Non-floculating yeast...rack????

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stavale8099

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Hi all,

I'm brewing a 5 gallon batch of Scaldis Noel and am using wyeast strain 1388. It fermented down to 1.02 in about 2.5 weeks (took some shaking along the way) at room temp (~60 degrees) before racking it to my carboy. The yeast was clearly not floculating well (I have heard that it doesn't) and the trub was minimal especially for an OG of 1.11. I didn't want it to ferment any more so I cold crashed it get the yeast to stop fermenting and maybe get it to floculate a bit, which it did...a bit...I kept it in the fridge for about 2 weeks or so before I pulled it back out. The yeast obviously immediately woke up and I can see that it is doing the best it can to ferment what little sugar is left in the batch.
I have two questions - do I rack it again through some sanitized cheese cloth to get the yeast out, just let it ride, or what? I can rack it all day long but all this yeast is just going to go with it.
Also, the recipe for this beer calls for 6 months of conditioning...what is the reason for this? It tastes pretty good now! I think the final ABV is about 10.5.

Thanks
Eric
 
You can rack it all day and strain it through cloth all you want and the yeast will remain. Your only options for stopping yeast activity would be to filter using a proper filtration system or pasteurize. However, once you do that you can no longer bottle condition, so kegging would be your only option to carb it. Bottling before the yeast is done could result in the bottles exploding, you really should not cold crash until after the fermentation is completely finished. As far as the extended aging, I'm sure it tastes great right now but after months in the bottle (or keg) it will taste even better. The strong flavors produced by a high gravity beer tend to mellow over time and the beer will come into a better balance after conditioning. Same thinking as to why you age red wine and don't drink it fresh.
 
I think the final ABV is about 10.5.
You're already at 11.8% ABV with over 80% attenuation. That's pretty good for that yeast. If it's still fermenting, I'd be worried about something wild working in there. What was the recipe and mash tempature?
 
Do you have the means to cool the fermenter down to below 40*F? If so, cold crash this for 5-7 days in the mid-30's. That should help drop a bunch of the suspended yeast out.
 
Well how do you get it to stay at the target gravity for beers that you want a little sweeter?! There are still some sugars in there with my target gravity at 20 points and there was a lot of yeasties in there to ferment that much sugar...and given that its a non-floculant yeast there are still a few guys in there munching. So, per BlackGoats suggestion I will just have cloudy beer unless I have a filtration system or pasteurize it. That's fine, as long as that's ok for the style. Doesn't appear to effect the taste so far...just worried about it producing off flavors down the road.
1-step partial mash at about 155 degrees or so if I remember correctly. I'll dig up the recipe. Not too worried about anything wild - we do it about as sanitized as you can get and i dont detect anything odd growing in there.
Thanks!
 
If you want it to finish sweeter you can either use lactose to provide unfermentable sugars or mash higher, which will give you a higher finishing gravity. You will always have yeast in your beer if you bottle condition, no matter what procedures you use. If you want super clear beer, its better to choose a more flocculation strain.
 
If you want it to finish sweeter you can either use lactose to provide unfermentable sugars or mash higher, which will give you a higher finishing gravity. You will always have yeast in your beer if you bottle condition, no matter what procedures you use. If you want super clear beer, its better to choose a more flocculation strain.

What he said plus you can also use xylitol to back sweeten.

But typically it's yeast selection and mash temps and crystal malts that influence "sweetness" and body. Oh and of course IBU's.

If you force a yeast to stop fermenting you may end up with aldehyde (appleish taste) due to incomplete fermentation.
 
Hi all,

I'm brewing a 5 gallon batch of Scaldis Noel and am using wyeast strain 1388. It fermented down to 1.02 in about 2.5 weeks (took some shaking along the way) at room temp (~60 degrees) before racking it to my carboy. The yeast was clearly not floculating well (I have heard that it doesn't) and the trub was minimal especially for an OG of 1.11. I didn't want it to ferment any more so I cold crashed it get the yeast to stop fermenting and maybe get it to floculate a bit, which it did...a bit...I kept it in the fridge for about 2 weeks or so before I pulled it back out. The yeast obviously immediately woke up and I can see that it is doing the best it can to ferment what little sugar is left in the batch.
I have two questions - do I rack it again through some sanitized cheese cloth to get the yeast out, just let it ride, or what? I can rack it all day long but all this yeast is just going to go with it.
Also, the recipe for this beer calls for 6 months of conditioning...what is the reason for this? It tastes pretty good now! I think the final ABV is about 10.5.

Thanks
Eric

Your attempt to prematurely stop fermentation will not lead to positive results. Yeast floculation is complex, but one thing that inhibits flocculation is sugars left in the beer. If the beer is not fully fermented, the yeast will want to keep eating.

Second, this is a frustrating strain to work with because it is so dusty and resistant to dropping out. If you can chill it to fridge temps and keep it at fridge temps, get some isinglass to clear the yeast.

But only after it is fully fermented.
 
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