it, would definitely buy it again.

I don't love the color, I'd like to get it lighter but I've had such good luck with this base recipe (Trillium Melcher St) so maybe I'll work on getting another recipe to that lighter end of the color spectrum. I got lazy and curious this time and decided to dry hop at room temp for 48 hours and cold crash after instead of soft crashing first. I think the aroma maybe suffered a bit, barely if at all... but it tastes so good that I'm not sure how I feel about the 'soft crash and then dry hop' and whether its worth it for me.
 
Hi all,

I've read all (now) 426 pages of this thread over the past few months and am about to embark on brewing my first all grain NEIPA (did a no-boil extract with no hot side hops which turned out great!)

Would appreciate any thoughts on the below. It's based around Verdant's 'Even Sharks Need Water' clone recipe (Verdant – Even Sharks Need Water – NEIPA - The Malt Miller)

I am using the same grain bill but using slightly different hops just because.

I have only recently returned to brewing after a few year hiatus and have not dialled in my processes or new equipment yet. Volumes have been all over the place with the two all grain beers I've brewed so far.

I am doing BIAB with about 2/3 of the full volume, then using the remainder to mash out at ~75C / 167F

Even Sharks Need Water(ish)
[Brewfather tells me I will end up around 1055 which is not in line with the recipe but works for me. This is based on 75% efficiency but as above I have no idea whether this is accurate or not]
OG: 1.055
FG: 1.014
ABV: 5.4%
~5 gallon finished batch

Grain Bill
3.3kg / 7.3 lbs Crisp Extra Pale Malt (60%)
0.8kg / 1.8 lbs Crisp Golden Promise (14.6%)
0.45kg / 1 lb Weyermans Carapils (8.2%)
0.45kg / 1 lb Flaked Oats (8.2%)
0.25kg / 0.55 lbs Rolled Wheat (4.1%)
0.25kg / 0.55 lbs Wheat Malt (4.1%)

Water
[Calculated using Bru'n Water]
RO water
Ca 112
Mg 24
Na 36
Cl 215
SO4 87
Mash pH = 5.2

Mash Hops
None

Boil Hops
None
[Should I be looking at maybe bringing some hops to flameout to get some more bitterness? Brewfather IBUs are calculated at ~20 with the whirlpool additions at 80C /176F]

Whirlpool
50g / ~2 oz Mosaic @ 80C / 176F 30 min
50g / ~2 oz Citra @80C / 176F 30 min

Yeast
1318 London Ale III (will make a starter)

Dry Hops
50g / ~2 oz Mosaic LUPOMAX
50g / ~2 oz Citra LUPOMAX
100g / ~4 oz BRU-1

Hot-side
No boil, whirlpool only

Cold-side
[Using the fermentation schedule in the recipe]
Plan to pitch at 18C / 64F, let it rise to 19C / 66F then hold for a few days. D rest at 22C / 72F for a few days more (possibly do a VDK test or just leave it for a while)


QUESTIONS
- Any comments regarding the no boil? I have made a no-boil APA which turned out great, anyone anticipate issues?
- Dry hopping - not sure how to add the dry hops. Planning to soft crash to 10C / 50F when I'm at FG to help the yeast to flocculate but I don't have any way of removing the yeast. I will be using a modified fermonster - should I put some gas into it, open the lid and drop in the dry hops? Or closed transfer from the fermonster to a purged keg? If the latter, should the dry hops be in the keg already, or can I get away with putting gas into it, dropping through the lid and purging? I don't really want to have to transfer twice. I am planning to purge at least one keg with CO2 from fermentation.

Thanks!

So I kegged this on Friday and started drinking it the next day after 24 hours at 30 PSI.

Doesn't even really taste 'green' and I will be super excited if it gets any better, as I think it's already the best beer I have made :)

I made a few changes to the above plan:

1. I did reduce the CA (somehow!) in the water profile by playing around with mineral additions. Don't have my notes in front of me but they weren't vastly different from the above.

2. I did bump up the IBUs slightly; added 10g Simcoe at 30 min for ~9 IBU (can't really remember why?!) and whirlpooled with 60g each of Citra and Mosaic for ~26 IBU instead of 50g each. So I ended up around 36 IBU rather than 20 as originally planned. I do think next time I will skip the bittering addition, perhaps the hops do bring quite a lot of perceived bitterness. I do like a very slight bitterness in NEIPAs but this was not quite in line with my tastes.

3. I did do a 60 minute boil, mostly as I miscalculated my water and needed to boil it down so I could get it all in the fermenter and the keg! By some miracle it worked out perfectly... hit all my numbers and I had a full keg with nothing left over.


Picture makes the beer seem a little darker and 'orangey' than it is in reality. Per my recipe, I used the same grain bill as Verdant's 'Even Sharks Need Water' and my beer is exactly the same colour and turbidity (see second pic!)

Just want to say a massive thank you to everyone in this thread, it has been super helpful and I am very proud of this beer as a result!
 

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This past friday I brewed a batch of neipa. Used citra, mosaic, and bru1. I'm trying to decide my dry hop, I have citra, mosaic, bru1, galaxy and nelson that I can combo I was gonna go with a simple combo, like citra and bru1. But thought, well I've got this Nelson, maybe I'll add that in too. Being this is my first batch with bru1 I dont know what to expect from it. I was thinking maybe 2:1:1 bru1:citra:nelson I kinda want to see what bru1 brings to the table so want it to take the lead. Any thoughts?
 
This past friday I brewed a batch of neipa. Used citra, mosaic, and bru1. I'm trying to decide my dry hop, I have citra, mosaic, bru1, galaxy and nelson that I can combo I was gonna go with a simple combo, like citra and bru1. But thought, well I've got this Nelson, maybe I'll add that in too. Being this is my first batch with bru1 I dont know what to expect from it. I was thinking maybe 2:1:1 bru1:citra:nelson I kinda want to see what bru1 brings to the table so want it to take the lead. Any thoughts?
If you want to know what bru1 will bring go simple. Dryhop 2:1 or 3:1 bru1 to Citra. Nelson and Galaxy will dominate it. Citra is the best supporting hop
 
This picture makes me thirsty.

Am I the only one that thinks Riwaka tastes likes chaincase oil? Enigma is great, but I only use it in small %. I used it once as the main DH and holy crap, it was strong. And it sticks around forever.
Riwaka is very citrusy and enigma is dank with a berry like aroma. I made 100% enigma neipa and it was one of my favorite brews.
 
Anybody here ever use Bergamot hops from Great Lakes Hops? I ordered a pound and was going to see what it brought to the table. Was thinking about supplementing in some Citra LupoMax as well. Still trying to decide how big to go in the whirlpool and dry hop. This will be for a 2 gallon batch.
 
Has anyone tried the Fiden’s Jasper clone?


1.075 OG
1.015 FG
5 gallons

11.25 lb Rahr pale
2.2 lb flaked oats
12 oz golden promise
0.35 oz Citra at 60
6.2 oz Citra at WP (175F 20 mins)
8 oz Citra DH
Mash at 155
Ferment at 68


I’m thinking of modifying the recipe a bit and scale to 6.75 gal, and make it a little smaller abv. What do you guys think?
1.066 OG
1.013 FG
54 IBU

8.5 lbs flaked oats
8 lb rahr 2 row
1 lb golden promise
100% RO
11 g CaCl (split between mash and boil)
4.5 g gypsum
7.4 g epsom salt
0.35 oz Citra lupomax at 60
7 oz Citra lupomax at WP 175 F, 20 min
A24 dry hop at 68 F
DH1: 5 oz Citra after dropping yeast at 55 F, rouse with co2
DH2: 4 oz Citra lupomax at 50 F, rouse with co2
 
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Has anyone tried the Fiden’s Jasper clone?


1.075 OG
1.015 FG
5 gallons

11.25 lb Rahr pale
2.2 lb flaked oats
12 oz golden promise
0.35 oz Citra at 60
6.2 oz Citra at WP (175F 20 mins)
8 oz Citra DH
Mash at 155
Ferment at 68


I’m thinking of modifying the recipe a bit and scale to 6.75 gal, and make it a little smaller abv. What do you guys think?
1.066 OG
1.013 FG
54 IBU

8.5 lbs flaked oats
8 lb rahr 2 row
1 lb golden promise
100% RO
11 g CaCl (split between mash and boil)
4.5 g gypsum
7.4 g epsom salt
0.35 oz Citra lupomax at 60
7 oz Citra lupomax at WP 175 F, 20 min
A24 dry hop at 68 F
DH1: 5 oz Citra after dropping yeast at 55 F, rouse with co2
DH2: 4 oz Citra lupomax at 50 F, rouse with co2
Yeah sounds great. I like your changes, fits my tastes. My thoughts: I’ve done all cryo beers that I thought lacked structure and hop flavor from having some t90. So I’d mix in some t90 to your all lupomax. Also, if you feel pretty good about your co2 rouse getting good extraction then I would put all the dry hops in at once. Rousing a few times get the extraction out (I think) better than spread out DH dosing. Have you used 50% flaked oats before? I have not so can’t comment. But I’ve used 40 or so percent malted oats before and that worked quite well.
 
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Has anyone tried the Fiden’s Jasper clone?


1.075 OG
1.015 FG
5 gallons

11.25 lb Rahr pale
2.2 lb flaked oats
12 oz golden promise
0.35 oz Citra at 60
6.2 oz Citra at WP (175F 20 mins)
8 oz Citra DH
Mash at 155
Ferment at 68


I’m thinking of modifying the recipe a bit and scale to 6.75 gal, and make it a little smaller abv. What do you guys think?
1.066 OG
1.013 FG
54 IBU

8.5 lbs flaked oats
8 lb rahr 2 row
1 lb golden promise
100% RO
11 g CaCl (split between mash and boil)
4.5 g gypsum
7.4 g epsom salt
0.35 oz Citra lupomax at 60
7 oz Citra lupomax at WP 175 F, 20 min
A24 dry hop at 68 F
DH1: 5 oz Citra after dropping yeast at 55 F, rouse with co2
DH2: 4 oz Citra lupomax at 50 F, rouse with co2
I personally would keep the Oat to 30-35% and switch it from flaked to malted
 
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Yeah sounds phenomenal. I like all your changes, fits my tastes. My thoughts. I’ve done all cryo beers that I thought lacked structure and hop flavor from having some t90. So I’d mix in some t90 to your all lupomax. Also, if you feel pretty good about your co2 rouse getting good extraction then I would put all the dry hops in at once. Rousing a few times get the extraction out (I think) better than spread out DH dosing. Have you used 50% flaked oats before? I have not so can’t comment. But I’ve used 40 or so percent malted oats before and that worked quite well.
Good points - I will switch to some regular Citra in the hot side. I like to double dry hop solely for the purpose of layering the dry hop flavor at different temps. 55 F gives more fruitiness in my experience and around 50 F starts to pull more dank flavor. When the beer warms up the aroma is really complex and quite nice.

I’ve used 45-50% flaked with good results and just take an efficiency hit
 
Why is that? I’ve used both but flaked typically gives a lighter color. Also why not higher % oats?
Flaked oats are much higher in manganese(malting/germination uses most of it up) which is highly susceptible to oxidizing. So by increasing the percentage you increase the risk.

Additionally, since flaked oats are unmalted, their protein chains are unaltered and longer which gives them more molecular weight. Greater molecular weight causes more clearing, making for unstable haze and causes the deteriorating effect on the mouthfeel.

Besides almost certainly having a miserable time draining the mash and sparge, the last point of the deteriorating mouthfeel occurs regardless of malted/flaked above 40%. It’s a case of more does not correlate with its better. Also, I’ve experienced a drop in 5-7% efficiency when going that high with oats. It will also taste “oaty”

It’s your beer, so obviously do what you’d like, but I am currently settled on;
70% 2row
30% Malted oats

Or

70% 2row
20% spelt
10% malted oats.

And my beers are very similar to Fiden’s. Idk if your part of the Fiden’s: Enthusiast FB group but I’m currently able to trade my Homebrew 1 : 1 on there for fiden’s
 
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Solid. I’ve heard of the manganese issue but haven’t experienced it in practice.

I think I’ll change my recipe around and see how it goes.

What is your dry hop process/temps?
 
Flaked oats are much higher in manganese(malting/germination uses most of it up) which is highly susceptible to oxidizing. So by increasing the percentage you increase the risk.

Additionally, since flaked oats are unmalted, their protein chains are unaltered and longer which gives them more molecular weight. Greater molecular weight causes more clearing, making for unstable haze and causes the deteriorating effect on the mouthfeel.

Besides almost certainly having a miserable time draining the mash and sparge, the last point of the deteriorating mouthfeel occurs regardless of malted/flaked above 40%. It’s a case of more does not correlate with its better. Also, I’ve experienced a drop in 5-7% efficiency when going that high with oats. It will also taste “oaty”

It’s your beer, so obviously do what you’d like, but I am currently settled on;
70% 2row
30% Malted oats

Or

70% 2row
20% spelt
10% malted oats.

And my beers are very similar to Fiden’s. Idk if your part of the Fiden’s: Enthusiast FB group but I’m currently able to trade my Homebrew 1 : 1 on there for fiden’s
This and more.

Once you go malted oats, you'll never go back. My only complaint is they don't mill that great since the grain is long and narrow relative to wheat and 2-row. I don't use a tight mill gap so instead of milling I just give them a few pulses in the Vitamix. Works well.
 
This and more.

Once you go malted oats, you'll never go back. My only complaint is they don't mill that great since the grain is long and narrow relative to wheat and 2-row. I don't use a tight mill gap so instead of milling I just give them a few pulses in the Vitamix. Works well.
I had luck mixing the malted oats the best I can with the base grain and then double milling.
 
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